Somebody say something !
- Thread starter bloodyface
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #2
Yes I am talking about the leather cream.
I was told......
I was told......
something
about vague titles.
A chicken walks into a bar...........
...The what now?
what would Confucius do?
- Thread starter
- #8
What I was talking about is the leathercream. I never heard a new strop should be treated with leathercream.
I was told something about rubbing my palm on the strop, That is also what was explained on the strops userguide.
When to use the leathercream ? For maintenence or restauration ?
The best
Richardt
I was told something about rubbing my palm on the strop, That is also what was explained on the strops userguide.
When to use the leathercream ? For maintenence or restauration ?
The best
Richardt
- Thread starter
- #9
I think confucius would be confused if he was told two different things - most like other people.
But he would just come up with the solution number 3, wich problably would be better than the two first choices..
The best
Richardt
But he would just come up with the solution number 3, wich problably would be better than the two first choices..
The best
Richardt
I've never bothered with leather conditioners, not on new strops, anyway. Just a light application of skin oil when I think of it seems to keep my strop in good shape. Actually they seem to improve over time, a bit like a good old baseball glove, or comfy pair of boots.
I've used leather treatment on strops. It works GREAT on restored strops after you finish them. It works well enough on strops you've neglected. My Kamayama came with directions not to use it though, just to rub the strop with your palm before each use (the oils in your skin are the treatment in this method) and while I haven't had the strop long enough to say it works, I expect I can trust a guy who's been making the things for something like seventy years to know what he's talking about.
- Thread starter
- #12
Hi Ian & David.
Thank you for your response.
I think a guy who has been making the same stuff for 70 years, needs to sit down and have a cup of coffee and then enjoy whats left, and if he enjoys making nice strops for the straight razor community, he should - by all means - keep on going.
I guess I will continue with the handrubbing, and try to remember it before the bath, witch I suspect is a bad bad thing for my "palm oil".
I also have to mention that palm oil in Denmark would be called "hånd fedt", and translated into english it would be "palm fat". - And that was the danish word of the day.
The best
Richardt
Thank you for your response.
I think a guy who has been making the same stuff for 70 years, needs to sit down and have a cup of coffee and then enjoy whats left, and if he enjoys making nice strops for the straight razor community, he should - by all means - keep on going.
I guess I will continue with the handrubbing, and try to remember it before the bath, witch I suspect is a bad bad thing for my "palm oil".
I also have to mention that palm oil in Denmark would be called "hånd fedt", and translated into english it would be "palm fat". - And that was the danish word of the day.
The best
Richardt
I intermittently use neats foot oil provided by whipped dog razors
- Thread starter
- #14
As long as it isnt Need´s footoil, I could live with it 
I noticed some of the wide strops app 3 inch, has a tendense to "bend" in the transverse direction. It would result in uneaven honing as far as I can imagine.
Is there a way to solve this problem (if it is a problem), I was thinking in one or two cuts on the course side of the strop, NOT the whole way through the leather but 2/3.
But will there be room for "old dry" paste in the cracks with time, wich might scratch the edge on the straight ?
The best
Richard.
I noticed some of the wide strops app 3 inch, has a tendense to "bend" in the transverse direction. It would result in uneaven honing as far as I can imagine.
Is there a way to solve this problem (if it is a problem), I was thinking in one or two cuts on the course side of the strop, NOT the whole way through the leather but 2/3.
But will there be room for "old dry" paste in the cracks with time, wich might scratch the edge on the straight ?
The best
Richard.
Yes wider strops do often have a tendency to cup more, and that is one reason why a lot of people recommend narrower strops. A narrow strop, combined with a good X stroke, will ensure a nice even surface contact.
My current strop is a 3" model. It is not my ideal width, I prefer 2.5" usually, but the linen material I chose I could only get in 3". That works ok for me though, because the leather part is kangaroo, and so thin it flexes to the blade. Any minor cupping, etc that may happen will be negated by that. On thicker leathers it is not always so.
My current strop is a 3" model. It is not my ideal width, I prefer 2.5" usually, but the linen material I chose I could only get in 3". That works ok for me though, because the leather part is kangaroo, and so thin it flexes to the blade. Any minor cupping, etc that may happen will be negated by that. On thicker leathers it is not always so.
- Thread starter
- #16
I thought I might had something to do with the processing of the leather and tanning. But I dont know enough of the tanning proces to know what is good for strops.
R
R
