The 3 Pass Shave Is Bad Advice?

[Ron R]

Two pass shave with pickups(2 1/2 passes) works for myself for the last 5 years and I tried 3 pass with pickups and it was two much for a daily shaver.
I used a slant razor with a 3 pass and it indicated to me it was to efficient for 3 passes years ago so I used a 2 pass with a few pickups and hit the sweet spot. My typical shave WTG + ATG + pickups and no more and it just works well and mainly get very close shaves as a daily shaver with minimal irritation and hardly any weepers.
I think folks over shave trying to get the razor to make no audio feedback of whiskers being snipped and what I found is I over shaved when learning my Technique then using the alum block you will feel its to close for comfort. I keep suggesting use some balm after done shaving and it will hydrate the skin surface and the root of the whisker is deeper so the top of whisker is slightly sunken giving a BBS feel in 1/2 to 1 hr later most of the time and the my skin enjoys it.

 

[musicman1951]

Any advice could be bad for someone. Different faces, different skin, different beards, different equipment, different technique and different expectations. So yes, a daily 3 pass shave would be too much for some and not enough for others.

Some people can get a BBS with only 2 passes, many can't (and I'm one of the many who can't). Some people don't care about BBS, some do.

I think happiness lies somewhere around spending the money you're comfortable spending, finding the best razor/blade/soap/cream, etc. for your face/beard/technique that gets you the results you want.

To the great detriment of everyone, I have not been anointed ruler of the universe, so I can't make these decisions for anyone but myself.

 

[RayClem]

I used to shave every day; sometimes twice a day if I had an evening appointment. I am retired now, so I do not need to shave daily. I continued to do so up until COVID. Since then, I shave three times per week. My beard is coarse, thick and fast-growing, so I try to get a near-BBS shave. To do that without causing irritation during the shave, I do FOUR passes with a very light touch. I find that I get far less irritation with four passes than I would trying to accomplish the job in fewer passes with greater pressure.

 

[purecro]

Yea for me, as I have gotten shaving experience, I went from starting doing a 1 pass wtg (as I was learning) to now a 2/3 pass, usually 3 lately as I wanted to make sure I can do it so it would be Wtg, Xtg/Dtg (just depends on the technique I wanted to work on) and Atg getting a DFS+/BBS (usually mostly BBS-/BBS) with no cuts, weeper, nicks and irritation. I usually shave every 3-4 days (sometimes longer) and trying to get down to 2-3 days but alas we shall see.

I would like any feedback on this from anyone but for me I really don't find the Xtg or even Dtg (which I have to be careful on shaving wise) to be that helpful once I do my 1st Wtg pass. I have at times done Wtg, touch up, Wtg then Atg wtih the same results.

What I am asking is that in my experience I don't see that much results from Xtg/Dtg once I do a good Wtg (which I have been so use to do) with some touch ups so does anyone else experience that as well? I am curious to know.

 

[RayClem]

Yea for me, as I have gotten shaving experience, I went from starting doing a 1 pass wtg (as I was learning) to now a 2/3 pass, usually 3 lately as I wanted to make sure I can do it so it would be Wtg, Xtg/Dtg (just depends on the technique I wanted to work on) and Atg getting a DFS+/BBS (usually mostly BBS-/BBS) with no cuts, weeper, nicks and irritation. I usually shave every 3-4 days (sometimes longer) and trying to get down to 2-3 days but alas we shall see.

I would like any feedback on this from anyone but for me I really don't find the Xtg or even Dtg (which I have to be careful on shaving wise) to be that helpful once I do my 1st Wtg pass. I have at times done Wtg, touch up, Wtg then Atg wtih the same results.

What I am asking is that in my experience I don't see that much results from Xtg/Dtg once I do a good Wtg (which I have been so use to do) with some touch ups so does anyone else experience that as well? I am curious to know.

If you do your WTG press with pressure, you can get a close shave in one pass. However, your will also remove a lot of skin cells along with the stubble. If you have thick skin, that might not be a bad thing. However, as you age, skin normally gets thinner and more sensitive. At my age, I cannot afford to lose ANY skin cells during my shave. I have to shave with minimal pressure. That leaves a lot of stubble after my WTG pass. Each subsequent pass removes a percentage of the stubble. Only after my 4th pass am I satisfied with the feel of my face.

 

[Lane101]

Click Bait!

Really though. I tried out DE's about 10 years ago (I posted about it a while back on here) and had zero luck. For a little over a year I got nothing but bad shaves, razor burn, and ingrown hairs...all which, I NEVER got with a cartridge. Now that I'm trying again I'm realizing things that would have helped me tremendously back then.

