The World Shave Off Showdown

[BigJ]

Shave Off complete:

Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC vs Gillette Aristocrat 1936

Sorry it's taken as long as it did to post this Shave Off up but I've been battling a really bad case of the flu all week and boy it knocked the heck out of me and all I've wanted to do is rest and sleep. Feeling better but still half in the bag and heading to the Docs on Monday.

I did this Shave Off yesterday morning shortly after getting up. After shaving for 4 days I was a bit worried that both of these razors would have some difficulty taking it down in 2 passes as I'd normally choose a razor that would be more efficient than these two like a Level 3 Charcoal, Ikon Tech for example but I'm not chasing a BBS I'm testing these razors for smoothness not efficiency. Both of these razors to me are just beautiful razor in different ways. The US 1936 Aristocrat is one of my favorite US models along with the 1934 and I just got this one back from Cap and Chris as I had the razor out to them for a cleaning and at first I was just going to have the doors replated and Chris messaged me saying he thought I might want to consider doing the whole razor as there was some brassing he saw that I didn't so I gave him the green light and wow it came back looking like it was brand new. Cap went over the whole razor to make sure it was clean inside and aligned properly so when I got it back it had that new razor squeak that a TTO razor would have when new. Very pleased as usual with their work. The Charcoal Goods Level 2 is almost 2yrs old as I've had my level 3 OC since it was first released a few yrs back. Brian makes in my opinion the most artfully crafted razors out there. His handles are so unique and this Level 2 has an Anchor handle which I really like. Both head and handle are antique finished like my Level 3 and the finish has held up great. As per Brian's instructions I rinse and blot the razor dry ( NEVER WIPE DRY ) and now and then give it a coating of also recommended by Brian Renaissance wax. The two razors are night and day different as one is a 3 piece and the other a TTO. The CG is a longer and overall heavier razor. CG is 102 grams while the Crat is only 68 grams so both have a completely different feel to them..but thing is I like them both a lot!

NOTE: for all you CG fans over a year ago I was on the phone with Brian as we talk now and then and I was saying if you ever redesign the head think about making the baseplate flat like a New Deluxe instead of the New type which is the current head we all know and love. My reasoning was for better blade support and maybe it would give a bit more blade rigidity than the current head does. Well I don't know if I had any influence whatsoever on his idea of a new head as he already had the idea as he and I talked about a new head in the future but he just announced the release of a new head and it has a flat baseplate so all I know is he's coming out with the level 2 first and will be adding other levels down the road. I'm really excited to try the new head but I'm going to wait until he comes out with the Level 3 baseplate and this time I'm going to get a SB for a little diversity. Just thought I'd share that with any CG fans out there.

On with the Shave Off

Gear used:
Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC
Gillette 1936 US Aristocrat
Capt Choice Copper shaving bowl
Paladin Two band brush
WSP Olympus Shave Soap
WSP Olympus Aftershave splash
Kai razor blades hand stroped


Shave plan: I decided to do 2 passes going WTG and ATG as to me a razor really gives me the most feedback on how smooth it shaves doing these 2 passes. Also as normal I sectioned my face in 4 sections with each razor getting 1 section on each side of my face to make things fair. Also as normal I'm using my SSSST using no pressure whatsoever.

1st Pass - WTG - I started out with the Gillette Aristocrat going N to S and I'll be honest it was taking down my stubble pretty darn good considering 4 full days growth even thought it seemed to be working hard to do it. Blade feel was there as I remember it to be using the 36 in the past US vs England Aristocrat Showdown so nothing has changed there and it was also singing a decently loud song as far as audible feedback goes but it wasn't harsh feeling just to be clear. It was also as all my Aristocrats are very maneuverable razors as this one did very well around my mouth and under my nose. Also I'll note to me the Aristocrat barberpole handle to me is one of the best ever designed not to mention they are beauties in my opinion. So an overall good pass. Next up was the CG L 2 as I continued down my neck and from the first few strokes I knew that the CG was more efficient but blade feel at this point was even more than the Crat but not by much. Audible feedback was not quite as loud as the Crat but close. So it didn't seem to labor as much taking down my 4 days growth but my guess is because the blade is not held very rigid it makes more noise than if it did. The Kai blade was performing as normal and is one of my favorites behind the Feather. So finished the pass and it was also a good one so far and smoothness as pretty much a tie at this point between the two razors. So with the CG in hand I headed over to the other side and began my N to S pass on my face and I noticed on this pass the efficiency difference between the two even more with the CG being the leader and it was another good pass. Picked up the Aristocrat to continue the WTG pass on my neck and this side is easier than the other side which has that nasty cowlick and some really weird beard growth so this pass was the easiest of the 4 sections and the Crat did a good job but still from the sound was working hard. So a good WTG pass from both razors. Rinsed and lathered up for the ATG Pass.


