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My return to the journey...

Hello again to all,
An opening ramble to think out loud and organize my way...

Back in 2015 I made the jump from canned goo and cartridge razors to the world of wet shaving. As many do, I lurked for a few months before signing up, asked a few questions and read many, many posts. Eventually I decided to just get going and picked up a starter kit from Maggards. Thus begun my journey.

I had some success in my early shaves and randomly tried many blades, razors, soaps, and brushes. I fell into the GAD vortex and accumulated a good bit more than I could use for some time. After 18 months or so, I drifted away from the forums but continued wet shaving for a few more years. I settled into a Slim Adjustable, acutally a pair of them, still random blade use and primarily MWF for my soap. With our well water, I lather MWF, and any soap, very easily and they always work well.

At some point, convenience began to win over and I drifted into an electric shaver. I got decent enough shaves and I could pick it up nearly any time or place with a reasonable outcome. But this convenience really didn't give me any satisfaction in the process, just a somewhat clean shaven face.

A few months ago, I opened my stash of wet shaving supplies, took a deep, cleansing breath and decided I'd had enough with the electric. I was going back to a DE razor shave. I immediately fell into the GAD vortex for a few moments, landing only ankle deep this time, but I picked up another soap or three, some blade samples and a RazorRock GameChanger 0.68.

I lurked around the forums again and noticed that a number of tallow based soaps had reformulated. There were quite a lot of new razors on the market. You Tube seemed to be the source of information (for better or worse, YMMV as always). And DE shaving wasn't exactly like riding a bike (my longest passion in life). I started back with my original Maggard V3 and cut and pasted my way through a couple of miserable shaves, worse than the very first ones in 2015. I then tried my trusted Slim and got slightly better but still uninspired results, despite trying multiple different blades.

For whatever reason (YT videos probably), I decided to pick up the GameChanger and refocus on technique...a discovery I'd made after my first shave or two back when I started. This razor was balanced differently than my others and it seemed to fall into place without me getting in the way. WTG passess were smooth enough with the Astra greens although not especially close. Two WTG passes and a little clean-up buffing was passable without much irritation. I had a few bloodless shaves as my touch improved, as did the overall results.

Looking for a closer shave but being hesitant about too much aggression, I added the 0.76 base plate to the GameChanger roster. I noticed an immediate increase in closeness without any additional irritation. Also, this razor clears soap and whisker debris very easily. I've also recently been using blades described as 'sharper' than what I'd used recently, mostly Accuforge and, recently, Treet Carbon. I have three or four soaps, and a number of samples, that all provide wonderfully slick skin protection and excellent after shave feel. I've also recently added a preshave treament with either a high glycerin soap or Proraso White pre-shave.

All these things, together with a refocus on angles, pressure and mapping beard growth, have reenergized this small amount of 'me' time that afford myself every two or three days each week. I've never been one to wear any type of scent so I really like the scented soaps, knowing that they won't be lingering more than an hour or so. My post shave routine of alum, a blend of generic witch hazel and orange menthol splash from Maggards and finishing with Nivea balm keeps the scent to a minimum, while helping my skin feel great.

I now look forward to shaving in the evenings when I can take the time I need and not be rushed. For the past few weeks, I've actually logged the gear I've used and been trying to systematically figure out what works better and what's just ok. As much as I'm enjoying this return to DE shaving, I'm now about to enter the world of straights....

A couple of recent lessons or eureka moments learned or relearned:
1. Technique really is EVERYTHING. You can't buy it, you can only develop it.
2. Find a soap base (or three) that works well for you and stick with it. For me, the scent is fleeting and really doesn't matter much as long as SWMBO likes it!
3. This doesn't need to be a hobby in which you're always looking for the next 'thing', but it also shouldn't feel like a chore. Figure out what works for you!

If you're still here, thanks for sticking with me on this. I'm not sure how long I'll keep this up or where it's headed. Along the way, I welcome any thoughts, commentary or questions. Although we're all on our own journeys, spending time along the way with others makes the journey much more interesting...

