Talking Dremel Rotary Tools & Accessories For Razor Restoration

[Esox]

The idea of sanding razor blades to a mirror shine does not appeal to me. Too much like hard work
I bought a pack of felt wheels for the dremel and started polishing with the pastes I had left over (5 - 1 micron).
Results were amazing. Very shiny mirror finish with not a lot of effort.

If you plan on doing enough polishing to make it worth it, think about a bench setup and a large cotton buffing wheel. I use my bench grinder and a 6" wheel and it works very quickly. With care it does a very good job.

My Gillette NEW SC base and cap as I got them.



After a quick sand with 600 grit wet paper and on my wheel for less than 5 minutes with white rouge.



If I had a slower speed motor and used progressively finer rouges there would be more depth to the shine. Heat is your enemy.

I kind of suspected cutting acrylic and kirinite would be done slow due to it's tendency to melt.

Theres a trick when working with acrylic...

You can polish and even round the edges with a bit of acetone on a rag. It takes some time but the finished result is fantastic. If you want to speed it up, 600>1200>2000 grit wet paper and finish with acetone. Acetone will give acrylic an ultra smooth finish. It works because acetone melts plastics, just very slowly.

I'll look into the router Mike. Have a feeling it may be the wrong thing to use with Acrylic or Kirinite because of it's tendancy to melt if you don't take it easy. Plus Acrylic is brittle.
I could be totaly wrong about that of course.

Low speed = less heat. Less pressure = less heat. The same effect can be seen polishing steel on too high a speed too aggressively. Heat is your enemy.

 

[Somerled]

All points taken in. Didn't know about acetone for polishing Acrylic, good tip.
I have thought about a polishing wheel.

Slight problem is the only place I can put it is in the garage and it's full of junk, literaly, and it's coming into winter .
It's been in my head for a while to make a space to do this kind of thing.

Maybe this is the incentive I need to sort it out and do something usefull with the space.

 

[Esox]

All points taken in. Didn't know about acetone for polishing Acrylic, good tip.
I have thought about a polishing wheel.

Slight problem is the only place I can put it is in the garage and it's full of junk, literaly, and it's coming into winter .
It's been in my head for a while to make a space to do this kind of thing.

Maybe this is the incentive I need to sort it out and do something usefull with the space.

Space is always at a premium yeah lol. Once I set mine up I gave a friend that restores old Triumph and HD motorcycles my bar of red rouge. He picked up a 18"x18" steel roll around stand and mounted an electric motor and 8" wheel on it as his polishing station. When its not being used its just rolled out of the way, but its used a lot. Once you have it set up you might be surprised how often you'll find yourself standing in front of it lol.

I should have added. I keep a wire wheel on one side of my bench grinder so its a two stage set up. The friend that works on bikes has done the same.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Especially if using a Dremel haha.

A very important thing to remember when polishing with a Dremel, or any small wheel or stone, is to keep it moving on the surface. If you stop or over work a single spot you can end up with an uneven finish.

You have never steered me wrong on any of this stuff, Mike.

As for cutting scales out of almost any material, one of the best tools is a simple coping saw. The old school way before we had Dremels. They're almost as quick too, once you get the hang of it.

View attachment 928830

That very thin fine blade will let you cut accurately along the outside edge of a pencil line leaving enough material under that pencil line to sand and smooth. Once you've become good enough with one you'll be amazed at the details that can be very easily and quickly cut.

Using power tools for that kind of very fine work can be difficult and one slip and you'll be starting over.

Yes.

My coping saw is in transit. One of the guys in this thread has, when using the coping saw, wished for the Dremel scroll saw. I have no experience with any of this stuff, but am fine with trying a coping saw. Sometimes hand tools are the best tools.

If I was doing that kind of work all the time, I'd rough cut the material and then finish on a spindle sander. A miniature version of that would be putting the Dremel in a stand and using a drum sanding attachment like @Somerled suggested.

A shaper or router table for it is the perfect thing.

View attachment 928834

Dremel Rotary Tool Shaper/Router Table to Sand, Edge, Groove, and Slot Wood-231 - The Home Depot

Interesting. Amazon price is a bit better. Some of the reviews are very negative; a few reviews explain how to "fix" the problems (most of them) mentioned in the negative reviews.

Good advice from reviewers, right? Well, I don't actually know as I don't have the item.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

I want to do more of this. So, something to make it easier to cut out the shape of the scales before sanding is desirable.

