Straight Razor Restoration for Dummies

[mdunn]

Awesome job, very inspirational!

Thankyou, sir!

 

[woodturner]

Definitely gave me the inspiration to purchase a blade last night. My new one isn't half as nice as the shape of your Elliot. Hope I can do it justice.
Thanks!

 

[mdunn]

Definitely gave me the inspiration to purchase a blade last night. My new one isn't half as nice as the shape of your Elliot. Hope I can do it justice.
Thanks!

Good to hear! Let us know how it goes, and PM me if you have any issues fixing it up and I might be able to offer some advice

 

[sigmasix]

Awesome job mate, very motivating and informational!

Those scales almost look great love the pattern, looks similar to some red nara wood I have on a razor

 

[doogz]

I'm slightly dragging this thread back up from the depths, but first of all, thanks for creating it, to the OP, i'm about to try and restore an old blade i found on ebay a month back.

Secondly, you've done a cracking job with the wet and dry to get the blade back into that condition, can i ask though, roughly how long did you spend on each grade, and how many different grades did you go through to get it back to that condition?

I'd considered using my dremel, but having read this, i think it'll be a bit more satisfying to do it all by hand.

Cheers

Dougie

 

[mdunn]

I'm slightly dragging this thread back up from the depths, but first of all, thanks for creating it, to the OP, i'm about to try and restore an old blade i found on ebay a month back.

Secondly, you've done a cracking job with the wet and dry to get the blade back into that condition, can i ask though, roughly how long did you spend on each grade, and how many different grades did you go through to get it back to that condition?

I'd considered using my dremel, but having read this, i think it'll be a bit more satisfying to do it all by hand.

Cheers

Dougie

Thanks dougie.

I used 240, 360, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper. It was a few hours at 240, then only about 15 minutes for each higher grit as i progressed up.

Basically, stay on the lowest grit until you've removed as many of the pits as you want, then move up a grit and use it until none of the scratches of the previous grit remain, and then the next grit etc.

Pm me if you have any questions as you go

 

[Legion]

I'm slightly dragging this thread back up from the depths, but first of all, thanks for creating it, to the OP, i'm about to try and restore an old blade i found on ebay a month back.

Secondly, you've done a cracking job with the wet and dry to get the blade back into that condition, can i ask though, roughly how long did you spend on each grade, and how many different grades did you go through to get it back to that condition?

I'd considered using my dremel, but having read this, i think it'll be a bit more satisfying to do it all by hand.

Cheers

Dougie

More satisfying, and safer. For you and the blade.

 

[doogz]

Thanks dougie.

I used 240, 360, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper. It was a few hours at 240, then only about 15 minutes for each higher grit as i progressed up.

Basically, stay on the lowest grit until you've removed as many of the pits as you want, then move up a grit and use it until none of the scratches of the previous grit remain, and then the next grit etc.

Pm me if you have any questions as you go

Brilliant, thanks mate. Hopefully i'll get started on it tonight when i get home from work, if i don't end up outside working. I'll maybe start a thread and update it with some pics as i go.

 

[ringergary]

Thanks dougie.

I used 240, 360, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper. It was a few hours at 240, then only about 15 minutes for each higher grit as i progressed up.

Basically, stay on the lowest grit until you've removed as many of the pits as you want, then move up a grit and use it until none of the scratches of the previous grit remain, and then the next grit etc.

Pm me if you have any questions as you go

Lovely job, just love that blade.
Do you wet or dry sand?

I usually dry sand till about 800 then go wet, would that be OK.


cheers Gary.

 

[mdunn]

I wetsand with wd40 all the way though. It stops the paper getting too clogged up etc

 

[Kenno]

top thread mate!

 

[alex2363]

love that badger 2008 edition

 

[nosedog]

Chiming in long after this restoration was done just to say ... wow. I've never even handled a straight, but now I want to restore one!

 

[mdunn]

Chiming in long after this restoration was done just to say ... wow. I've never even handled a straight, but now I want to restore one!

Do it!

We share a ciity, so I'm only every a hoy away if you need a hand from someone in the same timezone

 

[nosedog]

Thanks Dunny, I'll remember that. One thing at a time, though. First I have to learn to use the straight that's coming my way...

 

[moostashio]

This is inspiring! I am just starting out trying to restore old blades (like, yesterday). I didn't know you could get results like that just hand-sanding. How did you get into all the tiny spots at the toe, shoulder, heel, etc? Did you use some kind of backing for the sandpaper?

 

[Heespharm]

This is inspiring! I am just starting out trying to restore old blades (like, yesterday). I didn't know you could get results like that just hand-sanding. How did you get into all the tiny spots at the toe, shoulder, heel, etc? Did you use some kind of backing for the sandpaper?

Use a large eraser as a backer or some people suggest a little bit of radiator hose always use a backer and spend the most time on lower grits (320 or 220 if really bad)

 

[mdunn]

I don't use a backer. Just my thumb

 

[daflorc]

I used 240, 360, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper. It was a few hours at 240, then only about 15 minutes for each higher grit as i progressed up.
Basically, stay on the lowest grit until you've removed as many of the pits as you want, then move up a grit and use it until none of the scratches of the previous grit remain, and then the next grit etc.

Good stuff for hand-sanders here...

 

[pmaster]

An old cork also works well to be used as backing.