German Wilkinsons: nice, but not as smooth or long lasting as the vintage British.
ATG: yes, but that is as much the result of learned and refined prep and technique as any blade choice.
128 shaves on a NOS Wilkinson blade
- Thread starter bosseb
- Start date
ATG: yes, but that is as much the result of learned and refined prep and technique as any blade choice.
Thanks for the response, was just curious if you started going ATG. It's good to hear experiences like yours. You started DE shaving 2 years before I was born. I started 2 years ago, and will until my last breath.
I have a tuck of the England made Wilks that I will try in the SC on March 1.
Makes sense. NOTHING would take me away from the Sensor for quite a few years, but here I am!
- Thread starter
- #124
Yesterday I retired the red IP after 110 shaves. The end was rather abrupt as I had to abandon the blade in mid shave after it had caused a weeper in the moustache area. I did run it in the old with the rather heavy solid brass handle (51g) but no blade has ever caused me to abandon it in mid shave before. I do not think that this blade will be a part of my rotation any more after this experience. My sharper blades (Feather, Black 7 O'clock and the Polsilver SI) will likely get the most usage.
The red IP after 110 shaves. Castle Forbes Lavender ASB, old on aftermarket handle, da Vinci 293 brush and my last Martin de Candre Fougere jar
My method of shaving is still the same as in the original post in this thread and it consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/freestyle + ATG/freestyle), shallowest possible angle, lukewarm water water rinse and an AS. The new thing here is my homemade moisturizing oil that I apply after the AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra unrefined shea butter as needed during cold/dry season. After each shave I wipe the blade 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor.
I have been forced to develop a solid technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time over eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 59 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as cooperative as in my youth. The growth rate of my beard is on the slower side which makes daily shaving an exercise in precision.
I shave every day and all my shaves for the last 7 years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I use vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece) and for me good soaps and sticks mainly from Mystic Water. I use my 18 (+ 2) razor rotation by changing both razor and brush every week. I go from mild to efficient in the razors and usually change my brushes in a spontaneous manner. Of course very big brushes do not lend themselves to stick lathering because they hog the soap too much.
During these 110 shaves I have had three weepers . All of them except the last one were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration. For the first time I do blame the blade for the last very uncomfortable weeper in my sensitive moustache area.
The main parts in a good shave are in my experience: angle, pressure, direction of strokes after a beard mapping, good lather usage and moisturizing the skin after and between shaves.
Using exotic or expensive gear will not be of any benefit here. No badger or blade will ever make your shave - your technique will.
Angle: I use a shallow angle. As a matter of fact I use the shallowest angle possible. Hold the razor head flat to your face. Tilt the handle so you can feel the blade just engage your beard. Shave with short (1 - 3 cm) slanting strokes while realigning the angle when the angle of the beard changes. I have to do this very frequently because of my beard pattern.
Pressure: I use the lightest pressure possible. When in doubt use less pressure. If the blade doesn't cut you have the angle wrong. If you want to explore the concept of light pressure I recommend using a straight razor type of blade holder and a Feather Pro blade.
Direction of strokes: Do a very thorough mapping of your beard growth by observing the angle and direction of the stubble growth compared to the skin. You will be surprised by the variation in angle! For each change in direction and angle of the beard you will have to adjust the razor so keep the strokes very short while varying the angle. I use a 2 pass shave consisting of one XTG+freestyle pass and one ATG+freestyle pass. I almost always manage to avoid an extensive third cleanup pass.
Good lather: Good lather is made by good technique. I do recommend to use only one soap, cream or stick until you are able to control the consistency of the lather. To determine how much water to use make the lather as wet as possible, then add more water until the lather self destructs. By this time you will know how much water is enough for this soap. Many soaps take a lot more water than you think! Use a long loading time (about 45 seconds) and build the lather on top of the soap if you use soap. If you use a stick do make sure that you go paste - proto lather - moist lather in three distinct phases and add water once more to get the shine at the end.