2nd Pass - ATG - So starting at the base of my neck with the CG L 2 I gave my skin a good stretch using my hand towel and started my S to N journey upwards and it was noticeable that the CG quilted down and there was less blade feel than there was on the WTG pass. I could feel the razor taking the stubble down as it moved upward to under my jawline which is were it was the Aristocrats turn to finish this pass on my face. It was here that I noticed the difference in smoothness as the blade feel and audible feedback although it to had quitted down it was not as noticeable as it was with the CG on this ATG pass so I felt it was slightly falling behind the CG in both smoothness and efficiency but it was as far as maneuverability goes this is where is excelled especially around my mouth and under my nose where I did a XTG as I didn't feel like going ATG under my nose as it was a little raw from having a bad cold/flu. So with this pass more info came out than on the WTG pass and so I went over to the other side of my face and not to be redundant it was pretty much the same thing as on the other side. So the Shave Off was over.

Post Shave: Rinsed my face with warm then cold water. Went to the fridge and splashed a little Thayers unscented on and let it dry while cleaning my gear. Then splashed on some WSP Olympus aftershave which to me is the closest to actual Creed Aventus so far of all the other dupes I've tried. Also I'll note the Formula T is my favorite WSP soap is an overall good performer.

Scores:

Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC

1. Smoothness = 49 points
2. Efficiency = 16 points
3. Balance = 6 points
4. Maneuverability = 3 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 78 points

1936 US Aristocrat

1. Smoothness = 44 points
2. Efficiency = 14 points
3. Balance = 8 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 73 points


Summary:

So we have a winner by points scored it's the Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC! This was a fairly close one but I will say both razors had to deal with a solid 4 days growth and I'd say they both handled it pretty good. I ended up with a solid DFS with a couple of spots on my upper cheek where it felt entry level BBS. I'm not sure if the results would have been different though they might be with only 2 days growth but in this Shave Off the Charcoal was the winner and with the more efficient and in my opinion smoother British 1st and 2nd Gens in this competition who knows if the CG will meet up with one of those and see how it compares. We've got a long way to go and I feel like I lost at least 1 Shave Off because of me being sick but I should be back on track doing Shave Offs moving forward.

Thanks all and great Shaves my friends!

DB


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Great shave off!! Love the Aristocrat!! (So I would gladly take the ‘loser’ here, its is a beauty!!)

 

[BigJ]

Shave Off complete:

Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC vs Gillette Aristocrat 1936

Sorry it's taken as long as it did to post this Shave Off up but I've been battling a really bad case of the flu all week and boy it knocked the heck out of me and all I've wanted to do is rest and sleep. Feeling better but still half in the bag and heading to the Docs on Monday.

I did this Shave Off yesterday morning shortly after getting up. After shaving for 4 days I was a bit worried that both of these razors would have some difficulty taking it down in 2 passes as I'd normally choose a razor that would be more efficient than these two like a Level 3 Charcoal, Ikon Tech for example but I'm not chasing a BBS I'm testing these razors for smoothness not efficiency. Both of these razors to me are just beautiful razor in different ways. The US 1936 Aristocrat is one of my favorite US models along with the 1934 and I just got this one back from Cap and Chris as I had the razor out to them for a cleaning and at first I was just going to have the doors replated and Chris messaged me saying he thought I might want to consider doing the whole razor as there was some brassing he saw that I didn't so I gave him the green light and wow it came back looking like it was brand new. Cap went over the whole razor to make sure it was clean inside and aligned properly so when I got it back it had that new razor squeak that a TTO razor would have when new. Very pleased as usual with their work. The Charcoal Goods Level 2 is almost 2yrs old as I've had my level 3 OC since it was first released a few yrs back. Brian makes in my opinion the most artfully crafted razors out there. His handles are so unique and this Level 2 has an Anchor handle which I really like. Both head and handle are antique finished like my Level 3 and the finish has held up great. As per Brian's instructions I rinse and blot the razor dry ( NEVER WIPE DRY ) and now and then give it a coating of also recommended by Brian Renaissance wax. The two razors are night and day different as one is a 3 piece and the other a TTO. The CG is a longer and overall heavier razor. CG is 102 grams while the Crat is only 68 grams so both have a completely different feel to them..but thing is I like them both a lot!

