I fell in love with the design of the Schick Automatics at first sight. All are notable in their own way. The 1930's C series are all square tube design, gold plated, with a beautiful filigree pattern. C-1 Open Comb Guard, C-2 Closed Comb Guard, and C-3 Bar Guard.
In case anyone is new to these I'm posting a couple pics and tips that I learned.
The Case:
First tip is about the lipstick type case. The top part fits very tightly but you should not feel resistance when putting it on. If you do turn the cap 90 degrees and try again. The cap looks like the same dimension all around but it isn't. If it is forced on the folded head will dent the cap from the inside. Very common to see.
Loading Blades:
A tray inside the handle holds up to 20 blades. The back of the tray is marked REAR. There is a blank blade to let you know when it is time to reload. With BLADE stamp facing up, pull out the bottom drawer until the blade tray is visible, then rotate the end of the drawer downward to allow the tray to be removed. Place a stack of new blades on top of the spacer, rotate the end of the drawer flat and push the drawer back into the handle. New blades come with a thin layer of oil to preserve them so stacking as they come out of the dispenser is fine. The injector blades can hold an edge for a week no problem. That means one of these fully loaded can deliver 140 daily shaves before reloading.
Inject/Eject Blade:
To load a new blade and simultaneously eject the old one pull out the top drawer (marked BLADE) and push it back in. If you push the top drawer back in and a blade is not injected: Pull the drawer back out, flex the end of the drawer upward a bit, then push it back in to catch the edge of a new blade and inject it into the head.
Blade Alignment:
Modern blades are a bit thinner than original ones and may load a bit off kilter as shown. Before shaving place the razor blade side up and use your fingernails on the outside corners (not sharp area) as in the pic to seat the blade against the backstop.
Jams:
If the drawer gets stuck in the full out position: The new blade is in contact with the injection slot opening. Use a wooden spoon and give the end of the handle a light rap. The drawer should free up and allow a blade to be injected.
If the drawer goes half way in and jams: Two blades are stuck together. In this case pull the drawer all the way out, gently rap the bottom drawer end of the razor on a wooden surface (won't mar the finish) a couple of times to settle the razor stack, then try to inject again.
In case anyone is new to these I'm posting a couple pics and tips that I learned.
The Case:
First tip is about the lipstick type case. The top part fits very tightly but you should not feel resistance when putting it on. If you do turn the cap 90 degrees and try again. The cap looks like the same dimension all around but it isn't. If it is forced on the folded head will dent the cap from the inside. Very common to see.
Loading Blades:
A tray inside the handle holds up to 20 blades. The back of the tray is marked REAR. There is a blank blade to let you know when it is time to reload. With BLADE stamp facing up, pull out the bottom drawer until the blade tray is visible, then rotate the end of the drawer downward to allow the tray to be removed. Place a stack of new blades on top of the spacer, rotate the end of the drawer flat and push the drawer back into the handle. New blades come with a thin layer of oil to preserve them so stacking as they come out of the dispenser is fine. The injector blades can hold an edge for a week no problem. That means one of these fully loaded can deliver 140 daily shaves before reloading.
Inject/Eject Blade:
To load a new blade and simultaneously eject the old one pull out the top drawer (marked BLADE) and push it back in. If you push the top drawer back in and a blade is not injected: Pull the drawer back out, flex the end of the drawer upward a bit, then push it back in to catch the edge of a new blade and inject it into the head.
Blade Alignment:
Modern blades are a bit thinner than original ones and may load a bit off kilter as shown. Before shaving place the razor blade side up and use your fingernails on the outside corners (not sharp area) as in the pic to seat the blade against the backstop.
Jams:
If the drawer gets stuck in the full out position: The new blade is in contact with the injection slot opening. Use a wooden spoon and give the end of the handle a light rap. The drawer should free up and allow a blade to be injected.
If the drawer goes half way in and jams: Two blades are stuck together. In this case pull the drawer all the way out, gently rap the bottom drawer end of the razor on a wooden surface (won't mar the finish) a couple of times to settle the razor stack, then try to inject again.
