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What’s your idea of a BBS shave?

What are your criteria? At what point during your routine do you ‘rate’ your shave?
I rate it after my 4th pass. Then if I choose i need to get bbs I would do some touch ups. I do 4 passes in general first which is wtg/xtg/xtg/atg. If I feel I do not have bbs, some touch ups! Not needed though.
 
As someone else mentioned, i rate it by the cotton ball test. If it snags, it’s not bbs. With that said, i’ve only ever done the cotton ball test once or twice to see if the few stray hairs i missed will snag and they do. I’ve only ever had 3-5 true BBS shaves in my life but i chase it every time; sometimes with bad results. To me, the fun part of shaving is trying to achieve the “perfect” shave. Some guys here can get a perfect shave nearly every time but it really has to do with your beard and technique. I actually switched to DE because i could get about 98% there with a cart but not 100%. DE taught me that it is possible but still very difficult for me. I am convinced it will be impossible for some people though.
 
What are your criteria? At what point during your routine do you ‘rate’ your shave?

A shave can only be rated when completed.
BBS is when no stubble can be detected whatsoever in any direction without stretching the skin or pulling hard to see if it can be felt.
With a light touch - BBS.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Far too much like hard work if you have any swirl patterns in your hair growth.

I have a swirl growth pattern on each side of my Adam's apple.
beard-grain-map-1.jpg

They were a challenge. Finding the right razor made them much easier to BBS and also much more comfortable to shave. You can see my discovery of that here: Gillette NEW LC Not Cutting It

Since learning and understanding that difference in razor design while focusing on the different aspects of razor design (blade gap and blade exposure) I found what works the best for me and its only become easier.

Finding the right blades for my skin and hair type were very important as well as understanding which directions to shave them in for the most comfort. With a rigid razor design that has minimal gap and generous blade exposure, my Fatip Grande for example, I only need to shave them in two directions with a Polsilver blade. Using my R41 and a fresh Feather blade, because the R41 lacks baseplate support, I need to shave them in five different directions or the blade will flex, skip and stutter. The thicker SE blade in my MMOC gives the same shave with less strokes and is even more gentle on my skin but demands a much better technique.

My swirls arent even a challenge anymore, but my left side jawline is difficult without a lot of blade exposure. Thats the one area my R41 excels at. I dont need a lot of rigidity to BBS my jawline or cheeks, but I sure do on my neck.


I actually switched to DE because i could get about 98% there with a cart but not 100%. DE taught me that it is possible but still very difficult for me.

I used cartridge and electric razors for over 20 years and never had a full BBS shave. I only did after changing to DE's and then not at first. They started appearing on their own as my technique improved. As my razor and blade choice improved, they started appearing a lot more often.
 
I rate my shave about 15 minutes after shaving. Normally after cleaning up and while posting my shave that day. I used cotton balls originally, but just go by feel normally, though I do still go with cotton balls if in doubt. Depending on the razor and day, I'll do either a 3 pass shave, 2 ATG passes, or a single ATG pass with touchups. I don't do 3 passes with touchups, that is irritation!

SRs are a different story.
beard map.jpg
 

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Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I rate my shave about 15 minutes after shaving. Normally after cleaning up and while posting my shave that day. I used cotton balls originally, but just go by feel normally, though I do still go with cotton balls if in doubt. Depending on the razor and day, I'll do either a 3 pass shave, 2 ATG passes, or a single ATG pass with touchups. I don't do 3 passes with touchups, that is irritation!

SRs are a different story.
View attachment 953819


Thats a complex map. I really am blessed with a pretty easy growth pattern.
 
Thats a complex map. I really am blessed with a pretty easy growth pattern.
No telling what crazy thing happens under my moustache. I don't ever think I'll find out.

No to bad with SEs and DEs, but I think it will prevent me from getting shaves I want with SRs. Almost half way through my Franklin, Ben, or Century :) Time will tell.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
No telling what crazy thing happens under my moustache. I don't ever think I'll find out.

I dont even have to shave directly S-N over most of my upper lip. A 45° angle gets me there everywhere but the center.
 
I divide each cheek into quarters, each side of the neck in half, my chin in half, my upper lip in half, and each jawline in half. About a half hour after I shave, I slide my finger up and down in each section and deduct for scratchiness. I deduct one for each area. I deduct .5 for a nick and 1.0 for a weeper. Normally, I get between 9.2 and 9.6. It's not worth the time for me to get a higher rating.

Barbasol consistently gets the highest ratings, but it bleaches my skin. After that comes Gillette Foamy. Williams Mug Soap is close. Cremo is a tenth or so lower.

Gillette Wilkinson Swords and Astra platinum are equal up to 14 shaves, then Astra moves ahead.
 
To feel nothing in any direction even with considerable pressure.

I'm constantly working from the feedback from the razor. When I dont get any I know I'm done. Wiping and checking with a wet hand usually confirms it but I might need a clean up here and there.

