For many people, the transition from cartridges to DE wet shaving is easy. However, for others, like me, it was required a steeper learning curve. I decided to share the method that worked very well for me. I understand that this is very much a YMMV lifestyle. What worked for me may not work for you, and something totally different may work for someone else. I'm not claiming this is the only way to go about things, but it may help someone along the way.
Cartridges are appealing because they are easy. Most people shave with canned foams or gels while using cartridges. It seems that many, when making the transition from cartridges to DE shaving, are all-in. They buy a shiny new razor, a nice brush, perhaps a lathering bowl, and artisan soaps. I think asking a noob to master all those parts at once is a big ask and they can get frustrated. I know I did. I first tried traditional DE wet shaving in 2015 by getting the whole spread, razors, brushes, and soaps. It didn't go well, so I quit. I tried again this last year, and it also got off to a very rough start. Luckily, I'm stubborn and kept with it. I tried so many different approaches until I finally found what worked for me. I think that many other noobs are at risk of quitting because they're trying the wrong things.
The Razor and its Angle
Getting the shaving angle correct is of the highest importance, but also unintuitive for many beginners.
Take a look at the handle angle of a cartridge razor. This is the brand I used for years. The handle is almost parallel to the skin.
This angle works because the blades in the cartridge are also pretty parallel to the skin. In DE terms, this would be a shallow angle and the razor would slice through the hair. I believe razor companies chose this angle because it shaves effectively without a lot of irritation to the skin. It takes most of the thought process out of shaving and works well enough for the mass market.
This creates a major problem for two reasons, I believe, when initially making the transition to DE razors. First, there is muscle memory from years of using cartridges. There's a natural tendency to use the new DE razor in the same angle as a cartridge razor. Second, so many shaving videos on YouTube have the men shaving very steep, with the DE razor handle almost parallel to the skin. The picture below shows what a DE razor looks like while having a very steep angle, which many people describe as "riding the bar." The problem with this approach is that the blade is no longer shallow against the skin like a cartridge razor. The blade geometries are completely different, and this results in more scraping than it does slicing. This caused me a lot of irritation. This is a rude entry into DE shaving from the world of cartridges. I consider steep shaving to be an advanced technique only suited for very experienced DE shavers who have fine-tuned their methods.
The picture below show a neutral angle, which is probably about 30 degrees, with the cap and safety bar both making contact. This is how the razor may have been designed to use, but it also presents another problem. Muscle memory from using cartridges has taught us to apply pressure. One of the first rules we read here at B&B is to apply no pressure. That's a difficult thing to get right at first, and it can cause some irritation. While the angle of the razor may be correct from the designer's standpoint, excess pressure will cause the blade to cut and scrape the skin, leading to irritation and razor burn. I struggled with this for far too long because I assumed the razor designer knew better than I did.
Instead, what worked for me, and what I recommend, is to "ride the cap" and shave with a very shallow angle, as shown below. That angle is probably about 45 degrees, but I may even go higher to 50 or 60 degrees depending on the audible feedback for each different razor. This is what made everything finally click for me and prevented me from quitting and going back to cartridges. It works for two reasons. First, the blade angle is now similar to that in cartridges. Second, it allows for the use of a little more pressure while shaving, which aids the noob in the transition. It's hard to shake years of muscle memory. A small mistake in pressure won't result in major irritation or injury.
The angle of the blade is essential in the transition from cartridges to DE blades. I think the tendency is to go too steep for the beginner, and this does more harm than good. This is also why I do not recommend the Henson AL13 for noobs despite its marketing as such an ideal beginner razor. The Henson, for me, was a scraper and not a slicer. It irritated by skin severely. I recommend a mild razor, like the Muhle r89, as shown.
Lathering
The next issue that gave me trouble, and I'm sure other noobs as well, is trying to make a good lather from hard soap that is both slick and protective. I have hard water and making the soap billowy is quite a challenge. I shaved without adequate protection for months, but I was so stubbornly committed to going all in with traditional DE wet shaving that I repeatedly irritated my face. I also kept reading countless posts about how canned foams and gels were no good and no self-respecting wet shaver should ever use them.
This is all a matter of opinion, of course, but that's not the best advice if we're trying to introduce a new person to the joys of DE wet shaving. Asking a noob to simultaneously master both a new razor and new lathering method is a lot. One thing at a time. Master the first, move on to the second.
Instead, I recommend sticking with canned foam in the beginning, but with some slight modifications. One of the criticisms against canned foam is that it is dry from the propellants, making it less slick. This is true, but is also very easily corrected.
First, squirt some canned foam in a bowl. I like Gillette Foamy the most, but others work well, too. Barbasol is noticeably drier out of the can than Gillette Foamy, but tweaking the method below will take care of that.
Next, add some water. A few small squirts from a water bottle will do. I squirt it directly on the foam and it runs through it and out the bottom.
Then, take a damp brush (wet it and ring out the excess water) and mix it all up. Add more water to achieve the desired lather. Take the brush and paint it on the face. This lather is now hydrated and slick. Canned goo isn't bad at all, but it requires a little prep. It has many decent ingredients, but a little more water is needed to make them sing.
Final Thoughts
This is what worked for me. Now that I've mastered these parts of DE shaving, I'm now exploring different shaving angles, including steeper, and making my own lathers from artisan soaps, croaps, and creams in tubes.
If I had stuck with the gospel of what was written here about neutral or steep angles, the insistence on luxury soaps, throwing canned foams in the trash, and other blanket recommendations, I would have probably given up and gone back to cartridges. Good thing I was persistent and willing to keep trying new things until I found something that worked.
