The Pasquini Saga

[Mick]

I picked up a used Livia 90 automatic on the bay and it came in DOA (not surprised considering the lowball price I paid).

After some poking prodding and general messing around I determined that the 3 way valve is toast.

when the parts house opens up tomorrow I will order one which will take a few days to get here.

I have been descaling and flushing the boiler getting it "in the mood".

The Pasquini is sitting on the sink drainboard and will be for a few more days.

Looking forward to my first cup from it

 

[StillShaving]

Nice. I hope you will have good luck with it.

 

[jzuzphreek]

keep us posted! No reason for HB and CG to have all the good restoration threads to themselves.

 

[Lather]

Nice. Looks well made inside and once repaired will work well. Do you need to back flush as well?

 

[Alacrity59]

My goodness that looks like a plumbers nightmare. Kinda fun.

 

[Isaac]

Did you get a good deal on it, or will it be negated by the parts you are having to order?

 

[Mick]

I spent most of the day yesterday descaling the boiler and heat exchanger and replacing the 3 way valve and gaskets.

Machine up and running and making fantastic espresso.

Now for the pics

The larger replacement 3 way solenoid valve (on the left)

The very clogged heat exchanger

New Valve installed:

Had to chisel out the old portafilter gasket:

Happy dance

Takes its place on the counter:

 

[Mick]

Nice. Looks well made inside and once repaired will work well. Do you need to back flush as well?

The machine looks to have been put away when it stopped making coffee. No buggered up parts inside and all of the dated parts are the same age as the machine (21st week of 2005). I was the first person inside the machine which is nice to not have to un-fix some cowboy's "repair"

I descaled the boiler first by running a full reservoir of citric acid through it one boiler full at a time. I pulled the wire off of the boiler fill sensor and opened the steam valve to fill the boiler to the top with water so that I got the entire boiler covered with the acid. I would let it sit in the boiler for half an hour then turn the machine on and run the boiler empty through the water dispenser, let it fill again and turn it off for another half hour. I did this until the water stopped coming out milky/chalky/yellow and started to come out blue (down to the copper in the boiler, heating coils, and all of the tubing). I then ran 2 full reservoir of fresh water through it using the same method, fill the boiler, let it sit, drain the boiler and refill again. that took the better part of Thursday and was an all day affair but it is squeaky clean now.

Yesterday I got the 3 way valve in so had to descale the heat exchanger since no water would run through the heat exchanger with the 3 way valve inoperative, otherwise I could have done both the boiler and heat exchanger at the same time. I descaled the heat exchanger by removing all of the tubing going to it and putting the copper tubes into a glass with citric acid in it to remove the calcium deposits inside of the tubing. I used a 30 ml syringe and a 18 gauge blunt irrigation needle (the same one I use for refilling my fountain pen cartridges) and filling the heat exchanger with acid. I let it sit for about a half hour, put one of the tubes back on and put on the plastic over flow tube from the bottom of the 3 way valve (that fit on the other HX fitting) and blew the heat exchanger dry. Then I filled it again. I did this over and over until I used up 1 cup of critic acid mixture.

Then I put 2 cups of water through it to flush out the acid. I put the 3 way valve on and fired it up. Worked like new. Strong flow, good boiler temp. perfect brew temp.

Flipped it on its top and chiseled out the old portafilter gasket which looked to be the original one from 2005 as it was busted up real bad and leaked something fierce.

I mixed the citric acid 1 tbl to 1 cup of water which was mild yet strong enough to remove all of the calcium deposits in the water system.

Citric acid is a food additive and is used in soft drinks and other products where a sour taste is wanted. It can be eaten in a raw powder form (if you can handle the sour) so it is one of the safest acid descalers you can use. It also does not damage any of the seals and gaskets as it is rather mild. It does take a little longer to work than commercial descaling products but those are caustic and you need to make sure all of it is out before using the machine.

After getting it up and running I back flushed it with 1/2 tsp of Cafiza. From the gunk that came out it looked like this was the first time it was back flushed too.

Now it is looks and works like a new machine (better then it did when it was new as the 3 way valve is larger than the original).

Did you get a good deal on it, or will it be negated by the parts you are having to order?

Got it off of eBay and the seller covered the $150 cost of the parts (valve was $98 alone + gaskets and food grade high temp lube).

I've got about 1/3 the cost of a new machine into it and am happy with that

 

[StillShaving]

Very nice job Mick. You are giving Doug over at Orphan Espresso a run for his money.

Nice tip about using Citric Acid. I have used some of the commercial descaling products and diluted white vinegar, but never tried that before.