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
Thanks to everyone for the encouraging words. I'm not used to documenting my life very well. I've tried writing a journal two or three times but each of those only lasted a few months. For better or worse, my life as been lived in the moment with only a little planning, mostly due to my wife's interventions, and even less reflection. Wherever this journal goes will be a conscious effort to reverse that trend.

As a motivating factor, my goals are for this journal to 1) eventually provide a means to document my journey and have a way to see how I've progressed, 2) possibly encourage others to try something new in their journeys, even if it's just the documentation process and 3) gratuitously solicit advice and feedback from those of you that have traveled your own journeys and are willing to share your wins and losses along the way.

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
Today's shaving news starts with an exciting pair of arrivals...my first straight razor and strop, from Griffith Shave Goods. This was my second choice but my first was sold before I got home to order it. This is a Friedrich Schlemper Focus 217 6/8 carbon steel razor. I also received on of Matt's beautiful strops. I'm excited to try these out but not this evening....

Schlemper Focus 217.jpg

This evening's shave felt like two steps backwards, however temporary those steps may be... Close enough result but lots of bump weepers below the angles of my mouth (my usual trouble spot), uncomfortable enough that I decided to stop midway through to limit the damage and reevaluate. I used mostly the same gear as my last shave two evenings ago. There were a couple of differences that may have contributed.

Same items
razor: GameChanger 0.76
blade: new Treet Carbon
brush: Semogue 1250 boar
preshave: warm glycerin soap wash followed by Proraso white preshave
post shave: Nivea balm

Differences
soap: Proraso white instead of Rex 1966
growth: two days rather than five
post shave: no alum or witch hazel, just 1966 splash

My typical routine:
1) soak brush in warm water (just dab tips prior to loading if badger or synthetic)
2) while waiting for brush, wash face with glycerin soap, rinse and pat dry
3) add preshave to face
4) load brush then face lather
5) assemble razor
6) 2-3 passes as needed
7) cold rinses followed by alum, a splash then balm to finish.

Sunday night I shaved after being out of town, disconnected from the grid for a few days. With five days growth, I was more than ready to wipe my face clean and this shave didn't disappoint. I prefer to shave every two to three days, any more frequent and my face is very unhappy. I'm on a well but haven't had any difficulty getting great lather with any soaps in the past...as far as I remember. Like it has before, 1966 lathered very well leading to a smooth, slick shave, with little to no irritation. I kind of like the alum buzz!

Proraso white was my first soap purchase with my Maggard starter kit 9+ years ago. I used nearly 3/4 of the tub before I even tried anything else. However I can't fathom when I used it last and, since returning to the blade, I've made a point of reacquainting myself with my inventory of goods. I was unable to get more than a thin lather tonight, very different than any in recent memory. My other soaps, MWF, 1966, Stirling, can take nearly as much water as you can add to them. Maybe I over-hydrated the Proraso today using my normal face lathering technique...

Possible contributors to the poorer shave today
1. 2 days vs 5 days. Maybe 3 days really is my minimum time frame.
2. over-hydration of the soap. I don't remember ever having problems with Proraso. It got me through those difficult first months of wet shaving.
3. new blade. I used the Treet for the first time last shave but dropped it into the sink and the edge hit the stopper so I tossed it.

Friday or Saturday will be another shave. I'll likely return to the 1966 soap to see if the blade contributed...while keeping in mind lesson #1 - Technique is EVERYTHING!

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
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Saturday DE shave was wonderful. I used the same gear as Tuesday, except I returned to the tub of 1966. With approximately four days of growth, I was ready to really clean up. A warm face wash with glycerin soap, Proraso white pre-shave and 10-15 seconds of loading my boar brush and I was ready to scrape away.

