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Talking Dremel Rotary Tools & Accessories For Razor Restoration

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
By digging around I've finally found my old Dremel tool. I was afraid my wife might have thrown it away, but she did not. Nor did I.

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Mine is a pretty old Dremel MultiPro Model 395TS. I was glad to discover it's variable speed, 5K-35K RPM. It looks just like the picture above (which I borrowed from eBay where one is offered).

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It also has a plastic box in much better shape than the one pictured above (from eBay).

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It has a flexible shaft attachment but not the part labeled Dremel in the photo above (from eBay).

There are only a few accessories and implements remaining in the box. Whether it has the various parts it should have to mount accessories and parts I really don't know. There is a little grinder thingy in the Dremel now.

I can recall using the tool years ago, but very, very little. Frankly, I'm about as handy as a fish, and never quite figured out exactly how to use this tool, and was a bit scared of using it incorrectly. Now, of course, there are videos explaining how to use anything, so I know I can figure it out and be safe.

My brother probably used the tool a little bit when he lived with us towards the end of his life. I'm sure he didn't use it much.

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I plugged it in to see if it works. It works.

I read various reviews of this Dremel model. Most people really like it. Most like it better than the newer models from what I found. Not that I know anything about the Dremel but I don't much see any need to buy a newer model since this one works and has good reviews, but I could be wrong.

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I ordered on eBay the blue device shown above so I can hold the Dremel in a vise. It seems prudent to me to not hold the tool and the razor at the same time, but to have something solid to hold the Dremel. This is a 3D printed extra hand.

If you've waded though everything I've written you know I don't know jack about the Dremel. I see available all sorts of giant accessory kits and stuff you can buy for the Dremel, but I'm not sure what to acquire.

My plan is to use this device for restoring old straight razors and maybe for putting a new knot in the handle of the Thater brush I own which had its boar knot break in half.

I'm also hoping people who use their Dremel for razor related/shaving related uses will offer suggestions, possibilities, hints, tips, tricks, etc. for Dremel and restoration newbies like me.

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim
 
I use mine a lot when restoring razors.
It's a current model and there's loads of attachments available for it.

I use the flexable shaft pretty much all the time and bought packs of these
dremelfelt.jpg
dremel wire.jpg


Felt pads are great for polishing and the wire brushes make short work of rust patches and marks.

Both were very cheap so don't have to worry too much when they don't last long.
There seems to be a market for cheap alternative accessories for the dremel.
Just need to do your homework to make sure what your buying is suitable and will do what you want.

For mine this is available (think it's suitable for many other versions as well)

Edit: If your going to use the dremel to drill pinholes in scales you'll need 1.5 mm drill bits. My dremel didn't have the collets to go to that diameter. There are collet kits available or you can get a multi chuck accessory. You need to check if the adjustable chuck fits your dremel though.
 
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^^^^ This. And maybe a few sanding drums for scale or brush work.

Forgot about sanding drums.

dremeldrum.jpg


You can get kits with different grits and drum sizes.
Importantly they nearly all come with mandrels.
Then you don't need to worry if you have them with the parts that you have left in your dremel tool box.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I've ordered the felt pad kit, the wire brushes (in stainless), and the sanding kit. All from eBay vendors.

Thanks, gentlemen, and happy shaves,

Jim
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
This or something similar might be a good little project. The comments are worth reading, too.


On the Amazon page about this chuck there's a good bit of discussion about problems some people have with it (in the Q&A section). One of the comments suggests watching this video; combined with some of the answers given in writing, it answers a number of questions.


Happy shaves,

Jim
 
This or something similar might be a good little project. The comments are worth reading, too.


On the Amazon page about this chuck there's a good bit of discussion about problems some people have with it (in the Q&A section). One of the comments suggests watching this video; combined with some of the answers given in writing, it answers a number of questions.


Happy shaves,

Jim

Thanks for that Jim.
Interesting video about the chuck.

I only ordered my chuck a couple of days ago, should arrive early next week.
My dremel already has a EZ twist nose cap, the chuck should make it even easier to change bits and do away with the need for collets.
 
Hey Jim! I've used the Dremel (generic one from Harbor Freight) to restore an old Gillette recently. While I like the result, Next time I'll not use such an abrasive fitting to start with. I'll go more mild. I got some felt wheels attached to metal rods that fit into the Dremel which I'll try next time. I need to smooth out the brass from my overkill job. I think these will be less abrasive. I'll attach a pic so you can see what I mean about my first pass that was too abrasive (the mounted plate, not the other which I think I did better).
20181109_181703.jpg


I'll be following this thread as I'm curious about it too.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Hey Jim! I've used the Dremel (generic one from Harbor Freight) to restore an old Gillette recently. While I like the result, Next time I'll not use such an abrasive fitting to start with. I'll go more mild. I got some felt wheels attached to metal rods that fit into the Dremel which I'll try next time. I need to smooth out the brass from my overkill job. I think these will be less abrasive. I'll attach a pic so you can see what I mean about my first pass that was too abrasive (the mounted plate, not the other which I think I did better).View attachment 928719

I'll be following this thread as I'm curious about it too.

I've done a lot of safety razors (a lot being a lot for me) with mostly just microfiber cloths and Flitz. Another good hand tool is the brass toothbrush sold for cleaning guns.

I read a post - in this thread - a few minutes ago advising that anyone learning this stuff begin with hand tools as opposed to anything powered. I did it that way because I don't have a shop full of tools and have little knowledge and experience with most of the ones I have.

It's easy to screw things up with power tools (and I'll probably learn more about that than I'd like). For me, slow and safe sounds like a good plan. I mean safe for me and safe for the razor.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
I hear ya! I skipped right to the power tools because that's just my nature. I think the less abrasive rotational bits will be the sweet spot..
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Polishing compound for the Dremel.

Polishing Compounds.Chart..png


Link to the chart (and other information) on polishes and polishing.

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Sold on Amazon and elsewhere in various sizes - 1 oz, 4 oz, etc. - this is one link.

Polish Bar Uses..png

That's from the Amazon vendor's information about the bars pictured. These are hard bars. You load your Dremel's spinning polishing pad off the bar, lightly. Use a different polishing pad for each color.

I'm sure there's much more to this, but that's what I've learned about it so far. A shout out to Mike
@Esox for teaching me enough about polishing to get me in real trouble.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Just make sure when polishing a blade make sure your wheel is spinning the same way towards the edge from the spine, so if you go over the edge it dont grab and cause injury to yourself.
They are great tools used right I have the drill press, moto saw, flexi handle, Saw attachment,
And dont Make A Safety Shield For Dremel Rotary Tool a pill tub is not I repeat not for high speed impact
BUY ONE for your own eye safety but if you need any help please ask or shoot me a PM.

As I do use a Dremel a lot for restoring razors.
 
When I made my balsa strops I needed to get some diamond paste.
Being in the UK it was looking like I would have to order what I needed from overseas to keep the price reasonable.
Then I found a guy in the UK who was selling off a range of diamond pastes in syringes, as a one off by the looks of it.
Ranged from 5 microns to 0.25 microns.
I only needed the 0.5 and 0.25 for the strops.
The rest - no ideas yet.
They were going cheap, so, snapped them up.

Lappaste.JPG


The idea of sanding razor blades to a mirror shine does not appeal to me. Too much like hard work :001_unsur
I bought a pack of felt wheels for the dremel and started polishing with the pastes I had left over (5 - 1 micron).
Results were amazing. Very shiny mirror finish with not a lot of effort.

Recently made a set of scales with Kirinite.
I was going through the progression of wet and dry sandpapers to polish them up, but it was taking forver to do.
Tried the felt pad with 5 micron paste and, wow, instant shine.
Went down the progression of pastes and was very impressed with the results.

I know this method is probably wrong for some things.
I would be carefull with some metals and platings.
But for most straights, I can't see much wrong in doing it like this.

Edit: The point Ian makes above is very important when using a dremel on blades.
Check which way the bit is spinning before putting it on the blade.
You want it to spin from the spine down to the edge and not the other way.
 
Just make sure when polishing a blade make sure your wheel is spinning the same way towards the edge from the spine, so if you go over the edge it dont grab and cause injury to yourself.
They are great tools used right I have the drill press, moto saw, flexi handle, Saw attachment,
And dont Make A Safety Shield For Dremel Rotary Tool a pill tub is not I repeat not for high speed impact
BUY ONE for your own eye safety but if you need any help please ask or shoot me a PM.

As I do use a Dremel a lot for restoring razors.

Hi Ian. I'm thinking about getting a dremel moto saw to make cutting out scales easier.
How do you find the tool? Would it be suitable for cutting Kirinite?
 
This is great info. So the polishing compound itself is the abrasive agent? I've been using an abrasive Dremel bit with smooth metal polish like Flitz. Thanks for adding those charts above.
 
Hi Ian. I'm thinking about getting a dremel moto saw to make cutting out scales easier.
How do you find the tool? Would it be suitable for cutting Kirinite?

