- Thread starter
- #21
Protect yourself from what?
Its only with a dremel or buffer or something that you need to, and then its glasses and a leather apron or something just in case the blade is flung at you.
Straight Razor Restoration for Dummies
- Thread starter mdunn
- Start date
Protect yourself from what?
Its only with a dremel or buffer or something that you need to, and then its glasses and a leather apron or something just in case the blade is flung at you.
My razor restoration experience is very limited, but the work I have done with hand made knives and such showed me that if I worked smooth and light along the same plane I had nothing to fear. Pressure and lack of attention will get you bit. But fingers heal quick.
Very nice job! And very imformative! I would have imagined the sanding by hand would have taken much longer than a couple of hours.
This is a respectable question.
We're working with something small and sharp.
- Wear glasses...This is no foolin...
- I don't, as a rule, wear gloves. I find no need for this.
- A leather apron is quite WOW!!! i wish I had one...
I should get one as it can be a crucial life saving garb.
- a leather protective cloth or piece so when you put this on knee you're protected.
Support for the blade...Bill Ellis has a nice idea and explains how to make a support. This made sanding and working with blades more stable, thus more safe
Tom
From cutting your finger while sanding, as that hand sanded edge can be quite sharp!
Awesome razor restore! Cool razor, and now it's lookinh uber-cool! Looking forward to the burl scales!
Bandaid's are for sissies...Just slap a band-aid on it and keep on sanding!
*spits on floor, grabs superglue, and goes back to work...*
Bandaid's are for sissies...
*spits on floor, grabs superglue, and goes back to work...*
I love super glue for cuts, works great! 
I superglue all my wounds. If I thought it would work in place of stitches I think I would attempt foregoing the emergency clinic.
Actually sometimes it does. All that skin glue is is the sissy super glue without a couple of extra chemicals
.- Thread starter
- #33
ive had a fair few stitches - but ive also used superglue a couple times.
When I need stiches, I'll know. 
It'll probably be the time when the bleeding just won't stop and superglue isn't holding the two edges together.
It'll probably be the time when the bleeding just won't stop and superglue isn't holding the two edges together. - Thread starter
- #35
When I need stiches, I'll know.
yeah - you'll know.
if you can see moving parts in the hole - its time for stitches... Or so I learnt building a shed once.
Ive had a gang of stitches though, 13 in my face at last count. Serves me right for playing sport!
Why my kit contains glue, butterflys, gauze and tape. Pretty much that actually.When I need stiches, I'll know.
- Thread starter
- #37
steri strips are a pretty good too. I always keep some of those around
So I just got an inexpensive razor in the mail today that looks like it can be restored. Now, I'm still new to straight shaving (had my first shave today), but I wanted to check in for a couple of questions.
First, I want to stay completely away from the edge of the razor, correct? Would hitting it with the sand paper ruin it, or at least affect it?
Second, I got the razor mainly for the scales (tortoise shell), but is it possible to remove the razor from the scales to clean the area by the pivot, and then put it back together?
I subscribed to this thread for future reference when it was first made, and I think it'd be a good idea to move it to the new Restoration subforum. I would say make it a sticky, but there aren't even two pages of threads.
First, I want to stay completely away from the edge of the razor, correct? Would hitting it with the sand paper ruin it, or at least affect it?
Second, I got the razor mainly for the scales (tortoise shell), but is it possible to remove the razor from the scales to clean the area by the pivot, and then put it back together?
I subscribed to this thread for future reference when it was first made, and I think it'd be a good idea to move it to the new Restoration subforum. I would say make it a sticky, but there aren't even two pages of threads.
If you have to sand near the edge to get an even finish, you need to sand the edge. Do yourself a favor and sand from the spine to the edge, not edge to spine. Sanding edge to spine obliterates the bevel. Not the end of the world by any means, it simply takes a lot of work to correct.
Should you be sanding with a Dremel, it is very important that you always keep the disk/pad rotating from spine to edge. Rotation from edge to spine can and usually will cause the pad to catch the edge. When that happens, two senarios ensue: 1. broken razor or 2. broken razor and you with a chunk of that broken razor lodged in you somewhere. So just don't do it.
Yes, you can remove the blade from the scales to clean them up. There are links to videos on how to do it. Frankly, and I am far from a restoration guru, the only time I remove a blade from the scales is when I have to sand the tang. Otherwise it stays in and I clean the scales with a toothbrush and Maas, then those presoaked windex towellettes.
Should you be sanding with a Dremel, it is very important that you always keep the disk/pad rotating from spine to edge. Rotation from edge to spine can and usually will cause the pad to catch the edge. When that happens, two senarios ensue: 1. broken razor or 2. broken razor and you with a chunk of that broken razor lodged in you somewhere. So just don't do it.
Yes, you can remove the blade from the scales to clean them up. There are links to videos on how to do it. Frankly, and I am far from a restoration guru, the only time I remove a blade from the scales is when I have to sand the tang. Otherwise it stays in and I clean the scales with a toothbrush and Maas, then those presoaked windex towellettes.
So how are the new scales coming along? I hope you show some pictures for that....I have a razor I'd like to rescale, and any info would be helpful.
--Matt
--Matt