I rotate 20+ brushes on a weekly basis to keep the process of lather making alive. The variation in the brushes forces me to adjust and monitor my technique constantly. IMHO your technique will allow you to control the process in a better way if you use a good quality brush. I do not rinse out the soap before re lathering, I merely wet my hands and spread the remaining lather evenly onto the beard area. At the end of the shave I add more water until the white disappears and leaves only the moist film of soap on the beard area. At this point I do the cleanup if necessary with extremely light pressure and the correct angle for the remaining micro stubble. This is the place to develop your feeling for pressure and angle. You should be able to develop a technique that allows repeated blade buffing and j-hooking over the same area.
Moisturizing: This part of a good shave seems to be generally neglected.
This has for me been the key to an enjoyable shave at the highest level and the part I have managed to develop the most during this last year. I am now able to use any aftershave I wish, including alcohol based splashes during the cold and dry season. I simply apply the AS after the shave and then I apply my own skin oil.
I have mixed together 30 ml of Argan oil, 30 ml of Jojoba oil, 30 ml of Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, 5 ml of vitamin E and 5 ml of Sea Buckthorn oil. All ingredients are ecological. This oil is for me the best product I have ever used for moisturizing and I only use four drops of it each time. During the winter I intermittently use unrefined Shea butter for added protection against wind and snow. I find making my own oil and using a non refined shea butter much easier than trying to decipher the ingredients of ever changing products. The product is easy to tweak for the occasion.
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier cleanup pass by incorporating freestyle strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thoroughly and work in the remaining lather after the ATG pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with my homemade moisturizer. I consider this a part of the prep (for the next shave).
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...E-and-Injector . The measuring of the number of shaves from each blade is a great metric for developing your technique and getting better shaves out of your existing equipment.
Above all else: Do enjoy your shaves!
After this run I will establish a new standard run for my shaving on the Polsilver SI blade.
I intend to replace my old standard of 56 shaves with a new one. I will be switching the blade into a more efficient razor every week. I have completed my razor rotation to 18 vintage Gillettes with the possible extension of my FaTip Piccolo and the Swedish Matador De Luxe vintage 2 piece. I will return with a report on how this endeavour unfolds...
The red IP after 110 shaves. Castle Forbes Lavender ASB, old on aftermarket handle, da Vinci 293 brush and my last Martin de Candre Fougere jar
My method of shaving is still the same as in the original post in this thread and it consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/freestyle + ATG/freestyle), shallowest possible angle, lukewarm water water rinse and an AS. The new thing here is my homemade moisturizing oil that I apply after the AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra unrefined shea butter as needed during cold/dry season. After each shave I wipe the blade 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor.
I have been forced to develop a solid technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time over eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 59 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as cooperative as in my youth. The growth rate of my beard is on the slower side which makes daily shaving an exercise in precision.
I shave every day and all my shaves for the last 7 years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I use vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece) and for me good soaps and sticks mainly from Mystic Water. I use my 18 (+ 2) razor rotation by changing both razor and brush every week. I go from mild to efficient in the razors and usually change my brushes in a spontaneous manner. Of course very big brushes do not lend themselves to stick lathering because they hog the soap too much.
During these 110 shaves I have had three weepers . All of them except the last one were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration. For the first time I do blame the blade for the last very uncomfortable weeper in my sensitive moustache area.
The main parts in a good shave are in my experience: angle, pressure, direction of strokes after a beard mapping, good lather usage and moisturizing the skin after and between shaves.
Using exotic or expensive gear will not be of any benefit here. No badger or blade will ever make your shave - your technique will.
Angle: I use a shallow angle. As a matter of fact I use the shallowest angle possible. Hold the razor head flat to your face. Tilt the handle so you can feel the blade just engage your beard. Shave with short (1 - 3 cm) slanting strokes while realigning the angle when the angle of the beard changes. I have to do this very frequently because of my beard pattern.
Pressure: I use the lightest pressure possible. When in doubt use less pressure. If the blade doesn't cut you have the angle wrong. If you want to explore the concept of light pressure I recommend using a straight razor type of blade holder and a Feather Pro blade.
Direction of strokes: Do a very thorough mapping of your beard growth by observing the angle and direction of the stubble growth compared to the skin. You will be surprised by the variation in angle! For each change in direction and angle of the beard you will have to adjust the razor so keep the strokes very short while varying the angle. I use a 2 pass shave consisting of one XTG+freestyle pass and one ATG+freestyle pass. I almost always manage to avoid an extensive third cleanup pass.