NOTE: for all you CG fans over a year ago I was on the phone with Brian as we talk now and then and I was saying if you ever redesign the head think about making the baseplate flat like a New Deluxe instead of the New type which is the current head we all know and love. My reasoning was for better blade support and maybe it would give a bit more blade rigidity than the current head does. Well I don't know if I had any influence whatsoever on his idea of a new head as he already had the idea as he and I talked about a new head in the future but he just announced the release of a new head and it has a flat baseplate so all I know is he's coming out with the level 2 first and will be adding other levels down the road. I'm really excited to try the new head but I'm going to wait until he comes out with the Level 3 baseplate and this time I'm going to get a SB for a little diversity. Just thought I'd share that with any CG fans out there.

On with the Shave Off

Gear used:
Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC
Gillette 1936 US Aristocrat
Capt Choice Copper shaving bowl
Paladin Two band brush
WSP Olympus Shave Soap
WSP Olympus Aftershave splash
Kai razor blades hand stroped


Shave plan: I decided to do 2 passes going WTG and ATG as to me a razor really gives me the most feedback on how smooth it shaves doing these 2 passes. Also as normal I sectioned my face in 4 sections with each razor getting 1 section on each side of my face to make things fair. Also as normal I'm using my SSSST using no pressure whatsoever.

1st Pass - WTG - I started out with the Gillette Aristocrat going N to S and I'll be honest it was taking down my stubble pretty darn good considering 4 full days growth even thought it seemed to be working hard to do it. Blade feel was there as I remember it to be using the 36 in the past US vs England Aristocrat Showdown so nothing has changed there and it was also singing a decently loud song as far as audible feedback goes but it wasn't harsh feeling just to be clear. It was also as all my Aristocrats are very maneuverable razors as this one did very well around my mouth and under my nose. Also I'll note to me the Aristocrat barberpole handle to me is one of the best ever designed not to mention they are beauties in my opinion. So an overall good pass. Next up was the CG L 2 as I continued down my neck and from the first few strokes I knew that the CG was more efficient but blade feel at this point was even more than the Crat but not by much. Audible feedback was not quite as loud as the Crat but close. So it didn't seem to labor as much taking down my 4 days growth but my guess is because the blade is not held very rigid it makes more noise than if it did. The Kai blade was performing as normal and is one of my favorites behind the Feather. So finished the pass and it was also a good one so far and smoothness as pretty much a tie at this point between the two razors. So with the CG in hand I headed over to the other side and began my N to S pass on my face and I noticed on this pass the efficiency difference between the two even more with the CG being the leader and it was another good pass. Picked up the Aristocrat to continue the WTG pass on my neck and this side is easier than the other side which has that nasty cowlick and some really weird beard growth so this pass was the easiest of the 4 sections and the Crat did a good job but still from the sound was working hard. So a good WTG pass from both razors. Rinsed and lathered up for the ATG Pass.


2nd Pass - ATG - So starting at the base of my neck with the CG L 2 I gave my skin a good stretch using my hand towel and started my S to N journey upwards and it was noticeable that the CG quilted down and there was less blade feel than there was on the WTG pass. I could feel the razor taking the stubble down as it moved upward to under my jawline which is were it was the Aristocrats turn to finish this pass on my face. It was here that I noticed the difference in smoothness as the blade feel and audible feedback although it to had quitted down it was not as noticeable as it was with the CG on this ATG pass so I felt it was slightly falling behind the CG in both smoothness and efficiency but it was as far as maneuverability goes this is where is excelled especially around my mouth and under my nose where I did a XTG as I didn't feel like going ATG under my nose as it was a little raw from having a bad cold/flu. So with this pass more info came out than on the WTG pass and so I went over to the other side of my face and not to be redundant it was pretty much the same thing as on the other side. So the Shave Off was over.

Post Shave: Rinsed my face with warm then cold water. Went to the fridge and splashed a little Thayers unscented on and let it dry while cleaning my gear. Then splashed on some WSP Olympus aftershave which to me is the closest to actual Creed Aventus so far of all the other dupes I've tried. Also I'll note the Formula T is my favorite WSP soap is an overall good performer.