It's interesting that I often read of the difficulties others have in raising a good lather, especially with some tallow soaps, while on untreated and unsoftened well water. This has not been the case in my house. Although I haven't had the water tested recently, we know from experience that the mineral content changes dramatically depending on how much recent rain we've had. Here in western Oregon, our June through September is often nearly rain free while the rest of the year can be overcast and drizzly to days of saturating rains. This dramatically changes the taste of our water as the rains percolate down through the water table. I also notice the difference when cleaning and changing the hot tub water. The amount of chemicals needed to keep the water balanced is an ongoing effort....a well worth effort!

Face lathered and relaxed, I loaded the previously used Treet Carbon blade and proceed with 2+ passes of a nearly ideal shave. Other than a single, distracted moment in which my chin paid a small penalty, I had one of my best shaves in a long time. Compared to my last shave, this was a dream. Whether it was a small change in prep or the different shave soap that made the difference, I can't be certain. But I've really become a fan of the Rex 1966 shave quality and scent.

A few months ago I received samples of the 1955, 1966 and 1977 shave soaps. While they all share the same soap base and would likely have similar shave qualities, the scents of 1955 and 1977 were immediately rejected by SHMBO and myself. The cute little containers were deposited into the future PIF box and I ordered a tub of 1966 that evening. The shaves with 1966 are on par with my favorite, MWF, but with a 'sweeter' scent. I do love the smell of MWF and hope to always have some around. I still have the old formulation in the crock so we'll see how the non-tallow performs in the future.

I've also recently been using some samples from Stirling, most of which I really like the scents, but there are a few non-starters...I've used Picenza for a number of shaves and really liked the slickness and protection. The scent is also very comforting to me. When I bought my first sample pack from them, they included a sample of D-503 bath soap. I liked it so much that I tried a full sized bar of Picenza...I now have an order in for 6 different bars of bath soap, D-503 splash and balm! Since I go through bath soap faster than shaving soap, this feels like a more efficient way to find the scents I really want to shave with. I really don't want too many soap choices necessitating a bathroom remodel to keep it all in order!

I finished my shave today with a lovely alum treatment followed by my homebrewed witch hazel and Maggard's Orange Menthol splash (purchased over nine years ago). It's a mix of approx 2/3 generic witch hazel and 1/3 splash. It's been my go-to since I started DE shaving. However, today I tried to liven things up a little. Along with my recent recent order of shave soap samples from Stirling, I also ordered a bottle of their menthol. I intended to add two drops of this menthol to the splash in my hand, but I don't know how much I really added. I had shaken the bottle prior to dispensing anything and there was a lot of bubbly liquid coming out...for the next hour, my face felt as though ice cubes were held in place. It was an interesting sensation.... ;-}

Going forward, I'll target shaving every three to four days as much as I can. This may change a bit as I transition into using a straight razor. But, for now, I'm quite happy where I am...

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
Tuesday's shave was another very good one. I believe these latest shaves have been getting consistently better as I've developed a feel for the Game Changer more than any specific other factor. The only recent outlier shave was the singular return to the 9+year old jar of Proraso white...

Tuesday: Game Changer 0.76, glycerin soap pre-shave, Stirling D-503 sample soap (love the smell), Treet Carbon (3rd and final shave)
Alum, homebrew witch hazel/Orange Menthol AS, Nivea balm

Even with my best shaves, I get quite a lot of buzz from the alum, not an unpleasant sensation to me. With nicks, weepers and incidences of obvious irritation, alum use seems obvious. However, after a close, clean shave with no apparent irritation, my skin routinely reacts to the alum. Using it feels right in those situations, but I don't know that it's necessary. Thoughts?

The 0.76 Game Changer head seems to be my Goldilocks... The 0.68 that I initially bought required more passes, leading to more irritation and a less enjoyable shave. I don't have any plans to try the more aggressive heads for this razor as I slowly begin my straight razor journey......soon. I feel this is where my DE search has led me and I'm good with it.

