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For All Those Who Suffer From Razor Burn

It's been a while since I've posted on B&B, but my journey into shaving with a DE razor has been a long (yet, oddly enjoyable) 6 months of pain and discomfort. Before you go thinking I'm a lunatic for "enjoying" pain and discomfort, I'll clarify by saying that it was the journey of learning itself which was enjoyable - the pain I could have done without.

For the six months I have shaved with a DE razor, 5 1/2 of them were burdened with the discomfort of chronic razorburn (particularly around the neck). It took me that long to a) experiment with possibly every combination of shaving item/technique; b) to save up enough money TO experiment with possible every combination of shaving item; and c) to sift through the thousands of forum posts around the net regarding "cures" for razor burn. To save some newbies from having to go through this process (I hope), I wish to pass on the most valuable things I've learned that have led me to 2 weeks of 100% razor burn free shaves (trust me - it feels like a lifetime).

When I initially started DE shaving, I used a Merkur Classic. It's common knowledge that this razor is generally considered a wise "starting" razor, along with others such as the 34c, EJ R89, and on and on. If you have skin that is as sensitive as mine, DO NOT start with one of these razors. The leap from cartridge/disposable shaving to DE shaving will cause you to have extreme discomfort, as your angle will most likely be off for the first, oh, several weeks. I find that with extremely sensitive skin like mine, I'm only able to handle razors with very small blade gaps, and blade angles which are almost perpendicular to the safety bar. For this reason, very mild razors are key for preventing razor burn (of course, ymmv). My suggestions would be a Weishi 9306 or Vintage Gillette Tech.

With the Weishi, not all Weishi's are the same. The different materials will cause them to be different weights. I find that the heavier the razor, the easier it is to use "no pressure" (MAJOR cause of razor burn is using pressure, even the slightest bit). Therefore, I would recommend the Weishi 9306 Gold, as this is the heaviest of the bunch weighing 16 grams more than a Merkur Classic. Another great advantage of the Weishi is that your technique can be "sloppy" without the risk of nicking yourself since it is so mild which makes it great for beginners.

Now, some will argue with my next suggestion however, I personally have found that with the remaining suggestions I have to offer, you will find there to be no difference in whether or not you get razor burn based on whether you use "regular" shaving cream/soap, or "sensitive" shaving cream/soap (but, you must use shaving cream/soap - none of that canned goo crap). I personally use whichever shaving cream I like the scent of the most, along with one other factor - it must lather easily, as some shaving creams are very time consuming to build a decent lather. So by all means, don't let sensitive skin limit which shaving cream you use.

Some other simple suggestions are to ensure you are shaving with the grain on your first pass, and are using enough water in your lather. If your lather starts to fluff off, or it dries even the slightest, your risking yourself a bad case of razor burn. It's not the shaving cream which stops the razor burn - its the water on your skin. The shaving cream simply holds the water close to your face (which is why you should also apply shaving cream over a wet face). Furthermore, pre-shave prep is key to preventing razor burn. You want to soften your beard and open your pores as much as possible before you shave. Thus, I'd recommend taking a nice HOT shower, letting your mirror fog up, before shaving. This will help soften your beard. If you can't shower due to time or other constraints, you must still somehow soften your whiskers or your just asking for razor burn. Therefore, take a HOT (but not steaming hot) towel and place it over your beard. You may have to use several (maybe three) hot towels as they lose their heat quickly. Let them soften your whiskers for about 10 minutes. If you can afford it, its also highly recommended to place some shave lather over your beard and then a hot towel on top of that so the lather can start softening your beard as well (but then wipe off, and re-lather before you start shaving).

Above, you will find the general recommendations that are scattered throughout the net regarding how to prevent razor burn. Although I have tried other methods (e.g., products like "tend skin", or "cold" shaving), the above are the only ones which ever reduced my razor burn. However, you may have noticed I used the word "reduced". The reasoning is that although the above methods did work, I would still get chronic irritation on my neck in an area.

Until two weeks ago, I had always seen and read about preshave oils. I found that the general response from the community was a pathetic "meh". People would constantly say that they don't really notice a difference between using it and not, or that they "think" they see a difference but weren't really sure. These responses made me skeptical of ever purchasing one or even making one. However, after 5 months of not being able to get a decent shave (and being forced to shave for work) I was willing to try anything. So for two weeks I did a whole bunch of research and experimentation with different oils, and different techniques of how I would apply them (e.g., before shaving, after shaving, etc). In the end of it all, I have FINALLY found the solution/concoction that has given me two entire weeks of 100% irritation free shaves! The "secret" I have found is to combine a solution in the ratio of 1:1 of sweet almond oil, and jojoba oil. Apply this oil before you shower/use a hot towel, then again just before you are about to apply your lather for your first pass. Ever since I used this method, I have had amazing shaves and have never had a better looking neck! It was amazing to finally see a hairless neck with no red spots - something I haven't seen in many years. These two oils do an amazing job of hydrating your skin, AND your hair as they are able to penetrate the hairs outer "shell", something many other oils/moisturizers cannot do. This process helps to really soften that stubble and is the key to my irritation free shaves.