Scores:

Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC

1. Smoothness = 49 points
2. Efficiency = 16 points
3. Balance = 6 points
4. Maneuverability = 3 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 78 points

1936 US Aristocrat

1. Smoothness = 44 points
2. Efficiency = 14 points
3. Balance = 8 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 73 points


Summary:

So we have a winner by points scored it's the Charcoal Goods Level 2 OC! This was a fairly close one but I will say both razors had to deal with a solid 4 days growth and I'd say they both handled it pretty good. I ended up with a solid DFS with a couple of spots on my upper cheek where it felt entry level BBS. I'm not sure if the results would have been different though they might be with only 2 days growth but in this Shave Off the Charcoal was the winner and with the more efficient and in my opinion smoother British 1st and 2nd Gens in this competition who knows if the CG will meet up with one of those and see how it compares. We've got a long way to go and I feel like I lost at least 1 Shave Off because of me being sick but I should be back on track doing Shave Offs moving forward.

Thanks all and great Shaves my friends!

DB


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GET WELL!!

 

[Ray Settanta]

I had hoped that you wouldn’t enable me to purchase any razors from this shave-off since I have both of them. But you got me again! I looked at the nice pics and decided to check out the CG website. I picked up a Massive handle in copper. Thanks again, Frank. Hope you feel better soon.

 

[muzichead]

Hey Frank, where can I find more info on your SSSST method? You got a blog or journal?

 

[Parallax]

I had hoped that you wouldn’t enable me to purchase any razors from this shave-off since I have both of them. But you got me again! I looked at the nice pics and decided to check out the CG website. I picked up a Massive handle in copper. Thanks again, Frank. Hope you feel better soon.

The copper Charcoal Goods Torpedo handle was my gateway to high-end razor addiction. When I first saw this piece of eye candy, I dismissed it as ridiculous. Showed a picture to my wife. She encouraged me to buy it. I said, "What do I need it for? Doesn't even go with any of my razors and I can't buy the matching head." She said, "Your heart wants it."

So I bought it and it sat in a drawer (though I have to admit it gave me a certain satisfaction, just sitting there). Then Scott (@pbrmhl) generously lent me his CGL3 OC head and I had a chance to use it and see what's it's all about. Was funny because while the thing looked ridiculous on any other razor in my den, on his antique brass head it looked right at home.

Scott later brought me in on his CGL3 purchase after he'd staked out a position on the wait list for 600 years. The result is I now have my grail razor, a very shiny SB CGL3. The SB choice came in large measure because James (@loot) lent me his Wolfman WR1 .94 SB, which shaved like a dream. A few encouraging words from Brian sealed the deal and the resultant razor, once in hand, did not disappoint. What's the opposite of disappoint? Whatever that word is -- it did that! I guess I should say it thrilled me. It still thrills me. Even just the thought of it.

James swears that the Wolfman is more efficient than the CGL3. My experience is opposite. Either way, the two razors are almost identical in terms of efficiency, blade feel and smoothness. Each hits the ball out of the park. To my eye the copper CGL3 is the true work of art, the Wolfman a bit too homogeneous Midwestern in its shiny, clean cut appeal -- but I know this is a minority opinion.

 

[Cal]

Hey Frank, where can I find more info on your SSSST method? You got a blog or journal?

SSSST
It's here, post #43 (on page 3) muzichead.

 

[muzichead]

SSSST
It's here, post #43 (on page 3) muzichead.

I will have more coming but for now did you go back to Post 43 as @Cal suggested. Also if you have any questions on it please feel free to contact me and I can be of more help. I've actually talked a few members through using the technique over the phone! LOL

Thank you both...

 

[jmudrick]

The copper Charcoal Goods Torpedo handle was my gateway to high-end razor addiction. When I first saw this piece of eye candy, I dismissed it as ridiculous. Showed a picture to my wife. She encouraged me to buy it. I said, "What do I need it for? Doesn't even go with any of my razors and I can't buy the matching head." She said, "Your heart wants it."

So I bought it and it sat in a drawer (though I have to admit it gave me a certain satisfaction, just sitting there). Then Scott (@pbrmhl) generously lent me his CGL3 OC head and I had a chance to use it and see what's it's all about. Was funny because while the thing looked ridiculous on any other razor in my den, on his antique brass head it looked right at home.