Hi mate I use it for cutting wood, bone, horn, Kirinite, and Acrylic Perspex, but the latter 2 go slow with the blade as they get hot and the Plastic starts to melt but they do a fantastic job once you get used to using it
 
Hi mate I use it for cutting wood, bone, horn, Kirinite, and Acrylic Perspex, but the latter 2 go slow with the blade as they get hot and the Plastic starts to melt but they do a fantastic job once you get used to using it

Brilliant! Just what I wanted to hear.
I kind of suspected cutting acrylic and kirinite would be done slow due to it's tendency to melt.

Now all I need is for Amazon to drop the price for Black Friday.
 
When I made my balsa strops I needed to get some diamond paste.
Being in the UK it was looking like I would have to order what I needed from overseas to keep the price reasonable.
Then I found a guy in the UK who was selling off a range of diamond pastes in syringes, as a one off by the looks of it.
Ranged from 5 microns to 0.25 microns.
I only needed the 0.5 and 0.25 for the strops.
The rest - no ideas yet.
They were going cheap, so, snapped them up.

View attachment 928795

The idea of sanding razor blades to a mirror shine does not appeal to me. Too much like hard work :001_unsur
I bought a pack of felt wheels for the dremel and started polishing with the pastes I had left over (5 - 1 micron).
Results were amazing. Very shiny mirror finish with not a lot of effort.

Recently made a set of scales with Kirinite.
I was going through the progression of wet and dry sandpapers to polish them up, but it was taking forver to do.
Tried the felt pad with 5 micron paste and, wow, instant shine.
Went down the progression of pastes and was very impressed with the results.

I know this method is probably wrong for some things.
I would be carefull with some metals and platings.
But for most straights, I can't see much wrong in doing it like this.

Edit: The point Ian makes above is very important when using a dremel on blades.
Check which way the bit is spinning before putting it on the blade.
You want it to spin from the spine down to the edge and not the other way.


Looks like you bought the ones I did aswell from a guy in the uk lol..
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
A shout out to Mike
@Esox for teaching me enough about polishing to get me in real trouble.

Especially if using a Dremel haha.

A very important thing to remember when polishing with a Dremel, or any small wheel or stone, is to keep it moving on the surface. If you stop or over work a single spot you can end up with an uneven finish.

As for cutting scales out of almost any material, one of the best tools is a simple coping saw. The old school way before we had Dremels. They're almost as quick too, once you get the hang of it.

99847-03-1000.jpg



That very thin fine blade will let you cut accurately along the outside edge of a pencil line leaving enough material under that pencil line to sand and smooth. Once you've become good enough with one you'll be amazed at the details that can be very easily and quickly cut.

Using power tools for that kind of very fine work can be difficult and one slip and you'll be starting over. If I was doing that kind of work all the time, I'd rough cut the material and then finish on a spindle sander. A miniature version of that would be putting the Dremel in a stand and using a drum sanding attachment like @Somerled suggested.

A shaper or router table for it is the perfect thing.

dremel-rotary-tool-parts-attachments-231-64_1000.jpg


Dremel Rotary Tool Shaper/Router Table to Sand, Edge, Groove, and Slot Wood-231 - The Home Depot
 
Especially if using a Dremel haha.

A very important thing to remember when polishing with a Dremel, or any small wheel or stone, is to keep it moving on the surface. If you stop or over work a single spot you can end up with an uneven finish.

As for cutting scales out of almost any material, one of the best tools is a simple coping saw. The old school way before we had Dremels. They're almost as quick too, once you get the hang of it.

View attachment 928830


That very thin fine blade will let you cut accurately along the outside edge of a pencil line leaving enough material under that pencil line to sand and smooth. Once you've become good enough with one you'll be amazed at the details that can be very easily and quickly cut.

Using power tools for that kind of very fine work can be difficult and one slip and you'll be starting over. If I was doing that kind of work all the time, I'd rough cut the material and then finish on a spindle sander. A miniature version of that would be putting the Dremel in a stand and using a drum sanding attachment like @Somerled suggested.

A shaper or router table for it is the perfect thing.

View attachment 928834

Dremel Rotary Tool Shaper/Router Table to Sand, Edge, Groove, and Slot Wood-231 - The Home Depot

I bought a hand coping saw to make my first set of scales using kirinite.
Not sure whether I was using the wrong blade or not, but, I found cutting the kirinite to be a real PITA.
Ended up just cutting it in half and sanding them into shape. Which took a while.

I want to do more of this. So, something to make it easier to cut out the shape of the scales before sanding is desirable.

I'll look into the router Mike. Have a feeling it may be the wrong thing to use with Acrylic or Kirinite because of it's tendancy to melt if you don't take it easy. Plus Acrylic is brittle.
I could be totaly wrong about that of course. :001_rolle
 
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