I know this has been a long post, but if you were lucky enough to read to the end I think you will be in for a real treat if you try out my not so secret recipe to a preshave oil. With this pre-shave oil and the other suggestions I feel confident in saying that a majority of irritation sufferers will be "cured":001_tongu. Additionally, the long read is nothing compared to the >5 months I spent toying around to find my irritation cure.

Hope this helps some of you!

Happy New Year!
 
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I am glad you have found your perfect method. This is almost exactly how I shave every day. The only difference is I just use the cheap preshave oil from walmart called shave secret. This has worked great for me from the start. I have always used it with me DE so I can't say if it is helping my shave, but I am not willing to stop using it to find out.
 
Haha, well if it works, I wouldn't stop either! I know I'm sure as heck not stopping!

Cheers!
 
Or just not shave with soap, and instead use an aloe-based gel. Why make shaving more complicated than it really has to be?
 
Or just not shave with soap, and instead use an aloe-based gel. Why make shaving more complicated than it really has to be?

touche

haven't tried that personally, but as a said - I don't find the soap/creme to make a difference. So aloe-based gels may very well work! But outta curiosity, you don't mean like an after sun lotion right? Because that stuff almost instantly absorbs into my skin!
 
Nooo, nothing like some nasty and greasy sun tan lotion. What I use is comprised mostly of aloe vera, with a few more plant extracts thrown in for good measure. It does absorb instantly into the skin of course, which makes my skin so absurdly soft it's almost rubbery afterwards.
 
It looks like your doing a good job of moving toward enjoying a burn free DE shave!

I was confused by a couple things.

Is your skin only sensitive to the friction caused by shaving but not by the creams, soaps or oils? If you have generally sensitive skin I would think what product you put on your face could have a big effect on skin reaction. If you have a hot shower to open your pours then all the chemicals & fragrances from the cream/soap will go right into your skin won't it?

I know you mainly want to document what worked for you to help others but I might have a suggestion that sounds out there.

I know many would think a mild razor and mild blade(not sure which blade you use) would be a good combo for a very sensitive skin but I would suggest for some people to try the exact opposite. You want to have the least amount of friction on your skin as you can right? If you use an aggressive razor with very sharp blades then you could cut one or more passes off your shave and the less time you're dragging a blade against your skin the better right?

The best low cost way to try this would probably be a OC Fatip loaded with a Feather blade and cold water to make your skin as tight of a surface as possible. While Caste Forbes is the smoothest lather I've tired I think Speick adds a good layer of protection for the cost.

As for the preshave oils, I tried a couple in the past but go ahead and add me to the "meh" group for that product.
 
Glad to hear you found what works for you! I too have found pre-shave oil to help eliminate razor burn, so I guess it definitely falls into the YMMV category. I was just about to mix up some more tonight, I will try your 1:1 A/J (plus a little glycerin) and give it a try. My neck has also been my biggest problem, however I have gotten to where I can go ATG over most of it with little issue.
 
Very good post. I'm glad as well you found your solution. I'm still looking for mine and I'm 4 1/2 years in with straight razors. The left side if my neck is just impossible no matter what I do other than my Gillette flare tip with a feather and a very light touch so long as the stars are aligned that day. It gets red even if I rub it with my hand a little to hard win it has stubble in that one small spot.
Just before reading this I was thinking about revisiting oils. I think I'll give your recipe a try it can't hurt after all.
Thanks for posting.
 
Good post. I too find that a milder razor will allow for a little looser technique and also helps minimize razor burn. With an aggressive razor you really have to have your technique dead on if your skin is the slightest bit sensitive.
 
"Sensitive skin" is essentially allergic to one or more chemicals.

"Razor burn" occurs when you press to hard with the razor.

"Aggressive" razors are efficient (fewer passes to achieve BBS) and therefore less likely to cause razor burn than "Mild" razor...so long as you don't press too hard.

Shave every day and you'll build up callus which will make your shaving easier over time.

Use only high-quality face and shaving soaps. Most generic brands contain detergents that remove essential oils from the skin, i.e., facial skin that is "sensitive" to detergents, and make shaving harder over time.

"Pre-shave oil" doesn't add any slickness necessary to a smooth shave to what a good-quality shave soap will provide, and it can inhibit beard hydration if applied too early, which can yield a harsh shave. It won't necessarily ruin a shave but can't help one either.
 
"Sensitive skin" is essentially allergic to one or more chemicals.

"Razor burn" occurs when you press to hard with the razor.

"Aggressive" razors are efficient (fewer passes to achieve BBS) and therefore less likely to cause razor burn than "Mild" razor...so long as you don't press too hard.