Scott later brought me in on his CGL3 purchase after he'd staked out a position on the wait list for 600 years. The result is I now have my grail razor, a very shiny SB CGL3. The SB choice came in large measure because James (@loot) lent me his Wolfman WR1 .94 SB, which shaved like a dream. A few encouraging words from Brian sealed the deal and the resultant razor, once in hand, did not disappoint. What's the opposite of disappoint? Whatever that word is -- it did that! I guess I should say it thrilled me. It still thrills me. Even just the thought of it.

James swears that the Wolfman is more efficient than the CGL3. My experience is opposite. Either way, the two razors are almost identical in terms of efficiency, blade feel and smoothness. Each hits the ball out of the park. To my eye the copper CGL3 is the true work of art, the Wolfman a bit too homogeneous Midwestern in its shiny, clean cut appeal -- but I know this is a minority opinion.

It's not surprising to see different takes on efficiency between the CG3 and Wolfman as they are entirely different approaches to razor design . I know from experience with both types that the rigid Wolfman would handle ATG on my head superbly where the CG would likely fail as did the Blackbird. On my beard, which is not as challenging my preference might be switched.

 

[jmudrick]

I've got a lot of Shave time in with the WR1 .94 DC and a lot more time with the CG Level 3 OC and if I'm comparing efficiency I definitely would say OC to OC the WR1 is a bit more efficient. SB to OC it would almost be dead even. So true the blade in the WR1 is held a lot more rigid and according to most head shavers I've talked to they like a rigidly held blade for head shaving. I'm sure you'd like the .94 WR1 DC and it's going out on lend tomorrow but when it returns if you'd like to try it and compare you're welcome to take if for a spin or two.

Why yessir of course.

 

[Parallax]

So glad you got that razor and did you see Brians coming out with his new baseplate. Only in Level 2 in brushed SS for now but I'm sure a level 3 will be in the future. Should be interesting to see how the new baseplate performs.

When I spoke with Brian, he said the new version will shave identically as the old. Changes are entirely aesthetic. At least that he's shooting for. I know nothing about razor architecture or how hard that is to achieve.

 

[Ray Settanta]

Did you get the Magnum handle? Love that handle only I've got it in brass.
Congrats Ray!

Yes, I misspoke. I meant to say magnum handle. Although it IS massive. Now I have one in brass and one in copper.

 

[User 306]

UPDATE: Shave Off complete!

Gillette Red Tip vs British Aristocrat 2nd Gen SB

I had some time today and since it's been a full 2 days I decided to do a nice Sunday afternoon Shave Off using two vintage razors from the list. The Red tip was so generously sent to my by @Twelvefret and it's a beauty in excellent working conditon. The Aristocrat is from my own personal collection and it's also in excellent conditon and was professionally cleaned and aligned by Cap as were all my Crats and adjustables. Weight is a little different even though their size looks very similar with the Aristocrat weighing in at 77 gram and the Red Tip at 64 grams. I couldn't wait to take these two for a spin in this Shave Off.

So if anyone remembers the Aristocrat Shave Off I did over a year ago the British 2nd Gen SB came in 2nd only two it's OC brother the 1st Gen OC sometimes referred to as a #15. Plated in Rhodium with nickel plated doors it's a real looker to my eyes. I figured I'd give the Red Tip and challenge with the Crat as from what I've gathered the Red Tip is the most efficient of the Blue, Black and Red Tips. So this should be a good one with 2 days of growth to mow down.

Decided to do a 2 pass Shave Off using a WTG pass and then a ATG pass. 4 sections of my face divided into one for each razor on each side of my face and neck to keep things far. I used the 2 once used Kai blades as they are still very sharp so good to go!

Gear used:
Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen SB
Gillette Red Tip
Mike's Natural Barbershop shave soap
Mike's Natural Barbershop aftershave splash
Kai blades
Fine Shaving brush and shaving bowl

Shave Off

1st Pass - WTG - So Started out on my right side with the Crat and I had forgotten how efficient and yet super smooth this razor is as it just mowed down my growth like is wasn't even there. Love the feel of this razor! It's very maneuverable and it's a breeze shaving around my mouth and nose with this razor. So finished up the pass and what a excellent one it was. Next up is the Red Tip and I continued down my neck with the nasty cowlicks on it but it didn't seem to deter the RT and it gave me what I'd call a nice 1st pass. So with it in hand I headed over to the other side of my face and began my N to S pass and again it took down stubble nicely. I then grabbed the 2nd Gen Crat and continued downward on my neck. WOW is all I've got to say can you say like a hot knife slicing through butter. This was my first time using a Kai in an Aristocrat as I usually use Polsilver but I may have found a new combo I like better. Another excellent pass. So at this point here is the summary the Red Tip has a bit more blade feel than the Crat but not as efficient or as smooth. With that said let me be perfectly clear. The Red Tip is very smooth and nicely efficient and would make a great daily shaver for sure and if this were a daily work shave I could have just stopped after the 1st pass and been happy but I have to kept going as I know things can change on the ATG pass when it comes to smoothness.

