So what TOOLS do I need to restore Brushes?

[rodeo]

I have to admit, I am becomming pretty intrigued with the idea of restoring old brush handles, to collect and also for possible resale too. If I wanted to do this right, more or less on an ongoing basis, what tools would I need etc?

I am thinking a small drill press etc? (again, not a hand drill as this would be for ongoing restorations.)


So what tools would be "ideal" to have?
What would be needed to clean and polish handles?
What supplies are best advised?
Are there any "step by step" instructions anywhere about restorations?
Lastly, what sources are there for knots and are there any BOAR or Synthetic Knots available for purchase?


If I do it, I'm going to want to do it right and not just for one or two brushes. I like the idea of restoring old handles and have seen some pretty nice looking restorations here on these forum pages.

Thanks for your advice! I have a feeling I might really enjoy that aspect as a hobby.

 

[antoine1]

I found a Dremel type of mini drill to be best for removing the old resin plug, more useful than a drill press for this type of detail work.

You can then purchase all types of accessories for it, including polishing mop needed.

 

[mretzloff]

The Gold Nib sells hair knots. I used them before and they are good. Be sure to pick up some marine-grade epoxy as well.

 

[Luc]

As stated above.

Marine epoxy to glue the knot
A knot
A ruler to measure the hole
A pair of pliers
Scissors are optional
Corkscrew is optional
Dremel can be useful but I didn't use one
Drill can be useful but I didn't use one

 

[Legion]

Most of my restores have only involved

Needle nose pliers
various grades of wet/ dry sandpaper
epoxy
ruler
calipers
polish (Brasso and Renaissance Wax)

And occasionally my Dremel if things got really tough, but it is a last resort. Things can go wrong very quickly with a Dremel if you lose concentration.

 

[rodeo]

Whats the process?

Remove the old knot, cut it off? pull it out?
clean out the hole of glue etc. (with what if not drilled?)
Polish the handle
glue in new knot

?

 

[mretzloff]

Whats the process?

Remove the old knot, cut it off? pull it out?
clean out the hole of glue etc. (with what if not drilled?)
Polish the handle
glue in new knot

?

Here is what I did when I restores my grandfather's boar brush:

1. I cut off the hair and then soaked the brush in warm water to loosen the knot.

2. I used a drill to drill into the glue. I then picked out all the pieces. Just be careful not to drill into the handle.

3. After the pieces were removed, I mixed my two-part marine-grade epoxy and pour a little bit into the hole and put the knot on top of that. The epoxy should come with instructions for how long to let it sit before using it.

 

[Legion]

Remove the knot. First I try just pulling on it (you never know your luck...) If that doesn't work I cut it off, start pulling out the hairs from the middle to the outside with pliers. I clean out the inside with sandpaper (or a Dremel or a drill or whatever is required. Avoid power tools if possible.)

Sand the handle, up to 1500 grit. Restore the lettering if you want to. (I forgot to add paint, a brush and a cloth to the tools list)

Polish with Brasso. Apply Renaissance Wax and buff. Fill the handle if necessary, let set. Epoxy in the knot. Done.

 

[fidjit]

Here's the "tools" I use to remove knots:

From there depends on the brush itself. You MIGHT need a drill, you might needs some sandpaper , you may need a cork , you WILL need some two part expoy

( Oh and you'll need a new knot )

See my wiki ( in my sig ) for some useful posts ( especially Kevinms )

 

[rodeo]

Great stuff guys, Thank you very much! The tools look easier then I imagined and I have most of that stuff already. I have a few handles around and one I was going to throw into the trash but instead would be good to sacrifice and practice on first.

I was glad to see there are boar and synthetic knots available as I will appreciate those choices for my personal keepers.

Once you glue the knot in, does the epoxy need to come up level with the top of the handle (potted if you understand what I mean) or does the glue only go into the bottom of the knot?

Also, you mentioned Brasso, what handles do you use that on? What do I use to clean and polish the older Ever-ready handles (rubber, bakelite, catalin, etc.) ?

I'll try pulling the knot on my trial brush this coming weekend.

cork?? for what?

 

[Luc]

Great stuff guys, Thank you very much! The tools look easier then I imagined and I have most of that stuff already. I have a few handles around and one I was going to throw into the trash but instead would be good to sacrifice and practice on first.

I was glad to see there are boar and synthetic knots available as I will appreciate those choices for my personal keepers.

Once you glue the knot in, does the epoxy need to come up level with the top of the handle (potted if you understand what I mean) or does the glue only go into the bottom of the knot?

Also, you mentioned Brasso, what handles do you use that on? What do I use to clean and polish the older Ever-ready handles (rubber, bakelite, catalin, etc.) ?

