When I'm honing a vintage razor that needs a good amount of metal taken of the edge because of chips and such, if I use tape on the spine, what would happen if I didn't use tape on the finer hones? Would the blade still get sharp? I don't want to have to use tape throughout my whole progression. The reason I'm asking this question is because I honed a vintage razor without using tape that had virtually no spine wear. When I finished setting the bevel the spine had a good amount of spine wear. A lot more than I want to see. If I could use tape on the 1K and not the others, that would be good.
Question About Spine Wear When Bevel Setting
- Thread starter raccoonandbrush
- Start date
No can do. Either use tape through out or not.
You can set the bevel with tape to get chips and what not out then start the bevel set again with out tape. That will help keep the hone ware down.
You can set the bevel with tape to get chips and what not out then start the bevel set again with out tape. That will help keep the hone ware down.
If take off the tape after the 1k, the subsequent stones would likely not contact all of the bevel. So for the most part it's either tape, or no tape.
Too much spine wear is sometimes an indication of too much pressure on the razor especially the spine.
Too much spine wear is sometimes an indication of too much pressure on the razor especially the spine.
To hone out chips, I hone with the spine just off the stone until all chips are gone, then kill the bevel and set it with the spine on the stone.
- Thread starter
- #5
If I do decide to use tape, I will do what you say and re set the bevel afterwards without tape.
if i were you ide take out chips or set he bevel on a very blunt razor with tape and then reset the bevel with no tape that should keep the spine wear to the minimum
- Thread starter
- #7
That's what I was wondering if the bevel would still be touching. I bet am I using too much pressure. I guess I need to dial it down a bit.
Until very recently I was using too much pressure myself 
Here's what I do. I tape and remove all the ugly with a 600 DMT. Then I take off the tape, glass the edge, set the bevel properly with a LPB and slurry, and hone from there. Works for me.
Doesn't apply here, but just so's you know, you can go no-tape to tape (double bevel), but as said above, tape to no-tape will get you a polished bevel that isn't sharp.Think of a "v", then in your minds eye, push a skinnier V up to it from below...it will touch the sides of the first V, but not the vertex.
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