I'm curious how SR shavers view the relationship between sharpness and comfort and the razor burn thing. I use a DE and really don't have a cutting the whiskers problem. My problem is the burn and irritation. If I use a new, very sharp blade (Feather), and very light pressure, it leaves a less than BBS. If I shave to BBS, I get burn. On the 4th shave or so, there seems to be a sweet spot where it comes out perfectly. If I use a less sharp blade, I don't get burn on the first 1 or 2 shaves, but it happens later when I need to get more aggressive to get a BBS. So, do you have this range of sharpness and comfort as well, or is it that you get a great shave on a razor freshly returned from a honemeister, and then it starts dropping off? Or, can a straight be too sharp like some of the new DE blades? Is razor burn just not a problem in the SR world? You probably know where this is leading, but I'm just wondering if you struggle with this sharpness/comfort balance thing as well, or is it mostly a DE thing.
Razor burn and sharpness
- Thread starter Mink
- Start date
Yes, razor burn can be a problem in straight shaving as well. What I've found is that it can be one (or a combination of) the following factors:
• An edge that is starting to fade (loosing it's sharpness)
• To steep an angle with the blade
• To much pressure
• A poor lather/lack of lubrication.
Razor burn really is just a little bit of skin being removed, exposing the nerve tips and capillaries.
In your case, with the DE, you might practice a different angle (handle further towards perpendicular to the skin) and see if that helps, as it should reduce the "scraping" effect. The more aggressive DE's make it harder to achieve the best angle by making it easier to scrape more hair off, rather than forcing the user to focus on angle more carefully. This is one of the reasons I'm glad I started with a Weishi. It's a very "mild" razor, so it only cuts well within a narrow range of angles, and forces you to get that angle right.
Stretching the skin also helps more in str8 shaving as it stabilizes the whiskers, makes them stand rigid, and allows them to be cut off cleanly, rather than allowing them to "lay over" a little bit. This actually works well with DE's too. Try watching a couple of str8 videos to see how they are stretching the skin, then try that with a DE with no pressure and a very shallow blade angle, and see if that helps.
Good luck!
Stephen
• An edge that is starting to fade (loosing it's sharpness)
• To steep an angle with the blade
• To much pressure
• A poor lather/lack of lubrication.
Razor burn really is just a little bit of skin being removed, exposing the nerve tips and capillaries.
In your case, with the DE, you might practice a different angle (handle further towards perpendicular to the skin) and see if that helps, as it should reduce the "scraping" effect. The more aggressive DE's make it harder to achieve the best angle by making it easier to scrape more hair off, rather than forcing the user to focus on angle more carefully. This is one of the reasons I'm glad I started with a Weishi. It's a very "mild" razor, so it only cuts well within a narrow range of angles, and forces you to get that angle right.
Stretching the skin also helps more in str8 shaving as it stabilizes the whiskers, makes them stand rigid, and allows them to be cut off cleanly, rather than allowing them to "lay over" a little bit. This actually works well with DE's too. Try watching a couple of str8 videos to see how they are stretching the skin, then try that with a DE with no pressure and a very shallow blade angle, and see if that helps.
Good luck!
Stephen
I think it's a DE thing.
DE razors deteriorate from day 1 because of the cutting action and because of rust. No attempt is made to resharpen the edge.
Straights are stropped before use and this removes rust and realigns the edge keeping the edge consistantly refreshed and sharp.
The straight takes a long time to master with all of its idiosyncracies but when you know what you are doing you can put an edge on a good razor that with just daily stropping will retain a consistantly comfortable edge which can last for a few months. By that I mean the edge gives a delightful close and comfortable shave that remains consistant for months.
It is quite complex to understand all the idiosyncracies. But experience plays a big part as does owning a good quality razor. I think that when you start out with a straight, it is quite easy to dull a sharp edge and overcompensate with pressure in exactly the same way as you can witha DE and with the same uncomfortable results. If anything, it is probably more uncomfortable and this discomfort and difficulty in learning the skill to keep the edge sharp is the reason some guys give up with a straight.
Incidentally, I did use a Feather straight and for me, even after the first couple of shaves and after the blade had softened, I found it to still remained dangerously sharp. Some say that there is no such thing as too sharp. I don't agree with that. I think that there is a comfortable edge. On a DE, the edge hits that spot for maybe three of say seven shaves. On a straight with a daily refreshing on a strop, the edge hits that spot for months.
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The first few times I used a straight I got massive razor burn. To me its incorrect angle and pressure in excess. Also more minor is if you have more sensitive skin which just needs to adjust to a straight.
I think that irritation is either the result of poor lather or technique issues. I've never had my hands on a razor that was too sharp to provide an irritation free shave. I have had poor technique at one time that led to a lot of irritation. 
You are correct in your observations. They do transfer to the world of straights.
HOWEVER.
Unlike a DE, we get to adjust our angle! *profit!!!!* The burn is caused by the razor taking off a lot of skin. A sharper razor will take off more skin, assuming the same angle and pressure, than a duller razor. Hence, more burn.
BUT!
The straight razor's angle can be dropped to the spine touching the skin. I haven't heard any stories of razor burn occurring using this angle.
Therefore, the razor burn will not occur with a straight if your good with it. It might occur if you change up your honing methods or honemeister and get a sharper or harsher edge. Yes, some edges are harsher, but thats a different thread.
HOWEVER.
Unlike a DE, we get to adjust our angle! *profit!!!!* The burn is caused by the razor taking off a lot of skin. A sharper razor will take off more skin, assuming the same angle and pressure, than a duller razor. Hence, more burn.
BUT!
The straight razor's angle can be dropped to the spine touching the skin. I haven't heard any stories of razor burn occurring using this angle.
Therefore, the razor burn will not occur with a straight if your good with it. It might occur if you change up your honing methods or honemeister and get a sharper or harsher edge. Yes, some edges are harsher, but thats a different thread.
