I have a Clauss Barbers Special that is pretty loose. The blade swings freely if you handle it. I’ve read posts on how to lightly peen for tightening and I have a jewelers hammer. Not exactly sure how old this straight is and I’m afraid I might damage the bone or split it. Has anyone had any experience tightening the pivot pin on bone scales? Or know if bone scales damage easy? Not sure what the best course of action is. I’d like to get it tighter so the blade is not flying out every time I pick it up wrong.
Thanks for any opinions you have
Tightening pivot pin on old bone scales
- Thread starter Okiewill
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
The diameter of the pivot pin hole in a straight razor shank is normally larger than the actual pivot pin diameter. What an engineer would call a rattling good fit. Most pivot pins are about 1.6mm diameter and the shank's pivot pin hole could be 2mm to 3mm diameter.
The friction applied to the blade shank is from how tightly the scales are help against the shank by the pivot pin. Your aim will be to slightly "shorten" the length of the pivot pin so that the scales hold the shank more tightly. This is achieved by gently tapping the end(s) of the pin to shorten it and/or slightly bend it within the shank's pivot pin hole.
You understand about about tapping the pivot pin end(s). The hard part is to do it just so much that you do not damage your bone scales.
My advice is to tap the pivot pin end(s) very gently. Take your time, even an hour of tapping if necessary, until the scales are just tight enough to you liking. That's about the best you can do.
It's also a good idea to put tape on the scales in way of the pivot pin so as to reduce the effect of your hammer touching the bone scale material.
The friction applied to the blade shank is from how tightly the scales are help against the shank by the pivot pin. Your aim will be to slightly "shorten" the length of the pivot pin so that the scales hold the shank more tightly. This is achieved by gently tapping the end(s) of the pin to shorten it and/or slightly bend it within the shank's pivot pin hole.
You understand about about tapping the pivot pin end(s). The hard part is to do it just so much that you do not damage your bone scales.
My advice is to tap the pivot pin end(s) very gently. Take your time, even an hour of tapping if necessary, until the scales are just tight enough to you liking. That's about the best you can do.
It's also a good idea to put tape on the scales in way of the pivot pin so as to reduce the effect of your hammer touching the bone scale material.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the detailed response. This is my most delicate feeling SR and I’m probably overly concerned about damaging it.
I thought the goal was to slightly increase the mushroom of the pin by peening it. You’re saying that the tightening effect will come from the pin slightly bending?
Jewelers hammers can have all sorts of configurations, so I don't know what yours is. Ideally, you want to use a ball-end, or ball pein/peen hammer. I use a 4 oz ball peen, also have a smaller lighter one that is all metal but I prefer the 4 oz model with a wood handle. I usually hold the hammer right below the head so i can control the force.
Yes, if you miss the pin and you are using too much pressure and you miss, it is possible to damage the razor.
I wouldn't say bone scales damage easily but most scales are thin and stiff and not designed to absorb serious direct impact.
There are videos on YT that show pinning... it's not hard but to do it successfully one does need some hand-eye coordination and an understanding of applied force.
Pins can bend when they are not peened correctly, which causes more issues. Sometimes this happens when the blows to the pin are not done all around the circumference of the head. So all the force is in on place and the pin bends. It is important to do this work as evenly as possible.
But don't make more out of it than what it is - it is fairly easy to do. Start slow, go light, and don't try to get it all done in two taps.
Bone, or any material really, you just have to spend some time, and apply many glancing taps/blows to the pin and work both sides so the tension is applied equally. I usually tape the blade in when I do it. Have done bone many times, it's not difficult.
If that was my razor though, I'd might consider removing the existing pin out so I could clean up the inside, make sure there are thrust washers, add a micro dot of oil to the pivot hole and then repin.
It might make sense to get a beater razor to practice on.
Or send it to a razor smith for a minor overhaul.
Yes, if you miss the pin and you are using too much pressure and you miss, it is possible to damage the razor.
I wouldn't say bone scales damage easily but most scales are thin and stiff and not designed to absorb serious direct impact.
There are videos on YT that show pinning... it's not hard but to do it successfully one does need some hand-eye coordination and an understanding of applied force.
Pins can bend when they are not peened correctly, which causes more issues. Sometimes this happens when the blows to the pin are not done all around the circumference of the head. So all the force is in on place and the pin bends. It is important to do this work as evenly as possible.
But don't make more out of it than what it is - it is fairly easy to do. Start slow, go light, and don't try to get it all done in two taps.
Bone, or any material really, you just have to spend some time, and apply many glancing taps/blows to the pin and work both sides so the tension is applied equally. I usually tape the blade in when I do it. Have done bone many times, it's not difficult.
If that was my razor though, I'd might consider removing the existing pin out so I could clean up the inside, make sure there are thrust washers, add a micro dot of oil to the pivot hole and then repin.
It might make sense to get a beater razor to practice on.
Or send it to a razor smith for a minor overhaul.
- Thread starter
- #5
I have a tiny ball peen and a dome faced jewelers hammer. Think I’m covered there. I do have several beater razors, that’s a good recommendation. I’ll practice my aim on one of them. Maybe I’ll luck out and one will be loose!
