Shoe making methods

[cleanshaved]

I have always bought shoes with no regards for the method that they have been made.
That has resulted in shoes that look good when new but just don't last.
Well that changed a few years ago when I bought a pair of double stitchdown sole shoes. I think that's called veldtschoen construction.

I'm a visual sort of guy and enjoy watching to understand better.
I found these videos not only gave a good understanding of the process but a better appreciation for what's on my feet for many hours per day.

This is the double stitchdown by a company I have bought a few pairs of shoes from.
It's the only video I could find of them making shoes. It does not appear they have this exact shoe is made for Barkers NZ anymore. The styles may alter but the technique is the same.

Goodyear Welt Shoe Construction. I believe this is a more common method than above.

 

[ajkel64]

Thanks for the information. I have never really thought about the construction of shoes/boots but it was interesting watching the videos. Food for thought.

 

[cleanshaved]

A informative video but he thinks there is only three methods.............he does not mention of veldtschoen construction or any others. Guess he is referring to 3 main methods.

 

[eelhc]

So my first pair of Ferragamo loafers used the traditional, quality construction methods and lasted years. Ferragamo is now using a molded rubber sole. Not paying $550 for throwaway shoes.

 

[Marco]

A great method for manufacturing leather shoes is also the Blake-Rapid. This method is very popular among the best Italian shoemakers and, for those interested, I explained it here www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/velasca-shoes-the-young-italian-dream.500868/ in my thread on Velasca.

 

[Rhody]

Ya thanks for this info! Barker shoes look fantastic

 

[cleanshaved]

Thanks @Marco great post. The Blake-Rapid sounds like a good method.
I'm contemplating getting a pair of Italian shoes soon. I'll be make better informed decisions when I start looking.

 

[Marco]

Thanks @Marco great post. The Blake-Rapid sounds like a good method.
I'm contemplating getting a pair of Italian shoes soon. I'll be make better informed decisions when I start looking.

My pleasure, Sir. An experienced cobbler confirmed me what I already knew about Blake-Rapid shoes: they can easily be re-soled in the exact same way as the Goodyear welted shoes. Both methods are excellent, with the Blake-Rapid being the favourite choice of the Italians and the Goodyear the favourite choice of the British.

For a great pair of Italian shoes, at an honest price, I strongly suggest Velasca. If you desire more exclusivity (and are ready to drop some heavy money!) Santoni or Ferragamo.

 

[Doc4]

the Blake-Rapid being the favourite choice of the Italians and the Goodyear the favourite choice of the British.

That was my understanding as well. And for those wondering about Alden and Allen Edmonds ... they tend to follow the English.

For a great pair of Italian shoes, at an honest price, I strongly suggest Velasca. If you desire more exclusivity (and are ready to drop some heavy money!) Santoni or Ferragamo.

Any B&B members thinking of investing in a good pair of Italian shoes would do well to ask Marco ... and listen well to the advice!

 

[Marco]

That was my understanding as well. And for those wondering about Alden and Allen Edmonds ... they tend to follow the English.

Any B&B members thinking of investing in a good pair of Italian shoes would do well to ask Marco ... and listen well to the advice!

Thank you very much, Sir.

Please, Gentlemen do enjoy these great videos below!

​

 

[cleanshaved]

Any B&B members thinking of investing in a good pair of Italian shoes would do well to ask Marco ... and listen well to the advice!

Hear, hear!!

Thank you very much, Sir.

Please, Gentlemen do enjoy these great videos below!

​

Thanks for the videos, Marco.

Santoni and Ferragamo look really good but the price is a but high for my budget.

Velasca looks like a good fit for quality, style and budget for me.
I spent a bit of time last night trying to find a local supplier with no luck, so had a look at their web site. Velasca | Handcrafted leather shoes for men, 100% made in Italy
They offer a 10% discount on your first purchase "And, if you get into trouble, shipping and returns are free in the USA, Canada, Norway and Switzerland"
As I'm from New Zealand shipping rates apply but still stacked up for cost. Good reviews from all around the world. None from NZ though...........I may need to fix that wrong.

I spent a bit of time surfing their site and noticed they not only offer a leather and Vibram winter rubber sole, that the method is Blake-Rapid for the leather sole and simply a Blake for the vibram.
Being from a wet climate I'm leaning towards the vibram sole.

