Section 7 - 5, Chinese 12K

Chinese 12K
This is a stone I am quite fond of… and it always surprises me just how superbly well it works, and for such a bargain bin price. In fact, I am ashamed to admit, I wrote the stone off by and large due to them being so inexpensive – I just assumed they were nothing superlative to speak of… boy was I wrong. In my opinion, if you want a natural finishing hone – look no further than the Chinese 12K. These natural water stones are EXCEPTIONALLY hard stones, almost ceramic like, and are quarried in the Guangxi province of China. While a “water stone” and while they recommend soaking the stone, I find it unnecessary – and personally I get superb results merely wetting the stone, and honing away. This stone cuts very, very, VERY slowly. I mean at least 50, usually 100 passes as a finishing. While it does take awhile to get that buttery smooth edge, once you’re there – at least in my opinion, it is one of the nicest finishing hones and for a big hone (these are 8” X 2-3/4” X 1-1/4&#8221 and a solid hone (these aren’t mounted to anything – these are all natural, all 12K honing material, and all useful/usable) – these are an absolute steal for the paltry sum of $30! These stones do need to be flattened however, and they are incredibly hard – so make sure you have a diamond plate, and some patience, as it’ll take some time to lap this sucker!



Pro’s
1.) Amazing deal, as they are inexpensive, readily available, large and all natural.
2.) Slow cutting… very hard to over hone, and works great for razors that “microchip” with faster cutting hones.
3.) These hones work exceptionally well, and since they are so hard after an initial lapping, you might not need to lap it ever again.
4.) These hones do not need to be soaked prior to use.



Con’s
1.) Very slow cutting – can be time consuming.
2.) Very hard – can take a long time to lap.
3.) These hones offer very little “feedback” and feel as if you are running your razor across smooth glass.
4.) Somewhat boring to use.

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you know what i just realized...i need a one of these!

Where can I order one of these, having trouble finding one.

Woodcraft has them.

Which is easier to flatten: the Chinese 12K or the Spyderco UF?

TstebinsB said:

Which is easier to flatten: the Chinese 12K or the Spyderco UF?

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That's like asking if you'd rather get hit at 60MPH by a Chevy Suburban, or a Ford Expedition.

Basically - they're both horrifyingly miserable. I like the hones - they work great - but I'd never buy either again.

joel said:

That's like asking if you'd rather get hit at 60MPH by a Chevy Suburban, or a Ford Expedition.

Basically - they're both horrifyingly miserable. I like the hones - they work great - but I'd never buy either again.

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Fortunately, someone just traded me their lapped UF for some of my stuff.

joel said:

That's like asking if you'd rather get hit at 60MPH by a Chevy Suburban, or a Ford Expedition.

Basically - they're both horrifyingly miserable. I like the hones - they work great - but I'd never buy either again.

Click to expand...

I can strongly second that statement.

I still have my lapped UF; never use it anymore. I have "re-discovered" an excellent/old solution that comes in a smaller package: I use a barber hone right before the newspaper...

I've heard that straights need to be stropped before and after each use (true/false?), but approximately how often do they need to be honed?

well, hello stevethetree. I don´t understand why you felt the urge to bring up a post that old, to ask this kind of question but I´ll give you an answer anyway.

A straight razor needs to be stropped on a leather or linen strop (without an abrasive paste) bevore every use.

When a razor needs to be honed depends on many factors such as quality of the steel and the grind, type of beard and level of skill for stropping.
A skilled shaver may get along with a straight razor for a year or even more,
without the need of a stone.


You might want to read some more "wikis" or FAQ´s if you´re interested in getting to know straight razor shaving