Should i try to repair these cracks?

[Macduff]

So i picked up this 1920 tuckaway a few months ago and although it shaves fine, the tubing is loose due to the standard pressure cracks these things develop. I’m planning on having the razor replated so i’m wondering if i should repair the cracks using this method:

Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.

OR should i just send it off for replating? The cracks are not substantial so i was thinking the replate may just seal them? Thoughts? Opinions? All input is appreciated!

 

[KeenDogg]

I would contact Chris Evatt @ Razorplate. I am willing to bet he would say that the cracks will need fixed first before plating. Cap should be able to fix the cracks. Since they are a team, you will be in good hands.

Kindly,
Adam

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[romsitsa]

Hello,

it's not necessary to fix the crack, but it has to be cleaned. Judging by the size, there is some material missing, so the it can be made smaller, but it will be visible. Instead of glue I'd solder the neck into the tube while pressing it together to minimise the crack.

Adam

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Instead of glue I'd solder the neck into the tube while pressing it together to minimise the crack.

Adam

Before you undertake any action to repair the handle you need to know of the plating wil adhere afterwards.

 

[Ron R]

It might be cheaper to buy a replica of this handle at Razoremporium IMO and get a superior product.Brass with a nickel coating that is threaded at each end not pressed ends like the old Gillette model ones were that create cracks.
I'm not sure if Razoremporium is a sponsor of B&B.
When you get to their site type "Gillette ball end handle" in their search engine.
I fixed my cracked brass ball end handle by giving the loose end a little cleaning with emery paper and then using some loctite 603 for adhesion. That handle will not come off and is much stronger than the original possible because loctite makes superior adhesion products world wide.

 

[Macduff]

It might be cheaper to buy a replica of this handle at Razoremporium IMO and get a superior product.Brass with a nickel coating that is threaded at each end not pressed ends like the old Gillette model ones were that create cracks.
I'm not sure if Razoremporium is a sponsor of B&B.
When you get to their site type "Gillette ball end handle" in their search engine.
I fixed my cracked brass ball end handle by giving the loose end a little cleaning with emery paper and then using some loctite 603 for adhesion. That handle will not come off and is much stronger than the original possible because loctite makes superior adhesion products world wide.

That’s tempting but i kind of want to keep it all original. The cracks are pretty minimal for a 99 year old razor so i feel like i’d like to give it a new life.

 

[Macduff]

Before you undertake any action to repair the handle you need to know of the plating wil adhere afterwards.

Yeah that’s why i was going to try the repair i linked. It’s basically pressing the cracks back together and sealing it from the inside which would avoid putting any different metal on the exterior. Plus i’m not that good at soldering and don’t want it to look gross. I’ve seen some members solder cracks and make it look perfect but i don’t think i’d be able to duplicate it.

 

[romsitsa]

Before you undertake any action to repair the handle you need to know of the plating wil adhere afterwards.

If soft solder gets plated, it can cause ugly things, but it's on the inside (if something goes wrong, a layer of copper can fix it). No problems with silver solder.

Glue is more than likely to fail during plating except it's heat and acid resistant.

Adam

 

[Esox]

Yeah that’s why i was going to try the repair i linked. It’s basically pressing the cracks back together and sealing it from the inside which would avoid putting any different metal on the exterior. Plus i’m not that good at soldering and don’t want it to look gross. I’ve seen some members solder cracks and make it look perfect but i don’t think i’d be able to duplicate it.

If you eventually want it replated and restored, what you use to fix the crack with, might end up being removed during the plating process.

If you do want it fully restored I'm with Adam. Cap and Chris do this all the time.

I would contact Chris Evatt @ Razorplate. I am willing to bet he would say that the cracks will need fixed first before plating. Cap should be able to fix the cracks. Since they are a team, you will be in good hands.

 

[romsitsa]

This is a replated handle with really tiny hairline cracks in the knurling, silver is a massive 8 microns thick and still, even the smallest crack is visible.



Adam

 

[Macduff]

If you eventually want it replated and restored, what you use to fix the crack with, might end up being removed during the plating process.

If you do want it fully restored I'm with Adam. Cap and Chris do this all the time.

Yeah i hate to farm out something i could do myself but after hearing all the replies it seems like that’s the best route. I hadn’t considered that the epoxy inside might re-liquify during the plating process. That’s exactly why i love this forum. Great advise from everyone.

And also knowing that the plating won’t cover even the tiniest cracks leads me to the conclusion that i should just give it to the pros for a full restoration.

The question now is whether it’s worth it. I guess i’ll decide when it’s time. What’s cool is the tuckaway has the exact date of manufacture stamped on it (Jan 13th 1920) so maybe i’ll save the decision until it’s 100th birthday. Thanks again for all the input!

 

[Esox]

This is a replated handle with really tiny hairline cracks in the knurling, silver is a massive 8 microns thick and still, even the smallest crack is visible.

If the diameter of the neck was lessened a bit, that crack might have closed completely, but then it wouldnt be a friction fit anymore.

Yeah i hate to farm out something i could do myself but after hearing all the replies it seems like that’s the best route. I hadn’t considered that the epoxy inside might re-liquify during the plating process. That’s exactly why i love this forum. Great advise from everyone.

I'm guessing at the plating process. If it was something I planned on fixing myself I'd have to look into the solutions used during the plating process and make sure whatever epoxies I was going to use wouldnt be affected by them.

As I said above, the handle and necks fit together, as far as I know, with a friction fit and the cracks appear due to stress of the inside pressure. This is why they need to be turned down a bit so the handle can be compressed enough to close the crack. Doing that means both pieces will become one piece though.

 

[romsitsa]

If the diameter of the neck was lessened a bit, that crack might have closed completely, but then it wouldnt be a friction fit anymore.

The handle was sanded down for a fit, but it doesn't really affect the cracks. This other little pesky thing on a New was invisible before plating. It acts like a magnifying glass...



Adam

 

[cyberdog]

If you don't address the cracks, they may very well expand further. I'd follow the repair steps, or have Cap do so, then fill the missing material with silver solder or something that will fill the crack, yet allow the plating to adhere.

 

[Esox]

It acts like a magnifying glass...

The fresh and shiny new surface yeah. Flaws are hard to hide on a glossy finish but much easier on a matte finish.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

What’s cool is the tuckaway has the exact date of manufacture stamped on it (Jan 13th 1920) so maybe i’ll save the decision until it’s 100th birthday.

Im thinking you have little over one year to save money and have the work done to reveal it on this forum on it's 100 year anniversary date.

 

[romsitsa]

You have more time, 1920 is the patent date. for a manufacturing date look for the serial number on the top of the comb. If there is no number then it was produced between October 1927- August 1928.
US Gillette Dating Information

Adam

 

[Macduff]

You have more time, 1920 is the patent date. for a manufacturing date look for the serial number on the top of the comb. If there is no number then it was produced between October 1927- August 1928.
US Gillette Dating Information

Adam

Oh man that totally killed my dream! Oh well. Still a cool razor. Either way, if i get it refurbished i’ll certainly post pictures here. Thanks for all the replies!

 

[romsitsa]

Sorry mate.

Adam

 

[BigJ]

This is a replated handle with really tiny hairline cracks in the knurling, silver is a massive 8 microns thick and still, even the smallest crack is visible.

View attachment 931673 View attachment 931671

Adam

GREAT POINT!!