I started out with the Maggard razor in my starter kit and spent a few weeks trying out so many blades and learning basic techniques. I felt I got to a good place with those shaves. I recently went back and tried it again but really couldn't get a sense for it again. Most of my DE experience has been with a Gillette Slim, actually 2 of them. I loved the idea of an adjustable razor, giving me the chance to really dial in my preference. Starting at a setting of 3, I eventually settled at 6. This worked well with nearly every blade I tried...other than the Derbys which haven't worked for me in any combinations of hardware and software. Upon my recent return to DE shaving, I couldn't seem to mesh with Maggard or the Slims, from 3 to 7 nothing worked. That's when I decided to try the Game Changer. Stainless steel, every blade combo has worked, aggressive enough for an easy shave, at a very fair price....what's not to love!

With 3 blades used in the 10 blade pack, I'm sold on the Treet Carbons. They've done everything well, they've each performed as intended over 3 shaves and I have no complaints. These are now at the top of my list! I have a few other top-rated blades to try before I finally settle in and make a large purchase. The Accuforge blades were close but not as consistent as the Carbons nor as smooth. I believe the Permasharps will be next...

For those in the US, have a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday.

For everyone,
Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 

Balin

“I am a well overdue couch potato”
Even with my best shaves, I get quite a lot of buzz from the alum, not an unpleasant sensation to me. With nicks, weepers and incidences of obvious irritation, alum use seems obvious. However, after a close, clean shave with no apparent irritation, my skin routinely reacts to the alum. Using it feels right in those situations, but I don't know that it's necessary. Thoughts?
I am in the habit of using alum after every shave. I use it to gauge how comfortable my shave was and if I should lighten up on the pressure. I don't think alum is a necessary step but will continue to use it until I have finished the block off. It took over 3 years for me to get to the point where the post shave alum feedback is minimal unless it was a disastrous shave. I may have even just become used to the alum feedback so I don't even notice it anymore 🤷‍♂️.
 
Friday AM shave
Three days growth, Gamechanger 0.76, Permasharp blade, Proraso white pre-shave, Stirling D-503

This shave was reasonably good but I didn't find that this blade felt as smooth and sharp as the Treet White Carbon blades....and what's up with the two blobs of adhesive stuck to the blade? I'll use this blade for a few more shaves and likely use a second blade for a few shaves before any conclusions are made. In the mean time, I've bought my first lot of 100 blades, the Treet's from Italian Barber. I couldn't find them anywhere else...I'll keep working through a couple more different blade options but now I have a standard to compare the rest to. As I transition to using a straight razor, the Gamechanger will always be an option my safety crutch while I'm learning some new skills.

Here's a question about lathering for using a straight razor...
I've read multiple times that many straight razor users prefer a wetter, runnier lather texture when compared to DE shaving. I haven't read any explanation as to why this is. Anyone know of a reason for this? What are your preferences?

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
Here's a question about lathering for using a straight razor...
I've read multiple times that many straight razor users prefer a wetter, runnier lather texture when compared to DE shaving. I haven't read any explanation as to why this is. Anyone know of a reason for this? What are your preferences?
Well, you have a longer cutting edge with potentially more contact with the skin. Probably the bigger issue is that if you're using a low angle the rest of the blade will kind of suction into the lather and drag if it's dry.

But, I prefer a wet lather for both safety razors and straights, if anything my lather is thinner and wetter for DEs but I also ride the cap pretty religiously.
 
Monday evening shave
Three days growth and I kept everything the same as last Friday, now with the second shave on this Permasharp blade. I believe I've just experienced the phenomena of a blade getting smoother after a first shave. I don't feel like it was sharper but the shave was noticeably easier on my face with this second use. I also slowed down just a bit and really focused on which part of the blade was making contact with my face and making tiny adjustments in reducing the contact pressure. At times it felt more like sculpting than scraping. After so many shaves with this razor and especially the 0.76 head, it's as if I really connected with the hardware this time, unlike I can remember in the past.

