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Honing Newbie, basics!

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
This has me thinking starting out i might go 1000 to 2000 before jumping to a 4k or 6k? That way if i miss just a little on 1000 the 2000 might recover a slight off bevel? Or would be considered to much honing on a rough grit for to long and degrade the life of the razor? I have noticed a lot of the rock sites carry a 1k to 6k combo but i would think that is a big jump from 1k to 6k. So i would probably want a 4k/8k combo to go with it? Then a slurry stone and a lv4.5 shohonyama?
Reason i ask is that is what i put in my ebay watch list, less the 2k just wondering if i need it?
I'm in @camoloc's camp on this. Most find that the best progression is to about 2.5 to 3 times higher up on the next grit, like 1k to 3k to 8k to 20k to 50k etc.

Taking smaller steps does not tend to produce a better result and just adds more work that is not really required.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
You want lapping film, not "microfinishing film" or "polishing paper" or any other misleadingly named products. Lapping film and no other. And no, you do not want PSA. I don't like it and I tried once again to use it and still don't like it. Read the threads. Don't just jump in there, credit card in hand. Cool your jets. First, learn to shave. FIRST, LEARN TO SHAVE. That means you need to start with a shave ready razor, one that actually is shave ready and not just claimed by the seller to be shave ready. No "internet shave ready". Verify the seller on teh forum before you trust a stranger who might not even shave with a straight razor and might be a girl, who doesn't shave her face at all. Forum members offering shave ready razors for sale on BST can generally be trusted, since their reputations are at stake. Get good at shaving first. THEN start honing. Please don't think that this is not important. If you do it backwards, there really isn't much help I can give you except point you to the Newbie Honing Compendium. You will probably fail. If you learn to shave and to recognize "shave ready" edges, (hint... shaving arm hair is how you test your pocketknife, not your razor!) then you have a pretty good chance of picking it up quick. Lastly, if you ignore that very sound advice, you will ignore other very sound advice and are probably a lost cause. Follow the instructions perfectly without fail, without substitutions, without ommissions or freestyling, and you will succeed.
 
My new stone,yippee!
20200827_140318.jpg
 
Hello gents!

I have been practicing both honing with lapping film (finally, not more PSA crap) and shaving with a straight razor. Getting better at both.

Currently finishing like following:
- 3u (50 laps)
- 1u (50 laps)
- 1u with damp paper (10 laps)
- 1u with damp paper and lather (10 laps)

Then (and between each shave):
- CRoX (50 laps)
- Hanging leather strap (50 laps)

Any fine tuning to this process I can still make, as I still believe that my other professionally honed razor is just a wee bit sharper? Order or number of laps? I

Or 0.3u lapping film which also came with the kit? If so, in between which steps would you recommend?

Thanks!
 
By all means experiment with the 0.3u. You could hone with it or strop with it. I once laid a piece dry on my leather (hanging) strop and it seemed to improve the edge a little.

It's not just about the materials though. There's a skill to knowing how much pressure you need at different stages of honing. I've still to figure that out.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Hello gents!

I have been practicing both honing with lapping film (finally, not more PSA crap) and shaving with a straight razor. Getting better at both.

Currently finishing like following:
- 3u (50 laps)
- 1u (50 laps)
- 1u with damp paper (10 laps)
- 1u with damp paper and lather (10 laps)

Then (and between each shave):
- CRoX (50 laps)
- Hanging leather strap (50 laps)

Any fine tuning to this process I can still make, as I still believe that my other professionally honed razor is just a wee bit sharper? Order or number of laps? I

Or 0.3u lapping film which also came with the kit? If so, in between which steps would you recommend?

Thanks!

I never liked sub micron lapping film. The .3u created an edge that does not shave comfortably. You can mitigate it somewhat by using picopaper under the .3u film but I prefer to give it a miss, and the CrOx too. From 1u film instead of using picopaper I go from straight film honing to .5u diamond on lapped and backed balsa, then .25u, then .1u. From there I go 50 laps after every shave on just the .1u. When done according to The Method, it creates and maintains a superb edge that shaves effortlessly and if properly handled, smoothly and comfortably. The backed and lapped balsa with embedded diamond is far superior to CrOx.
 
Thanks for the answers!