Years ago I use to hang a lot of drywall. We started cutting receptacle openings and such with a drill bit at high speed, then the predecessor for the Dremel came out, I cant remember what they were called, and we started using it with a proper cutting bit. They have them for Dremels too.

Using that bit in a router table and moving the piece of material into the tool would make short work of cutting razor and knife scales. I've always found it easier to work the piece into the tool than the tool into the piece.

 

[Esox]

One of the guys in this thread has, when using the coping saw, wished for the Dremel scroll saw. I have no experience with any of this stuff, but am fine with trying a coping saw.

Scroll saws are a big step up yeah. I've been in wood shops where the band saw and scroll saw did 95% of the cutting work.

Interesting. Amazon price is a bit better. Some of the reviews are very negative; a few reviews explain how to "fix" the problems (most of them) mentioned in the negative reviews.

I'm sure its a bit fiddly and there might be better options but this is where the fun begins lol. When you buy something like that, factory made for Mr.Average User, it gives you a good base for an ideal. Then, you can make your own.

Making a router table isnt a big job. Understanding what you want and need it too do is the main hurdle. An inexpensive bench mounted setup like that will help you understand what you need from it.

I'd shop around a bit before I bought one, as I said I'm sure theres more than one flavor.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Just make sure when polishing a blade make sure your wheel is spinning the same way towards the edge from the spine, so if you go over the edge it dont grab and cause injury to yourself.
They are great tools used right I have the drill press, moto saw, flexi handle, Saw attachment,
And dont Make A Safety Shield For Dremel Rotary Tool a pill tub is not I repeat not for high speed impact
BUY ONE for your own eye safety but if you need any help please ask or shoot me a PM.

As I do use a Dremel a lot for restoring razors.

Love the safety tips. I'm sorry I posted the information (although I enjoyed watching him make it). Safety advice should be very solid!

When I made my balsa strops I needed to get some diamond paste.
Being in the UK it was looking like I would have to order what I needed from overseas to keep the price reasonable.
Then I found a guy in the UK who was selling off a range of diamond pastes in syringes, as a one off by the looks of it.
Ranged from 5 microns to 0.25 microns.
I only needed the 0.5 and 0.25 for the strops.
The rest - no ideas yet.
They were going cheap, so, snapped them up.

View attachment 928795

The idea of sanding razor blades to a mirror shine does not appeal to me. Too much like hard work
I bought a pack of felt wheels for the Dremel and started polishing with the pastes I had left over (5 - 1 micron).
Results were amazing. Very shiny mirror finish with not a lot of effort.

Recently made a set of scales with Kirinite.
I was going through the progression of wet and dry sandpapers to polish them up, but it was taking forever to do.
Tried the felt pad with 5 micron paste and, wow, instant shine.
Went down the progression of pastes and was very impressed with the results.

I know this method is probably wrong for some things.
I would be careful with some metals and platings.
But for most straights, I can't see much wrong in doing it like this.

Edit: The point Ian makes above is very important when using a Dremel on blades.
Check which way the bit is spinning before putting it on the blade.
You want it to spin from the spine down to the edge and not the other way.

I've seen (somewhere, but where?) the syringes like you bought offered. I believe Slash @Slash McCoy uses something similar for polishing, but I could be wrong. Many ways to skin a cat.

Thanks. Again, great information.

Link. Full face coverage. Good reviews. Have one in transit.

I am so happy with the advice and information I've received so far. I suspect it will be helpful to others, too.

I've been reading about the Dremel workstation drill press. Reviews are largely negative but some gentlemen on B&B seem to really like it. However, it appears to me that the small table top drill press sold by Harbor Freight is a better option; not much more money than the Dremel "drill press" (with a coupon from HF); great reviews.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

A router table that would raise and lower the tool for easier bit changes and depth setting would be very nice, but I cant seem to find one.

 

[Somerled]

Love the safety tips. I'm sorry I posted the information (although I enjoyed watching him make it). Safety advice should be very solid!




I've seen (somewhere, but where?) the syringes like you bought offered. I believe Slash @Slash McCoy uses something similar for polishing, but I could be wrong. Many ways to skin a cat.

Thanks. Again, great information.

Link. Full face coverage. Good reviews. Have one in transit.

I am so happy with the advice and information I've received so far. I suspect it will be helpful to others, too.