Good lather: Good lather is made by good technique. I do recommend to use only one soap, cream or stick until you are able to control the consistency of the lather. To determine how much water to use make the lather as wet as possible, then add more water until the lather self destructs. By this time you will know how much water is enough for this soap. Many soaps take a lot more water than you think! Use a long loading time (about 45 seconds) and build the lather on top of the soap if you use soap. If you use a stick do make sure that you go paste - proto lather - moist lather in three distinct phases and add water once more to get the shine at the end.
I rotate 20+ brushes on a weekly basis to keep the process of lather making alive. The variation in the brushes forces me to adjust and monitor my technique constantly. IMHO your technique will allow you to control the process in a better way if you use a good quality brush. I do not rinse out the soap before re lathering, I merely wet my hands and spread the remaining lather evenly onto the beard area. At the end of the shave I add more water until the white disappears and leaves only the moist film of soap on the beard area. At this point I do the cleanup if necessary with extremely light pressure and the correct angle for the remaining micro stubble. This is the place to develop your feeling for pressure and angle. You should be able to develop a technique that allows repeated blade buffing and j-hooking over the same area.
Moisturizing: This part of a good shave seems to be generally neglected.
This has for me been the key to an enjoyable shave at the highest level and the part I have managed to develop the most during this last year. I am now able to use any aftershave I wish, including alcohol based splashes during the cold and dry season. I simply apply the AS after the shave and then I apply my own skin oil.
I have mixed together 30 ml of Argan oil, 30 ml of Jojoba oil, 30 ml of Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, 5 ml of vitamin E and 5 ml of Sea Buckthorn oil. All ingredients are ecological. This oil is for me the best product I have ever used for moisturizing and I only use four drops of it each time. During the winter I intermittently use unrefined Shea butter for added protection against wind and snow. I find making my own oil and using a non refined shea butter much easier than trying to decipher the ingredients of ever changing products. The product is easy to tweak for the occasion.
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier cleanup pass by incorporating freestyle strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thoroughly and work in the remaining lather after the ATG pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with my homemade moisturizer. I consider this a part of the prep (for the next shave).
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...E-and-Injector . The measuring of the number of shaves from each blade is a great metric for developing your technique and getting better shaves out of your existing equipment.
Above all else: Do enjoy your shaves!
After this run I will establish a new standard run for my shaving on the Polsilver SI blade.
I intend to replace my old standard of 56 shaves with a new one. I will be switching the blade into a more efficient razor every week. I have completed my razor rotation to 18 vintage Gillettes with the possible extension of my FaTip Piccolo and the Swedish Matador De Luxe vintage 2 piece. I will return with a report on how this endeavour unfolds...
Great update Bosse.
Like you, I stick with a razor for a while, rotate brushes as I see fit, use the shallowest angle possible and never do more then 2 passes.
Amazing work. Well done.
Like you, I stick with a razor for a while, rotate brushes as I see fit, use the shallowest angle possible and never do more then 2 passes.
Amazing work. Well done.
I think the blade just went out of its mind after just 109 shaves. Though that is the only way to get retired these days.
- Thread starter
- #127
Bosse, you mind sharing your mild to efficient razor progression? I'm the process of at least mentally doing the same with the razor I have and its not been easy. Not sure why am doing it.
We know not everyone will agree. Then again, people also say more than 10 comfortable shaves out a blade is not possible so we already know you can stand in the middle of the storm.
We know not everyone will agree. Then again, people also say more than 10 comfortable shaves out a blade is not possible so we already know you can stand in the middle of the storm.
- Thread starter
- #129
I have just recently expanded my razor rotation to incorporate 18 vintage Gillettes and 2 spare non Gillettes. I am unsure about the last two razors because they are different than the Gillettes. The Fatip Piccolo is markedly head heavy and very aggressive while the Swedish Matador 2 piece is just clumsy.
My active rotation consists of ( ordered by aggressiveness):
3 piece: 4 Techs (US C-2, British aluminium, British Flat Bottom and the US pre war Tech), 4 NEWs (US LC, US SC, British 7 O'clock style and British Raised Flat Bottom), a Goodwill, a US NEW Deluxe. I use the 3 piece razors on different handles: US bar, US Fat, US Ball end, British (Hollow ) Ball end and the aftermarket solid brass handle (weighing 51g) from Connaught shaving. I also sometimes use the 57 g Stainless from Maggard.