 

[Mick]

Very nice job Mick. You are giving Doug over at Orphan Espresso a run for his money.

Ah.. I don't think so... I am a real neophite compared to most. BUT thanks for the compliment

Nice tip about using Citric Acid. I have used some of the commercial descaling products and diluted white vinegar, but never tried that before.

I bought the citric acid in bulk at a local health food store. It is one of the mildest acids you can use to descale and it is edible so if you don't get it all out (and you never do) it is no more harmful than drinking a soda with citric acid in it and all of them have it added as a "tart/sour" flavoring agent.

I picked up on using this from the coffee forums where it is the preferred product. It does take a little longer to work over a commercial descaling product but the safe part makes it worth the little extra time it requires to get everything dissolved.

It is easy on the gaskets and seals, unlike vinegar which can etch rubber if not diluted enough.

 

[ANeat]

Exellent job, just a lovely machine. Ive had good luck using citric acid in the past as well, great stuff, The local grocery store has it with the canning supplies.

 

[jazzguy]

The Pasquini is a great machine. It's good to see this one put back in service again.

 

[Sullybob]

Nice job Mick! 1/3 of the cost of a new machine is a great deal.

 

[gearchow]

Nice job Mick! 1/3 of the cost of a new machine is a great deal.

Of course, the hours invested are billed at the "labor of love" cost.

Wonderful bringing that back to proper working order Mick!

-jim

 

[Mick]

I am really digging the Pasquini. What a nice machine. I don't know if the cleaning and mods have made it a better machine because I could not use it when I got it because of the broken valve but I can tell you.... this thing is sweet...... I can steam a pitcher of milk in 3 seconds flat. This took some getting used to but now it is fantastic to have it so fast and perfect microfoam too...

Today it comes back apart and I am going to wrap the boiler with some ceramic stove pipe insulation that I have had sitting around for a while. This should protect the electronics in the machine and keep it at a more stable temp and not require it to cycle as much to keep things ready.

I walked over to the post office today (like every day) and I had 2 sets of cups waiting for me. An older (60's maybe) set of 4 cappuccino cups and saucers made by ACF of Italy and a pair of new Intelligentsia 12 oz cups and saucers. I was put off at first with the size of the Intelligentsia cup but the more I use it the more I like it. I think I will get a pair of their smaller 10 oz cups to see if they are more comfortable.

 

[Mick]

Today I took the machine apart again and put some ceramic insulation around the boiler and added a few extra pieces of insulation as a buffer between the new 3 way solenoid valve and the boiler and the computer and the boiler.

I left the top of the boiler uncovered so it would continue to heat the cup storage area nicely

I've noticed a difference in the cycle time. It seems to hold temp longer and does not cycle as frequently.

I'll have to give it a few days to see if there is an improvement in the brew quality since the temp is a little more stable with the insulation around the boiler.

The "blanket" that I cut out of ceramic stove insulation. It is aluminum on one side and mylar on the other. I put the aluminum side to the boiler. I'll need to check it in a few months to make sure that it does not react with the copper boiler.

the wrap on the boiler (computer side)

Wrap on the boiler (3 way valve side)

 

[StillShaving]

Nice modification to insulate the boiler. That is one of my peeves with trying to use an Espresso machine at this time of year, when it is so hot outside. The A/C is going full blast, while the espresso machine sits on the counter cycling on/off to heat up the kitchen in between shots. I primarily use the Presso during the summer months for that reason.

 

[Mick]

Nice modification to insulate the boiler. That is one of my peeves with trying to use an Espresso machine at this time of year, when it is so hot outside. The A/C is going full blast, while the espresso machine sits on the counter cycling on/off to heat up the kitchen in between shots. I primarily use the Presso during the summer months for that reason.

The sides are cool to the touch now. The top is still roasty toasty where the cups sit.... This should really help the longevity of all the electric and electronic parts within the machine.

 

[Alacrity59]

If any corrosion happens it should be the aluminum that suffers. Probably a silly question but did you use teflon tape or some other method to assure a tight seal when reassembling the "plumbing"?

 

[Mick]

If any corrosion happens it should be the aluminum that suffers. Probably a silly question but did you use teflon tape or some other method to assure a tight seal when reassembling the "plumbing"?

All of the fittings are pressure type (ball soldered on the end of the copper tube that goes into a fitting and is compressed by the nut so none of the fittings required any more than a mild snug to get a perfect seal

The 3 way valve had two 90° elbows that threaded into it. I first put it together dry and it leaked (doh). Took it back apart and used good old Rectorseal red dot # 5 soft set pipe sealant. No leaks. No drips. No problems