2nd Pass ATG - So starting at the base of my right side neck with the Red Tip I gave my skin a good stretch and headed north and this was a good pass for the Red Tip. Again a bit more blade feel than the 2nd Gen but still smooth and it was efficiently taking down my 2 day growth nicely. Continuing upward with the Aristocrat I knew immediately that in this case I may have picked the wrong Aristocrat to match up against the Red Tip as it is just being flat out outperformed by the 2nd Gen in efficiency and smoothness. I think it would have matched up better up against the US 1936 I shaved with in the last Shave Off. With that said I still finished up the ATG pass with both razors and then rinsed and did a quick hand feel. it was clear I had a mixed BBS/DFS from the Red Tip depending on the area while the 2nd Gen Got me a mixed shave as well only it was a Level 2 BBS/Level 1 BBS again depending on the area. So I decided to lather up once more with a thin coating and do a buffing pass with the 2nd Gen in the areas that the Red Tip Shaved just so my beard grows out even. Rinsed again and I did another face feel and I was evenly shaved.

Summary - Before I get to the scoring system I'd like to say I think a lot of us me included sometime forget how well some of the vintage razors shave. Yes some are very old and they need to be cleaned and aligned but once in sync they can give a lot of the modern razors a run for their money. I can think of a few modern razors some being high priced that might take 2nd place to this Aristocrat in this type of Shave Off and they may find that out as we move forward and a couple may also have a hard time with the Red Tip in keeping up. I had a Feather DS 1 that I'm sure the Red Tip would have beaten in a Shave Off both in efficiency and smoothness. Of course this is my opinion of course.

Post Shave thoughts: I have to say I'm a sucker for Barbershop scents and Mike's Naturals is one of my favorites and I always get a good clean shave out of his soaps. It slightly lacks in residual glide compared to some others I use but i didn't do any reverse Skin Stretching so it didn't matter much in this Shave Off. I did feel the need to put on a little dab of unscented moisturizing aftershave lotion after my Thayers and then when it all dried up is when I used the aftershave splash and now my face feels great and I smell good.


Score:

Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen

1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 16 points
3. Balance = 8 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 4 points

Total score = 84 points

Gillette Red Tip

1. Smoothness = 48 points
2. Efficiency = 13 points
3. Balance = 7 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 75 points


So a big Congrats to the Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen on the win and I'll say some modems better watch their backs this razor is not to be taken lightly.

Great Shaves my friends!

DB

 

[Sharp_Obsession]

UPDATE: Shave Off complete!

Gillette Red Tip vs British Aristocrat 2nd Gen SB

I had some time today and since it's been a full 2 days I decided to do a nice Sunday afternoon Shave Off using two vintage razors from the list. The Red tip was so generously sent to my by @Twelvefret and it's a beauty in excellent working conditon. The Aristocrat is from my own personal collection and it's also in excellent conditon and was professionally cleaned and aligned by Cap as were all my Crats and adjustables. Weight is a little different even though their size looks very similar with the Aristocrat weighing in at 77 gram and the Red Tip at 64 grams. I couldn't wait to take these two for a spin in this Shave Off.

So if anyone remembers the Aristocrat Shave Off I did over a year ago the British 2nd Gen SB came in 2nd only two it's OC brother the 1st Gen OC sometimes referred to as a #15. Plated in Rhodium with nickel plated doors it's a real looker to my eyes. I figured I'd give the Red Tip and challenge with the Crat as from what I've gathered the Red Tip is the most efficient of the Blue, Black and Red Tips. So this should be a good one with 2 days of growth to mow down.

Decided to do a 2 pass Shave Off using a WTG pass and then a ATG pass. 4 sections of my face divided into one for each razor on each side of my face and neck to keep things far. I used the 2 once used Kai blades as they are still very sharp so good to go!

