My beard isn't particularly tough and my skin is a little sensitive, so I use a rather mild setup. A Merkur barberpole and Derby green blades. I do have some tough spots around the adam's apple that are tough to get smooth. The razor can drag a little in these areas as well when shaving against the grain. Many times I wind up applying more pressure and getting some nicks/razor burn. I was advised that a sharper blade may be the answer since the Derby's are notoriously mild. Any wisdom or recommendations?
Should I try a sharper blade?
- Thread starter Kenyth
- Start date
Smooth is more important than sharp, IMO. However, some blades offer a great combination of sharp and smooth. Gillette Platinum and PolSilver SI come to mind.
Nothing wrong with trying more blades, but prep and technique generally trump equipment. Those trouble spots are probably the areas that need the most prep, so review that.
When tempted to use pressure, use technique instead. For example you can hold a swallow to flatten your adams apple. The grain may change there, so pay attention to that. Try bullfrogging. Try moving that section of skin to one side or the other, where it may be easier to shave.
And remember that you are the only one who will notice a little roughness on that trouble spot. But everyone will notice irritated skin.
When tempted to use pressure, use technique instead. For example you can hold a swallow to flatten your adams apple. The grain may change there, so pay attention to that. Try bullfrogging. Try moving that section of skin to one side or the other, where it may be easier to shave.
And remember that you are the only one who will notice a little roughness on that trouble spot. But everyone will notice irritated skin.
- Thread starter
- #4
Probably not much more prep that can be done. I've learned to prep and soften well as it avoids irritation. It sounds like I can improve technique though. I do move my head and throat around, but hadn't thought to pull the skin taut with my fingers. I will give that a try.
Perma-Sharp Super
+1. I have wild hair patterns on my neck in general. At least four different convergences of hair pattern direction. I can get the beard to look like it isn't there, but it is never smooth. BBS to me is slightly lower than jawline up through my face. I can get my neck BBS, but the next day it looks awful. No one notices if it's a little scratchy, but everyone notices when it looks horrible.
+1 on that!
+2 to test driving other blades. For me and YMMV, The Polsilver SI and the Gillette Silver Blue seemed Smoother and sharper than the Derby. The Feather was really sharp but not as smooth as teh PSSI or the GSB.
Good luck,
MR
Good luck,
MR
- Thread starter
- #9
Adjusting technique worked! After paying close attention to what was happening, I realized that the curve of my neck in that area wasn't allowing me to get the razor flat against the skin when going against the grain. Pulling the skin taut while moving the razor across the skin at an angle allowed me to get the little buggers. Thanks for the tips guys!
Instead of going across the skin like this -> | ->
I moved it across the skin like this -> \ ->
Instead of going across the skin like this -> | ->
I moved it across the skin like this -> \ ->
Great point and well said.
I would get a blade sampler and try some others. Astra SP's, Gillette Silver Blues, and Sharks are both sharp and smooth.
I would get a blade sampler and try some others. Astra SP's, Gillette Silver Blues, and Sharks are both sharp and smooth.
They should've called em Perma Smile
Definitely try some other blades. Never had good luck with the Derbys, sometimes a mild blade can 'pull,' if you're feeling this sensation a sharper (and smoother) blade might fix the problem
aj
aj
I have always found that it is easier to shave daily with a sharper blade in combination with a medium aggressive safety razor. At the end it gives me a closer, smother and irritation free shave especially in the neck area. When i use Feather New Hi-Stainless, i fell that the blade glides in my face...other blades that they also give me great shaves are: PolSilver Super Iridium, Personna Lab Blue, Gillette 7 o' clock Super Platinum (Indian Black), Perma-Sharp Super and Astra Superior Platinum. Don't be afraid to use sharp and "unforgiving" blades...just have in mind that if your tech-nick is good you will never have nicks and cuts and always sharper is smoother.
+1
