Best overall performer

[Jeff10236]

So, I have come to think that all brush materials are a series of compromises. One may be super soft, but it doesn't hold much lather. Another is super soft and holds lather, but it is a lather hog that won't let go. Another is a great overall performer, except it is way too scratchy. So, what material or even specific brush would you suggest.

Here is what I have:

• I started with two cheap pure badger brushes (a Miusco and a Perfecto). They look like they are the same brushes, but the Perfecto is definitely softer and it lathers better. Whether they are actually different, or whether they are made in the same Chinese factory with different labels slapped on them and it is just the brush to brush variability in cheap brushes that I'm seeing I don't know. Anyway, the better of the two, makes a good lather, it releases well, and has good backbone. It would be a great overall performer but it is too scratchy (I won't say scritchy here since it isn't really the slight scratchiness you might want, it is too much). The lesser of the two, the Miusco is lower on the good points, and even more scratchy.
• I have a Semogue 820. It is much softer than the two pure badger brushes, and has been soft since before it was broken in (despite the boar hair reputation). It is good for 3-4 passes worth of lather, but it holds lather and water so I have to use a lot of soap (it is also a fairly large brush). Backbone is good. I'd say right now it is my best overall brush but it isn't quite perfect.
• Whipped Dog 22mm Silvertip set 10mm further into the handle. I probably should have gone 5mm instead of 10, but the small size is growing on me. It is super soft. Being set 10mm back, it does have good backbone. This thing is a lather hog though and I really can only get about 1 1/2 lathers out of it if I face lather, and I need to do 2 passes on the soap (soap up, lather, ring the lather out and load it again) to get enough soap loaded for a 3 pass and touch up/clean up shave. It does dry very fast, and it is small, so it may sometimes see duty as a travel brush (and the WD Silvertip really isn't expensive despite the material).
  
• RazoRock Big Bruce synthetic. This is my 2nd favorite after my Semogue, and it may actually get more use. It is huge (26mm, not sure the loft but there is a lot of brush there). However, being a synthetic, it doesn't hold water or lather within the bristles of the brush. So, I really only get 2 good passes worth of lather, and one fairly thin one, unless I use a lot of soap (not as bad as the Silvertip though). Between the softness of the brush and the size, it doesn't have the best backbone and works best with creams and softer soaps (though I do use it with all of my soaps). It is very soft, and it dries incredibly fast, and I like it quite a bit, just wish it held a little more.

So, I'm trying to find brushes with different strengths/weaknesses depending upon my mood, and that will be very good overall performers. Some thoughts and questions...

• Badger seems to be a good overall performer, if I find one that isn't a lather hog and is soft. My pure badger brushes would be great if they weren't so scratchy. Would a mid-grade badger like a "super" or "mountain" be the way to go? How about a pure badger from a better company like Vulfix or even Parker?
• I really like my Semogue and it is a great overall performer. Maybe I'm a boar guy and should try some other boars? I'm thinking the Semogue 610, 620 or one of a few Omegas. Also, maybe the Whipped Dog boar.
• Maybe I should go with a smaller synthetic. If I need a 2nd lather to finish up, what's the big deal?
• Try a 2nd Silvertip that is a bit bigger or not set as far into the handle. Maybe another WD, or maybe a Parker (I don't want to go too expensive). Like the synth, is it really that big a deal if I end up needing a 2nd lather to finish sometimes?
• Should I try something different? Maybe a horse hair, a badger/boar mix, or a badger/horse mix?

So, what do you find the best combination of characteristics? What do you look for?

 

[BaylorGator]

Interested in the replies here, as I have the same questions.

 

[babweiner]

You have far more knowledge than myself on the subject, I didn't even know horse was an option. I just figured any inadequacies in the lather were due to my lack of experience and ability, I never thought of blaming the brush but then again, I only have two brushes. I'm convinced they're both inferior, I must buy another, for posterity sake. I will watch this thread for recommendations. Hopefully someone chimes in with something more to say than "I can't wait to see what people say".

