I have a horsehide leather strop that has stiffened from being overly dry. I applied oil and tried to soften it in my hands but that caused cracking in the back of the strop. That cracking has led to ripples on the front surface so that now the blade doesn't run smoothly over it. It's an expensive strop and worked like a champ before this. What should I do?
Stiff Strop is Cracking
- Thread starter TstebinsB
- Start date
Tried rolling a glass bottle over it?
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- #3
I hate to say it but I think this is not repairable. The damage to the back is more involved than just cupping or folding. Once the fibers are broken like this there is no way the front will ever lay flat and smooth again.
That said it may be possible to roll it as flat as possible on the front and then glue it to another thick piece of leather to strengthen the broken piece. If it holds it tightly enough it may not want to bend at the breaks...the reason the front is rippled now.
Or you can keep the good linen and make a paddle strop or two from the horsehide.
Tony
That said it may be possible to roll it as flat as possible on the front and then glue it to another thick piece of leather to strengthen the broken piece. If it holds it tightly enough it may not want to bend at the breaks...the reason the front is rippled now.
Or you can keep the good linen and make a paddle strop or two from the horsehide.
Tony
Yea Tony beat me to the punch. If it's cracking on the back there are some serious issues going on there. I've never seen that happen by putting some oil on a strop. Depending on how old it is you might want to contact the vendor and discuss it.
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- #6
Thanks for breaking the news gently.
It was stiff like a board so I conditioned it with neatsfoot oil and then tried to soften it in my hands. That's when the back started to crack.
It's a vintage strop so there's no warranty.
Tat is a drawback with vintage leather. If a leather item is just "old", say a few years it may be stiff from drying out and leather conditioners and oils can help. But, if really old the leather can dry rot to the point where the fibers break down. It may soften with oil application but the damage is already done once the structure of the leather deteriorates.
I have learned this lesson the hard way on old briefcases, etc....some easily brought back to life, others money down the drain.
Tony
I have learned this lesson the hard way on old briefcases, etc....some easily brought back to life, others money down the drain.
Tony
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- #8
I like Bick products but to tell you the truth if it's cracking like that I think the damage is already done it in. But for a few bucks you can experiment.
Start with a good saddle soap ... Kiwi brand outdoor saddle soap works well to soften old dry leather. it may take several applications but it works... Luc just did this with a very old strop he got recently and its now in very usable condition... I am sure if you ask him he will be happy to send you the link to the thread he did on it.
Any good quality saddle soap will work and you can find it at any place that sells horse products
If you go online and do a search you will find retailers.
The problem with saddle soap is you have to use water with it and water and leather doesn't mix. Saddle soap was developed for thick, tough leathers like saddles and types of boots and shoes. A conditioner that has little or minimal water I think is best for finer leathers. Similar to some conditioners that are petroleum based products. In the short run they seem to condition and soften leather but in the long run they actually dry it out.
The problem with saddle soap is you have to use water with it and water and leather doesn't mix. Saddle soap was developed for thick, tough leathers like saddles and types of boots and shoes. A conditioner that has little or minimal water I think is best for finer leathers. Similar to some conditioners that are petroleum based products. In the short run they seem to condition and soften leather but in the long run they actually dry it out.
The amount of water used with saddle soap is less than that used in shaving lather and saddle soap has glycerine and lanolin as well as other things that soften and protect the leather.... also saddle soap is not just for thick leather such as saddles, it works quit well on most all leather regardless of thickness. I have used it on deer skin gloves and shoes with no ill effects. I will find the Thread Luc made of him using saddle soap to recondition a Vintage strop and post it in this thread.....
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163703#post2345789
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I would agree with Blue58 re the uses of saddle soap - leather was once a living thing and it had moisture in it - the tanning process reintroduces moisture to a certain level and that makes sure that the fibres slide over each other. A light oil dressing retains the moisture. Once the oil oxidises the moisture evaporates. If you catch it in time you can arrest and even reverse the process.
Like Tony says, once it has dried beyond a certain point the process is irreversible - the fibres will not 'bounce back' and that is that. Apart from which, a crack is crack - it is not going to heal itself. If it is just a minimal surface crack/crazing (it doesn't look like it though) some abrasion might get rid off it, but if it is deep you will be abrading into the flesh side of the leather - not a good idea.
Regards,
Neil
Like Tony says, once it has dried beyond a certain point the process is irreversible - the fibres will not 'bounce back' and that is that. Apart from which, a crack is crack - it is not going to heal itself. If it is just a minimal surface crack/crazing (it doesn't look like it though) some abrasion might get rid off it, but if it is deep you will be abrading into the flesh side of the leather - not a good idea.
Regards,
Neil
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