TTOs: Rocket HD, Aristocrat Jr ('49), set No 58, US '34 Aristocrat, British #15, #16 and #22.
I always try to finish the run with the old type.
I use each razor for one week of daily shaves. My reason for doing this is simplicity and predictability. This way of rotating is for me a method of getting very good shaves from the equipment and maintaining a solid technique thru the adaptation of different razors and the necessary changes in the technique.
I use the same rotational method with my 20+ rotation of brushes too.
My active rotation consists of ( ordered by aggressiveness):
3 piece: 4 Techs (US C-2, British aluminium, British Flat Bottom and the US pre war Tech), 4 NEWs (US LC, US SC, British 7 O'clock style and British Raised Flat Bottom), a Goodwill, a US NEW Deluxe. I use the 3 piece razors on different handles: US bar, US Fat, US Ball end, British (Hollow ) Ball end and the aftermarket solid brass handle (weighing 51g) from Connaught shaving. I also sometimes use the 57 g Stainless from Maggard.
TTOs: Rocket HD, Aristocrat Jr ('49), set No 58, US '34 Aristocrat, British #15, #16 and #22.
I always try to finish the run with the old type.
I use each razor for one week of daily shaves. My reason for doing this is simplicity and predictability. This way of rotating is for me a method of getting very good shaves from the equipment and maintaining a solid technique thru the adaptation of different razors and the necessary changes in the technique.
I use the same rotational method with my 20+ rotation of brushes too.
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Thanks Bosse. That is very illustrative. I use a razor for 3-4 days and then switch. Brushes are in rotation and changed daily. With a little bit of time I think I'll have a similar ration system to what you have, just not yet. But it's been only two years since I got my second non cartridge razor and second shaving soap, and about a year from my second brush. Now, after seconds came things went wild.
- Thread starter
- #131
The important thing is not where you are, it's your willingness to develop.
I have now been at it actively for about ten years, since the beginning of B&B. I lurked for several years but I actually started DE shaving with soap and brush in 1980.
So please take your time, the development is not linear. The reason I have expanded my active rotation is that I want to be able to run an established standard run on any of my sharper blades for the life span of the blade. Since I think the run will be 100+ daily shaves I now have in place enough hardware to support 100+ shaves while changing razor and brush each week.
Always remember that the goal is to have more enjoyable and effortless shaves - blade longevity is merely the metric used to monitor the development of the shaving technique. A solid technique will produce more enjoyable shaves, no badger or blade will ever make your shave but your technique will.
It's really as simple as that. Enjoy your shaves!
- Thread starter
- #132
After a concentrated effort for the last 18 months or so I have finally managed to establish a new comfortable and effortless standard run of shaves on my favorite sharp blade; the Polsilver SI. This standard now consists of 126 daily, effortless and very comfortable shaves. The earlier standard for me was 56 shaves on the this blade. The actual number of shaves during this run is however not 126 but a few less due to switching between morning and evening shaves. A few times I have skipped the night shave all together. This has happened less than 10 times during the run. This makes the net amount shaves to about 116+ for this run.
The purpose of this effort is to ensure that I will be able to enjoy the best shaves possible now and into the future. The counting of shaves per blade is merely the metric to determine the quality of the shave. My simple take on this is that a better technique offers better shaves. The level of the technique is measured by the amount of shaves.
The Polsilver SI after the new standard run. Castle Forbes Lavender ASB, old on aftermarket handle, Paladin Ebonite 24 mm brush, the last of the Cella in wide Portuguese antique pewter bowl and my home made post shave oil in the brown bottle
My method of shaving is still more or less the same as in the original post in this thread and it consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (freestyle + freestyle), shallowest possible angle, lukewarm water water rinse and an AS. I use my homemade skin conditioner that I apply after the AS.
After building the lather I pick it up from the wide pewter bowl or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra unrefined shea butter as needed during cold/dry season. After each shave I cleane the blade by wiping it 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor. I flip the blade each time I load it inta a new razor, although I am not convinced that this has any effect on the blades condition.
I have been forced to develop a solid technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time over eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 59 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as cooperative as in my youth.