 

[Marco]

Hear, hear!!



Thanks for the videos, Marco.

Santoni and Ferragamo look really good but the price is a but high for my budget.

Velasca looks like a good fit for quality, style and budget for me.
I spent a bit of time last night trying to find a local supplier with no luck, so had a look at their web site. Velasca | Handcrafted leather shoes for men, 100% made in Italy
They offer a 10% discount on your first purchase "And, if you get into trouble, shipping and returns are free in the USA, Canada, Norway and Switzerland"
As I'm from New Zealand shipping rates apply but still stacked up for cost. Good reviews from all around the world. None from NZ though...........I may need to fix that wrong.

I spent a bit of time surfing their site and noticed they not only offer a leather and Vibram winter rubber sole, that the method is Blake-Rapid for the leather sole and simply a Blake for the vibram.
Being from a wet climate I'm leaning towards the vibram sole.

Sir, I agree entirely on your thoughts on the Italian shoes and yes, Velasca is my brand of choice, too! I already own 3 pairs of Velasca and have one with leather soles and two with Vibram rubber soles. Honestly, my favourite option for the soles is the Vibram rubber: it is great in any weather condition, it's VERY durable, it's maintenance free and looks just as great as the leather counterpart. As about the slightly different construction method used here is the main reason: the leather soles have a much inferior lifespam, hence the need for the Blake-Rapid, which ensures recraftability and robustness. The Vibram rubber soles are pretty much indestructible and already extremely robust on their own. Since these thick high quality rubber soles (Vibram is the finest in Italy) last many, many years and can seriously withstand a lifetime of usage, there's really no need to resole the shoes. Therefore the choice of the Blake system, which provides more flexibility and lightness.

 

[BigJ]

Terrific thread! I learned a ton about shoes. THANKS!

 

[nffclsr]

One day I will make it to John Lobb Ltd for a bespoke pair of shoes.

Here is a great video about them:

 

[Marco]

Hear, hear!!



Thanks for the videos, Marco.

Santoni and Ferragamo look really good but the price is a but high for my budget.

Velasca looks like a good fit for quality, style and budget for me.
I spent a bit of time last night trying to find a local supplier with no luck, so had a look at their web site. Velasca | Handcrafted leather shoes for men, 100% made in Italy
They offer a 10% discount on your first purchase "And, if you get into trouble, shipping and returns are free in the USA, Canada, Norway and Switzerland"
As I'm from New Zealand shipping rates apply but still stacked up for cost. Good reviews from all around the world. None from NZ though...........I may need to fix that wrong.

I spent a bit of time surfing their site and noticed they not only offer a leather and Vibram winter rubber sole, that the method is Blake-Rapid for the leather sole and simply a Blake for the vibram.
Being from a wet climate I'm leaning towards the vibram sole.

Chris, if you need any further info or help on Italian shoes do not hesitate to ask. I'm here at your disposal.

 

[Vintagerodshop]

Handcrafted Dress Shoes & Sneakers Reinvented For Modern Men
Acemarks Shoes. Made in Italy. They are hosting a new campaign. This will be their third one. I bought two pairs from the first campaign. They fit perfect when I got them. I am not affiliated in any way. Just a impressed customer that is difficult to impress as I am a type A perfectionist.

 

[cleanshaved]

Chris, if you need any further info or help on Italian shoes do not hesitate to ask. I'm here at your disposal.

Thanks, Marco. Your input, as always is first class and much appreciated.

One day I will make it to John Lobb Ltd for a bespoke pair of shoes.

Here is a great video about them:

That was a very enjoyable video, thanks for posting.
I would need to win lotto to have a pair of shoes made for my me.

 

[cleanshaved]

I have a old pair of Meindl boots. They have taken a beating hunting with bush and river bashing and just keep on going. Watching the video they look like their first model of gore-tex boots.
Good to see just how they have been made.

Something from a shoe maker for work boots.
I had a pair of screw on soles many moons ago, when working in the building trade.....well sort of the building trade.
There use to be over 100 shoe makers here in NZ. I think there is less than 10 left. While I don't see myself buying anything from this company, it's good to see he still going.

This guy does not look comfortable in front of the camera.