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The Key

Went to the DMT site to read about the Duosharp as recommended- & saw the Diasharp. Main diff seems to be: holes vs no holes, double vs single sided, and the Dia comes in more fine grits- up to 8k, but would not need lapping or soaking unlike the Norton 8k. Ive also read that the Dia isnt certified flat,

has anyone had any Diasharps that didnt hone well bc of the lack of "certified flatness"?


Just got off the phone with a DMT rep, she said the Dia is also as flat as the Duo.
 
I make use of my Norton 220/1K stone, if the 220 does'nt do it, then you've got your self the WRONG RAZOR!!!

Besides', the people of DMT have enough of my money so far!!!


tinkersd
 
I make use of my Norton 220/1K stone, if the 220 does'nt do it, then you've got your self the WRONG RAZOR!!!

I've been working on a wedge for 30 minutes or so, using a 200 harbor freight special. Still have another .5 mm or so until I get to the edge. It was an ebay special, and someone put a real nice "knife" bevel on it. I'm also slightly hampered by needing to use tape to preserve proper bevel angle. I don't see how people use tape all the time, it's a pain in the behind to use!
 
I watched Slash McCoy's honing videos last night, and it was helpful to see the effort he put in to setting the bevel. Do most of you follow his method of half strokes on each side to first raise a burr, and then full strokes to remove the burr?
 
I don't. I just wail on it until the razor cries "Uncle" and I can pop hairs at the 600/1000 grit level HHT.
 
The DiaSharp 1200 - 600..
How do break in a new one??
They are Damn rough when new..

Hone up 100 Gold Dollars.



Or run the flat edge of a chisel across it a bunch of times.


But that's a SECRET! Don;t go blabbering it all over....
 
Question; I'm dealing with an old blade that has an uneven spine thickness... calipered narrower at the toe by about 1/64. At first I thought this might be the warped blade condition that I see referred to quite often. Bevel setting at 1K is resulting in wider spine wear at the heel end. The bevel itself is evening out fairly well and it now shaves arm hair along its length, but the spine is starting to look a bit fugly. Is it the right approach to allow this to happen, or would it be better to try to adjust the honing stroke (pronounced rolling) to keep a more even spine wear and let the variance telegraph to the edge?
 
Don't sweat the details. Get it sharp.

I should expound a bit: the uneven spine wear is from the intersection of the edge profile (rounded) with the spine profile (straight). There is little to nothing you can do to fix it short of regrinding the blade.
 
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I use the 1200 dmt for bevels. But I have a 325 and a 600 that I use for chips and frowns. Wouldn't it make sense then to start on the 325 then 600 then 1200 and up? I know you will have scratches but circles on 600 and 1200 as well as the 4 and 8 should eliminate these. Im not talking about a recent shaving razor or a touchup. What Im thinking is with a few minutes per dmt you will remove more metal faster.
 
I use the 1200 dmt for bevels. But I have a 325 and a 600 that I use for chips and frowns. Wouldn't it make sense then to start on the 325 then 600 then 1200 and up? I know you will have scratches but circles on 600 and 1200 as well as the 4 and 8 should eliminate these. Im not talking about a recent shaving razor or a touchup. What Im thinking is with a few minutes per dmt you will remove more metal faster.

Sure, whatever works!

I'd rather spend 5 minutes on the 325 then spend 10 on the 600.
 
Or run the flat edge of a chisel across it a bunch of times.
My mostly new DMT 1200 was a tad harsh when I used it to set the bevel on my first Gold Dollar. But I recently did follow this "process" on my DMT 1200, and you were right, it mellowed the stone down, and when I used it last night with the small wedge str8 razor, the scratch marks from the bevel setting were not quite as deep as when it was fairly new.


But that's a SECRET! Don;t go blabbering it all over....
My lips are sealed ... :001_cool:
 
Loupes and scopes can be helpful, but the best thing to do is get a razor you really don't care about and have at it with the 1k stone.

REALLY set the bevel on that sucker, since that is the KEY to getting a great edge. The best edges don't come from having the 75,000 grit stone hewn from the Japanese Alps as a finisher. It comes from making sure the bevel is set correctly in the fist place (I measure that by being able to cleanly cleave arm hair 2-3mm above skin level) coming off the bevel setting hone (for me a DMT 1200).

If you are trying to hone your Dorko, or some other precious metal, you most likely will be too horrified to spend enough time on the low grit hones, removing the proper amount of metal to set the bevel. I think this is why many folks, myself included, get some great shavers out of the $20 EBay finds (or GDs for that matter), since there is not much to be lost, you can really wail on that thing on the bevel setting hone.

Once the bevel is set, sure, it's nice to then refine it up to the point that you are using the 98,000 grit Sukihara that will make a Zen master weep and write a haiku about the shave he just had with it. But the key is the low grit hones.....
I had a blade that didnt shave too well at all. You are right, I went to town on that bad boy 325 600 1200 dmt. I kept going til it cut hair. It had a slightly bent spine and a very slight frown. Removed a lot of metal but it had to go. Almost an hour for the bevel. I didnt bother keeping track of laps. Finished up on norton 4/8 naniwa 12 and .5 film on granite. That razor is resurrected.
 
I had a blade that didnt shave too well at all. You are right, I went to town on that bad boy 325 600 1200 dmt. I kept going til it cut hair. It had a slightly bent spine and a very slight frown. Removed a lot of metal but it had to go. Almost an hour for the bevel. I didnt bother keeping track of laps. Finished up on norton 4/8 naniwa 12 and .5 film on granite. That razor is resurrected.

Can I get a hallelujah my brothers!
 
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