I shave every day and all my shaves for the last 7+ years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase; porcelain skin feeling in every direction. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I now use 18 vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece), a 20+ rotation of good brushes and for me good croaps from Italy (mainly the standard Vitos green) and various sticks (La Toja, LEA, Speick, Palmolive (the EU version) and Arko. I use my rotations by changing both razor and brush every Saturday. I go from mild to efficient in the razors and usually change my brushes in a spontaneous manner. Of course very big brushes do not lend themselves to stick lathering because they hog too much soap.
During these 116+ shaves I have had three weepers . All of them were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration. All occured while the blade was at its sharpest during the first two weeks.
The main things of a good shave are in my experience: angle, pressure, direction of strokes after a beard mapping, good lather usage and moisturizing the skin after and between shaves (~prep). No badger or blade will ever make your shave - your technique will.
Angle: I use a shallow angle. As a matter of fact I use the shallowest angle possible. Hold the razor head flat to your face. Tilt the handle so you can feel the blade just engage your beard. Shave with short slanting strokes while realigning the angle when the direction of the beard growth changes. I have to do this very frequently because of my beard pattern.
Pressure: I use the lightest pressure possible. When in doubt use less pressure. If the blade doesn't cut you have the angle wrong. If you want to explore the concept of just enough pressure I recommend using a straight razor type of blade holder and a Feather Pro blade or a very heavy razor like the Rocnel half blade SE. I intermittently use both to re calibrate my touch on the skin.
Direction of strokes: Do a very thorough mapping of your beard growth by observing the angle and direction of the stubble growth compared to the skin while applying lather. You will be surprised by the variation in angle as well as direction! For each change in direction and angle of the beard growth you will have to adjust the razor, so keep the strokes very short while varying the angle. I use a 2 pass shave consisting of two freestyle passes. I almost always manage to avoid an extensive third cleanup pass by incorporating the findings of the first pass into the second one.
Good lather: Good lather is made by good technique. I do recommend to use only one soap, croap, cream or stick until you are able to control the consistency of the lather with various brushes. To determine how much water to use make the lather as wet as possible, then add more water until the lather self destructs. By this time you will know how much water is enough for this soap with this brush. Many soaps take a lot more water than you think! I use a medium loading time (20 seconds) after a thorough soaking of the croap and build the lather on top of the croap in a wide bowl. If you use a stick do make sure that you go paste - proto lather - moist lather in three distinct phases and add water once more to get the shine at the end.
I rotate 20+ brushes on a weekly basis to keep the process of lather making alive. The variation in the brushes forces me to adjust and monitor my technique constantly. IMHO your technique will allow you to control the process in a better way if you use a good quality brush. I do not rinse out the soap from the face before re lathering, I merely wet my hands and spread the remaining lather evenly onto the beard area while checking the stubble and the wetness of the face. At the end of the shave I add more water until the white disappears and leaves only the moist film of the soap on the beard area. At this point I do the cleanup if necessary with extremely light pressure and the correct angle for the remaining micro stubble. This is the place to develop your feeling for pressure and angle. You should be able to develop a technique that allows repeated blade buffing and j-hooking over the same area.
Moisturizing: This part of a good shave seems to be generally neglected.
This has for me been the key to an enjoyable shave at the highest level and the part I have managed to develop the most during this last year. I am now able to use any aftershave I wish, including alcohol based splashes during the cold and dry season. I simply apply the AS after the shave and then I apply my own skin conditioner.
I have mixed together 30 ml of Argan oil, 30 ml of Jojoba oil, 30 ml of Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, 5 ml of vitamin E and 5 ml of Sea Buckthorn oil. All ingredients are organic. This oil is for me the best product I have ever used for skin conditioning and I only use four drops of it each time. During the winter I intermittently use unrefined Shea butter for added protection against wind, cold temperature and snow. I find making my own oil and using a non refined shea butter much easier than trying to decipher the ingredients of ever changing products. The product is easy to tweak for the occasion.
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Always aim to learn more and adapt your technique to the circumstances. Make an effort to keep the technique alive and on its toes. This is for me easiest to do by varying the equipment I use. Always go for the comfort and effortlessness in each shave.
* Use every component of the shave for its intended purpose. For glide and protection use a suitable soap. For healing the skin use a good aftershave. For skin conditioning after and between shaves use a skin conditioner, or better still; make your own! For a nice scent use a suitable cologne. To protect the skin from the elements use a suitable product like unrefined shea butter. Live and eat well between shaves.
