What's new

A few specific restore questions...

Ok, so I've grabbed a few blades off ebay that need to be cleaned up. Some are worse than others, some are pretty close to usable. I figured I'd start with this wostenholm, here are pics after a cursory oxidation/rust removal this morning.

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php



It's a full hollow, though I realize now I didn't take any head-on shots. As you can hopefully see despite the crappy photos, the blade is wider toward the heel, and narrower at the nose. Here's my dilemma: I only have a king 4k and chinese 12k. I'd like to even it out, get it completely flat (or damn near to, unless there's some reason not to).


I've got a buddy with a grinder, so I'm going to probably be polishing it on that, but what would be my best bet to flatten the blade and reset the bevel? I saw in Undreams videos that he hit the sandpaper with the blade at a pretty high angle to remove a smile/some nicks, I believe. Would this work in my case? Or would I have to breadknife it? Any and all suggestions/techniques welcomed!

I'm going to pop the scales off and probably refinish/reuse them to keep the blade as "original" as possible, but that's easy. Carpentry ain't no thang, unlike blade repair.


However, I'm debating whether to just send this one out for someone more experienced to handle. I'd just ask that they do the blade as I can handle the scales myself (which should save them time and effort, and hopefully me some cash :biggrin1:.
 
Last edited:
Whatever time we spend on something, we can never get back. It's gone, baby! With that said, I think you would be better off if you made better use of the time it would take to work on this specific razor.

PM me...
 
Severe hone wear.

Unless this belonged to your grandfather, Abe Lincoln, or some other notoriety it isn't worth the effort.
 
Really, Seraphim? I'm curious, why isn't it worth the effort? Because it's lost so much width at the nose? Could you elaborate a bit? I'm anxious to learn more about restoring razors, and your input would be appreciated.
 
Really, Seraphim? I'm curious, why isn't it worth the effort? Because it's lost so much width at the nose? Could you elaborate a bit? I'm anxious to learn more about restoring razors, and your input would be appreciated.


Yes, because of the loss of so much razor.

Restoring razors takes alot of effort. I would recommend you put that effort into a razor that will be a joy to you at the end of the process.
 
If I understand correctly, then you're saying that the razor probably won't work very well at the end of the restore? Is that because the loss of so much blade will change the honing angle, which might make for a worse shave? Or is there another reason I'm missing?

Thanks for all your input.


Also, looks like I'd better post some pictures/contact restorers with my other blades before I go looking to restore or have them restored. My ignorance is showing :blushing:
 
If I understand correctly, then you're saying that the razor probably won't work very well at the end of the restore? Is that because the loss of so much blade will change the honing angle, which might make for a worse shave? Or is there another reason I'm missing?

Thanks for all your input.

It will still probably function quite well. razors are simply sharpened pieces of steel after all...

But it will be very narrow, likely less than 4/8" wide, which will make the razor kind of twitchy to use. But I guess that's personal preference. Some guys like 3/8-4/8 razors.

Go ahead and mess around with it anyhow, you will be able to see how remarkably hard razor steel is the first time you try to sand it, etc.
 
Thanks. Oh, and I definitely believe you about the hardness of this steel. That basic rust removal alone was ridiculous! I'll play around with it though, as otherwise it'll just get trashed.
 
Or you could just hone it as it is and shave with it. And not worry about restoring it. I've got some uglies off the bay before that are just not worth the investment of time to make them all pretty, but they shave fine when honed.

That is assuming no edge damage of course.

EDIT: I see you already came to that conclusion. I think we were all typing at the same time. :biggrin1:
 
Last edited:
I've read on srp that there's a difference between grinders and buffers, so if you do take it to your friend's grinder be careful. I read that grinders go at a much higher speed and therefore the blade will heat up faster. So make sure you've got the ice water handy for dipping and keep an eye on the temp. All restoration guys say once you get to hot and screw the temper that's it, blade's toast.
 
I knew it was a keeper :lol:

keep the scales and refinish them, but use the blade for hone practice. If nothing else this blade will give you experience to use on future restores later. Then find a razor that has trashed scales and a good blade and restore that blade to go in these scales.

always remember the first rule of razor restoration... never toss out good parts, save them to be used in future restores. :thumbup:
 
keep the scales and refinish them, but use the blade for hone practice. If nothing else this blade will give you experience to use on future restores later. Then find a razor that has trashed scales and a good blade and restore that blade to go in these scales.

always remember the first rule of razor restoration... never toss out good parts, save them to be used in future restores. :thumbup:

Great minds think alike :biggrin1:. Already there, my friend. I think I'm going to hit the scales with some linseed oil for a more classic look. I prefer it to poly or epoxy for vintage stuff.
 
Top Bottom