It's been a while since I've posted on B&B, but my journey into shaving with a DE razor has been a long (yet, oddly enjoyable) 6 months of pain and discomfort. Before you go thinking I'm a lunatic for "enjoying" pain and discomfort, I'll clarify by saying that it was the journey of learning itself which was enjoyable - the pain I could have done without.
For the six months I have shaved with a DE razor, 5 1/2 of them were burdened with the discomfort of chronic razorburn (particularly around the neck). It took me that long to a) experiment with possibly every combination of shaving item/technique; b) to save up enough money TO experiment with possible every combination of shaving item; and c) to sift through the thousands of forum posts around the net regarding "cures" for razor burn. To save some newbies from having to go through this process (I hope), I wish to pass on the most valuable things I've learned that have led me to 2 weeks of 100% razor burn free shaves (trust me - it feels like a lifetime).
When I initially started DE shaving, I used a Merkur Classic. It's common knowledge that this razor is generally considered a wise "starting" razor, along with others such as the 34c, EJ R89, and on and on. If you have skin that is as sensitive as mine, DO NOT start with one of these razors. The leap from cartridge/disposable shaving to DE shaving will cause you to have extreme discomfort, as your angle will most likely be off for the first, oh, several weeks. I find that with extremely sensitive skin like mine, I'm only able to handle razors with very small blade gaps, and blade angles which are almost perpendicular to the safety bar. For this reason, very mild razors are key for preventing razor burn (of course, ymmv). My suggestions would be a Weishi 9306 or Vintage Gillette Tech.
With the Weishi, not all Weishi's are the same. The different materials will cause them to be different weights. I find that the heavier the razor, the easier it is to use "no pressure" (MAJOR cause of razor burn is using pressure, even the slightest bit). Therefore, I would recommend the Weishi 9306 Gold, as this is the heaviest of the bunch weighing 16 grams more than a Merkur Classic. Another great advantage of the Weishi is that your technique can be "sloppy" without the risk of nicking yourself since it is so mild which makes it great for beginners.
Now, some will argue with my next suggestion however, I personally have found that with the remaining suggestions I have to offer, you will find there to be no difference in whether or not you get razor burn based on whether you use "regular" shaving cream/soap, or "sensitive" shaving cream/soap (but, you must use shaving cream/soap - none of that canned goo crap). I personally use whichever shaving cream I like the scent of the most, along with one other factor - it must lather easily, as some shaving creams are very time consuming to build a decent lather. So by all means, don't let sensitive skin limit which shaving cream you use.
Some other simple suggestions are to ensure you are shaving with the grain on your first pass, and are using enough water in your lather. If your lather starts to fluff off, or it dries even the slightest, your risking yourself a bad case of razor burn. It's not the shaving cream which stops the razor burn - its the water on your skin. The shaving cream simply holds the water close to your face (which is why you should also apply shaving cream over a wet face). Furthermore, pre-shave prep is key to preventing razor burn. You want to soften your beard and open your pores as much as possible before you shave. Thus, I'd recommend taking a nice HOT shower, letting your mirror fog up, before shaving. This will help soften your beard. If you can't shower due to time or other constraints, you must still somehow soften your whiskers or your just asking for razor burn. Therefore, take a HOT (but not steaming hot) towel and place it over your beard. You may have to use several (maybe three) hot towels as they lose their heat quickly. Let them soften your whiskers for about 10 minutes. If you can afford it, its also highly recommended to place some shave lather over your beard and then a hot towel on top of that so the lather can start softening your beard as well (but then wipe off, and re-lather before you start shaving).
Above, you will find the general recommendations that are scattered throughout the net regarding how to prevent razor burn. Although I have tried other methods (e.g., products like "tend skin", or "cold" shaving), the above are the only ones which ever reduced my razor burn. However, you may have noticed I used the word "reduced". The reasoning is that although the above methods did work, I would still get chronic irritation on my neck in an area.
Until two weeks ago, I had always seen and read about preshave oils. I found that the general response from the community was a pathetic "meh". People would constantly say that they don't really notice a difference between using it and not, or that they "think" they see a difference but weren't really sure. These responses made me skeptical of ever purchasing one or even making one. However, after 5 months of not being able to get a decent shave (and being forced to shave for work) I was willing to try anything. So for two weeks I did a whole bunch of research and experimentation with different oils, and different techniques of how I would apply them (e.g., before shaving, after shaving, etc). In the end of it all, I have FINALLY found the solution/concoction that has given me two entire weeks of 100% irritation free shaves! The "secret" I have found is to combine a solution in the ratio of 1:1 of sweet almond oil, and jojoba oil. Apply this oil before you shower/use a hot towel, then again just before you are about to apply your lather for your first pass. Ever since I used this method, I have had amazing shaves and have never had a better looking neck! It was amazing to finally see a hairless neck with no red spots - something I haven't seen in many years. These two oils do an amazing job of hydrating your skin, AND your hair as they are able to penetrate the hairs outer "shell", something many other oils/moisturizers cannot do. This process helps to really soften that stubble and is the key to my irritation free shaves.
I know this has been a long post, but if you were lucky enough to read to the end I think you will be in for a real treat if you try out my not so secret recipe to a preshave oil. With this pre-shave oil and the other suggestions I feel confident in saying that a majority of irritation sufferers will be "cured". Additionally, the long read is nothing compared to the >5 months I spent toying around to find my irritation cure.
