OK so I know what is meant by shimming the Ming Shi (Qshave) and not a razor blade the typical shim thing.
Switch head, springs and turning it helped. Maybe is was safe enough; but it still tilts. More on high setting where I use it. So...
I used a aluminum can and scissors to cut strips to make round shims. One for outside the spring and one for inside (I saw pics of this somewhere). This made it really stable and well beyond good enough.
Notes:
a) I messed with the side channels just a bit so that there was even less twist when look down from the top. Probably just leave that alone.
b) For the bigger shim (outside the spring) cut the width to stick up; about the size of the blade edge on a DE blade. This adsd more stability and there's about that much space (above this hole and holding the spring) in the bottomed-out lowest setting position that can be more support. Tight tolerance here as too much would prevent mildest setting(if you care). Also leave extra length and cut the circle to size; AFTER pressing it in and that means it will overlap until trimmed. I used a smaller round item to roll it into a circle. Make an very even shim.
c) The smaller shim inside the spring has to go around the the bar (screw top) above the threads. Screw the handle all the way into the threads (just those two pieces) and you can see in can't be longer than that. Basically above the threads. A tight fit stabilizes on the mildest setting; but mainly we want better on the wildest setting. I found curling it around the thread first, leave half out and curled slightly tighter then let me get in into the spring as I inserted it over the shim/threads. Then in positions under the spring and up top over the threads. Now when dissembled and putting it back it would find its way (tightly) with the spring on post first. The other end fits tightly in to the base (bigger shim there). You can put the spring with the smaller shim in it into the biggest base shim and pressing all together (both shims) with your thumb to align. Then it will take the threads.
d) Still getting some weirdness with which way the bottom plate inserted. Two dots to the left they say. (When facing the dial mark). Top cap is not a problem.
After all is like the base level (0.5 to 6) goes from about where 2.5 to 8.5 would be. Then doing the next level up thing is like a 4.5 to 10.5(at 6). Looking at the side gaps. That's plenty. The stability is excellent on the first level. You may have trouble going back down to the first level if everything not right. Even then; like I said it does not go all the way down (it's like 2.5); which is good for me.
Evenness side to side is excellent and I have to push with all my might to effect any slight unevenness. Very cool. