repairing a hairline crack in gillette safety razor

[habibrobert]

Hi everyone,

I have a Gillette safety razor--I'm not sure what the exact model is, but it's stamped "Patent NOV 15 1904."

Anyways, this razor has a hairline crack on its handle that I'd like to repair. I tried to fill the crack with some solder, but the solder did not sick to the handle. I'm wondering if there is a specific type of solder I should be using? Or is the handle made of a type of metal that does not respond to soldering? I also tried using flux to help the solder stick, but that did not work.

I've read up on how some use an epoxy glue to fix problems like these. The only reservation I have for that solution is that I'd be unable to re-plate the razor, as the newly applied epoxy would not allow for the plating to adhere to the handle. This assumption is correct, right?

I would really appreciate any advice on how to fix this crack while allowing for the razor to be re-plated without any issues.

Thank you very much!

 

[DoubleEdgedDandy]

Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.

This is a great guide to use. This guide will show you how to use an epoxy to fix the crack. I haven't seen anyone have any luck with solder. It sounds like you have a single ring old type that needs to be repaired, in that case the handle is the same as the ball end handles and if the crack is really bad you may be better off swapping it out. Hopefully this helps

 

[Highspeedlane]

I've gotten low temp solder to work well. Once I deliberately bought a sorry looking ball end Old Type (cheap) with the intention of repairing it. The crack visible in this pic was just one of three cracks...there was another long one on the other side at just as bad and another lesser one:

There are some that use adhesives but I chose solder to keep the handle weight (and razor balance) exactly as original:

Ultimately the cracks closed up well. Though one is still visible, it is now a sound handle. These handles were originally lacquered to add an additional layer of wear and corrosion resistance so I followed suit with mine, giving the handle a full dip in clear lacquer once "surgery" was complete:

Many of these old razors exhibit at least one crack and if it does not result in looseness of the ball or the head, I just leave them as is. When the head and ball were originally pressed into the rolled handle tube, the tube was not properly annealed (softened) prior to the operation, and the work hardened brass was still relatively brittle. Over time this is what contributes to the handle tube cracking.

Good luck and hope all goes well with your rescue effort

 

[User 306]

I have a user grave NEW Deluxe Big Boy and it had a hairline crack in the top part of the handle. I sent it Cap and it’s very very hard to see it. Then I had the handle gun coated and it’s almost impossible to see it now.
I guess is all about how you feel about the razor and how much your willing to spend to get it to your liking. That whole process only cost me $65 for everything.
Here’s what it looked like afterwards. It’s the one up front and the hairline crack is showing if you can find it.

 

[DoubleEdgedDandy]

If it is a ball end razor it will be easier to fix due to the fact that you don't have to worry about leaving residue in the shaft. If it is an old type single ring you would have to make sure that nothing is left inside that would prohibit the end piece to slide freely inside.

 

[romsitsa]

Hello,

try to get rid of solder renamts before plating, except it was silver soldered.
If it didn't adhere to the handle either the temperarure was too low or the surface wasn't clean.

Adam

 

[BigJ]

I've gotten low temp solder to work well. Once I deliberately bought a sorry looking ball end Old Type (cheap) with the intention of repairing it. The crack visible in this pic was just one of three cracks...there was another long one on the other side at just as bad and another lesser one:

There are some that use adhesives but I chose solder to keep the handle weight (and razor balance) exactly as original:

Ultimately the cracks closed up well. Though one is still visible, it is now a sound handle. These handles were originally lacquered to add an additional layer of wear and corrosion resistance so I followed suit with mine, giving the handle a full dip in clear lacquer once "surgery" was complete:

Many of these old razors exhibit at least one crack and if it does not result in looseness of the ball or the head, I just leave them as is. When the head and ball were originally pressed into the rolled handle tube, the tube was not properly annealed (softened) prior to the operation, and the work hardened brass was still relatively brittle. Over time this is what contributes to the handle tube cracking.

Good luck and hope all goes well with your rescue effort

Great work!! I especially appreciate the photos!!

 

[ReapersBlade]

I've had luck with using jb weld on a brass rod inside the tube. Used a hous clamp and let it cute a few days

 

[Highspeedlane]

Great work!! I especially appreciate the photos!!

Thank you