~J. Babcock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mdwolfie86]

If you want a great knot with nice backbone, soft and more scrub than a silvertip I suggest you go for a two band badger. Now, how the brush reacts to soap and water will also depend on the loft. Personally I like to stay at either 48mm or 50mm of loft on my brushes because I face lather and it is a happy medium. Another thing is my daily work horses are mostly Boar brushes I love me my 2 band badgers but the scrub of the Boar is fantastic especially a Semogue or an Omega. If you want to try something new, I would say go for the two band and if you face scrub try having it set at 48mm I think you will like it. I've had many brushes over time and finally settled on the 2 bands and Boars but I keep one synthetic the AMACK game changer as it is the only synthetic I like. It's always nice to have a variety too.

 

[BigJ]

Excellent question! For me, badger, especially Simpsons best is the sweet spot! My current favorite brushes are my Duke 2, Chubby 1, Classic 2 and 57 (subject to change, of course)!

 

[Jeff10236]

If you want a great knot with nice backbone, soft and more scrub than a silvertip I suggest you go for a two band badger. Now, how the brush reacts to soap and water will also depend on the loft. Personally I like to stay at either 48mm or 50mm of loft on my brushes because I face lather and it is a happy medium. Another thing is my daily work horses are mostly Boar brushes I love me my 2 band badgers but the scrub of the Boar is fantastic especially a Semogue or an Omega. If you want to try something new, I would say go for the two band and if you face scrub try having it set at 48mm I think you will like it. I've had many brushes over time and finally settled on the 2 bands and Boars but I keep one synthetic the AMACK game changer as it is the only synthetic I like. It's always nice to have a variety too.

I sometimes face later, sometimes bowl lather, and often do a hybrid. I'm trying to use more water initially and do the full lather in the bowl more often. However, I often intentionally err on the side of a dry lather in the bowl, then I adjust and add water while I finish the lather on my face. I find that does two things. It allows me to more consistently get the lather just right, and it forces me to spend more time applying the lather than if I just bowl lathered so I can really work it into my stubble. That is one of the things I don't like about the Silvertip I bought, being a smallish knot (22mm) and recessed an extra 10mm, it isn't big enough to hold enough lather for a 3 pass shave if I face lather.

I definitely want to try a mid-level badger to see what I think. Right now, with what I've tried so far, I am thinking I may be a boar guy, but the mid-level badgers may be what I'm looking for. I'm also curious how a pure badger from a better company would fare since I'm on a budget (I'm a teacher).

 

[Jeff10236]

Excellent question! For me, badger, especially Simpsons best is the sweet spot! My current favorite brushes are my Duke 2, Chubby 1, Classic 2 and 57 (subject to change, of course)!

I definitely want to try a Simpsons, but it will probably have to wait until my initial BAD/RAD/SAD (soaps)/CAD (creams)/ASAD (aftershaves), etc is done and I've waited a while to buy anything. Being on a teacher's budget means I have to make some compromises. Though, some of their lower end offerings are similar in price to other companies' mid to higher level offerings. How would a Simpsons pure badger compare in softness to a mid level offering from a mid level company?

 

[muzichead]

Whipped Dog 22mm Silvertip set 10mm further into the handle. I probably should have gone 5mm instead of 10, but the small size is growing on me. It is super soft. Being set 10mm back, it does have good backbone. This thing is a lather hog though and I really can only get about 1 1/2 lathers out of it if I face lather, and I need to do 2 passes on the soap (soap up, lather, ring the lather out and load it again) to get enough soap loaded for a 3 pass and touch up/clean up shave. It does dry very fast, and it is small, so it may sometimes see duty as a travel brush (and the WD Silvertip really isn't expensive despite the material).

