Strop Conditioning and Paste Questions

[Vaporstang]

I have a Dovo straight razor and Fromm Illinois strop on order. I have started using a shavette and like it enough to take the next steps. Have two separate questions on: conditioning and using a paste. I am a newb at this, so please keep it basic for me.

Conditioning: What do I use?

• I do use a strop for knives (and yes, I understand that this is different from the knife world ). It is an inexpensive one and I pretty much condition it with whatever.
• I have used:
  1. the natural oils from my skin (per the strop manufacturer)
  2. glove oil
  3. mineral oil (which I use to oil and lubricate knives.)
  4. I also have Neatsfoot oil on hand.
• My understanding is that I need to keep the oil off of the linen/canvas strop. Any conditioning need for the linen?

Pastes and Abrasives:​

• Should I use a paste or abrasive compound? [I do not use any when stropping my knives, although a lot (most?) people do.]
• If I should use a paste, what should I use?
• Should I use it on the linen strop also.

Thanks for the help!​

​

 

[seattleshaver]

I don't use anything to condition my hanging strop other than skin oils.

It's not necessary but I think it's better to get a paddle strop to use for paste (chromium oxide). You can get an inexpensive one for less than $10 and you can get a "crayon" of chromium oxide for about $6.

I think it's better to just keep the pastes away from your main hanging strop (although not everyone does it this way).

 

[Alum of Potash]

As received, your new strop should be ready to use. No conditioner needed. What will be needed is use and hand rubbing to break it in, which takes time. As for pasted strops, for starting out, maybe a paddle from Sharpening Supplies. Line the suede side with the paste of your choice (I would recommend the Dovo red tube paste in starting out), followed by a few laps on the vegetable-tanned leather side to clean the spine and edge before moving to the hanging strop. What to do with the starched "linen" on the second piece of the Illinois strop remains the question. Perhaps return to it on occasion when stropping on the leather isn't doing the trick, followed by a descent to the pasted strop when this fails, as needed. Bear in mind too that early hang-stropping with a hollow-grind razors can roll the edge, so experience is key there, taking time.

Knive stropping for me differs in that I prefer to use a bench strop, rather than a hanging strop. Pasted hanging strops with razors work well for me instead of a paddle too.

 

[duke762]

Welcome to the Forum! Hand oils don't work for me. Came home from work and started rubbing my strop and my rough, dry hands left marks on the surface.

If it's a brand new strop, it will be sort of stiff. Before I'd go to the oil, I'd try working the leather some by flexing and yes, if your hands are in any kind if normal condition, rub it. Knead it with your thumbs, one on each side. Move the kneading up and down. Get a round backed butter knife and work the rounded spine on the strop. At this point, it would be good to suggest practicing stropping with the same butter knife.

If you absolutely feel the need to oil it after working it. Neats foot oil or mineral oil will work fine. A drop or 2 rubbed into your palms and thumbs then work it in as above.

If this is totally new to you, hold off on abrasive pastes. And yes they are not a good idea for hanging strops. It's best to master one thing at a time. One less variable if things go wonky.

 

[macintoshBR]

My suggestion: don’t think about conditioning or pastes when starting.

Seems like newbies like to put themselves into trouble by adding variables to an already challenging learning curve.

I bought my first straight 6 years ago and so far I have never conditioned my strop with any sort of oil or anything. Just palm rub for 15 laps before you strop.

for pastes, once you learn how to strop, shave and maintain your razor to a shave ready status, I recommend you check the Pasted Balsa strop thread in this forum

 

[Aldwyn]

I use natural oils, too, but I use nose/forehead oil. LOL! No joke! I will also rub the strop against my hair at the end of the day to pick up some of it's oils, as well.

Paste wise, I would agree with what is being said. You may not want to used your prised canvas, as once that paste is on there, it aint coming off. Further, you may find you hate the edge coming off pasted strops... I know I did!

 

[Vaporstang]

Thanks all! And thanks for keeping it simple for me. You gave me enough information to form a game plan to start with.

• Work the new strop with my hands to help break it in.
• No conditioning to start with unless just with my natural skin oil.
• If conditioning beyond natural oil is necessary in the future, 1-2 drops of mineral or Neatsfoot oil applied to my palms first and worked in.
• No paste on my new strop!
• Don't roll the edge! (Maybe easier said than done.)
• Start looking at a paddle and Dovo paste for the future.

 

[Vaporstang]

...

Knive stropping for me differs in that I prefer to use a bench strop, rather than a hanging strop. Pasted hanging strops with razors work well for me instead of a paddle too.

For my knives I have a hanging strop that is laid flat on a bench and pull tight. So basically a bench strop. Works the best for me on knives.

I use natural oils, too, but I use nose/forehead oil. LOL! No joke! I will also rub the strop against my hair at the end of the day to pick up some of it's oils, as well.

Paste wise, I would agree with what is being said. You may not want to used your prised canvas, as once that paste is on there, it aint coming off. Further, you may find you hate the edge coming off pasted strops... I know I did!

LOL - I've done the same for my current knife strop - oil from my forhead and nose. I've used oil from my hair for lubricating small screws in a pinch....

 

[illbell]

I don't use anything to condition my hanging strop other than skin oils.

It's not necessary but I think it's better to get a paddle strop to use for paste (chromium oxide). You can get an inexpensive one for less than $10 and you can get a "crayon" of chromium oxide for about $6.

I think it's better to just keep the pastes away from your main hanging strop (although not everyone does it this way).