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier third cleanup pass by incorporating freestyle strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thoroughly and work in the remaining lather after the first pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush and making the lather. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with my homemade moisturizer. I consider this a part of the prep (for the next shave).
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread ( http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/431416-Excalibur-Club-Blade-Longevity-DE-SE-and-Injector ).
The measuring of the number of shaves from each blade is a great metric for developing your technique and getting better shaves out of your existing equipment.
Above all else: Do enjoy your shaves!
The purpose of this effort is to ensure that I will be able to enjoy the best shaves possible now and into the future. The counting of shaves per blade is merely the metric to determine the quality of the shave. My simple take on this is that a better technique offers better shaves. The level of the technique is measured by the amount of shaves.
The Polsilver SI after the new standard run. Castle Forbes Lavender ASB, old on aftermarket handle, Paladin Ebonite 24 mm brush, the last of the Cella in wide Portuguese antique pewter bowl and my home made post shave oil in the brown bottle
My method of shaving is still more or less the same as in the original post in this thread and it consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (freestyle + freestyle), shallowest possible angle, lukewarm water water rinse and an AS. I use my homemade skin conditioner that I apply after the AS.
After building the lather I pick it up from the wide pewter bowl or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra unrefined shea butter as needed during cold/dry season. After each shave I cleane the blade by wiping it 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor. I flip the blade each time I load it inta a new razor, although I am not convinced that this has any effect on the blades condition.
I have been forced to develop a solid technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time over eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 59 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as cooperative as in my youth.
I shave every day and all my shaves for the last 7+ years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase; porcelain skin feeling in every direction. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I now use 18 vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece), a 20+ rotation of good brushes and for me good croaps from Italy (mainly the standard Vitos green) and various sticks (La Toja, LEA, Speick, Palmolive (the EU version) and Arko. I use my rotations by changing both razor and brush every Saturday. I go from mild to efficient in the razors and usually change my brushes in a spontaneous manner. Of course very big brushes do not lend themselves to stick lathering because they hog too much soap.
During these 116+ shaves I have had three weepers . All of them were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration. All occured while the blade was at its sharpest during the first two weeks.
The main things of a good shave are in my experience: angle, pressure, direction of strokes after a beard mapping, good lather usage and moisturizing the skin after and between shaves (~prep). No badger or blade will ever make your shave - your technique will.
Angle: I use a shallow angle. As a matter of fact I use the shallowest angle possible. Hold the razor head flat to your face. Tilt the handle so you can feel the blade just engage your beard. Shave with short slanting strokes while realigning the angle when the direction of the beard growth changes. I have to do this very frequently because of my beard pattern.
Pressure: I use the lightest pressure possible. When in doubt use less pressure. If the blade doesn't cut you have the angle wrong. If you want to explore the concept of just enough pressure I recommend using a straight razor type of blade holder and a Feather Pro blade or a very heavy razor like the Rocnel half blade SE. I intermittently use both to re calibrate my touch on the skin.
Direction of strokes: Do a very thorough mapping of your beard growth by observing the angle and direction of the stubble growth compared to the skin while applying lather. You will be surprised by the variation in angle as well as direction! For each change in direction and angle of the beard growth you will have to adjust the razor, so keep the strokes very short while varying the angle. I use a 2 pass shave consisting of two freestyle passes. I almost always manage to avoid an extensive third cleanup pass by incorporating the findings of the first pass into the second one.
Good lather: Good lather is made by good technique. I do recommend to use only one soap, croap, cream or stick until you are able to control the consistency of the lather with various brushes. To determine how much water to use make the lather as wet as possible, then add more water until the lather self destructs. By this time you will know how much water is enough for this soap with this brush. Many soaps take a lot more water than you think! I use a medium loading time (20 seconds) after a thorough soaking of the croap and build the lather on top of the croap in a wide bowl. If you use a stick do make sure that you go paste - proto lather - moist lather in three distinct phases and add water once more to get the shine at the end.
