After spending lots of time messing with naguras and tomos, Ive come to the conclusion that a 3 stone system works as well and is much faster. I Use a chosera 1k, midrange suita with atoma 1200 slurry and the same on any number of finishers. FOr my finish I always use a junker blade for 10 laps to make sure no boulders or diamonds are in the mix, DOesnt happen often but it has, and any audible or sensory will tell you whats what before you introduce your blade to your finisher. Nothing new here at all. You can do a 2 stone as well as per Alex Gilmore that works great as well. Variables are your stone cutting speed. A good vintage stone IMO is fast enough to achieve this, I believe the vintage stones have more abrasive than modern mined. Not a rule but seems to be they are faster to me and what I have here proves that, Not looking to say nagura progression is not worth it, just after playing with these things for several years its my go to way.
3 stone progression
- Thread starter buca3152
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I have nagura that i haven't played around with much, but have always used a three stone path as my go to. Its works well.
I had an interesting hone session yesterday. I was working something like i had read from a member and while it shaved it was
6/10 and had I not known better i probably would have been happy enough. I went back to my own path and it was much nicer result.
I think the nagura provide a different refinement allowing to sneak up an edge vs the larger change. May or may not be of significant value if you can't appreciate the difference.
I had an interesting hone session yesterday. I was working something like i had read from a member and while it shaved it was
6/10 and had I not known better i probably would have been happy enough. I went back to my own path and it was much nicer result.
I think the nagura provide a different refinement allowing to sneak up an edge vs the larger change. May or may not be of significant value if you can't appreciate the difference.
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- #3
Well a clean scratch pattern is achieved faster than with a nagura progression. For me having done much of both, I see no downside to doing it and will continue to. Not getting rid of my naguras though, I also have found a long time ago that a vigorous stropping after the hone on vintage linen or equivalent and leather makes for a big difference in the shave. As does a drop of glycerin on the finsh as well. I am convinced that my stones are undamaged by it, no one can tell me any different as I always use it on all my finishers. I havent been without the linen in a while. This is unpasted waxed flax linen as well as something I found that is made of nylon and readily available to be the equivalent, its cheap and readily available. Its a foam core and IMO works as well as any vintage linen Ive tried. One hour nagura progression vs a 12 minute hone or so? Nobody can convince me otherwise. But YMMV as always. Fire hose I have stayed away from, who knows whats in it and where it was used? So I prefer using what I use, why take a chance? JMO.
This is a reassuring post for someone like me who is relatively new to jnats. A wise man once told me to"keep it simple stupid" and I've been using a 2-3 stone method ever since. Though I do use a dmt card, I am curious to see how an atoma 1200 performs. This method works pretty good me. It's simple, fast, and less room for error, in my case at least.
I've had very nice edges from well seasoned honers using dmt slurry and nagura progressions. In my opinion I see very little difference.
I've had very nice edges from well seasoned honers using dmt slurry and nagura progressions. In my opinion I see very little difference.
Be careful using a DMT card, as it may lead to a little valley in the stone.
Not sure about the JNAT's as I do nt own any but I also settled on a 3 stone progression as well. 1K King, 6K King and 12K Guangxi. Strop on the two Duck Cloth Strops I made one with 50K Diamond Spray and the other with 200K. Gives me consistent results every single time and that is all I need.
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- #7
The biggest "breakthroughs" to me were glycerin to finish on, and vintage linen. The 1200 atoma works great. It produces finer than a 325 dmt for sure. BUT as with all diamond plate slurries, I always use a junker blade for 10 laps up and down. If you feel or hear anything, start over.A rogue diamond or the base stone sometimes kicks off a particle. This will send you back to the 1k real fast.
Someone once posted that it's that last 10% that makes a difference between a good edge and a great edge. This really rings true for me. I've resorted to playing around with glycerine to finish to try and get to that place. I've also been using the Kanayama canvas to cordovan to take care of any anomalies I may have left on the edge. I want to trust the canvas but it would appear that it takes just a little finessing so as not to degrade rather than polish the edge due to its rigidity. I'm sure down the road I will research vintage linen and see where that gets me. The tip for using a junker blade is sound advice and something I will keep in mind when I go that route.
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- #9
I have recently joined the coticule group and at present only own one but I have been playing around with some vintage blades and set the bevels on a Naniwa SS 1K then use a select coticule with a heavy slurry and do a reduced progression of half X strokes with medium heavy pressure then when I get down to 5 strokes I rinse the stone and do a dilucot with a light medium and finish on water with light pressure and then linen/leather and have been pleased, still have alot of learning on the coti but am happy to get a shaving edge that will be pretty smooth and only use two stones, do have a Apache to try after the Coticule but for now I need the practice on the coti.
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Three stone is my go to set up. Shapton pro 1.5K>5K>coticule or asagi. Sometimes I drop the 5K or use all four in progression, occasionally a little chromium oxide to finish.
I will need to look into a new strop, my basic Tony Miller one strip of latigo and my second hand Ambrose ebano/some sort of fabric have taken a beating in the last five years or so.
I will need to look into a new strop, my basic Tony Miller one strip of latigo and my second hand Ambrose ebano/some sort of fabric have taken a beating in the last five years or so.
Buca, I don't see the linen on the BET site. It was hard to find anything. Definitely tool guys and not web developers.
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- #13
I hoe you got a deal from them, I paid full price on their ebay. (Before reading to the end of this thread. can you say "impulsive"?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221888758243?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I also have no affiliation, but if Buca says it works, I'll try it.
P.S. Buca, any tips on use?
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- #15
Tips? Just use it! LOL. I did 200 laps with a factory gd at first and then just have at it. I have not tried anything else with this, like paste etc. I dont find anything else necessary really with it. Try it is all I will say! I was looking for hardware but one grommet is fine. Its stiff enough and using the end with no handle works great. Or you can srill holes in it to fit one of your components if you like, Vintage linen is variable, seems some is better than others, this is readily available and brand new, let me know how you make out with it!
Let me make sure I understand correctly, the mentioned auction above is the same linen as the one sold from Big Easy Tools?
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- #17
Yes.
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