I have a Butterscotch 24 Silvertip from Larry that is set the same as yours and absolutely love it. My suggestion for your brush would be to bowl lather it. Everytime I use mine I have enough lather in my brush to last for a 5+ pass shave easily... I'd have to say its my favorite brush that I use because of its ease to lather and the way it feels on my face and it was pretty much like that out of the package which still baffles me... I'm contemplating which knot to go into an Amber tall handle that Larry sells. I will probably go with either a High Mountain White set the same or another Silvertip but only 5mm deeper to get an idea of what that would be like. It can always be re-set if I don't like it...

 

[Marcos1]

My best all around performer right now is my Shavemac 2 band silvertip. Soft tips, good flow through, not over stuffed or too much backbone, and excellent flow through. Now I have 3 band silvertip brushes as well as 2 band silvertip brushes that excel in their own regards in terms of softness or backbone etc in those respective categories but if I have to pick a hair type that was a hybrid of all those things in one I find the Shavemac 2 band silvertip brushes to have that. On my brushes I can even see that the hair shafts are not as stout as other 2 bands I have owned. It's basically a perfect hybrid of 2/3 band brush for me. I messed around with tinkering with 3 band configurations as well as trying D01 3 band but those attempts left something to be desired and were still lacking. My first attempts at finding a 2 banded were met with overly backbony brushes that were too dense and hogged all the lather without splaying properly. My Paladin 2 band is right behind my Shavemac 2 band but it acts more like a 2 band than the Shavemac does.

 

[JimL911]

Elite Razor's Manchurian White. Soft tips, zero scritch. I face lather and prefer it over my Thater, Duke and Shavemac D0-1 2 and 3 band. The 24mm easily holds enough for a 3 pass shave and touch up. Worth the money.

 

[Jeff10236]

Correction to my original post: I have the Semogue 830, not the 820.

My suggestion for your brush would be to bowl lather it.

That's what I typically do with that brush. I need to load it, lather, wring out the lather, and load it again to get enough lather for 3 passes plus touch up. I probably do have enough lather on one load to do 3 passes, but the brush holds on to a lot of lather. Maybe if I went to the 24mm, or only had the extra 5mm instead of 10mm inset I might be able to get more out of it.

My best all around performer right now is my Shavemac 2 band silvertip.

I'll be sure to check them out

Elite Razor's Manchurian White.

It looks nice, and they have some really cool looking handles, but at $60 for just the knot, and $72-140 for a complete brush, it is a bit out of my comfort zone for now. Maybe in a few months to a year when I'm picking up and trying less new gear and when I consider the Simpsons brushes I will consider this as well.

 

[Glaze3]

Your price range is going to put you in the Boar or Synthetic camp. As you said that you already like your Semogue, I would go with an SOC. A 2-band Badger would be my suggestion, but it will take you out of your price comfort zone. Other options would be a Simpsons Duke or Commodore in best.

 

[Jeff10236]

Your price range is going to put you in the Boar or Synthetic camp. As you said that you already like your Semogue, I would go with an SOC. A 2-band Badger would be my suggestion, but it will take you out of your price comfort zone.

Not totally. Many mid-line badgers are under $60 or so, the Parker Silvertip is right around $60, and the Whipped Dog is well under my current range. I think I'd be happy up to about $70-75 for the right brush (I don't really like the Elite Razor handle that I can get with the suggested knot for $72, most that I like are in the $90-110 range, some a little more), though I'd prefer to be under $60.

I suppose at $80+ you can probably minimize compromises, and in my price range I may be better off with a $20 boar than a $40-60 badger, but I want to examine options.

 

[Jut]

I definitely want to try a Simpsons, but it will probably have to wait until my initial BAD/RAD/SAD (soaps)/CAD (creams)/ASAD (aftershaves), etc is done and I've waited a while to buy anything. Being on a teacher's budget means I have to make some compromises. Though, some of their lower end offerings are similar in price to other companies' mid to higher level offerings. How would a Simpsons pure badger compare in softness to a mid level offering from a mid level company?

no. I owned a Simpson special in pure, and it was a scritchy beast....I hated it, and I usually don't mind a bit of scritch.