Gear used:
Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen SB
Gillette Red Tip
Mike's Natural Barbershop shave soap
Mike's Natural Barbershop aftershave splash
Kai blades
Fine Shaving brush and shaving bowl

Shave Off

1st Pass - WTG - So Started out on my right side with the Crat and I had forgotten how efficient and yet super smooth this razor is as it just mowed down my growth like is wasn't even there. Love the feel of this razor! It's very maneuverable and it's a breeze shaving around my mouth and nose with this razor. So finished up the pass and what a excellent one it was. Next up is the Red Tip and I continued down my neck with the nasty cowlicks on it but it didn't seem to deter the RT and it gave me what I'd call a nice 1st pass. So with it in hand I headed over to the other side of my face and began my N to S pass and again it took down stubble nicely. I then grabbed the 2nd Gen Crat and continued downward on my neck. WOW is all I've got to say can you say like a hot knife slicing through butter. This was my first time using a Kai in an Aristocrat as I usually use Polsilver but I may have found a new combo I like better. Another excellent pass. So at this point here is the summary the Red Tip has a bit more blade feel than the Crat but not as efficient or as smooth. With that said let me be perfectly clear. The Red Tip is very smooth and nicely efficient and would make a great daily shaver for sure and if this were a daily work shave I could have just stopped after the 1st pass and been happy but I have to kept going as I know things can change on the ATG pass when it comes to smoothness.

2nd Pass ATG - So starting at the base of my right side neck with the Red Tip I gave my skin a good stretch and headed north and this was a good pass for the Red Tip. Again a bit more blade feel than the 2nd Gen but still smooth and it was efficiently taking down my 2 day growth nicely. Continuing upward with the Aristocrat I knew immediately that in this case I may have picked the wrong Aristocrat to match up against the Red Tip as it is just being flat out outperformed by the 2nd Gen in efficiency and smoothness. I think it would have matched up better up against the US 1936 I shaved with in the last Shave Off. With that said I still finished up the ATG pass with both razors and then rinsed and did a quick hand feel. it was clear I had a mixed BBS/DFS from the Red Tip depending on the area while the 2nd Gen Got me a mixed shave as well only it was a Level 2 BBS/Level 1 BBS again depending on the area. So I decided to lather up once more with a thin coating and do a buffing pass with the 2nd Gen in the areas that the Red Tip Shaved just so my beard grows out even. Rinsed again and I did another face feel and I was evenly shaved.

Summary - Before I get to the scoring system I'd like to say I think a lot of us me included sometime forget how well some of the vintage razors shave. Yes some are very old and they need to be cleaned and aligned but once in sync they can give a lot of the modern razors a run for their money. I can think of a few modern razors some being high priced that might take 2nd place to this Aristocrat in this type of Shave Off and they may find that out as we move forward and a couple may also have a hard time with the Red Tip in keeping up. I had a Feather DS 1 that I'm sure the Red Tip would have beaten in a Shave Off both in efficiency and smoothness. Of course this is my opinion of course.

Post Shave thoughts: I have to say I'm a sucker for Barbershop scents and Mike's Naturals is one of my favorites and I always get a good clean shave out of his soaps. It slightly lacks in residual glide compared to some others I use but i didn't do any reverse Skin Stretching so it didn't matter much in this Shave Off. I did feel the need to put on a little dab of unscented moisturizing aftershave lotion after my Thayers and then when it all dried up is when I used the aftershave splash and now my face feels great and I smell good.


Score:

Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen

1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 16 points
3. Balance = 8 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 4 points

Total score = 84 points

Gillette Red Tip

1. Smoothness = 48 points
2. Efficiency = 13 points
3. Balance = 7 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 3 points

Total score = 75 points


So a big Congrats to the Gillette Aristocrat 2nd Gen on the win and I'll say some modems better watch their backs this razor is not to be taken lightly.

Great Shaves my friends!

DB

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Awesome review Frank. I’m so excited, that is the Crat I have shipping to me as we speak.

Interesting now that we are a few reviews into this Smoothest competition with the scoring system. I’m sure you’ll head to head the winners, but it will be cool to see how absolute the scoring system is, or is it just comparative in the matchup.

Nice job.

 

[Parallax]

Frank, you may have covered this. If so, forgive me. But what are the maximum points available in each category?

