Today I did the 128th and final shave with the Wilkinson Super Sword-Edge blade. This is a major increase in the number of shaves I usually do, 56 on Polsilver SIs and 28 to 49 on lesser blades. My two metrics in this: the five o'clock shadow (as measured 7 hours after the shave) and the 24 hour stubble indicate that the blade doesn't produce the quality of cutting I wish to have any more. Good shaving is all about avoiding looking scruffy while being comfortable after an effortless shave. Of course I could use a more thorough clean up pass but I do not wish to deviate from my standard shave in any way - with the risk of losing effortlessness or comfort.
The final shave: Mystic Water Bay Rum, blade in a #22 Aristocrat, Shavemac Silvertip and DR Harris Windsor ASB
The idea behind blade life stretching is to have a measure of how your shaving technique is evolving. It is clear that the blades were not built to last only for a few shaves. There is no way such a blade would have made it on the market when DE shaving with blades was the dominating method, nor today when a lot of shavers rely on blades. Old timers might tell you that they usually used a blade for a month or so.
I set out on this endeavour in order to gain more knowledge on how I could improve my shaving with my contemporary blades. I thought that by using a known long lasting blade I can focus on my shaving technique and in this way better my standard shaving routine. A major input was also a conversation I had last year with an elderly metallurgist who had been involved in developing the steel for these Wilkies. He told me about the importance of knowing your materials, how to gradually develop the metal and at the same time making sure that production line was able to take advantage of these advancements. The goal with these Wilkinson blades was to make a better blade (sharper and longer lasting) than Gillette was able to produce. According to my source they succeeded. My lack of knowledge and experience of the vintage Gillette blades prevents me from having an informed personal opinion about this.
About my shaving: I have been forced to develop a good technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 58 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as coopertative as in my youth.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/freestyle + ATG/freestyle), very shallow angle, luke warm water water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra generic moisturizer once a week or daily during cold/dry season. After each shave I strop the blade 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last six years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I use vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece) and for me good soaps and sticks, mainly from Mystic Water. During these 128 shaves I have had four weepers and all of them were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration.
Preparing for the Memorial service which will include Old Pulteney Noss Head single malt after 128 shaves
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier cleanup pass by incorporating free style strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thorouhly and work in the remaining lather after the ATG pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with a generic moisturizer.
I dedicate this 128 shave long endeavour to the enthusiasts who in the past and present times supply us with supreme tools to enable us to enjoy this rather odd hobby of ours. Their dedication makes our hobby so much sweeter!
I'm thinking of the Wilkinson production engineers and their collaboration with the Swedish steel producers in making these remarkable blades. I also include the creators of the Aristocrat TTO razors on both sides of the pond. Present day artisans that have made a difference in not only my shaving are Bernd Blos of Shavemac, father and son (Ken and Cody) team at Dark Holler together with Lee Sabini and of course Rudy Vey, when it comes to brushes. Lastly, but certainly not least, I think of Michelle Burns at Mystic Water for the soaps that made this long run and my shaving in general an exquisite pleasure.
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/431416-Excalibur-Club-Blade-Longevity-DE-SE-and-Injector
This thread is a continuation from the thread where the Wilkie reached 100 shaves: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/445023-100-shaves-on-one-blade . Lots of good info there!
The Wilkie from tuck (one of two) in original wrapper with no shaves on it
Enjoy your shaves, I certainly do enjoy mine more than ever!
The final shave: Mystic Water Bay Rum, blade in a #22 Aristocrat, Shavemac Silvertip and DR Harris Windsor ASB
The idea behind blade life stretching is to have a measure of how your shaving technique is evolving. It is clear that the blades were not built to last only for a few shaves. There is no way such a blade would have made it on the market when DE shaving with blades was the dominating method, nor today when a lot of shavers rely on blades. Old timers might tell you that they usually used a blade for a month or so.
