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1887 Winchester lever action shotgun

So, I was at the antique store this weekend and the guy I buy all my woodworking tools from pulled me in the back and showed me an 1887 Winchester shotgun. The stock is cracked and taped together with what looks like old electrical tape and the bluing is wore and there is surface rust in some parts but everything functions as it should and the internal parts look ok. It honestly looks like it sat in a barn for 80 years, which I guess is plausible.

Being a sucker for things made before 1900 and a lover of the old west, when he told me he'd sell it to me for $150 I couldn't resist. It's cool just to hold a piece of history like that in my hands.

I know they only made about 65,000 of these between 1887 and 1899.

The serial number is covered up by the tape so I can't date it yet.

I guess I am looking for opinions. Should I take this to a gunsmith and get a quote on repairing the stock and addressing the rust? Is it not even worth doing that because of it's condition? Should I just leave it as is and keep it wiped down with ballistol so it doesn't deteriorate any more than it has? Im not worried about turning a profit on it as I probably won't sell it but I want to make sure whatever I do won't make things worse. I guess thats why I'm leaning towards bringing it to a trusted gunsmith and having them make the call, but I guess I'm interested in others opinions as well. IMG_20220905_140332057.jpgIMG_20220905_182035253.jpgScreenshot_20220826-081045.png
 
Only you can make the decision. I like my guns to look good and function. I don't know about reblueing, but I would see if the stock could be repaired. As you say it is at least 125 years old. Personally I would prefer it not to be taped together and is shooting condition. I do have one of the last Marlin .410 shotguns made, on the 1895 frame and it is fun to shoot. Those that you mention are larger gauge and if it were determined to be safe to shoot I would definetly look for some of the lighter load, low pressure ammo for it.
 
Only you can make the decision. I like my guns to look good and function. I don't know about reblueing, but I would see if the stock could be repaired. As you say it is at least 125 years old. Personally I would prefer it not to be taped together and is shooting condition. I do have one of the last Marlin .410 shotguns made, on the 1895 frame and it is fun to shoot. Those that you mention are larger gauge and if it were determined to be safe to shoot I would definetly look for some of the lighter load, low pressure ammo for it.

I guess I'm more interested in preserving it than making it look new. I want to neutralize the rust and maybe fix the stock. I know a collector would probably never look twice at it but I am more interested in the history of it than the value I guess.

I do reload, although I don't have a shotgun shell machine, but I would probably load very very light rounds if I was to fire it
 
I would guess it has Damascus barrels. I would forget about shooting it, and make a nice looking wall hanger.

I'd take the tape off the stock and use wood glue and filler to make a repair. I'd likely just clean the wood with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool, then wipe on a couple of coats of linseed oil.

For the metal, I would just clean it up with oil and 0000 steel wool. I use Kroil at my house for jobs like this.
 
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Whisky

ATF. I use all three.
Staff member
What @ColtRevolver says. Chances are you wouldn’t be able to shoot any modern shells through it because to size differences over the years and the fact it was almost 100% certainly made for black powder shot shells.
 
I would guess it has Damascus barrels. I would forget about shooting it, and make a nice looking wall hanger.

I'd take the tape off the stock and use wood glue and filler to make a repair. I'd likely just clean the wood with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool, then wipe on a couple of coats of linseed oil.

For the metal, I would just clean it up with oil and 0000 steel wool. I use Kroil at my house for jobs like this.
If you cannot tell the type of barrels have a gunsmith look it over. I would first forgo the steel wool. Kroil is good as it will penetrate almost everything, don't get it on the stock. As far as the rust what I have done in the past is gotten a new high speed drill bit, and hold by the fluted end, even better wrap the flutes with tape. Use the smooth, shank end and and oil, Kroil is fine and rub the rust, This will tend to remove less of the remaining blueing or patina than steel wool. Wipe oil and rust particles off frequently, reapply oil and keep going.
 
I think tonight I am going to cut the tape off so I can see the serial number and markings on the tang. I was debating leaving it in as found condition but I don't think that much matters anymore
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
@Jbird45 I agree with a careful cleanup but not a restoration. Don't attempt to fire it without a competent gunsmith inspection. We want to see more close-up pics!
 
@Jbird45 I agree with a careful cleanup but not a restoration. Don't attempt to fire it without a competent gunsmith inspection. We want to see more close-up pics!

Yes, I do have a good competent gunsmith I will bring it to. And IF I were to fire it I would probably custom load some black powder shells for it, but that is an if. If my memory serves me right they upgraded this gun and called it the 1901 to handle smokeless powder.

I will take more pictures later of the mechanisms and details
 
Contact the folks at RST Shells ( rstshells.com ). My understanding is that they make some cool voodoo bi-phase loads that are equivalent to BP in peak and burn.
 
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