So what TOOLS do I need to restore Brushes?

Discussion in 'Brush Making and Restorations' started by rodeo, Jul 26, 2010.

  1. Luc

    Luc Moderator Emeritus

    I did yes... It's a very very fine steel wool. I'll take a picture later...
     
  2. I will stress again not to use too much epoxy. I have put too much epoxy in the hole of the handle before. The knot acts like a wick and the epoxy will climb right up the hairs. This leaves an unsightly glue mark on the knot and makes it look bad. All I use for epoxy now is marine grade. I have one brush I put together about 6 months ago come apart. I had used regular two part epoxy. Now I don't trust its use.

    Terry
     
  3. Another thing I just thought of. Before glueing the knot in the handle take a Q-Tip or a rag soaked with alcohol and clean the hole and bottom of the knot.
    This will remove any dust or oils and ensure a good bond between the surfaces.

    Terry
     
  4. I'm one for the drill press.I use a mini variable speed.Used to use a dremel but you have to be very cautious because of the speeds that a dremel runs.I drill out the bulk of the knot with the press and then chuck up the dremel drum sander bit on lowest speed the press operates at to clean up the hole.There's alot more control this way.One other thing is that if you want to open the bore up a little bit you can use a stepped drill bit to enlarge the rim, then use a drum sander bit to sand out the cavity to match the rim.Those old brushes look alot better with bigger knots and usually the handles have plenty of material to work with.
     
  5. I normally score the sides and the bottom of the knot holder and the sides and bottom of the handle with a small knife or pin or something similar.

    I only put a small amount of epoxy on the base and the edges of the knot holder. Better too little than too much as I can always re glue if it ever falls out but if I get epoxy on the bristles or oozing out the top there's no turning back .....
     
  6. Legion

    Legion Moderator Emeritus

    You can save it if you are quick and have lots of ethanol handy but, gee you would rather not have to, it's a bad feeling.

    I'm with you, I would rather possibly re-glue a knot in some distant future date than to try and clean up an epoxy disaster zone.
     
  7. Luc

    Luc Moderator Emeritus

    Here they are, the steel wool that I used on the plastic handles. They are not the big heavy duty ones... It worked pretty well on the white plastic, it's now actually, white!
     
  8. Legion

    Legion Moderator Emeritus

    I would have thought that would scratch the handle up. Do you sand after or what, Luc?
     
  9. Luc

    Luc Moderator Emeritus

    No, very light pressure and I ended up with a nice smooth handle.
     
  10. Those look like "Brillo" pads, pink soap and all. I'll have to try that out on a sacrificial trial handle.

    I picked up a genuine butterscotch handle last week and in the process of doing the tests to see if it was real "catalin" dipped it in very hot (maybe too hot) water and the water removed some of the butterscotch color from the handle. I saw the water begin to turn yellow. That forced me to redip the entire handle to try to even it out, which it did. However it did lose some of its butterscotch shine and appeal and appears much more muted now. So that experience has me leery (and that was just hot water!) The handle did pass the 409 test and the smell test too, so I'm pretty sure it is catalin. I won't be using the hot water test again I dont think.

    You dont think the steel wool would remove the butterscotch patina as well? maybe I'l try it on that same handle.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 27, 2010
  11. Luc

    Luc Moderator Emeritus

    No idea... Those are pretty mild but worked quickly after all...
     
  12. I would be very light with the cleaning especially with steel wool. Hot water shouldn't wash the real Butterscotch pantina off. I suspect what came off might have been the "dirt" layer.

    The butterscotch layer is an "oxidised" layer on the white catalin.

    Excessive cleaning WILL remove the lovely creamy butterscotch layer so be very..very light and careful !!!!!

    I normally just do a light clean with Silvo ............
     
  13. First, THANKS ALOT! Just what I need! :sarcasum: :lol: I just had to read this...Great, now SWMBO is really going to love the fact I have to at least try this now! I am very anxious to try it! As far as dremels go, I got this combo from my brother for X-mas. Works very well! very controllable compared to "standard" dremel.

    [​IMG]

    *Rodeo- I think that is a little too much. It shouldn't be any more than a few dollars. I dont know, if you are aware, but that is for six(6) tubes. Any epoxy will work... it is just that some are made specifically for certain things, but all should work given ample time to cure. I have a bunch of aircraft grade epoxy from work surplus, that is what I am gonig to use.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2010
  14. Sorry fot the double post, but I had to share this!! :lol: It's made from a paint brush! +1 for innovation though!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2010
  15. Thanks and no, I didn't realize that price was for six tubes.

    I looked into that same dremel last night and was very interested in it until I read a bunch of reviews, all with a common theme. The battery (they say) has a short life it seems and doesn't hold much charge after owning it a while. I decided to go with a corded dremel 300 instead. That does look like a great package though, the right size and all.
     
  16. And I'll bet both would "sell' on ebay! :biggrin1:
     
  17. I have had zero issues with it. I dremel itself is great! Has the adjustable speeds (1-10) and I use it a few times a month. I know it isn't getting an industrial workout at my house, but it works when I need it! The bit driver is sweet! I have a corded ryobi drill for heavy duty things, but everythnig else, I use that dremel one. It is a beast. We just had a baby and I have only charged it once about 2 months ago. Haven't used it much but I used it to put together a crib, dresser, and glider...I can still keep going! I haven't priced them, but if it is under $100 or $75, definitely worth it! I hope everything works out for you! I want to start making my own brushes now!! Now...where to get a mini lathe... :lol:
     
  18. Congrats on the new Baby! Is it a boy so you eventually teach him to shave? Or will that be Mom's duties? (girl). We "noobs" need to stick together and share information as we hit stumbling blocks restoring these brushes. Compare notes so to speak.. Right? :thumbup1: (I did just also buy a mini suction cup vice today though.)

    ($28 new, shipped - from TMS Wholesale)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ils?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1280246778&sr=8-1&seller=
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 27, 2010
  19. haha I bet they would too, but I wouldn't buy either! I would use SWMBO's make-up brush before I spent my hard earn $ on one of those!

    BUT...I have to say, seeing the one, makes me think how neat an " industrial" looking brush would look. :tongue_sm
     

Share This Page