Well, I have written off the (faux?) tortoise scales for now, as I'm having a heck of a time getting the crack repair to take satisfactorily. So I made a set from walnut to replace the ugly butterscotch cell on my MK 3. Just testing out some finishes on a piece of scrap. Leaning toward polyurethane gloss at the moment.
What's on your work bench right now?
- Thread starter Luecke2326
- Start date
I finally finished the Wade & Butcher that I posted on May 16 at What's on your work bench right now? - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/whats-on-your-work-bench-right-now.503881/post-11770848.
Sanding the blade was the absolute limit of what I can do by hand. If there is a next one, it will be sent out to someone with a 72 x 2 grinder. I was able to fill the surface cracks in the front scale by the hinge pin with CA glue and sand them.
The blade and scales do not look like new, but I am happy with how the razor turned out. It has real character!
Sanding the blade was the absolute limit of what I can do by hand. If there is a next one, it will be sent out to someone with a 72 x 2 grinder. I was able to fill the surface cracks in the front scale by the hinge pin with CA glue and sand them.
The blade and scales do not look like new, but I am happy with how the razor turned out. It has real character!
Nice job, Matt (@Darth Scandalous) - beautifully shaped and I love the grain of the walnut!
Those blades look fantastic, @HazMat Shaver!
Nice work to both of you.
Got the scales sealed and buttoned up today.
Picked up a nice old Hirsch & Stern. Never heard of them before, but it's a pretty cool razor. They were exporters in Birmingham.
At first, I thought the scales to be some kind of plastic, but they appeared original and I believed the razor to be too old for that. Turned out to be horn. Here they are at 400. Yes, I saved some dust for hornpoxy!
At first, I thought the scales to be some kind of plastic, but they appeared original and I believed the razor to be too old for that. Turned out to be horn. Here they are at 400. Yes, I saved some dust for hornpoxy!
Finally got around to finishing these scales. I had a couple of setbacks as a couple didn't want to cure right. But in the end, I won. I have the wedges close to size so the final shaping and finishing of those are next. If a person was to charge hourly for the time it takes to make scales like this the cost would be way more than its worth. But it's fun to do so why not.
BTW, This is a Tru-oil finish. Not CA. Much more flexable.
BTW, This is a Tru-oil finish. Not CA. Much more flexable.
I hear you, brother! If only we had these machines that Herr Aust uses - starting around 0:45:
What woods are being used? All look great, but the ones on the right look like an amazing replacement for the typical yellow/tan plastic that you see so much of.
I find that Walnut often looks washed out and flat when simply sanded, but once you add a finish it really pops!
At first, I thought the scales to be some kind of plastic, but they appeared original and I believed the razor to be too old for that. Turned out to be horn.
Three pined, horn scales are usually an indicator of a “Quality” razor. If you need more dust for a repair, sand the inside. I does not take much for most repairs with CA.
Should hone up, nice find.
Three pined, horn scales are usually an indicator of a “Quality” razor. If you need more dust for a repair, sand the inside. I does not take much for most repairs with CA.
Should hone up, nice find.
I thought I posted the wood types? Oh well. Getting old I guess.
Left to right:
Rosewood, Black Oak or Walnut. I'm not sure now. And Sycamore.
Here they are pinned up and ready for the stones. On the Sycamore I lined the wedge in brass. But the color makes it harder to notice...
The below Erik Anton Berg just came off Doc226’s workbench. He cleaned it up and put on new bone scales.
I’m down to one razor on my workbench, but this arrived in the mail today from my father. It’s my grandfather‘s WW2 navy-issue knife. It‘s going to need some work. 
Western Cutlery, Boulder Colorado.
Western Cutlery, Boulder Colorado.That's a lovely trio you've got there.
Can I ask, with your wedge pins so far in on the razors, do you ever have problems with the very end not meeting properly/tightly?
I wonder did this ever dispatch anyone. Looking forward to seeing it done up.It’s my grandfather‘s WW2 navy-issue knife. It‘s going to need some work.
Probably not! While my grandfather was involved in numerous naval battles during his career, he mainly worked in the engine room, so getting the other guy to die for his country was someone else’s job.
While my grandfather was involved in numerous naval battles during his career, he mainly worked in the engine room, so getting the other guy to die for his country was someone else’s job.I believe that a wedge pin and pivot pin should be the same distance from the tips of the scales. I think this is standard in razor making of the past. I could be wrong.
But to answer your question, No. I don't have an issue with the wedge end not staying completely tight and opening up on the tip. And no, I don't glue wedges in place. Some people will do that.
If your wedge is made properly then the bow of the scales will help hold things tight. Now if you make a wedge that is too much of a wedge, this CAN happen. The things to remember in wedge-making are...
#1. The angle. It should be approximately the same angle from the pivot hole on your blade back towards the tail.
#2. The thickness of a wedge needs to be whatever you need to hold the blade in the proper position when it's closed. Too wide and the blade sinks way too far between the scales. Too narrow and the blade sits up too high when closed. Wedges are a little tricky to get right. But after a dozen or two there not too bad.
My lesson for the week. LOL.