The main factor in my opinion is your beard type and how often you shave. If you have very thick and coarse facial hair AND you have to/want to shave every day, I highly suggest trying out a mild razor and NOT doing 3 passes...AKA shaving your face three freaking times. I did 1 pass this morning. WTG on my cheeks and jaw/chin (mustache March is coming up and I'm getting a head start, even though I don't need one.) and ATG on my neck. WTG on my neck just doesn't get everything. That's it! One pass! Done! Great shave! I look back to when I first tried DE 10 years ago and have to laugh. 3 full passes every single day, with a medium-aggressive razor? WHY!? Completely unnecessary. YMMV is so true. It may vary even from advice that seems like it's the gold standard. Again...if you're a daily shaver you MAY not need three passes to get a great shave, even if you're like me and have ridiculously thick and coarse facial hair.

Another thought: This whole thing about "beard reduction" makes sense...if you literally have a BEARD. I totally understand needing a 3 pass shave then. I will probably do more than one pass when I take leave and actually have a beard. Some people don't need to perform a 3 pass "beard reduction" shave when you literally just shaved yesterday...even guys like me with lumberjack facial hair. It makes me laugh now..."it's all about beard reduction." Ha! My "beard" from yesterday's shave!? Yes, I'm literally OCD and have had too much caffeine.

The three pass shave is a relatively recent construct and historically was never the standard. Historically it was one or two passes. Bottom line with YMMV do what is right for your preferences and beard characteristics. I do a two pass shave with some touch up. Link to a thread below that covers this with lots of research and detail.

How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[den fly]

My shaves got a lot better when I decided its pretty silly to expect my 60 odd year old man face to be soft as a baby's bottom. So much for chasing the BBS ideal. And being a daily shaver like the OP, I find a three pass shave is over shaving- at least for me.

 

[bonbon]

I agree that everyone has a different face, my experience was entirely different though.

When I shave every second day, 2 passes with some touch ups are all I need for BBS.

When I shave every day I need 3 proper passes. Yet, I do them with my Progres: 2.0 - 1.5 - 3.0. So I start with 2 very mild passed and for the last one increase aggression. Gives me the best irritation-free shaves.
Idk why but when I shave daily I can't get good results with just 2 passes. DFS easily, but nowhere close to BBS

 

[SalS]

I am a one and done with a little touch up

 

[SalS]

My shaves got a lot better when I decided its pretty silly to expect my 60 odd year old man face to be soft as a baby's bottom. So much for chasing the BBS ideal. And being a daily shaver like the OP, I find a three pass shave is over shaving- at least for me.

You can easily take 20 years off your face with two or three products if you wish.

 

[Eshebert]

Its and individual choice. I know freedom of choice and personnel preference are dirty works in 2023, but I am old school. If you like it, I love it and I am happy for you. I like BBS and I like to wet shave, it relaxes me. If my face can take it, I will three pass every day.

 

[ZeelandsRoem]

2 1/2 daily passes for me with a DE. That's my upper limit. I tried to do 3 or 3 1/2 passes for a while to achieve a BBS but it ripped my skin apart and I couldn't take it anymore, so I gave up.

With a straight razor, I can get a BBS with 3 passes and my skin is still ok, but that's because I can hone the edge to be exactly how I like it.

Besides this, it is super important to have a good preparation before shaving, good lather, technique and post care.

 

[steveclarkus]

Click Bait!

Really though. I tried out DE's about 10 years ago (I posted about it a while back on here) and had zero luck. For a little over a year I got nothing but bad shaves, razor burn, and ingrown hairs...all which, I NEVER got with a cartridge. Now that I'm trying again I'm realizing things that would have helped me tremendously back then.

The main factor in my opinion is your beard type and how often you shave. If you have very thick and coarse facial hair AND you have to/want to shave every day, I highly suggest trying out a mild razor and NOT doing 3 passes...AKA shaving your face three freaking times. I did 1 pass this morning. WTG on my cheeks and jaw/chin (mustache March is coming up and I'm getting a head start, even though I don't need one.) and ATG on my neck. WTG on my neck just doesn't get everything. That's it! One pass! Done! Great shave! I look back to when I first tried DE 10 years ago and have to laugh. 3 full passes every single day, with a medium-aggressive razor? WHY!? Completely unnecessary. YMMV is so true. It may vary even from advice that seems like it's the gold standard. Again...if you're a daily shaver you MAY not need three passes to get a great shave, even if you're like me and have ridiculously thick and coarse facial hair.

