Richwood that's been cut.

[vtguy22]

Hello,
I'm looking for some advice. I got a really good deal on a Richwood on ebay. It looked pretty grungy, but cleaned up reasonably well. It's got quite a bit of plating loss, but I want to get it redone in rose gold anyway, so that's okay. I did notice however, that the cap rattled around a bit. Upon closed inspection, I think I know why. I noticed the handle has been shortened about 1/8 inch, the date is about cut in half, and I confirmed by comparing to my Bostonian. It seems my choices are removing a couple of threads from the cap, or add a spacer of some sort. Any other ideas?





Thanks,
Paul.

 

[MacDaddy]

I wouldn't think that cutting the threaded post alone would solve your problem. Likely what's happening is that the threads in the inner barrel are hitting the end of the threaded portion of the shaft on the cap. If that's the case then you might be able to get a die and cut the threads a little further up the shaft. You may need to tap the threads further into the inner barrel, too, or cut a bit off the end of the shaft to compensate, but if that's necessary tapping would probably be preferable since it's the less destructive of the two.

 

[elmerwood]

You have to shorten the length in the barrel handle, removing the some threads on head will likely do nothing because the handle will still protrude through the barrel the same amount. Do you have any other new improved razors you can measure to see exactly how much they removed so you know what to cut from your handle? If your nervous about doing it yourself or have any questions let me know, I can do it for you to help you out.

 

[vtguy22]

Thanks for the advice. I considered deepening shaft, but I'm worried about how I would drill it deeper without damaging the existing threads. I have a drill press and vise, would that be all I need?

Thanks!

I wouldn't think that cutting the threaded post alone would solve your problem. Likely what's happening is that the threads in the inner barrel are hitting the end of the threaded portion of the shaft on the cap. If that's the case then you might be able to get a die and cut the threads a little further up the shaft. You may need to tap the threads further into the inner barrel, too, or cut a bit off the end of the shaft to compensate, but if that's necessary tapping would probably be preferable since it's the less destructive of the two.

 

[vtguy22]

Thanks for the response! It looks like about 1/8" difference between it and my Bostonian. So you are thinking the barrel is butting up against the neck that is pressed into the handle? That would make sense. I do not have access to a lathe, but I do have a dremel and hack saw. What would you recommend using to shorten that barrel?

Thanks!

You have to shorten the length in the barrel handle, removing the some threads on head will likely do nothing because the handle will still protrude through the barrel the same amount. Do you have any other new improved razors you can measure to see exactly how much they removed so you know what to cut from your handle? If your nervous about doing it yourself or have any questions let me know, I can do it for you to help you out.

 

[elmerwood]

I would put it in my lathe and shorten,drill and tap all.in one location. You could do it with less though.

 

[MacDaddy]

You have to shorten the length in the barrel handle, removing the some threads on head will likely do nothing because the handle will still protrude through the barrel the same amount. Do you have any other new improved razors you can measure to see exactly how much they removed so you know what to cut from your handle? If your nervous about doing it yourself or have any questions let me know, I can do it for you to help you out.

If it's rattling inside the handle when it's tightened up then the length of the inner barrel isn't the problem. There's enough play between the inner barrel and the bottom of the neck inside the handle tube for it to rattle up and down -- in fact it's probably still the knob hitting the bottom of the tube even now. I don't think that he's lost enough of the tube to need to shorten the barrel once the threading's lengthened on the shaft so the barrel screws up farther.

If you take the inner barrel and cap out and screw them together on their own you'll see where it's running out of threads.

 

[vtguy22]

If I remove the cap, the barrel will sit flush with the tube, so I think adding the threads is probably the right approach. How would I go about deepening the pocket without damaging the existing threads? Do you know what size tap I would need?

Thanks again for all of the ideas.

 

[MacDaddy]

I don't know what size off the top of my head, and I'm out on my phone right now so it's a bit hard for me to look it up. I know there are threads on here that would have that info if you search for them. Or perhaps some one can point you to them before I get to a real computer. You may not need to tap the inner barrel further, though. I would start with the shaft on the cap and see if there's already enough room in the barrel to take up the new threads. Then you only have to worry about the barrel if it bottoms out.

 

[elmerwood]

Well I've done a little number crunching and here is what I've come up with according to measurements taken from my New Improved. First there is not a ton of play as it when it comes to thread length. When both pieces are tightened on my NS I've come up with a gap of .020 (that doesn't include the thickness of the blade which would obviously help). I've included some pictures of my auto cad drawings to show in better detail. The first picture is the of the barrel of my NS, you can see I have another .029 that I can tap further if I needed to. The second picture is of the the barrel and the top as if they were screwed down tight with out a blade in the tray. You can see I have a gap of about .020 before the barrel would no longer tighten on the head. The last picture is of what my NS would look like if the barrel had been shortened .1250 of an inch. You can see how much more you would need to run the threads in the barrel. Also because of the interference where there are no threads on the shaft connected (arrow on last picture) you would need to probably run a die down it to add threads or take a little off the length of the barrel to make it work. But these are just the measurements off my New Standard yours may be a little different. Either way let us know what you do and the outcome.

 

[vtguy22]

Thanks! My father has the right tap, so I'll try it out tomorrow. Hopefully no drilling will be needed as I can see that damaging the threads pretty easily.

 

[vtguy22]

Finally got back to this. My first try wasn't very successful. So I put in a bunch of tap oil, and that worked better. Not sure if I cut metal or 80 years of soap scum, but it's fixed! Locks up tightly now.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[MacDaddy]

Sweet! Always great to see a tool returned to service.

 

[elmerwood]

Congrats my friend. Just last week I picked up a single ring with "no made in" or trademark that had been cut as well. Lucky for me it still works, so in case it goes till I find a better one.