I have an English Bridle Leather strop from Bison that I purchased 4 years ago. The leather is unblemished and highly polished/smooth. It is well made and "looks" like a great strop. The problem I have had is that the finish is so polished that it is hard to generate "draw"/friction while stropping. Up until now, 50 to 100 laps has had little effect on any straight razor's edge. It takes a long, long time for the razor to pass the High Hair Test (HHT)... I have been patient with this strop and I have avoided quick fixes like adding pastes to the leather's beautiful finish. Following the posts on "breaking in" a strop, I have introduced the leather to the oils from my palm in the prescribed fashion; this has had little effect on the friction generated while stropping. Recently, I introduced a small amount of Neatsfoot to the leather and it has made a world of difference. The leather is more supple and generates a nice noticeable draw while stropping. I am now able to get a razor to pass the HHT with 25 - 50 laps even with a TI razor. Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Adding a little friction to a new strop with Neatsfoot oil
- Thread starter StuartT
- Start date
Actually I did.. I have a Malewski strop that had really bad nicks so I had to sand it down a bit.
After all the sanding (till 1200) I thought that some neatsfoot oil might be needed. The draw now is a bit heavy but i noticed that the blade is sharper. I thought that draw didn’t make any difference I the alignment. It seems a lot faster. But it might be a plasibo effect?
After all the sanding (till 1200) I thought that some neatsfoot oil might be needed. The draw now is a bit heavy but i noticed that the blade is sharper. I thought that draw didn’t make any difference I the alignment. It seems a lot faster. But it might be a plasibo effect?
Can you share how you applied the Neat's Foot Oil to your strop? Different methods can have vastly different end results. Sounds like it worked well for you and I am sure others may want to try.
I applied about 5 drops in palm and worked both my hands together, then rubbed the strop for about minute applying the oil from both hands.
Though I don’t know if that thing is skin friendly
Sorry for my poor English but I am not native speaker.
Though I don’t know if that thing is skin friendly
Sorry for my poor English but I am not native speaker.
I do similar. I use 6 drops in my palm and really work it in. I don’t do the nap side though.
MSDS shows:
"IF IN EYES: Flush eyes with large amounts of water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. IF ON SKIN: Remove contaminated clothing. Wash skin with soap and water. If irritation develops, get medical attention. Wash clothes before reusing."
So not too harmful if eye contact is just flushing, unless . . .
timwcic
"Look what I found"
Is that MSDS for 100% pure or compound. Neetsfoot coumpound has petro distillates and what ever for fillers. Rather unnatural stuff
Neetsfoot coumpound
https://hazard.com/msds/f2/bdm/bdmzr.html
100% pure Neetsfoot oil
https://s3.amazonaws.com/mws-assets...ts/fiebings pure neatsfoot oil.pdf?1351098149
It's for neets foot oil, not compound.
Compound would vary by manufacturer, depending on what oils were used:
"EYE: Considered no more than minimally irritating to the eyes.
SKIN CONTACT: Mildly irritating to the skin. Acute Dermal LD50 (rabbit) is greater than 3.16 g/kg body weight."
Is an example of one manufacturer's MSDS. But no telling how harmful might be without checking a specific brand.SKIN CONTACT: Mildly irritating to the skin. Acute Dermal LD50 (rabbit) is greater than 3.16 g/kg body weight."
You did fine with that description.
That is exactly what I would suggest as well if someone wants to apply oil. Other methods seem to impart too much oil and can really change the feel, not always for the better.
Thanks for your explanation
- Thread starter
- #10
I used 2 or 3 drops in a session. I applied the oil to the heel of the palm of my hand, spread the scant amount of oil evenly along the length of the strop and then vigorously rubbed the oil into the leather with the palm of the hand. Once you feel friction (heat) building between your hand and the leather, it is ready for stropping. You should notice an incremental increase in the draw.
I have done two sessions so far and the strop now has appreciably more draw.
I use pure Neatsfoot oil and I have had no skin reaction or sensitivity issues.
Hey if it works, it works!
Can't offer much more than that other than to recommend the Dovo yellow strop dressing. It's a small white tube like a miniature tube of toothpaste but it has a yellow band around the end (sticker).
I don't even know if Dovo still makes and sells it but it does the same work but I think it works a tad better than Neatsfoot.
If you can get your hands on it then try it, very little is all that's needed to do the job. A tube should last you years.
Chris
Can't offer much more than that other than to recommend the Dovo yellow strop dressing. It's a small white tube like a miniature tube of toothpaste but it has a yellow band around the end (sticker).
I don't even know if Dovo still makes and sells it but it does the same work but I think it works a tad better than Neatsfoot.
If you can get your hands on it then try it, very little is all that's needed to do the job. A tube should last you years.
Chris
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks Chris!
It's available in the UK; Exec Shaving for one carry it.
I bought the 50ml Dovo strop balm for my new paddle strop, didn't consider the above product. Would they be similar?
Luke
I can't say from personal experience as I've never used it. But other sites say it's the same. If that's true then, yes, they should certainly perform the same.
Chris
Thanks Chris, good to know.
I have abused my strops in the past with great results!
Neetsfoot
I have mixed Tripoli in with the neatsfoot to liven up a flagging strop.
Sanded 1k grit to increase draw
3k to reduce it - that was a shock the first time
Burnished with a warm tarnished silver spoon
Scrubbed and replaced oils and pastes
Strop makers would kill me if they saw what I did...
Neetsfoot
I have mixed Tripoli in with the neatsfoot to liven up a flagging strop.
