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Trumper- George F. Eucris Shave Soap

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This review concerns the new Eucris shave soap scent by Trumper.

George F. Trumper perfumers certainly needs no introduction to traditional wet shavers. They are a perennial favourite amongst devotees of traditional wet shaving techniques and their fragrances are quite popular. Their product line contains many items originally from the nineteenth century. It is that tradition that keeps many of us coming back. So when Trumper offers up a new edt fragrance or in this case a shave soap, I take particular notice. Especially when the soap is scented with one of my favourites from Trumper; Eucris. If I am not mistaken, Eucris along with GFT scent of a few years ago are the only new fragrances added to the Trumper shave lather range in decades.

I will not go into a great deal of detail about the scent of Eucris itself. I am not well versed in describing scent notes or their family but I would describe Eucris as a potent, quite masculine scent that exudes a powerful presence. The black currant top notes are the star of the show and I thoroughly enjoy the blast of this fragrance upon application. It should be noted the black currant component is not from the fruit but of the leaves of the currant bush.

The ingredients of this newest version of Trumper's soap is slightly different than their regular vegetable based soaps. It contains cocoa butter which I think is a very good thing. The use of cacao oil in shave sticks like QED Mocha Java is quite skin friendly and since cocoa butter is a saturated fat it lends itself well to shave soaps. I like it and find the lather from this soap to be much nicer than my old version of Trumper almond.

Price: This is one of the harder categories for me to rate with this soap. I paid $29.95 U.S. at QED for mine. I am okay with the price since I love the scent so much. However, it is not an inexpensive purchase and that may weigh in your decision.

Quality: Again, quite subjective but overall this is upscale all the way. As mentioned I really like the look of the Eucris packaging. It spans the product line with the exception of the hair tonic which is a different scent anyway. The Eucris packaging is distinguished by its black background with raised white lettering. I am unsure of exactly what style of decoration this is called but it is quite Elizabethan/Edwardian to me. I like it a lot. The packaging is nice, and the quality of the cake of soap is good as well. Better than my old almond version. I like the black wooden bowl it comes in but the labeling on the lid could have been nicer.

Scent: Now we come to the crux of it. I bought this soap for one reason only; the Eucris scent. I admit to being swept off my feet by Eucris the moment I smelled a small tester of it that Trumper generously sent me a number of years ago. I hadn't a clue about Trumper's fragrances so I secured a number of test samples from them and Eucris was amongst the lot. I immediately ordered a bottle of the edt. So how does the soap's scent translate?

This soap is pretty close to the edt version of the scent but not exact which I find common in cologne scented shave lathers. The violent process of soap making is not conducive to the gentle handling of fragrance. This one had a bit of "department store" smell to it when I first opened it up but it calmed down after the first two or three lathering's and if you sniff the soap rather than trying to inhale the scent, the nice black currant note comes shining through and the overall effect is quite nice. Did I mention I really like the scent of Eucris? I wish I knew what "family" of scents Eucris belongs to so it would be clearer what it is. Suffice it to say it is one of my favourites and it should be remembered when taking in my glowing comments about it.

Lather: Here I am going to get myself in trouble by saying either too much or too little. As I stated above, this version contains cocoa butter and is a bit different to the others in the line. I honestly cannot compare this soap to them because my other Trumper soap is an old version of almond. The only ingredients listed on the box of that version are; shaving soap base, and soap base. It is not a great soap in my opinion. I know that is heresy in Trumper circles but it is my experience with it. The Eucrcis version is better. At least with my water. I had a bit of trouble getting the hang of making a good lather with it and honestly, it is never going to equal AOS or Tabac but it is quite good for a veg soap. It is not as good as Provence Sante but is markedly better than other veg soaps like L'ome Durance. It gave a very good glide and the aftershave feel was superb which is a bonus when using stoutly scented shave lathers. I am more than satisfied with it.

Efficacy: Quite good. The overall result and effect of using the soap is nothing but positive for me. It is not one of those soaps that leaves you with a feeling that something is completely missing or just plain wrong. Trumper has done a great job.

Moisturising: This is always hard for me to judge since in my mind a soap lather is not made to moisturise but cleanse the skin. And in this case allow a super sharp razor blade to glide along your skin without damaging it too much. This one works in spades. Sometimes with certain lathers you get the feeling that unless you get the lather just so or glide the razor with just the right speed that irritation or a bit of the tinglies will ensue. This soap's use is effortless. By that I mean if you do a good job of lathering, and have a good blade, the skin feel afterward is superb. You don't really have to think about it. You just sense you are going to have a nice face feel after shaving. Effortless.

