Are there any wedge grinds in current production? Looking through the sites selling new razors only revealed TI, DOVO, and Boker half, quareter, and full hollow. Is the best bet for a wedge a vintage razor?
Wedge Grind in Current Production?
- Thread starter redwoolf
- Start date
Vintage or custom
+1
I think Hart is making 1/4 - but that's about as close as you can get.
I think Hart is making 1/4 - but that's about as close as you can get.
My Hart is closer to a wedge than a quarter hollow, and I own several quarter hollow razors. Even vintage wedges usually have a bit of hollowing unless you can find a really old one, and lots of them were reground to give some hollow.
Other than a custom, the Hart is perhaps as close as you can come from current production sources.
Other than a custom, the Hart is perhaps as close as you can come from current production sources.
I am working on an old wade and butcher wedge now. It is very old. It is a full wedge, very large and heavy.
Not only is this thing not a hollow ground, the blade was bulging. I have been honing it for 2 nights straight now and I almost have the blade flattened to the point that the edge will start honing. I almost built up the spine with tape. But I finally decided to put the work into it and get it done right. This has been A LOT of work. I usually like a thicker blade. But this old wedge has made me appreciate at least some hollowness to a blade.
Not only is this thing not a hollow ground, the blade was bulging. I have been honing it for 2 nights straight now and I almost have the blade flattened to the point that the edge will start honing. I almost built up the spine with tape. But I finally decided to put the work into it and get it done right. This has been A LOT of work. I usually like a thicker blade. But this old wedge has made me appreciate at least some hollowness to a blade.
IMO, if the blade started out convex and you make it flat, you are not "getting it done right" - but that's just my opinion and it doesn't count for anything. I have seen blades that are convex and I've seen edges put on them. Very cool stuff.
I had an edge on it when I honed out the micro chips. I sharpened it like a pocket knife to do it though. I see two ways to do it: either the bevel is on the same angle as the blade and spine or it's not. For future use, it seems to me that it will be easier if the bevel is in-line with the spine. Believe me, it doesn't seem easier right now though.
There were very few if any true wedges ever made even in vintage models because you can't hone them because they will stick to the hone. I think the Sheffield vintage wedges work great and when you have good technique and a light touch, you can get a really smooth shave with them. I personally like the small wedges (4/8-5/8) because they are easy on my upper lip. If I had a mustache, I would use my 8/8 Greaves or W&B more. I just find them difficult to trim the upper lip.