Sanded 1k grit to increase draw
3k to reduce it - that was a shock the first time
Burnished with a warm tarnished silver spoon
Scrubbed and replaced oils and pastes
Strop makers would kill me if they saw what I did...
Uh Oh ! Actually I am fine with people fooling with my strops if they have some basis and background as to what works for them. I just get so many beginners with their first strops, excited about the whole process that can't wait to add dressings or oils to them. Wait till you have experience and feel your strop needs something then carefully try something.
I once got one of my latigo strops back from a customer after a week or so of ownership. he said it just did not work well for him and seemed too sticky. One rarely asks to return any of my products but I said sure, no problem. I got back a very black and sticky oil soaked strop that had clearly been soaked in something the color of used motor oil or coal tar. Dark chocolate brown rather than the burgundy color it left as. I asked it he did anything to it and was told "no, just used it as you suggested". Still gave him a refund.
Probably best. A bald-faced liar like that would probably start to smear your name.
It's interesting that at one point in history, clean shaven men were looked on with mistrust. How times have changed!
Rather than trying to change the draw on an existing strop, I suggest you trying purchasing another strop that has greater draw, if you can afford to do so. Use the strop with greater draw first and then finish on the fast bridle.
Although any strop improves the edge, I am of the opinion that different strops affect edges differently. Just as some hones are used for setting a bevel, some are used for refining that bevel and some are used for final polishing, I believe a sequence of strops works best. I have seen someone use a Suehiro G20K synthetic stone to go from bevel setting to final polishing, but it is a tedious process to do so. Using more appropriate stones for the bevel setting and intermediate steps and finishing on the 20K is less work. I feel the same way about strops.
I generally start my stropping sequence with 20 laps on a DIY linen strop to make sure the edge is clean. I then go to 20 laps on the fine cotton component of a strop by Griffith Shaving. It is my favorite cotton fabric strop. The cotton seems to do a good job of edge alignment. Then I do 20 laps on a "fuzzy linen" strop from Tony Miller. It seems to be rather abrasive and really gets the edge ready for leather.
I currently have the following leather strops in my collection:
Razor Emporium Latigo leather with fairly heavy draw. It is always the first leather strop in my sequence.
SRD kangaroo leather strop- moderate draw
Griffith Shaving English Cordovan shell- moderate draw
Tony Miller fast bridle cowhide- fast draw
Razor Emporium Horween Russet horsehide- very fast draw
Tony Miller- Notovan horsehide- very fast draw
My first strop was a Parker Latigo that got pretty beat up as I was learning to strop. I then added the Tony Miller fast bridle. Using the two in sequence really improved the edge. I later replaced the Parker Latigo with the one from Razor Emporium.
Although I could use either one of the strops alone, the only one that I believe I would be satisfied using that way would be the shell cordovan. With the moderate draw and enough strokes and the right strop tension, it could produce an edge that is both smooth and keen.
However, I love the edges I get when progressing up through a sequence using a minimum of four different strops with 20 - 25 laps on each. I generally finish on one of the horsehide strops. They really put a polish on the edge when used as the final step. I am not suggesting you need a sequence of four to six leather strops, but I do think having one strop with heavy-moderate draw and one with a fast draw used in sequence will improve your edges.
Each of the strops feels a little different, but that makes stropping fun. Even if I do 200 laps total on fabric and leather, the time passes quickly.
Although any strop improves the edge, I am of the opinion that different strops affect edges differently. Just as some hones are used for setting a bevel, some are used for refining that bevel and some are used for final polishing, I believe a sequence of strops works best. I have seen someone use a Suehiro G20K synthetic stone to go from bevel setting to final polishing, but it is a tedious process to do so. Using more appropriate stones for the bevel setting and intermediate steps and finishing on the 20K is less work. I feel the same way about strops.
I generally start my stropping sequence with 20 laps on a DIY linen strop to make sure the edge is clean. I then go to 20 laps on the fine cotton component of a strop by Griffith Shaving. It is my favorite cotton fabric strop. The cotton seems to do a good job of edge alignment. Then I do 20 laps on a "fuzzy linen" strop from Tony Miller. It seems to be rather abrasive and really gets the edge ready for leather.
I currently have the following leather strops in my collection:
Razor Emporium Latigo leather with fairly heavy draw. It is always the first leather strop in my sequence.
SRD kangaroo leather strop- moderate draw
Griffith Shaving English Cordovan shell- moderate draw
Tony Miller fast bridle cowhide- fast draw
Razor Emporium Horween Russet horsehide- very fast draw
Tony Miller- Notovan horsehide- very fast draw
My first strop was a Parker Latigo that got pretty beat up as I was learning to strop. I then added the Tony Miller fast bridle. Using the two in sequence really improved the edge. I later replaced the Parker Latigo with the one from Razor Emporium.
Although I could use either one of the strops alone, the only one that I believe I would be satisfied using that way would be the shell cordovan. With the moderate draw and enough strokes and the right strop tension, it could produce an edge that is both smooth and keen.
However, I love the edges I get when progressing up through a sequence using a minimum of four different strops with 20 - 25 laps on each. I generally finish on one of the horsehide strops. They really put a polish on the edge when used as the final step. I am not suggesting you need a sequence of four to six leather strops, but I do think having one strop with heavy-moderate draw and one with a fast draw used in sequence will improve your edges.
Each of the strops feels a little different, but that makes stropping fun. Even if I do 200 laps total on fabric and leather, the time passes quickly.