Shave every day and you'll build up callus which will make your shaving easier over time.

Use only high-quality face and shaving soaps. Most generic brands contain detergents that remove essential oils from the skin, i.e., facial skin that is "sensitive" to detergents, and make shaving harder over time.

"Pre-shave oil" doesn't add any slickness necessary to a smooth shave to what a good-quality shave soap will provide, and it can inhibit beard hydration if applied too early, which can yield a harsh shave. It won't necessarily ruin a shave but can't help one either.

I don't doubt what you say but I find I'm much more apt to get irritation in my sensitive area with an aggressive razor. Unless I use extreme care I'll get minor razor burn in one spot with aggressive razors every single time. On the other hand, I can make 5 passes over the same area with a less aggressive razor with no razor burn at all. This has just been my experience so far.
 
Nice write up. I usually use proraso pre and post, but will give you're homemade recipe a try. I also have a small area around the base of my neck that is as tempermental as a teenage girl. Thanks for the much needed advice.
 
Great write up. A friend's son has the problem of "when I shave myself my skin gets torn up but when a barber does it I'm fine." We were trying to determine what his issue was. As I didn't have that issue because I "eased in to wet shaving".
 
"Sensitive skin" is essentially allergic to one or more chemicals.

"Razor burn" occurs when you press to hard with the razor.

"Aggressive" razors are efficient (fewer passes to achieve BBS) and therefore less likely to cause razor burn than "Mild" razor...so long as you don't press too hard.

Shave every day and you'll build up callus which will make your shaving easier over time.

Use only high-quality face and shaving soaps. Most generic brands contain detergents that remove essential oils from the skin, i.e., facial skin that is "sensitive" to detergents, and make shaving harder over time.

"Pre-shave oil" doesn't add any slickness necessary to a smooth shave to what a good-quality shave soap will provide, and it can inhibit beard hydration if applied too early, which can yield a harsh shave. It won't necessarily ruin a shave but can't help one either.

Exactly +1
 
I'm impressed with the quality of your write-up in terms of issue/discussion/recommendation. No whining and no quitting on your part, which after 5.5 months of less-than-optimal results is impressive.

I normally don't have too much of an issue with irritation now that I regularly cork my new blades, but I'm going to give your pre-shave formula of 1:1 of sweet almond oil and jojoba oil a try. Who knows? It might be that last 5% I'm looking for.

Thanks!

Rick
 
Nice write up. I read it all and enjoyed it. Thanks for taking the time.

I know many would think a mild razor and mild blade(not sure which blade you use) would be a good combo for a very sensitive skin but I would suggest for some people to try the exact opposite. You want to have the least amount of friction on your skin as you can right? If you use an aggressive razor with very sharp blades then you could cut one or more passes off your shave and the less time you're dragging a blade against your skin the better right?

This is a little gem of advise.
 
Thank you everyone for the thanks and appreciation. It really did take a while to write all that up, haha. I've read through all the replys and there are several I wish to make a response to; however, considering I don't get much time in the day to check the forums I'll have to respond over the next few days.

I wanted to start here...

"Sensitive skin" is essentially allergic to one or more chemicals.

"Razor burn" occurs when you press to hard with the razor.

"Aggressive" razors are efficient (fewer passes to achieve BBS) and therefore less likely to cause razor burn than "Mild" razor...so long as you don't press too hard.

"Pre-shave oil" doesn't add any slickness necessary to a smooth shave to what a good-quality shave soap will provide, and it can inhibit beard hydration if applied too early, which can yield a harsh shave. It won't necessarily ruin a shave but can't help one either.

First, perhaps I used the wrong term when I said "razor burn". I meant general irritation. However, razor burn can be caused by things other than pressure such as a dull blade or too much tug/pull which can cause the blade to skip, or even if your angle is off with an aggressive razor, despite using no pressure). But anyway, I find the oil helps both razor burn and irritation so I guess its not too big a mistake :p.

But, I disagree with your definition of sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is simply that... skin which is sensitive.. whether it be sensitive to certain chemicals, or sensitive to a razor blade scraping across it.

But what I most disagree with, is when you say that preshave oil can inhibit beard hydration and yield a harsh shave. This is exactly contrary to the purpose of MY preshave oil. The purpose of my preshave oil is to hydrate the beard, not to provide slickness. As I mentioned in my post, jojoba oil and sweet almond oil penetrate the outer shell of your whiskers thereby nourishing, hydrating, and softening your whiskers at their core while giving them a healthy shine. So don't think that it inhibits beard hydration - it actually is hydrating your beard. That's why high quality shaving creams/soaps on the market advertise that they contain certain oils such as coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, and other hydrating, skin/hair softening oils... After two weeks of researching a million and one oils, jojoba and sweet almond oil seemed the best best for what I was looking for, and lucky for me, they were.
 
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