 

[Shavemd]

@Parallax It is Post #3087 that explains the scoring. Points given:

1. Smoothness = up to 60 points of the total score
2. Efficiency = up to 20 points of the total score
3. Balance = up to 10 points of the total score
4. Maneuverability = up to 5 points of the total score
5. Glide = up to 5 points of the total score

Points taken away:
1. Harshness = up to 20 points taken away.
Another great review my friend, Love both those razors.

 

[Twelvefret]

Thank you, Brother Frank.

 

[User 306]

UPDATE:

Listed below you'll see the razors that have been in the Shave Off so far. Also as you see the razors that made it through to the 2nd round are marked in Blue and the razors that were eliminated are marked in Red.

If you'd like to make a suggestion on the next pairing please do. Please pick 2 razors from either the Adjustable or the Contenders category as we will be eventually adding the final 2 razors from each category on into the Favorites category and proceed with the match ups for the next round of Shave Offs until we find a winner.


Category 1 - Adjustable:

1.Gillette F4 Toggle
2.Gillette Fatboy
3.Gillette Slim
4. Mergress adjustable.
5. Gibbs adjustable

Category 2 - Contenders:

1. Gillette New SC - On to the 2nd round
2. Gillette New Deluxe Big Boy
3. Gillette RFB
4. Fatip Grande - Eliminated
3. Gillette Red Tip - Eliminated
5. Gillette 46/47 Aristocrat
6. Gillette 1st Gen 15 OC Aristocrat
7. Gillette 2nd Gen SB Aristocrat - On to the 2nd round
8. Charcoal Goods Level 2 - On to the 2nd round
9. RR Gamechanger with both baseplates.
10. Edwin Jagger DE89
11. Merkur 34C
12. RazoRock SLOC
13. RazoRock Mamba
14. Blackbird SB
15. Ikon New Deluxe
16. Gillette 1936 Aristocrat - Eliminated

Category 3 - Favorites:

1.Gillette President
2.Gillette 1934 Aristocrat
3.Gillette 48/50 Aristocrat
4.Paradigm 17 4
5. Raw Shaving RS 10 Mild plate
6. Wolfman WR2 .95 SB
7. Timeless .95 SB Titanium ( .68 plate will be used if we can get one )
8. Stahly
8. Karve with a variety of baseplates which I will use the milder E, C or D plate.
9. Gillette Fat handled Tech


Great Shaves my friends!

DB

 

[Sharp_Obsession]

UPDATE:

Listed below you'll see the razors that have been in the Shave Off so far. Also as you see the razors that made it through to the 2nd round are marked in Blue and the razors that were eliminated are marked in Red.

If you'd like to make a suggestion on the next pairing please do. Please pick 2 razors from either the Adjustable or the Contenders category as we will be eventually adding the final 2 razors from each category on into the Favorites category and proceed with the match ups for the next round of Shave Offs until we find a winner.


Category 1 - Adjustable:

1.Gillette F4 Toggle
2.Gillette Fatboy
3.Gillette Slim
4. Mergress adjustable.
5. Gibbs adjustable

Category 2 - Contenders:

1. Gillette New SC - On to the 2nd round
2. Gillette New Deluxe Big Boy
3. Gillette RFB
4. Fatip Grande - Eliminated
3. Gillette Red Tip - Eliminated
5. Gillette 46/47 Aristocrat
6. Gillette 1st Gen 15 OC Aristocrat
7. Gillette 2nd Gen SB Aristocrat - On to the 2nd round
8. Charcoal Goods Level 2 - On to the 2nd round
9. RR Gamechanger with both baseplates.
10. Edwin Jagger DE89
11. Merkur 34C
12. RazoRock SLOC
13. RazoRock Mamba
14. Blackbird SB
15. Ikon New Deluxe
16. Gillette 1936 Aristocrat - Eliminated

Category 3 - Favorites:

1.Gillette President
2.Gillette 1934 Aristocrat
3.Gillette 48/50 Aristocrat
4.Paradigm 17 4
5. Raw Shaving RS 10 Mild plate
6. Wolfman WR2 .95 SB
7. Timeless .95 SB Titanium ( .68 plate will be used if we can get one )
8. Stahly
8. Karve with a variety of baseplates which I will use the milder E, C or D plate.
9. Gillette Fat handled Tech


Great Shaves my friends!

DB

You can add the Paradigm Ti II to the Favorites list

 

[Glock]

FWIW, I’d like to see the RFB vs the #15 OC. The “king of shavers” against the Aristocrat Champ!

 

[Shavemd]

+2 on that matchup