I rotate 20+ brushes on a weekly basis to keep the process of lather making alive. The variation in the brushes forces me to adjust and monitor my technique constantly. IMHO your technique will allow you to control the process in a better way if you use a good quality brush. I do not rinse out the soap from the face before re lathering, I merely wet my hands and spread the remaining lather evenly onto the beard area while checking the stubble and the wetness of the face. At the end of the shave I add more water until the white disappears and leaves only the moist film of the soap on the beard area. At this point I do the cleanup if necessary with extremely light pressure and the correct angle for the remaining micro stubble. This is the place to develop your feeling for pressure and angle. You should be able to develop a technique that allows repeated blade buffing and j-hooking over the same area.
Moisturizing: This part of a good shave seems to be generally neglected.
This has for me been the key to an enjoyable shave at the highest level and the part I have managed to develop the most during this last year. I am now able to use any aftershave I wish, including alcohol based splashes during the cold and dry season. I simply apply the AS after the shave and then I apply my own skin conditioner.
I have mixed together 30 ml of Argan oil, 30 ml of Jojoba oil, 30 ml of Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, 5 ml of vitamin E and 5 ml of Sea Buckthorn oil. All ingredients are organic. This oil is for me the best product I have ever used for skin conditioning and I only use four drops of it each time. During the winter I intermittently use unrefined Shea butter for added protection against wind, cold temperature and snow. I find making my own oil and using a non refined shea butter much easier than trying to decipher the ingredients of ever changing products. The product is easy to tweak for the occasion.
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Always aim to learn more and adapt your technique to the circumstances. Make an effort to keep the technique alive and on its toes. This is for me easiest to do by varying the equipment I use. Always go for the comfort and effortlessness in each shave.
* Use every component of the shave for its intended purpose. For glide and protection use a suitable soap. For healing the skin use a good aftershave. For skin conditioning after and between shaves use a skin conditioner, or better still; make your own! For a nice scent use a suitable cologne. To protect the skin from the elements use a suitable product like unrefined shea butter. Live and eat well between shaves.
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier third cleanup pass by incorporating freestyle strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thoroughly and work in the remaining lather after the first pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush and making the lather. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with my homemade moisturizer. I consider this a part of the prep (for the next shave).
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread ( http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/431416-Excalibur-Club-Blade-Longevity-DE-SE-and-Injector ).
The measuring of the number of shaves from each blade is a great metric for developing your technique and getting better shaves out of your existing equipment.
Above all else: Do enjoy your shaves!
Bosse, such a zen approach to each step. And so clinical. Love reading your analysis.
Bosse, you and I shave pretty much the same way...mostly because I've read your threads from the start and tried everything you've encouraged. One of your best tips for me was the extreme shallow angle shaving.
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- #135
I think the effectiveness of this approach is really based on the continuous monitoring and changing of the angle. The angle changes frequently, it is never constant and by that adjustment the shaver develops a sense for the optimal handling of the razor on every spot on the beard. Continuous adjustment combined with accumulated knowledge of the face leads to enjoyable and effortless shaves. It all starts with active adjustments!
128 shaves from a single blade?..... I get 3 shaves from Voskhods, 5-6 shaves from Astra SP, GSB, Nacet, maybe 4 shaves from Feather... Longest lasting blade for me is the GEM PTFE of max 10 shaves.....
One thing I have noticed is that dull blade gives me skin irritation due to having to pass same spot many times, yes no pressure at all applied but going trough the same area too many times gives me skin burn....
I have no clue how people go X amount of shaves with dull blade and get no irritation?
One thing I have noticed is that dull blade gives me skin irritation due to having to pass same spot many times, yes no pressure at all applied but going trough the same area too many times gives me skin burn....
I have no clue how people go X amount of shaves with dull blade and get no irritation?
For me, blades don't dull after a handful of shaves.
Razors make a big difference for me, what razors do you use?
Good prep/lather. If you nail those, even a dull blade will cut easily.
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- #139
It's a question of challenging yourself and your preconceived notions of what's possible. Taking small steps in a planned direction. Nobody does this 'out of the blue' so to speak. I have been actively bettering my shaves for well on to the 11th year now - I started DE shaving (mindlessly) in 1980...
It's like getting to the top of Mount Everest (or to Carnegie Hall). It takes practice, lots of practice!
I use aggressive razors, OC and SFB Pearl/Cadet, Rockwell 6s #6, Fatip Grande etc.
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