What's new

Ak47

Been debating about picking one up. They've come down in price quite a bit and ammo is at least somewhat affordable, at least for the more corrosive stuff.
Any advice would be helpful. I'm most likely going to go for a cheaper one (under $500).
The gun will most likely be used for a SHTF/Zombies are coming type situation, target practice, and possibly deer hunting. I've looked and it appears that in MN it's legal to hunt with. I know that SKS are legal as well as clips over 5 rounds. It'll most likely be used as a drive gun as it's speed and amount of rounds would be an advantage in fast brush shooting. Though it'd be tough to beat the Model 94's for a good brush gun.

I really like this one at Classic Arms Inc.
proxy.php


$349 seems pretty reasonable IMO, anyone had any experience with Classic Arms?
 
I have an older production Maadi Mfg AkM that I got 17 years ago.

Also keep it as a SHTF weapon. I keep it and a WWII era k98k and lots of ammo in reserve :thumbup1:
Wp
 
Does it include the grenade launcher attachment? Is it legal in MN with the attachment as well?

(NOTE: Most of my knowledge of AKs comes from Wikipedia and playing way too much Modern Warfare).
 
Pardon the pun, but pull the trigger on it. Wish I could pick one up like that , and don't sweat the corrosive ammo. I'm sure the intended 3rd world rebel users don't and their rifles seem to keep on working in spite of it. Besides there's plenty of advice on the internet detailing how to clean after shooting corrosive ammo.
 
I have a AK in my collection. They are reliable. Don't shoot it much though. I find myself grabbing the Colt M4 Carbine .22 LR instead. Ammo much cheaper. I agree with you on the Model 94, can't beat it.
As far as Classic Arms, Inc. goes, I have never dealt with them. Since they are close by, I think I will go check them out.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
:a41:
 
I have a AK in my collection. They are reliable. Don't shoot it much though. I find myself grabbing the Colt M4 Carbine .22 LR instead. Ammo much cheaper. I agree with you on the Model 94, can't beat it.
As far as Classic Arms, Inc. goes, I have never dealt with them. Since they are close by, I think I will go check them out.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
:a41:

Yea my Winchesters are currently my SHTF guns, I find myself a little worried if the bad guys are packing anything like a AR15 type or AK, that I'd be a little short on the ammo department. Apparently from what I've been reading the 30/30 and the AK ammo have a fairly similar range and shooting profile, both are fairly accurate out to about 150-200 yds or so. Anything after that is just a hail mary shot.

I could see that that colt of your's would be fun especially when you can pick up a few 100 rds of .22 for what $20?
 
If I could own a gun, it would be an AK47, as I would only want one for Zombies/ Aliens/ commies. I've fired a few and the reliability is a huge factor. I would like to see the face of the person whom reviews permits when I tell him that I want the weapon "For the coming zombie apocalypse" with a totally straight face, then get hauled off to the looney bin.
 
If I could own a gun it'd be a finn M25. That and a 1911a and I'll rule the zombie apocalypse. I'll keep a couple chumps with Ak's around to cover me while I reload.

;)


Don't worry about corrosive ammo. Just clean the gun after you use it with an ammonia-containing cleanser (windex works).
 
Looks like a great price for a nice Romanian, I believe I saw one of these at Bill's up in Circle Pines a couple weeks ago and it was one of the better examples I've seen recently. I purchased a CETME from Classic Arms years ago and had no issues, I used Muzzleloaders, Etc.. down in Bloomington for the transfer and it was $25, though it's been many years so I'm not sure they still offer the service.

As a hunting rifle, these look like great drive/push guns on par with a 30/30 in terms of ballistics. I don't think you are restricted to 5 round magazines in MN (I hunt SW in shotgun territory so I don't pay attention to rifle regs) but you might stick with a 10 rounder to keep down the weight and throw on a holo/reticle red-dot sight to improve your acquisition speed. Plenty of options that leave the iron sights usable should you have a dead battery or other failure in the field.

Glad to hear there are other mobile hunters in the northerly parts of the state, for some reason almost everyone I know who hunts up north thinks walking half a mile to your tree stand and sitting for 10 hours with a portable heater and full snack bar is how it's done. As my father in law reminds me if I dare ***** about sore feet or legs after a day, it's called "hunting" not "sitting." :)
 
Glad to hear there are other mobile hunters in the northerly parts of the state, for some reason almost everyone I know who hunts up north thinks walking half a mile to your tree stand and sitting for 10 hours with a portable heater and full snack bar is how it's done. As my father in law reminds me if I dare ***** about sore feet or legs after a day, it's called "hunting" not "sitting." :)

lol, some of the s#$% i've had to walk through over the years makes me want to sit in my stand for 10 hours lol. Though I'm amazed at how big of a buck can fit into the tightest stand of brush :blink:

I'd think seriously about getting a red dot but do worry about the battery issue, the dang things seem to go bad at the darndest times, so I think I'll look at the various iron sight options too.
Thanks for the advice guys!
 
I'm avoiding an AK since I don't want to buy yet another caliber. I heard they're reliable, though not hugely accurate.

I'm happy with my Colt AR:

proxy.php
 
I have a Romanian AK, it's been a great weapon. It goes bang when I pull the trigger and it's OK with accuracy. When you get done shooting it, wash it with Ivory dish washing liquid and wear nitrile gloves. If you're a younger fella and you want kids, you DO NOT want lead and mercury poisoning. :ohmy:
 
...don't sweat the corrosive ammo.