 

[Jaidmaster]

I am very happy with the Stirling finest badger.

 

[dfoulk]

So give this a try...

Buy the Elite Manchurian knot and find a cheap resin handle to put it in, or maybe pick up an inexpensive vintage handle from the popular auction site that you like the look of. It's more about the knot at this point though. So, instead of putting it in with the 5 minute epoxy (that most use install the knot) you'll install it with some silicone that you get at the local hardware store and let it dry for 24 hours. It's perfectly usable this way as I have many brushes that I do this with. Worst case if the knot comes out you just reinstall it with some new silicone. If you like where you set the knot then leave it there. If you don't like the loft then pull it and set it again higher or lower based on your preference. Now you have a truly outstanding performing brush for around the sixty dollar mark. You've also learned exactly what loft you like it at and how the different lofts impact the brush. Get a measurement of the loft that you prefer ($14 micrometer at the local harbor freight or find a friend that has one) and put the measurement aside. You can keep this handle if you like it or upgrade it at any time to something nicer. From every review I've read this knot performs a lot like the higher end Shavemac knots at about half the price so it'll be a very noticeable difference for you.

Maybe down the road for your Birthday or another occasion, get yourself on the Wolf Whiskers waiting list or maybe pick up a handle from another high quality manufacturer like Rudy Vey that makes some really nice stuff. Pull the knot and send it to the handle manufacturer to be installed into the new handle at your preferred loft. I think the Wolf Whiskers handles (without a knot) are right around the sixty dollar mark. I don't know what Rudy charges for his work but from what I've seen it's worth it. They'll glue the knot into your handle for you with epoxy and it's permanent at this point. This way you have your favorite knot, at your favorite loft in a custom brush designed by you paid for in two installments with some time in between.

 

[BaylorGator]

So give this a try...

Buy the Elite Manchurian knot and find a cheap resin handle to put it in, or maybe pick up an inexpensive vintage handle from the popular auction site that you like the look of. It's more about the knot at this point though. So, instead of putting it in with the 5 minute epoxy (that most use install the knot) you'll install it with some silicone that you get at the local hardware store and let it dry for 24 hours. It's perfectly usable this way as I have many brushes that I do this with. Worst case if the knot comes out you just reinstall it with some new silicone. If you like where you set the knot then leave it there. If you don't like the loft then pull it and set it again higher or lower based on your preference. Now you have a truly outstanding performing brush for around the sixty dollar mark. You've also learned exactly what loft you like it at and how the different lofts impact the brush. Get a measurement of the loft that you prefer ($14 micrometer at the local harbor freight or find a friend that has one) and put the measurement aside. You can keep this handle if you like it or upgrade it at any time to something nicer.

I like this idea. I think I will try this myself. Thanks dfoulk!

 

[emwolf]

Badger for me is the gold standard for shaving, particularly the higher end knot. The plissoft synthetics have moved into a close second and they're considerably cheaper. I like horse and boar, but they don't compete with the former.

 

[muzichead]

I started off with Boar years ago and went with it again when I got into traditional wet shaving last year, but never really cared for the feel of it and to be honest, never really knew about all the different choices we had until I joined B&B. Curse you all on this forum!! I now prefer the Badger with my Synths coming in right behind. That last Boar I bought, I repurposed the handle and it now sports a Tuxedo Synthetic knot from APShaveCo.. It's at least getting used now...

 

[Jarick]

Two band badger is the best overall for me. It has good backbone with soft tips, great lather flow, and is very resilient to shedding. I've had a number of silvertips that were soft but a little floppy. I've had others that were stuffed with good density but hogged lather. And I've had several that just shed like dogs. I have never had a two band badger that shed.

TGN Finest knots are a good budget knot, but the Shavemac 2-band silvertips are really the cream of the crop. I've had probably close to 100 brushes over the last few years and that's my conclusion anyway.