I know the gd66 need a lot of work generally to make them easy to hone and use (working on one on and off now). I've also read that the 200 generally are much closer to a finished razor rather than a razor blank--often ready to hone and use out if the box. Where do the 100s fall? Are they well ground? Does the heel need a lot of work? Can they be honed without a lot of grinding? Other issues?
Question about different gold dollar models
- Thread starter Chaloney
- Start date
It's always luck of the draw.
With the 100s or 200s your odds are better.
But, none of it is really THAT bad. Even with the 66s. Just dremel off the heel, and you're ready to go.
With the 100s or 200s your odds are better.
But, none of it is really THAT bad. Even with the 66s. Just dremel off the heel, and you're ready to go.
Good forum for yet another question I was wondering about.
Is the steel the same quality?
I know the 800 is supposed to be stainless steel so obviously a different beast, but are all the other ones the same basic metal?
Is the steel the same quality?
I know the 800 is supposed to be stainless steel so obviously a different beast, but are all the other ones the same basic metal?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I think the steel is all the same except for the stainless steel one which is as common as alligator feathers.
I see some 800s on eBay all the time, but not cheap ($50 to $60 vs. $5 for a 66).
I just bought a shave ready 66 from Buca3152, and I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised. Even GD enthusiasts disparage the scales. I was expecting to pull it out of the box and have the scales crack in half and fall on the floor. They aren't custom ebony, but considering the price, I really don't feel that they are so bad. I'm quite impressed.
Josh
Josh
I found the 200, having double shoulders, to be worse than the single shoulder ones.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
The 66 scales are really cheesy looking and bendy but they are very tough. Absolutely shatterproof IYAM.
The GDs with the double stabilizers I actually don't always remove the heel or the entire heel. I just flatten them off with dremel and coarse sandpaper on a piece of rubber hose. That inner one often doesn't intrude into the bevel plane anyway.
I usually prefer the 66 for modding because:
(A) There is lots and lots of steel to work with, and
(B) They are the cheapest ones.
The GDs with the double stabilizers I actually don't always remove the heel or the entire heel. I just flatten them off with dremel and coarse sandpaper on a piece of rubber hose. That inner one often doesn't intrude into the bevel plane anyway.
I usually prefer the 66 for modding because:
(A) There is lots and lots of steel to work with, and
(B) They are the cheapest ones.
I've just taken delivery of a Gold Dollar 66 today - as a challenge for when I think my honing is good enough.
For the very low price, I'm pleasantly surprised - especially to find that the infamous heel is mostly already ground down, though I'll probably take a bit more off. The bevel is only on one side, which is less than ideal, so there's a lot of metal to be removed.
The scales are clearly very cheap, but they seem to be functional and strong enough, and they even have a support where a third pin would be located.
For the very low price, I'm pleasantly surprised - especially to find that the infamous heel is mostly already ground down, though I'll probably take a bit more off. The bevel is only on one side, which is less than ideal, so there's a lot of metal to be removed.
The scales are clearly very cheap, but they seem to be functional and strong enough, and they even have a support where a third pin would be located.
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