Uh... :blink::blink::blink:

Corrosive ammo can potentially render the weapon non-functional, but this depends upon climate.

An explanation of corrosive ammo:
Corrosive ammo, these days, is almost always military surplus ammunition. American surplus ammo is all non corrosive after sometime in the 1960s or 1970s depending on caliber. Only one portion of the ammunition is corrosive, and that's the primer. These primers will leave a corrosive salt residue on all parts of the gun that they touch, including bayonets or other metallic objects exposed to the muzzle blast. These salts suck up moisture like the proverbial sponge, and eat deep pits into the metal if they aren't removed promptly.

Cleaning after shooting with corrosive ammo:
I want to be absoloutely clear about something: Hoppes #9 Nitro Powder Solvent WILL NOT remove corrosive salts from your rifle. Hoppes was reformulated some time in the 1960's or earlier to remove the toxic compounds that were needed for the (Then replaced, in America) corrosive ammo. USGI rifle bore cleaner may or may not remove corrosive salts, depending on when it was made and the exact formula, but I'm not an expert on these. I'm going to give you the method that I KNOW works for sure. I KNOW that salts are water soluble, but I don't know about the other chemical options.

You will need:
A coffee cup full of hot water
A pea-sized drop of Dawn liquid dish soap
Acetone (Get it at your hardware store, do not store in plastic containers)
A cleaning kit appropriate for your rifle/pistol

After firing corrosive ammo, try to clean your rifle within 12-24 hours. Immediately after shooting, if possible, is best.

Step 1: Field strip your rifle. Using some acetone, wipe off the bolt face and the firing pin tip. On an automatic rifle, wipe off the gas piston as well. Run an acetone soaked patch down the bore to remove any oils that may still be inside. On automatic rifles, also swab out the gas tube. Acetone will dissolve many plastics, but none of my plastic cleaning kit tips are affected.

Step 2: Run about a dozen patches, soaked in hot soapy water, down the barrel. Push them in the same direction each time (Preferably from the breech or back end), and remove them from the rod before pulling it back out. Clean the bolt face, firing pin tip, and gas tube and piston (If you have them) with patches soaked in the soap solution.

Step 3: Using the bore brush, scrub the barrel and gas tube with a few passes, then use more wet patches to remove the loosened dirt. Continue this just like your normally would until you're satisfied that the rifle is clean. The water will dissolve and remove the corrosive salts.

Step 4: Once you're satisfied that the rifle is clean, use dry patches on the barrel, gas tube, and other parts to remove as much of the water as possible. After you've completed this, you can take a break for 5 minutes or so.

Step 5: Use a bit of acetone on a patch and wipe down all areas exposed to water, and run another patch soaked in acetone down the bore. This helps any residual water evaporate.

Step 6: At this point, your rifle should be clean. Wipe down all the parts with some gun oil. Leave a light coat of oil in the barrel, and a VERY light coat on the gas tube and piston. If the rifle stays in storage for more than two weeks, check up on it and make sure there isn't any corrosion in the bore. If there is, start at step 1 again.


Edited to add the following:

Things don't work or are bad ideas:

Hoppes #9 Nitro Solvent - Doesn't work!
One upon a time, oh, say, back in the 1950's, Hoppes solvent contained Nitrobenzene. Yup, like what drag racers use. This was, supposedly, able to either deactivate or dissolve and remove corrosive salts. Theres only a few problems with this. Its highly toxic and worse yet, it can absorb right through your skin directly into your bloodstream; it's flammable, and it just might cause cancer. Hoppes does not contain this chemical and has not for a long time. Old bottles that do contain nitrobenzene can be used up, but I would still not trust it for corrosive ammo anyway.

USGI Bore Solvent/Rifle Bore Cleaner - Probably won't work!
This is essentially Hoppes in a green bottle. Old formulations may have been effective against corrosive ammo. US formulations probably tried to use nitrobenzene, and I know that some Comm-Bloc equivalents used chromates. Not only have the formulations changed, but again, the formulas that did work are toxic and give you cancer.

Windex/Generic glass cleaner - Works great! But...
Ok, these actually DO work against corrosive salts, mostly because of the water contained in the products. I personally suggest you avoid these unless you have nothing else. Apparently the ammonia can actually attack and corrode the metal in a similar manner to the salts you're trying to remove.
 
Last edited:
Will a weapon like this really work with zombies? I thought they were already dead. Aliens, sure, but zombies?

:lol:
 
Will a weapon like this really work with zombies? I thought they were already dead. Aliens, sure, but zombies?

:lol:

I don't claim to be an expert, but I was always taught it was the placement of a head shot that was important with zombies, not so much the caliber. Besides fire, how else do you kill them?
 
If I could own a gun it'd be a finn M25. That and a 1911a and I'll rule the zombie apocalypse. I'll keep a couple chumps with Ak's around to cover me while I reload.

;)


Don't worry about corrosive ammo. Just clean the gun after you use it with an ammonia-containing cleanser (windex works).

Is that necessary, the SMLE I've used with 1940s ammo, I just boiled out and cleaned as normal, and it was fine.

Also boiled out my shotgun once or twice with no problems...

Tom
 
Top Bottom