Shapton Set?
- Thread starter Arkwell
- Start date
Could you restate the question?
The standard progression on the Shapton Glass is the (500), 1K, 2K, 4K, 8K, 16K, (30K).
However, there are some other really good stones in the Glass series that get overlooked because of the mathematical aspect. Specifically, the 3K, 6K and 10K.
The 16K as a finisher is very nice, and like all finishers, is subject to personal taste. I tend to go from 8K to 10K and skip to the 30K, although I, and many others, have had wonderful shaves off the 16K.
But in the spirit of Spinal Tap, Shapton goes to 30K
However, there are some other really good stones in the Glass series that get overlooked because of the mathematical aspect. Specifically, the 3K, 6K and 10K.
The 16K as a finisher is very nice, and like all finishers, is subject to personal taste. I tend to go from 8K to 10K and skip to the 30K, although I, and many others, have had wonderful shaves off the 16K.
But in the spirit of Spinal Tap, Shapton goes to 30K
- Thread starter
- #4
I want to sharpen my St8's using Shaptons and since there are a lot of them & discussion is usually on 16k & 30k finishing stones I wanted to know which Shaptons take a dull or nicked St8 up to the 16k or 30k.
All of them. That answer seemed a bit too trivial though, so I thought I might have misunderstood your question.
How low you need to start with depends on the shape of your razor. I've never needed to go below 1k myself, but I could see where a major chip might need something faster. At any rate from there you work up through their full progression (1k,2k,4k,8k,16k,30k) and you're good.
For serious work, there are the #120, #220 and #320 glass stones. The #120 is probably too coarse for most razor applications. The #220 is the previously lowest stone. It is aggressive, but won't chip out the edge. It does leave scratches, but very consistent ones. The #320 is new, and is a buttery stone, Both the #220 and #320 are suitable for serious repairs. Personally, I would opt for the nicer finish of the #320 over the more aggressive #220.
For minor touching up of a dull blade, the 2k, 3k, and 4k will do the trick. when you have minor chips, or are setting anew bevel, the 500 and 1K come in very handy.
Again, the traditional progression is to double 1k,2k,4k,8k,16k,30k. While it is best not to skip, you can - you'll just need a little more time on the stone after the skip. Luckily the glass stones are fast. The toughest transition on a razor for these stones (IMO) is between the 4k and 8k.
I have used the Shaptons for two years now and think I could get by on a 1K, 4K, 8K and the 16K. I would also have to have a balsa paddle with CrO for the final finish. I would say get these first and then fill in the gaps as you wish to complete the set. I also have a set of Japanese Damaskas Kitchen Knives that I progress all the way to 16K and all I can say is WOW.
bj
bj
This is exactly my setup and I am very happy with it. I am considering adding a 2K, but that's about it. With this progression, my self-honed blades are equaling many of the pro-honed blades I have had the privelage ($$) to try.
The only thing that I would add to that is that I think you need one less than 1k. the 320 sounds ideal. It's good for setting the bevel on totally blunt straights.
I use a Shapton glass hone 500 for setting a bevel. For a dull razor (after breadknifing) I use 3 layers of tape and do ~50 strokes. Then I remove 2 layers and do more strokes until the blade shaves arm hairs at skin level. Then I proceed to finer stones keeping 1 layer of tape.
IMO, the 500 Shapton Glass is good for most bevel setting, but the #220 and #320 are excellent for serious work.
If you've bread-knifed, I would consider the #220 or #320.
If you've bread-knifed, I would consider the #220 or #320.
I use a shapton glass set consisting of:
1k simpel bevel setting
4k for initial polish
6k for a nice polish
8k for a very good polish (you can stop at this point without pastes, if you´re good)
followed by hardly more than 10-20 strokes on the 16k for a perfect polish
(very good shaving edge without pastes, if skillset is good enough)
at this state an edge can be considered very good, almost scary sharp
and recently added a 30k for a really crazy edge
The 1k is not quick enough to do some bevel repair. For this purpose I use a coticule, but a Shapton GS 500 would be an option.
The biggest jump in my system is from 1k to 4k wich is doable.
1k simpel bevel setting
4k for initial polish
6k for a nice polish
8k for a very good polish (you can stop at this point without pastes, if you´re good)
followed by hardly more than 10-20 strokes on the 16k for a perfect polish
(very good shaving edge without pastes, if skillset is good enough)
at this state an edge can be considered very good, almost scary sharp
and recently added a 30k for a really crazy edge
The 1k is not quick enough to do some bevel repair. For this purpose I use a coticule, but a Shapton GS 500 would be an option.
The biggest jump in my system is from 1k to 4k wich is doable.
+1
I find the that the 6K really makes the transition between the 4K and 8K much smoother.
Similar threads