I've kept my prep consistent recently with warm/hot water washes using glycerin soap followed by a hot, wet towel application and finally Proraso white pre-shave. I keep this on while setup my razor, load soap and then face lather. I've now tried three different Stirling soap samples and have had consistently slick volume from each. At this point I'm using their bath soaps as scent samplers rather than the shave soaps since I get through them more quickly. In the end, I'll likely choose their unscented or Sheep variety as my tub purchase. I really don't need more soap options at this time as they all lather so well.

In regular use:
Mitchell's Wool Fat - all time favorite
Rex 1966 - fairly recent but really like it
Bundubeard Hitting the Town - a few uses, getting to know it
Stirling samples - recently acquiring a variety but like most of them, all perform well
Tabac stick - tried a couple of times, still figuring out how best to apply

On hand but not yet used:
Haslinger Schafmilch

Other's tried and used:
Proraso White - my first tub, mostly done, will likely waste the rest and reuse container for Schafmilch
Van der Hagan glycerine - well used but uninspiring

Bought but in the PIF box:
Maggard samples - from my starter kit
Col. Conk Amber glycerine
Van der Hagen glycerine
Williams Mug
Lightfoot's
Edwin Jagger
Rex 1955 and 1977 samples

As always, the journey continues. Next shave is likely Thursday evening, #3 with the Permasharp blade and back to the Fat!

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
2 recent shaves, I didn't do my best with lathering either soap...but the end results were very good!

Thursday night:
I used the initial Permasharp for the third and final time and went back to my long time favorite soap, Mitchells Wool Fat. The shave was reasonably good, the blade felt as good as it did on the second shave. Since blades are so inexpensive, I've never taken one beyond three shaves. With shaving only every three days or so, my blade supplies of samples last a good long time.

I forgot to use the pre-shave this time but I don't know that I really noticed. However, it was very obvious that I hadn't used the Fat in some time. My lather was fairly runny, not luxuriously thick like I remember in the past. Honestly, I can't remember when I used this soap last....Another variable with this specific soap lathering could be the brush. I've been using this Semogue 12050 exclusively since I got it a few months ago. It's my first boar brush so I've not used it with MWF previously. I've used a WCS badger, a Whipped Dog synthetic and an Omega S brush (my first ever), all with good results. I actually doubt the brush was as much of a factor as likely under loading it. I've previously had excellent lather formation with all these brushes without putting much thought into it.

Either way, the shave result was good with only slight irritation and a few bumps below the corners of my mouth. I don't know that I've had even a single shave without some bumps showing up.

Sunday evening:
After a quick weekend trip to Idaho to visit family, I had a nice package waiting for me from Canada - a tub of Mudder Focker and my first 100 blade purchase - Treet white carbon! I really want to give the Permasharps a fair chance so I loaded another of these blades tonight. However, I was intrigued by the subtle scent of this new soap and very interested in the comments others have made about the excellent post-shave feel.

My set-up was the same as it has been since I added the 0.76 plate for the GameChanger: glycerin face wash and Proraso white pre-shave. I made sure to really load the Mudder and then face lathered while adding as much water as I could in the process. This soap has been described as fairly thirsty and I've been working on developing a slightly thinner lather than in the past. The scent is very mild but I'm not very good at discerning what the different components are. Overall, it doesn't smell floral, sweet, gamey or anything specific. It just smells 'nice'. The lather was slick and I easily completed three passes with a very nice shave! By the time I'd rinsed off the alum, I could no longer smell the soap at all. However, my skin felt almost 'refreshed'.

The post-shave feel was very different than the excellent and slick post-shave feel of MWF, but excellent in it's own way...almost as if I'd washed my face and then used a very light moisturizer lotion. Following up the alum with some witch hazel/Orange Menthol AS and then D-503 balm left my face feeling as good as I can imagine it feeling after scraping it with a sharp piece of metal.

I still had a moment or two of carelessness that could easily have led to a nasty cut, making inadvertent facial contact with blade when I wasn't ready to actually shave with it...I'm not yet ready to have any distractions in or around the bathroom!!!

Enjoy the ride,
Jay
 
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