I set out on this endeavour in order to gain more knowledge on how I could improve my shaving with my contemporary blades. I thought that by using a known long lasting blade I can focus on my shaving technique and in this way better my standard shaving routine. A major input was also a conversation I had last year with an elderly metallurgist who had been involved in developing the steel for these Wilkies. He told me about the importance of knowing your materials, how to gradually develop the metal and at the same time making sure that production line was able to take advantage of these advancements. The goal with these Wilkinson blades was to make a better blade (sharper and longer lasting) than Gillette was able to produce. According to my source they succeeded. My lack of knowledge and experience of the vintage Gillette blades prevents me from having an informed personal opinion about this.
About my shaving: I have been forced to develop a good technique because of severe problems with irritated skin in the past. On doctors orders I returned to DE shaving full time eight years ago but I did my first DE shaves in 1980. Unfortunately my beard growth pattern is quite bizarre, with two 360 degree swirls and two surgical scars after mole removal. I have to shave my moustache area, after the two main directions in each pass, in six additional and non symmetrical directions. These problems have led me to develop a technique most shavers fortunately don't need. My beard type I would think of as normal, I am of Finnish origin so I don't have a blond light Swedish type of beard. After reaching 58 years of age the whiskers have turned grey and are definitely not as coopertative as in my youth.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/freestyle + ATG/freestyle), very shallow angle, luke warm water water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or apply a stick directly to my face. I apply extra generic moisturizer once a week or daily during cold/dry season. After each shave I strop the blade 4 times on each side on my shower towel while it is in the razor. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last six years have been BBS in the strictest meaning of the phrase. I have been DE shaving since 1980 and doing it full time for the last eight years. I use vintage Gillette razors (TTOs and 3 piece) and for me good soaps and sticks, mainly from Mystic Water. During these 128 shaves I have had four weepers and all of them were of course caused by a lapse in my technique or concentration.
Preparing for the Memorial service which will include Old Pulteney Noss Head single malt after 128 shaves
Lessons learned, besides the obvious ones of control of angle and pressure:
* Lather quality is the deal breaker. This includes the right amount of hydration of the skin and the right amount of protective glide. I don't rinse between passes, I merely wet my hand and work the remaining lather into the stubble. My lather is very wet, much like straight razor lather. A good quality brush and an ability to fully use it is paramount here.
* 2 passes is almost always enough. I have in practice eliminated the earlier cleanup pass by incorporating free style strokes into the main passes. I just wet the beard area thorouhly and work in the remaining lather after the ATG pass to check for remaining stubble. The glide of the soap is enough to let me clean up anything left by using absolute zero pressure on the razor.
* Prep is the key. I have taken to gather loose lather from the puck and smear it into my beard area after loading the brush. This guarantees a good exfoliation and control of the previous shave as well as maintaining the right hydration level. With my stick I make the paste with my hands after applying the soap, partly to ensure that the soap is evenly distributed and partly to exfoliate and hydrate.I also keep the beard area well hydrated between shaves with a generic moisturizer.
I dedicate this 128 shave long endeavour to the enthusiasts who in the past and present times supply us with supreme tools to enable us to enjoy this rather odd hobby of ours. Their dedication makes our hobby so much sweeter!
I'm thinking of the Wilkinson production engineers and their collaboration with the Swedish steel producers in making these remarkable blades. I also include the creators of the Aristocrat TTO razors on both sides of the pond. Present day artisans that have made a difference in not only my shaving are Bernd Blos of Shavemac, father and son (Ken and Cody) team at Dark Holler together with Lee Sabini and of course Rudy Vey, when it comes to brushes. Lastly, but certainly not least, I think of Michelle Burns at Mystic Water for the soaps that made this long run and my shaving in general an exquisite pleasure.
If you are interested in blade longevity why don't you take a look in the Excalibur club thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/431416-Excalibur-Club-Blade-Longevity-DE-SE-and-Injector
This thread is a continuation from the thread where the Wilkie reached 100 shaves: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/445023-100-shaves-on-one-blade . Lots of good info there!
The Wilkie from tuck (one of two) in original wrapper with no shaves on it
Enjoy your shaves, I certainly do enjoy mine more than ever!
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