I guess it is time to dig into the diamond pastes indeed.....

Next chapter in the “method” for me then! :)
 
While I shop for the diamond pastes (seems not that easy here in Europe...) and balsa, etc I keep on trying to improve the process itself. I went through it all over again for the same razor and I could feel an improvement. What changed? Pressure. A lot less. A LOT less.

While I will retire the CrOX when I get the diamond paste, I wonder if you could take a look at what I am using on the picture bellow and comment whether it may have too much or not enough paste, also if it already seems too worn off in some spots.

proxy.php
 
Yes, someone knows where to get the .1 diamond paste in Europe. I have to move for a while, and a balsa strop seems better suited to the situation than a full kit of stones...
 
While I shop for the diamond pastes (seems not that easy here in Europe...) and balsa, etc I keep on trying to improve the process itself. I went through it all over again for the same razor and I could feel an improvement. What changed? Pressure. A lot less. A LOT less.

While I will retire the CrOX when I get the diamond paste, I wonder if you could take a look at what I am using on the picture bellow and comment whether it may have too much or not enough paste, also if it already seems too worn off in some spots.

proxy.php

Finally I am getting ahold of some of the good stuff as per Mr. Slash McCoy’s testament. Will post when I get it all. Still struggling with the diamond pastes in Europe…..

For the time being still using same procedure as described above, in which I am still not that comfortable with the CrOx paste (see picture please). Seems rough in some bits. Even if stripping very lightly still sounds strange. Not sure if I should sand it, add more paste, or….?
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Finally I am getting ahold of some of the good stuff as per Mr. Slash McCoy’s testament. Will post when I get it all. Still struggling with the diamond pastes in Europe…..

For the time being still using same procedure as described above, in which I am still not that comfortable with the CrOx paste (see picture please). Seems rough in some bits. Even if stripping very lightly still sounds strange. Not sure if I should sand it, add more paste, or….?

First things first. Forget about any sort of wood for your backing. it will warp. BEST material for backing up your balsa is clear acrylic, at least 3/4" thick. Thicker is better, safer for your fingertips. You need three pieces, 12" long and 3" wide. Glue your 1/4" thick 12" long and 3" wide balsa pieces, three of them, each to its own plate. When glue is completely set, lap the balsa on a proven flat surface. Without the proper substrate, the abrasive cannot give you optimum performance.

I see no reason whatsoever why you can't get diamond paste in Europe. You may not be able to get them FROM Europe. You will probably have to get them from the U.S. or China. Amazon or Ebay. Or Ted Pella for high grade laboratory quality stuff.

If you are going to let every little detail stop you, then you may as well stick with what you got, or just forget about it. Your results will not be the same as the results that others get, using optimized methods and materials. Are you or are you not serious about this? If you aren't serious, of course that is okay, too.Your razors, after all.
 
Thanks! :)

I got the exact same acrylic and balsa plates as you mention - finally!

Will setup as per your instructions.
 
I was hoping to find some paste from China indeed, but the best I could find was 0.5 - no 0.25 nor 0.1.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
What... you can't buy on Amazon? I see TechDIamondTools and Kent Supplies on Amazon. Kent does not have .1u but TechDiamondTools does. Kent's prices for the 20gr tubs is very cheap.

Like I said, Ted Pella is the final word in quality diamond paste. Did you google it? I'll hold your hand and do it for you.

TechDiamondTools .1u paste

I'm not going to spend all morning doing your shopping for you. The list of diamond paste product listings is 20 pages long and then there is ebay and aliexpress.
 
Most dont ship overseas. What you see listed on Amazon over there, is not what we see over here.
Ali dont list .1, starts at 0.5.

I was hopping a CE based honer having found a source, to share...
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
You have not even TRIED to place an order with Ted Pella. They ship anywhere in the world. I'm done. You give up too easy and I am not going to place your order for you.
 
Ordered.

Can share first thoughts when it (eventually…. UK orders take ages now, plus customs scrutiny) arrives.

Will follow the manual for sure, all is there. What I haven’t read so far, sorry if I missed it, is: how long does that setup last before needing to refresh the paste? A certain number of laps, time, check-by-observation?

Question also important for deciding for a 5g or 18g from Ted Pellas? :)

Thanks!
 
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