Overall I am quite happy with my purchase. It is not AOS lather so don't think you are going to find some Nirvana here. I do think Trumper and some other soaps are made to work in slightly softer water than I have and that may make a difference in your lather. Keep than in mind if your experience puts this at a higher rating than mine. I love the packaging, the scent, and the overall effect of this line from Trumper. I have to say they did their work well with Eucris shave soap. This one is a winner.

Regards, Todd

Discussion Thread

Latest reviews

Pros: Lather and scent
The Eucris shave soap has a strong, classic masculine scent that exudes a powerful presence. The scent is strong at first, but tones down to a very nice subtle fragrence that makes the shaving experience enjoyable.

I am okay with the price for two reasons; I enjoy the scent, and it produces a very good lather (without much effort).

Shaving products are very much YMMV, but I find this GFT soap an upscale product. It is well packaged. With my water I find it easy to lather. I wet the soap and let it sit for a few minutes, and then load up the brush. It has worked well with boar, horse-hair and even badger brushes. Then I whip up lather in my bowl. The lather offers good cushioning and is slick. I am more than satisfied with it.

The packaging, the scent, the lather and the overall effect of GFT Eucris are reasons I would rate this as a winner, and must try soap.
Price
4.00 star(s)
Scent
5.00 star(s)
Lather
4.00 star(s)
Quality
5.00 star(s)
Efficacy
4.00 star(s)
Moisturizing
4.00 star(s)
Pros: Fantastic scent and great looking bowl.
Cons: Lather disappears within moments after putting it on your face.
I received Eucris as a Christmas gift and tried it that morning. The scent is absolutely fantastic. The soap comes in a bowl that is very classy looking.

That first morning I was very very happy with this soap. So much so that I made a review of the product here on the B&B. Keep in mind that I was away visiting relatives when I received this soap and thus my first shave. Since then I have had a change of heart, deleted my initial review, and now make this review of this product.

When I came home is when the problems began. The lather that I was getting was just dismal. I did not have a problem loading the brush or even getting a lather, though it was suspicious in that it had lots of tiny bubbles. The moment that I put it on my face though, it began to immediately disappear. Fortunately, it leaves behind a good cushion so that one can proceed with the shave, but it just is not a very enjoyable experience, especially compared to the experience I get with my tin of Mike's Barber Shop.

Since those attempts I have done research and tried two different ways to lather. The last attempt was from mantic59 who said to take a wet brush and load it on a dry puck. The lather was definitely better, but still dissipated way too soon.

All of this is unfortunate because the scent is just classy. I so want to like this product, but the lather is to up to the level of a puck of Van der Hagen Luxury Soap.

I will continue to use this soap, but as part of a super lather. When it runs out, if Trumper's still has the same formula, I will not buy it.
Price
0.00 star(s)
Scent
5.00 star(s)
Lather
2.00 star(s)
Quality
3.00 star(s)
Efficacy
2.00 star(s)
Moisturizing
4.00 star(s)
Pros: Fragrance, slickness
Cons: Lather rapidly disappears
Having gone through one tube of the cream version of the Eucris and loving the scent, I thought I would give the soap a try, as previous reviews were mixed.

Regretfully, no matter what I try, even with my softened water, the resultant lather disappears before my eyes, and so it provides no cushion for use with a straight. The redeeming quality is that even as the visible lather is fading, it remains very slick and gives me a comfortable shave with a Feather AS-D2 and Feather blade. The fragrance is very good and lasting.

Floris seems to have done well without tallow in the No 89 and JF, as has Pre de Provence, all of which I use regularly, so what is the problem with the Trumpers? Better to stock up on DR Harris tallow soaps and buy the Eucris cologne, since the fragrance is best attribute of this reviewed soap.

Addendum: I began using this soap with the "Marco Method" and have had much better results with a thicker and longer-lasting creamy lather. It still breaks down faster than a tallow soap, but is much more satisfying to use this way. I will definitely order a refill of this now.
Price
2.00 star(s)
Scent
4.00 star(s)
Lather
0.00 star(s)
Quality
3.00 star(s)
Efficacy
4.00 star(s)
Moisturizing
3.00 star(s)

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Phog Allen
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