BBS is the norm for me. I remember a while back someone suggested that what some of us call a BBS actually isnt and would be confirmed with the cotton ball test. I have no use for cotton balls, but I did buy a fresh bottle of Aspirin a couple weeks ago and it had a cotton ball in it so I tried it. It didnt snag or catch anywhere, even using pressure, so I passed that test easily.

My left side jawline is the most difficult area to BBS and also the first place I notice growth.




When I see Mr.Shinyface looking back at me in the mirror I know I've had a very good shave lol.


So how do you get the jaw line BBS? That's the place I'm having issues with. Like I said, it's still a DFS, and if I never get it to BBS I'm still more than happy. I'm thinking technique for my jawline isn't correct.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
So how do you get the jaw line BBS? That's the place I'm having issues with. Like I said, it's still a DFS, and if I never get it to BBS I'm still more than happy. I'm thinking technique for my jawline isn't correct.

My right side is easy. Simple buffing strokes from the base of my right ear towards the point of my chin. My left side is more complex. I need to buff at nearly a 45° up towards my nose and down towards the right side of my chest. The more blade exposure a razor has, like my Fatip Grande, R41 and MMOC, the easier it is to BBS my left side.
 
My right side is easy. Simple buffing strokes from the base of my right ear towards the point of my chin. My left side is more complex. I need to buff at nearly a 45° up towards my nose and down towards the right side of my chest. The more blade exposure a razor has, like my Fatip Grande, R41 and MMOC, the easier it is to BBS my left side.


Thanks. So it's a combo of maybe razor and my technique. I'll work on it. I'd love to say I'm getting a BBS shave on 100% of my face.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Thanks. So it's a combo of maybe razor and my technique. I'll work on it. I'd love to say I'm getting a BBS shave on 100% of my face.

Thats more a personal preference than anything, but I feel the same. I didnt have a BBS finish the other day through a combination of very mild razor and very good soap not letting me feel the blade as well and I dropped the angle left side cheek and jawline. I wasnt happy with myself because of it lol.

Its a rare shave that doesnt have a BBS finish for me and I strive for one every shave. For me, it makes me focus on technique and become better. A challenge of sorts, even if its not really as much of a challenge anymore.
 
So how do you get the jaw line BBS? That's the place I'm having issues with. Like I said, it's still a DFS, and if I never get it to BBS I'm still more than happy. I'm thinking technique for my jawline isn't correct.
If your beard along the jawline is E-W, and W-E like mine, I open my mouth fully, this moves the "underjaw" skin unto the "cheek-jaw" area, providing a large flat area to shave with a toward the ear (ATG), or toward the chin (WTG) stoke.
 
Having changed both my daughters’ diapers, I have never had a shave that truly aporoaches that degree of smoothness over my entire face. Maybe on my cheeks with a downward stroke. Maybe in other areas at the same time. But raise the chin and change stroke direction, nope, their butts weren’t like that.

As for making a decision, after the alum bar, no opinion. Rinse afterwards with cold water, pat dry and sokadh on witch hazel, still no opinion. But rub on the Nivea skin balm and that’s when I know. If the shave passes there, it will still pass with the last bit of post shave applied.
Here is the problem for me too: Having changed my daughters' diapers I am certain there is nothing I could do to my face or any other area of skin to return it to that kind of perfect smoothness. I could not have done it when I was 13, and there is no possibility some decades later.

If anyone disagrees with me, please find a baby for reference. Just stay away from your local playground.

I understand BBS to be a tongue in cheek name for a standard that is measured by other means, and is practically possible to achieve. Yet I can't get past the literal meaning of the term. My personal label for my best possible shave is DFS.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
If your beard along the jawline is E-W, and W-E like mine, I open my mouth fully, this moves the "underjaw" skin unto the "cheek-jaw" area, providing a large flat area to shave with a toward the ear (ATG), or toward the chin (WTG) stoke.

I need to do that on my right side at the side of my mouth and push the corner of my mouth out with my tongue lol. I need to stretch the skin very tight there, but not on the left.

The faces we all make while shaving must be hilarious haha.
 
Here is the problem for me too: Having changed my daughters' diapers I am certain there is nothing I could do to my face or any other area of skin to return it to that kind of perfect smoothness. I could not have done it when I was 13, and there is no possibility some decades later.

If anyone disagrees with me, please find a baby for reference. Just stay away from your local playground.

I understand BBS to be a tongue in cheek name for a standard that is measured by other means, and is practically possible to achieve. Yet I can't get past the literal meaning of the term. My personal label for my best possible shave is DFS.
I've never been examining that long. The sludge and aroma that accompanies said bottom has cut my time for inspection short. I would say that the smoothness might be doable, but not the softness.
 
If your beard along the jawline is E-W, and W-E like mine, I open my mouth fully, this moves the "underjaw" skin unto the "cheek-jaw" area, providing a large flat area to shave with a toward the ear (ATG), or toward the chin (WTG) stoke.

I think this is exactly what I have going on. I think for whatever reason my jawline is an E-W affair and I've been ***** footing around rather than working at it.

Tonight when I shave I'm going to open mouth technique and see how it goes. I have an alum bar so if I hit an artery I can stop the gusher.

Thanks for the tips.

NT
 
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