Was mostly concerned about the bone being brittle or easily damaged because of its age. This is a favorite razor of mine, wasn’t overly expensive, its just a nice shaver and I like the aesthetics. So sending it off is not a bad idea. If I can’t tighten it up fairly easily that may be my next step.
Thanks for the help!
Tap on the back side peen 2 or 3 times and check it. Think about how much of a tap on your thumb it would take before you said ouch! Don't hit any harder than that.
If it's not tighter after 3 taps turn it over and tap the other side 3 to 5 times and check. If it's not tighter tap more but watch the scales. Remember to hold the back side peen on an anvil or side of a hammer. You need a solid backer!You may bend the pin and that would make the scales out of alignment with each other.
But looking at the peen on the front side of your pic I'd say it's in good shape.
One other thing that can make it harder to tighten is if it has plastic washers between the scales and the blade. Metal washers inside are fine but the plastic one can cause issues with crushing and loosing the tightness.
Go for it. Yes bone can be brittle but it's not like your dealing with Ivory.
If it's not tighter after 3 taps turn it over and tap the other side 3 to 5 times and check. If it's not tighter tap more but watch the scales. Remember to hold the back side peen on an anvil or side of a hammer. You need a solid backer!You may bend the pin and that would make the scales out of alignment with each other.
But looking at the peen on the front side of your pic I'd say it's in good shape.
One other thing that can make it harder to tighten is if it has plastic washers between the scales and the blade. Metal washers inside are fine but the plastic one can cause issues with crushing and loosing the tightness.
Go for it. Yes bone can be brittle but it's not like your dealing with Ivory.
Nice razor, love Clauss razors have several, great shavers. Yes, bone is/can be more brittle than horn or some plastics. But not crazy brittle.
When you tighten a pin, you want to expand the head and shorten the pin length, so the pin squeezes the pivot against the thrust washers and the tang/pin hole.
As the head expands the pin that is under the head and inside the scales also expands, if it expands too much it can crack the scale.
Place the razor with the back side of the pivot pin on an anvil, or chunk of steel so all the energy from the hammer blow goes where you direct it, around the head of the pin. Small lite taps from the ball of a ball peen hammer around the head will mushroom the head slightly and tighten the pin.
It does not take much, tap from one side, check for tightness. If needed flip and tap the back side. Keep checking and once the blade will remain in the open position, you are done.
I use a 2,4- or 6-ounce, a polished head ball peen hammer, they all work. Never had luck with the spoon trick. The larger the hammer the lighter the blow. The trick is to check often for tightness.
Loose scales are dangerous to hone, strop and shave with. Some razors do not use pins, peened on both sides. They use an escutcheon pin, a nail with a stamped collar, the back side is peened with a collar.
If you hit the escutcheon pin side the pin will never tighten, you run the risk of bending the pin or cracking the scales. Examine the razor pins to ensure it does not have an escutcheon pin, Clauss did not use Escutcheon pins on their razors from the factory.
When you tighten a pin, you want to expand the head and shorten the pin length, so the pin squeezes the pivot against the thrust washers and the tang/pin hole.
As the head expands the pin that is under the head and inside the scales also expands, if it expands too much it can crack the scale.
Place the razor with the back side of the pivot pin on an anvil, or chunk of steel so all the energy from the hammer blow goes where you direct it, around the head of the pin. Small lite taps from the ball of a ball peen hammer around the head will mushroom the head slightly and tighten the pin.
It does not take much, tap from one side, check for tightness. If needed flip and tap the back side. Keep checking and once the blade will remain in the open position, you are done.
I use a 2,4- or 6-ounce, a polished head ball peen hammer, they all work. Never had luck with the spoon trick. The larger the hammer the lighter the blow. The trick is to check often for tightness.
Loose scales are dangerous to hone, strop and shave with. Some razors do not use pins, peened on both sides. They use an escutcheon pin, a nail with a stamped collar, the back side is peened with a collar.
If you hit the escutcheon pin side the pin will never tighten, you run the risk of bending the pin or cracking the scales. Examine the razor pins to ensure it does not have an escutcheon pin, Clauss did not use Escutcheon pins on their razors from the factory.
- Thread starter
- #8
There is some slight green discoloration inside the scales at the pivot so that tells me the washers might be brass. Going to give this a shot this weekend. Thanks for the help!
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks, I really do love this razor. It’s my only Clauss and my only bone clad razor. But you’re right on the money, stropping, shaving and just picking it up feels dangerous while it’s like this. I haven’t used it in a while because of that. Time to get this one back in rotation.
All these excellent replies have given me a very good idea of what to expect. I plan on going slow and checking the movement after 3 taps. Flip and go again.
Thanks!
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
The main thing is not to get impatient.
If you don't see improvement after 6 or 10 taps on each side then it's going to need repaired to fix. It's then time to learn to re-pin a razor.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
My favorite razor peening hammer is a spoon. Can't miss. The smaller the hammer, the easier to miss the pin. A lump of JBWeld in the spoon bowl gives it just the right heft. I use very sharp raps rather than little tippity-taps. You don't want big thudding blows, which tend to bend the pin. Sharp but not too heavy blows will do more to actually re-shape the head and shorten the pin. As you work, whatever method or tool you use, keep checking continuously. If you have a set of feeler gauges, you can keep track of your progress.
