Has anyone having trouble getting a shave-able edge off a coti when the razors are american made. I have two american made razors, a Torrey, and Diamond, both made in Massachusetts. It has been really difficult to set the bevel and move forth from there. My kropp has been giving me less issues with obtaining an edge. So are german made razors easier to sharpen than american? Your thoughts.
American Steel vs Coticule
- Thread starter bad-bryce
- Start date
Some blades can be tougher than others to hone, but you can certainly hone an American razor on a coticule.
Done quite a few American made razors on the coticule.
Torrey razors are hard steel. They'll take a bit longer on any hone. I have honed a few different American made straights on coticule without a problem.
American Steel and Swedish Steel are the Hardest on average that I have found. It takes a good fast stone to work them with ease.
my Torrey took a wicked edge off the coticule !!! its a 5/8 wedge , but it was already good through 8k before i took it to the coticule .. i dulled it , reset bevel with one layer of tape on the coticule and was off to the races from there ( prob got lucky ) .. ive been lucky as of late but today ive been fighting with a Sheffield razor ..lol
they will hone.
- Thread starter
- #8
ahh godo to know. Seeing my Coti, is a slow in general, maybe it would be a good idea for me to get a combo hone to get to the 8k level then finish of from there with my coti.
You can always set a bevel on a dmt1200 and then dilucot.
Either a faster a coticule that is good for bevel setting which isn't always so good a finisher or a dedicated bevel setter like a Chosera 1K or a King 1K for $25. Once you have a good bevel the rest is easy.
I had some slight difficulty honing a Torrey on my coticule, but It ended up being because the bevel needed to be reset. I agree that Torrey's seem to have hard steel, so it might just take a little extra effort to set the bevel...
- Thread starter
- #12
I had done the setting a bevel on my 1200 dmt with my diamond razor and then working it on my coti and it seemed I was working on it forever. the ones who have done this before, did the scratches from 1200dmt go away with your coti? on my diamond it did not and I do not want to end up in the same boat with my Torrey.
I personally would get a harder faster coticule. The slurry should remove all the scratches from the 1200 by the time you start finishing.
Not everyone agrees, but deep scratches from a low grit hone can sometimes leave microchips if not honed all the way out as you progress up the stones.
- Thread starter
- #15
that's why I think getting a 4/8k stone would help bridge the gap between the scratches and then finish on my coti.
I wish you could send me the razor and try using a stone instead of a DMT as a bevel setter and see what results you get then. I just am not a fan of DMT's and razors. As far as the Norton I have nothing against them. I tried one for a little while like you want to, and I only used it a few times and never picked it up again.
- Thread starter
- #17
Scott you think getting a 1k bevel setter would fix this issue and then the rest with the coti
I can't be positive but I believe so. Its been my experience that DMT's are just too fast and aggressive for razors. They are good for removing big chips(and breadknifing) but thats all I would use one for on a razor. Get a King 1K,Naniwa SS 1K, or a Chosera 1K depending on your budget.
I use a DMT 1200 for heavy lifting. For the ordinary bevel set, I've had huge success with a big soft Arkie. Going from the Arkie to slurry on a coti seems to work out very nicely for me.
Instead of a norton a 4k/8k I'd follow Scott's advice and get a dedicated bevel setter.