Hope this helps some of you!
Happy New Year!
For the six months I have shaved with a DE razor, 5 1/2 of them were burdened with the discomfort of chronic razorburn (particularly around the neck). It took me that long to a) experiment with possibly every combination of shaving item/technique; b) to save up enough money TO experiment with possible every combination of shaving item; and c) to sift through the thousands of forum posts around the net regarding "cures" for razor burn. To save some newbies from having to go through this process (I hope), I wish to pass on the most valuable things I've learned that have led me to 2 weeks of 100% razor burn free shaves (trust me - it feels like a lifetime).
When I initially started DE shaving, I used a Merkur Classic. It's common knowledge that this razor is generally considered a wise "starting" razor, along with others such as the 34c, EJ R89, and on and on. If you have skin that is as sensitive as mine, DO NOT start with one of these razors. The leap from cartridge/disposable shaving to DE shaving will cause you to have extreme discomfort, as your angle will most likely be off for the first, oh, several weeks. I find that with extremely sensitive skin like mine, I'm only able to handle razors with very small blade gaps, and blade angles which are almost perpendicular to the safety bar. For this reason, very mild razors are key for preventing razor burn (of course, ymmv). My suggestions would be a Weishi 9306 or Vintage Gillette Tech.
With the Weishi, not all Weishi's are the same. The different materials will cause them to be different weights. I find that the heavier the razor, the easier it is to use "no pressure" (MAJOR cause of razor burn is using pressure, even the slightest bit). Therefore, I would recommend the Weishi 9306 Gold, as this is the heaviest of the bunch weighing 16 grams more than a Merkur Classic. Another great advantage of the Weishi is that your technique can be "sloppy" without the risk of nicking yourself since it is so mild which makes it great for beginners.
Now, some will argue with my next suggestion however, I personally have found that with the remaining suggestions I have to offer, you will find there to be no difference in whether or not you get razor burn based on whether you use "regular" shaving cream/soap, or "sensitive" shaving cream/soap (but, you must use shaving cream/soap - none of that canned goo crap). I personally use whichever shaving cream I like the scent of the most, along with one other factor - it must lather easily, as some shaving creams are very time consuming to build a decent lather. So by all means, don't let sensitive skin limit which shaving cream you use.
Some other simple suggestions are to ensure you are shaving with the grain on your first pass, and are using enough water in your lather. If your lather starts to fluff off, or it dries even the slightest, your risking yourself a bad case of razor burn. It's not the shaving cream which stops the razor burn - its the water on your skin. The shaving cream simply holds the water close to your face (which is why you should also apply shaving cream over a wet face). Furthermore, pre-shave prep is key to preventing razor burn. You want to soften your beard and open your pores as much as possible before you shave. Thus, I'd recommend taking a nice HOT shower, letting your mirror fog up, before shaving. This will help soften your beard. If you can't shower due to time or other constraints, you must still somehow soften your whiskers or your just asking for razor burn. Therefore, take a HOT (but not steaming hot) towel and place it over your beard. You may have to use several (maybe three) hot towels as they lose their heat quickly. Let them soften your whiskers for about 10 minutes. If you can afford it, its also highly recommended to place some shave lather over your beard and then a hot towel on top of that so the lather can start softening your beard as well (but then wipe off, and re-lather before you start shaving).
Above, you will find the general recommendations that are scattered throughout the net regarding how to prevent razor burn. Although I have tried other methods (e.g., products like "tend skin", or "cold" shaving), the above are the only ones which ever reduced my razor burn. However, you may have noticed I used the word "reduced". The reasoning is that although the above methods did work, I would still get chronic irritation on my neck in an area.
Until two weeks ago, I had always seen and read about preshave oils. I found that the general response from the community was a pathetic "meh". People would constantly say that they don't really notice a difference between using it and not, or that they "think" they see a difference but weren't really sure. These responses made me skeptical of ever purchasing one or even making one. However, after 5 months of not being able to get a decent shave (and being forced to shave for work) I was willing to try anything. So for two weeks I did a whole bunch of research and experimentation with different oils, and different techniques of how I would apply them (e.g., before shaving, after shaving, etc). In the end of it all, I have FINALLY found the solution/concoction that has given me two entire weeks of 100% irritation free shaves! The "secret" I have found is to combine a solution in the ratio of 1:1 of sweet almond oil, and jojoba oil. Apply this oil before you shower/use a hot towel, then again just before you are about to apply your lather for your first pass. Ever since I used this method, I have had amazing shaves and have never had a better looking neck! It was amazing to finally see a hairless neck with no red spots - something I haven't seen in many years. These two oils do an amazing job of hydrating your skin, AND your hair as they are able to penetrate the hairs outer "shell", something many other oils/moisturizers cannot do. This process helps to really soften that stubble and is the key to my irritation free shaves.
I know this has been a long post, but if you were lucky enough to read to the end I think you will be in for a real treat if you try out my not so secret recipe to a preshave oil. With this pre-shave oil and the other suggestions I feel confident in saying that a majority of irritation sufferers will be "cured". Additionally, the long read is nothing compared to the >5 months I spent toying around to find my irritation cure.
Hope this helps some of you!
Happy New Year!
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