Maybe this will work for you. If not, at least you were willing to try.
Cartridges are appealing because they are easy. Most people shave with canned foams or gels while using cartridges. It seems that many, when making the transition from cartridges to DE shaving, are all-in. They buy a shiny new razor, a nice brush, perhaps a lathering bowl, and artisan soaps. I think asking a noob to master all those parts at once is a big ask and they can get frustrated. I know I did. I first tried traditional DE wet shaving in 2015 by getting the whole spread, razors, brushes, and soaps. It didn't go well, so I quit. I tried again this last year, and it also got off to a very rough start. Luckily, I'm stubborn and kept with it. I tried so many different approaches until I finally found what worked for me. I think that many other noobs are at risk of quitting because they're trying the wrong things.
The Razor and its Angle
Getting the shaving angle correct is of the highest importance, but also unintuitive for many beginners.
Take a look at the handle angle of a cartridge razor. This is the brand I used for years. The handle is almost parallel to the skin.
This angle works because the blades in the cartridge are also pretty parallel to the skin. In DE terms, this would be a shallow angle and the razor would slice through the hair. I believe razor companies chose this angle because it shaves effectively without a lot of irritation to the skin. It takes most of the thought process out of shaving and works well enough for the mass market.
This creates a major problem for two reasons, I believe, when initially making the transition to DE razors. First, there is muscle memory from years of using cartridges. There's a natural tendency to use the new DE razor in the same angle as a cartridge razor. Second, so many shaving videos on YouTube have the men shaving very steep, with the DE razor handle almost parallel to the skin. The picture below shows what a DE razor looks like while having a very steep angle, which many people describe as "riding the bar." The problem with this approach is that the blade is no longer shallow against the skin like a cartridge razor. The blade geometries are completely different, and this results in more scraping than it does slicing. This caused me a lot of irritation. This is a rude entry into DE shaving from the world of cartridges. I consider steep shaving to be an advanced technique only suited for very experienced DE shavers who have fine-tuned their methods.
The picture below show a neutral angle, which is probably about 30 degrees, with the cap and safety bar both making contact. This is how the razor may have been designed to use, but it also presents another problem. Muscle memory from using cartridges has taught us to apply pressure. One of the first rules we read here at B&B is to apply no pressure. That's a difficult thing to get right at first, and it can cause some irritation. While the angle of the razor may be correct from the designer's standpoint, excess pressure will cause the blade to cut and scrape the skin, leading to irritation and razor burn. I struggled with this for far too long because I assumed the razor designer knew better than I did.
Instead, what worked for me, and what I recommend, is to "ride the cap" and shave with a very shallow angle, as shown below. That angle is probably about 45 degrees, but I may even go higher to 50 or 60 degrees depending on the audible feedback for each different razor. This is what made everything finally click for me and prevented me from quitting and going back to cartridges. It works for two reasons. First, the blade angle is now similar to that in cartridges. Second, it allows for the use of a little more pressure while shaving, which aids the noob in the transition. It's hard to shake years of muscle memory. A small mistake in pressure won't result in major irritation or injury.
The angle of the blade is essential in the transition from cartridges to DE blades. I think the tendency is to go too steep for the beginner, and this does more harm than good. This is also why I do not recommend the Henson AL13 for noobs despite its marketing as such an ideal beginner razor. The Henson, for me, was a scraper and not a slicer. It irritated by skin severely. I recommend a mild razor, like the Muhle r89, as shown.
Lathering
The next issue that gave me trouble, and I'm sure other noobs as well, is trying to make a good lather from hard soap that is both slick and protective. I have hard water and making the soap billowy is quite a challenge. I shaved without adequate protection for months, but I was so stubbornly committed to going all in with traditional DE wet shaving that I repeatedly irritated my face. I also kept reading countless posts about how canned foams and gels were no good and no self-respecting wet shaver should ever use them.
This is all a matter of opinion, of course, but that's not the best advice if we're trying to introduce a new person to the joys of DE wet shaving. Asking a noob to simultaneously master both a new razor and new lathering method is a lot. One thing at a time. Master the first, move on to the second.
Instead, I recommend sticking with canned foam in the beginning, but with some slight modifications. One of the criticisms against canned foam is that it is dry from the propellants, making it less slick. This is true, but is also very easily corrected.
First, squirt some canned foam in a bowl. I like Gillette Foamy the most, but others work well, too. Barbasol is noticeably drier out of the can than Gillette Foamy, but tweaking the method below will take care of that.
Next, add some water. A few small squirts from a water bottle will do. I squirt it directly on the foam and it runs through it and out the bottom.
Then, take a damp brush (wet it and ring out the excess water) and mix it all up. Add more water to achieve the desired lather. Take the brush and paint it on the face. This lather is now hydrated and slick. Canned goo isn't bad at all, but it requires a little prep. It has many decent ingredients, but a little more water is needed to make them sing.
Final Thoughts
This is what worked for me. Now that I've mastered these parts of DE shaving, I'm now exploring different shaving angles, including steeper, and making my own lathers from artisan soaps, croaps, and creams in tubes.
If I had stuck with the gospel of what was written here about neutral or steep angles, the insistence on luxury soaps, throwing canned foams in the trash, and other blanket recommendations, I would have probably given up and gone back to cartridges. Good thing I was persistent and willing to keep trying new things until I found something that worked.
Maybe this will work for you. If not, at least you were willing to try.
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