I've been reading about the Dremel workstation drill press. Reviews are largely negative but some gentlemen on B&B seem to really like it. However, it appears to me that the small table top drill press sold by Harbor Freight is a better option; not much more money than the Dremel "drill press" (with a coupon from HF); great reviews.

Happy shaves,

Jim

The main reason for the dremel holder/drill press for me was.
It can be used to hold the dremel tool when using the flex shaft thing - very handy.
It can be used to rotate the dremel and used as a grinding tool - could be usefull.
And, it can be used for a drill press - only needed for making holes for pins.

I only need it mainly for making scales on an occasion, so, it ticks my boxes for now at least.

Mike would have me kitting out a whole new power tool workshop, probably with a CNC machine, just to make a few scales now and again.

 

[Esox]

Mike would have me kitting out a whole new power tool workshop, probably with a CNC machine, just to make a few scales now and again.

Well, the CNC mill is an extra option, but who among us doesnt want one! lol

I dont like my 'work' to take any more time than necessary so I like the best tools for the job that do the work quickly and efficiently with the least amount of fuss and...work lol.

I couldnt get by without my polishing station, especially with the wire wheel on it. I have it mounted on one end of my bench and even the other day getting the snow blower ready I had to take a few bolts out. A quick pass with them over the wire wheel to clean them up and a quick shot of Fluid Film before reassembly.

I likely use that wire wheel more often than any other tool I own. Having it bench mounted is even easier. Its always there and ready to go, just flip the switch.

 

[Somerled]

Well, the CNC mill is an extra option, but who among us doesnt want one! lol

I dont like my 'work' to take any more time than necessary so I like the best tools for the job that do the work quickly and efficiently with the least amount of fuss and...work lol.

I couldnt get by without my polishing station, especially with the wire wheel on it. I have it mounted on one end of my bench and even the other day getting the snow blower ready I had to take a few bolts out. A quick pass with them over the wire wheel to clean them up and a quick shot of Fluid Film before reassembly.

I likely use that wire wheel more often than any other tool I own. Having it bench mounted is even easier. Its always there and ready to go, just flip the switch.

Finding it hard to visualise what you mean about the wire wheel.
Any pics?

 

[Esox]

Finding it hard to visualise what you mean about the wire wheel.
Any pics?

Wire wheel on one side and a cotton buffing wheel on the other.

There are different types of wire wheels too, and different materials of wire. Mine is the same as that above.

 

[Somerled]

Ahh, just goes to show how minds work.

I thought you meant.... LoL

 

[Esox]

Ahh, just goes to show how minds work.

I thought you meant.... LoL

View attachment 928862

Thats part of the pulley system, but the squirrels keep running away, the little buggers lol.

 

[Ice-Man]

Doug you would end up with rubber burns with that

 

[Ice-Man]

Thats part of the pulley system, but the squirrels keep running away the little buggers lol.

Hamsters are a better option

 

[Esox]

Hamsters are a better option

I tried them but they're not as agile running between the spokes and spin it too slowly lol.

 

[Tiny]

Nice thread here, currently I use my Dremel mostly to drill out antiquated flints out of vintage lighters.....I guess my next project or two could be razor and/or razor case refurbishing!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Using that bit in a router table and moving the piece of material into the tool would make short work of cutting razor and knife scales. I've always found it easier to work the piece into the tool than the tool into the piece.

Me, too.

Hence this.

This is great info. So the polishing compound itself is the abrasive agent? 've been using an abrasive Dremel bit with smooth metal polish like Flitz. Thanks for adding those charts above.

I think so, but I'm just learning about this stuff. I'm sure it can be done by hand; check the top post in this old thread, link.

What's considered the basics is highly variable. There are gentlemen using only hand tools (zero power, period), and those who say you need a lot of stuff just to make scales, link.

Me? I have no idea yet, but I'm learning stuff. I have only one razor in the restoration process. It's not finished, but I've made a lot of progress without anything more powerful than elbow grease and sandpaper. Next: scale making!

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

The different grades of rouge all have different abrasiveness levels and qualities. They all work on any metals but at different speeds like different grits of sandpaper.

I use only white because I'm not after the absolute best finish I can have. It also works very quickly on Brass, but doesnt give the same depth of finish.

If I did want the absolute best possible finish, I'd use the proper compound for the material or use different compounds in stages, which I have done before. Doing that gives the best depth of colour to all materials but especially Brass. When done properly its almost like you can look into the Brass itself but thats also dependent on the metallurgic quality of the material being finished.