Where to get quality adhesive w&d sandpaper?

[algebro]

So, I've restored a couple of razors now and I've really been struggling to find w&d sandpaper that doesn't fall apart and stop cutting within a couple of minutes (even well known brands like 3M). I also can't seem to find the adhesive kind in the right grits, which I'd like to use to attach strips of it to a cork after seeing H Brad Boonshaft recommend that.

Can someone share some links to quality sandpapers for this purpose that also don't cost a fortune? I'm happy to buy expensive paper but it doesn't make any sense when all the grit falls off and I need a new sheet after like 2 minutes of sanding.

Thanks!

 

[Darth Scandalous]

That's interesting, I've not had 3M W/D fall apart or shed grit appreciably. Sure, it will lose cutting power over time. Non W/D, yes.

If you're looking to attach it to a backer, a spray adhesive will work, especially the repositionable kind. A light spritz should be enough to hold it and still peel it off when it's spent.

 

[algebro]

That's interesting, I've not had 3M W/D fall apart or shed grit appreciably.

Do you know which particular model/line you've used? I tried this and it stopped cutting super fast--went through a whole box in no time, so it ended up being pretty expensive: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQU6PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I think I've been using the 3M 213Q line. Got a bunch on sale at Menards. It's not nearby at the moment so I can't double check.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

Do you know which particular model/line you've used? I tried this and it stopped cutting super fast--went through a whole box in no time, so it ended up being pretty expensive: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQU6PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It says 3M but don't look like 3M ??

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Take a look at Nick Wheeler’s Hand Sanding 101 video for some great information on hand sanding and his sandpaper recommendations.

Wheeler hand sands his custom knives and puts an increasable finish on them, his satin finish is flawless and one of the best I have seen.

Merka, Rhynowet, Super grit and Matador are the papers I use. Merka and Rhynowet are available locally from Automotive Paint supplier and on-line. Matador paper I bought online, eBay.

The trick with sandpaper and hand sanding is to switch paper to a fresh side of piece, once it stops cutting.

I cut my non-PSA paper into 3 X3 inch pieces with an old Guillotine style paper cutter, I immediately mark the back of each piece so you know what the grit is, or you will never be sure of which grit you are using.

I then wrap a cork with the paper and roll the paper about a ¼ inch after a few strokes to expose a fresh cutting edge until I have used the entire side of the piece. Then turn the paper 90 degrees and roll on to the cork to expose a whole new side of the piece, so, you get 4 fresh cutting sides, and you get to use every inch of paper.

When it is not cutting aggressively the paper is done, toss the sheet and get a new piece.]

To sand larger hollows, I place a 3x3 piece of Yoga mat, (they come in different thickness, I have several, that I also cut with a paper cutter), between the sandpaper and the cork. This gives you a larger contact area and is good for high grit papers and finishing.

Check out the Wheeler Videos, lots of great information. Keep in mind that he is finishing a large knife coming off a grinder and using aggressive grits to remove a lot of material, but a lot of his information applies he is just using more aggressive grits.

I typically start refinishing razor at 600 grits, occasionally dropping down to 320 & 400, but most work is done at 600,800,1 & 2k then buff.

Nick Wheeler Hand Sanding 101

 

[duke762]

The only trouble I've had with 3M w/d was trying to use it dry. It would load and scratch deeper than the grit listed. If you are sanding the blade use some WD40 while sanding. It should last a long time. As mentioned above, 3M has deceptive packaging, their packages appears the same as wet/dry, but wet/dry isn't mentioned.

I wouldn't worry much about using adhesive backed. You can wrap a strip around something and secure it with your fingers. Not to mention the mess it will create by using WD on it. I have used flexible backers with medium grits but it's finger only for the highest grits. I've even used soft, carborundum mold stones on pits. They can be easily dressed to work in the hollow of the blade. I mostly use a backer for grinding out heavy pitting, mostly it's just my booger hook. Be sure to rest it when it gets swollen and feverish.

 

[algebro]

Merka, Rhynowet, Super grit and Matador are the papers I use. Merka and Rhynowet are available locally from Automotive Paint supplier and on-line.

Are these the rhynowet product you're using? I didn't have much luck finding Merka.

9 X 11 Inch Indasa RhynoWet Sandpaper Sheets, 50 Pack

INDASA Rhynowet sanding sheets allow you to sand difficult surfaces and deliver a flawless hand finish. These sheets are excellent for both wet and dry hand sanding and can be used on all types of surfaces including harder materials. This premium abrasive line is designed with the highest...

www.redlabelabrasives.com

I'm noticing a trend in sandpaper recommendations so far--most seem to be using aluminum oxide as the abrasive rather than SiC. Maybe just coincidence but I'm wondering if that cuts longer?

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yea, that is the Rhynowet paper, Merka is more of a Professional Automotive finish sandpaper. You can buy it on-line, but if you find an Auto paint supplier locally, you can find all the grits, (higher grits are harder to find) and can usually buy in smaller quantities to sample grits.

I do like the PSA Merka for sanding sticks, mostly for other applications, not razors.

You have to think about sanding paper as a disposable product. When it stops cutting, get a new piece.

It is all about the finish, not necessarily how long the paper lasts. Some of the newer Ceramic papers cut very well and last much longer, I use them for grinding and sharpening tool steel, and not so much for restoration of razors, though you can get them up to 1k grit.

Merka makes some high grit papers for finish sanding Automotive paint finishes, but paint is much softer than steel, and really from 1-2k, I go to the buffer for an easy, quick high gloss finish on razors.

So, you don’t need to buy the Best, Highest quality paper, because unless you are doing a high-quality Satin finish, a true Satin finish, not a 600 grit finish, you will likely be buffing and or hand polishing with good metal polish with will take out any slight imperfections.

I have a number of brands, including a slug of old Norton 400-2k boxes that I bought at an estate sale years ago. They all work.

For a nice finish, pick up some Crocus Cloth sanding sheets. Crocus when used dry can make an ultra-fine satin finish off a 1 or 2k finish, or when used with oil will polish highly. Here in the US, I can buy Crocus at Ace Hardware, by the single sheet.

A sheet of Crocus when used as just a finisher will go a long way.

 

[Gamma]

Do you know which particular model/line you've used? I tried this and it stopped cutting super fast--went through a whole box in no time, so it ended up being pretty expensive: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQU6PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't by the correct type of paper and use it correctly then you can spend top dollar and still feel screwed.
You want to use lower grits for heavier stock removal. 600x isn't going to be good for rust removal or heavier tasks. It will load up and stop working fast. I can't imagine blowing through 25 sheets of paper on a couple/few razors. Something is up there. Best to address the situation from the ground up for clarity. Honestly doesn't make sense.

Your link is for A weighted SIC paper - lighter duty. I don't know that particular paper. I suspect the binder isn't as rugged as what is used on some other papers in their catalog. Might be regular consumer oriented product. I try to use commercial stuff when possible.

SIC is less durable but cuts smoother than ALOX.
Alox wears longer not as smooth.

3M 213Q is alox, A weight. backing holds up well though.
3m 413Q is SIC, A weight - same backing, softer abrasive.
3m 431Q is SIC, C weight, more durable backing, softer abrasive.

I use a lot of 213Q and I beat the heck out of on sanding beams. Works well dry but lasts longer wet.
I try other brands all the time but have been using 213Q for looooong time and have never been disappointed. I go way harder on it than what most razor jobs require. Last 50 sheet box I got on Amazon.

You can get any paper you want and use a low tack spray adhesive for mounting to blocks or forms.
I have a 3m spray for that purpose. Works well.