Another thought: This whole thing about "beard reduction" makes sense...if you literally have a BEARD. I totally understand needing a 3 pass shave then. I will probably do more than one pass when I take leave and actually have a beard. Some people don't need to perform a 3 pass "beard reduction" shave when you literally just shaved yesterday...even guys like me with lumberjack facial hair. It makes me laugh now..."it's all about beard reduction." Ha! My "beard" from yesterday's shave!? Yes, I'm literally OCD and have had too much caffeine.

Two is my max and sometimes just one. I use straight razors so irritation is not a concern as it is with DE's. Two passes is plenty for me. After all, it is just shaving and I've been doing it daily for over 50 years.

 

[Fatip101]

My general rule is 72 hrs growth and 3 passes. my skin can handle it
48 hrs or less growth and best to stick to 2 passes

I can even get away with 2 pass shaves every 36 hours, but I tend to like to shave the same time each time, so I leave at least 48 hrs between

 

[Lockback]

I'm pretty much a Two Pass & Touch-Up guy.

 

[StewB]

The 3 Pass Shave Is Bad Advice?

It is bad advice for me. Using too many passes is a sure way to give myself skin irritation.

 

[Big_T]

With the right razor/blade/lather combination I'll sometimes do 4 passes with a couple of touch-up spots. Smooth for 14 hours.

 

[Alex Jr]

I feel I get less irritation and better skin with 2 passes. It can be WTG/XTG or WTG/ATG.

I’ve always felt that a XTG pass before ATG doesn’t help and actually makes things worse for me.

I don’t know why, but ATG with a somewhat longer hair, just after a WTG pass, seems to be way less irritating.

Lately I’ve been diving on technique and eliminating the ATG, sticking with WTG/XTG. Focusing on technique like a barber would, with all the stretching etc… I’ve been getting 90% of ATG feel (100% on some areas) without actually doing it. Lovely…

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

I'm usually happy with a two pass shave. The first pass is a mix of with and across the grain; the second is across and in places against the grain.

A third pass sometimes leads to irritation, and more importantly it wastes soap. At $15 the box for 12 Arko sticks, eliminating that third pass saves me 88 cents' worth of soap every eleven years.

And this raises a very important point - the temptation to use up all of that great lather you whipped up. How can you possibly let it go to waste, when you can lay waste to your face instead with a third of fourth pass

... Thom

 

[Goblin]

The three pass shave as a "standard model" is fine. Telling people about it is not bad advice.

What IS bad advice is telling new people that they HAVE to do a three pass shave, allowing them to come away with that impression, or not explaining the rationale behind the three pass model.

We seem to live in a day and age when everyone wants to believe there are no universal truths and that they are a unique snowflake that has to have something different that's "just right for them" and not for anyone else (you only have to look at advertising rhetoric pitched at younger generations to see how this view has become prevalent over the last decade or so). However, that doesn't mean that folks who are new to a particular practice shouldn't at least understand what the "standard" approach might look like and the reasons behind it. Once you understand the theory, you are free to apply it however you want. If you don't understand it, there are pitfalls.

I am not just making this up. Go on social media sites for wet shaving and you will eventually come across youngsters saying things like, "I do one pass ATG but I still get bad irritation and ingrown hairs from just one pass - I do this because I heard ATG was the way to get a close shave so it must be best - what am I doing wrong!?!" Clearly, these folks only had partial information - if they had been told the whole story, they wouldn't fallen into this particular error.

I think as long as folks are informed about the following elements, it's okay:

1) DE shaving is about gradual beard reduction.
2) Beard reduction is usually accomplished by making a series of passes in three different directions relative to the beard growth.
3) Those three directions are WTG, XTG, ATG.
4) They are performed in that order because a pass in each of these directions is capable of shaving closer than the preceding pass.
5) Sticking to this order, and the "gradual reduction" principle, is one way to ensure shaves are more comfortable and less likely to cause nicks or irriation. It is not advisable to skip straight to an ATG pass "because it's the closest" (see above).
6) These three directions, one after the other, thus give us the model of "The 3 Pass Shave" - pass 1: WTG, pass 2: XTG, pass 3: ATG.
7) You don't have to do three passes. Many people have skin that cannot tolerate an ATG pass no matter how much prior beard reduction has taken place, and that's fine.
8) Equally, many people find their shaves are adequately close without requiring an ATG pass.
9) Beginners are recommended to start with one WTG pass and leave things at that until they can do it with no nicks or discomfort.
10) From there, you might choose to add another WTG pass, or add an XTG pass. You may decide that one WTG pass is all it takes. It all depends on how close a shave you are aiming for. Leave the ATG pass until you are comfortable with WTG and XTG passes.

So, perhaps a better approach would be to think in terms of "The three directions of shaving and how to use them"...but "3 pass shave" is easier and we all know what we are talking about!