Hey there , where can I acquire these things? I'm definitely interested

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[seattleshaver]

Hey there , where can I acquire these things? I'm definitely interested

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I couldn't find one like mine that is still $10. You could probably get one from China at that price. Here is something for $23 including shipping.

Kriegar Leather Strop Double Side Paddle Wood Handle Strop Razor Knife Sharpener | eBay

Like multiple whetstones in one! "Honing" is more aggressive than "stropping.". A flat, solid surface with light give - as in the leather-topped wood of the Kriegar Paddle Strop - makes maintaining proper blade angles easier.

www.ebay.com

Here is a chromium oxide stick for $7 plus shipping. You might be able to find something similar with free shipping.

Taytools 1.2 Ounce Bar Green Chromium Oxide Micro Fine Stropping Polishing | eBay

The waxy consistency allows it to adhere well to any substrate without powering. Simply rub the bar evenly on the surface like a crayon. To achieve the best possible edge, finish honing by polishing your edge on raw leather.

www.ebay.com

 

[rbscebu]

I know you didn't ask it but don't expect your Dovo razor to be shave-ready straight from the supplier. It will most probably need at lease a few laps on a finishing whetstone before stropping and use.

Rather than looking to use CrO2 paste on a strop, give serious consideration to using diamond (0.5u, 0.25u & 0.1u) pasted balsa strops. Its use is well covered here in B&B.

 

[RenoRichard]

Strops require conditioning occasionally, but it is very dependent upon the conditions where you have it. Here in Nevada where it is extremely dry I condition my Illinois strop that has "Russian" leather twice a year with neatsfoot oil. I don't hand rub it in, but rather use a wool dauber as an applicator, put a light film on the strop and let it soak in for day. Russian leather is usually a split, i.e. not top grain, so it has more open pores and a rougher surface. For my homemade Latigo strop that is top grain leather and has more of a smooth, finished surface, I just rub some leftover tallow-based lather on it by hand every month to keep it up. Your weather and the type of leather you have will determine how often your strop requires some care. IMO, and like a number of folks above have said, it is far from the first thing you should worry about. Many years ago when we lived in the northeast I rarely conditioned a strop- perhaps, once every several years.

 

[illbell]

I couldn't find one like mine that is still $10. You could probably get one from China at that price. Here is something for $23 including shipping.


Here is a chromium oxide stick for $7 plus shipping. You might be able to find something similar with free shipping.

Thanks so much!

 

[Vaporstang]

I know you didn't ask it but don't expect your Dovo razor to be shave-ready straight from the supplier. It will most probably need at lease a few laps on a finishing whetstone before stropping and use.

Rather than looking to use CrO2 paste on a strop, give serious consideration to using diamond (0.5u, 0.25u & 0.1u) pasted balsa strops. Its use is well covered here in B&B.

Thanks! I am hoping the Dovo arrives not needing much more than stropping. Otherwise, I will have to work my way up to a whetstone. In the mean time I received a used "shave ready" Henry Graves SR that I am easing into. So far all I have done to it is stop it. But it will make a good SR for practicing on the whetstone.

Strops require conditioning occasionally, but it is very dependent upon the conditions where you have it. Here in Nevada where it is extremely dry I condition my Illinois strop that has "Russian" leather twice a year with neatsfoot oil. I don't hand rub it in, but rather use a wool dauber as an applicator, put a light film on the strop and let it soak in for day. Russian leather is usually a split, i.e. not top grain, so it has more open pores and a rougher surface. For my homemade Latigo strop that is top grain leather and has more of a smooth, finished surface, I just rub some leftover tallow-based lather on it by hand every month to keep it up. Your weather and the type of leather you have will determine how often your strop requires some care. IMO, and like a number of folks above have said, it is far from the first thing you should worry about. Many years ago when we lived in the northeast I rarely conditioned a strop- perhaps, once every several years.

Thanks! I actually live in Illinois, so no dry heat like Nevada. So should not need conditioning very often. Still trying to break it in with nothing more than rubbing it with my hands.

 

[Ron991]

Rub you're palm on it occasionally and call it a day. Here comes an unless. If you feel the leather is drying out, I would suggest an application of 1907 Fromm and remember less is more....IMHO

 

[Straight up]

I have used my hanging strop for 22 years and never done anything to condition it.
When I bought it I asked about conditioning and was told that you could put lamb's fat between the leather belts (mine is made from 2 leather belts. no canvas). I thought that would just go rancid, but I have heard of this from others.
This year I decided it was time to condition it, so I used Dubbin to prevent the leather from cracking and deteriorating. It soaked it up and as far as I can see hasn't made any real difference to stropping.
I add green jewlers paste from time to time to the rough leather side, but otherwise do nothing.

 

[Suhrim21]

Really the only strops I have used anything on were vintage strops. I like the Fromm strop dressing because it doesn't change the draw in the leather.

 

[KrstGor]

I have used my hanging strop for 22 years and never done anything to condition it.
When I bought it I asked about conditioning and was told that you could put lamb's fat between the leather belts (mine is made from 2 leather belts. no canvas). I thought that would just go rancid, but I have heard of this from others.
This year I decided it was time to condition it, so I used Dubbin to prevent the leather from cracking and deteriorating. It soaked it up and as far as I can see hasn't made any real difference to stropping.
I add green jewlers paste from time to time to the rough leather side, but otherwise do nothing.

This reminds me of my late grandfather. He had one strop, the barber's stone and 2 razors. I guess back in the day when shaving was just a daily routine and not a religious, spiritual endeavor, things were much simpler.