I'll try pulling the knot on my trial brush this coming weekend.

cork?? for what?

I glue my knot everywhere, under, the sides...

I didn't use brasso on my handles just a fine steel wool (next to the dishsoap cleaning products). I used it on plastic handles

The cork would be used as a shim to have the knot at the right height. Specially if you don't have any bottoms in the handle or if it's really deep so the knot can rest on it.

 

[rodeo]

So, this is NOT Rocket Science after all!

I was picturing something much more involved but this is more like whittling on a hunk of wood with a pen knife.

Please explain what you use on the handles again, you're using steel wool on the plastic handles?

 

[skipnord]

I use a drill press and Forstner bits to remove the old knot, but I'm a tool freak - you can see by the above posts that a press is not necessary. A drum sander on a Dremel is great for cleaning up the inside of the hole. A caliper to measure the hole for new knots is handy. Spar Varnish works well to refinish wood handles - CA glue also works well, but can be tricky to handle - this from a guy that got careless and glued 2 fingers together - that's another story! The polish and steel wool is for the plastic part of the handle. Good luck, and have fun! Good that you have some throw-a-ways to practice on.

 

[jwhite]

I use toothpaste and an old tooth brush too clean old handles of soap scum if needed, and I have had bad luck with steel wool on plastic handles leaves 'em looking like sort of a mat finish to my eyes. I like to use automotive plastic scratch remover. Any auto parts store will have it. If it will remove the scratches from headlight covers it's the right stuff. I use a rag wheel buff to bring out a good shine

 

[rodeo]

Well I just bought a Dremel 300 with kit just in case it comes in handy doing restorations. I found a really great deal (it seems) in case anyone else is looking for one. $49.13 plus very reasonable $6.99 shipping. Most others get allot more for these. (300-1/24) brand new sealed package, vendor has 10 of them listed. I'm sure it will come in handy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130410394821&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

IT'S BUY IT NOW, NOT AN AUCTION

 

[johnmrson]

I use a cordless drill, a Dremel with a few different attachments, some strong 2 pck epoxy resin and a pair of pointy nose pliers.

I firstly cut off the old knot at the base with a cutting wheel on the Dremel. I makes very short work of it although the burning hair smell isn't too pleasant. I then drill 3 or 4 big holes into the old knot base. The knot will then mostly pull out with the pliers. I then tidy up the hole with a sanding drum on the Dremel and it's then ready to measure up for the new knot. If the hole is in between knot sizes, I'll bore it out further with the sanding drum. Then it's just a case of glueing a new knot in the hole. If the outside of the handle needs a polish I use a polishing wheel on the Dremel with some car paint cutting compound and polish.
If I can do it successfully, it really is easy. Just buy a couple of really cheap old brushes and have a go.

 

[Schwert]

Definitely not rocket science. A handful of tools or a shop full of tools all can get it done in style.

This is my favorite of the how-to threads....

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2172915#post2172915

 

[rodeo]

Definitely not rocket science. A handful of tools or a shop full of tools all can get it done in style.

This is my favorite of the how-to threads....

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2172915#post2172915

Gives me even more confidence! Thanks.

 

[Legion]

I don't use the steel wool.

I use wet/ dry sandpaper (wet) Up to the 1500 grit on all plastic, Bakelite handles (Be careful on butterscotch, it can sand away if you are too enthusiastic) and then the Brasso as the next polishing step. Brasso works because it is a fine abrasive. As someone else said, You can use toothpaste as and even finer abrasive after that. This is also a good way to polish acrylic so it is glossy or transparent (if you were making straight razor scales, etc.)

Brush restores are actually one of the simpler DIY jobs in wet shaving. You do not need expensive tools. Just a bit of elbow grease.

Oh, and don't use too much epoxy. Just a two or three mm layer on the bottom of the hole should be enough. It will squish up the sides a bit when you seat the knot. If you put too much in, it will go up over the lip and into the knot, causing all sorts of drama.

 

[K.T.]

It's my understanding that marine grade epoxy is not necessary, just any two part mix epoxy.

I think the main benefit of marine grade epoxy is that it will bond surfaces together underwater, probably not necessary for brush restores. All epoxies will be waterproof once cured, so there should be no difference in the end unless you are, in fact, gluing your knot to your handle underwater. That's my understanding, anyway. But the difference in price between the two is insignificant, so if you don't already have epoxy on hand it wouldn't hurt to go with marine grade.

Someone mentioned putting that blue masking tape used for painting on the outside of the handle while sanding and scraping. I think that's a good idea. It'll give some protection to the handle's surface if there's a slip of a tool.

I'm looking to do my first restores this coming month, myself. I'm excited, too!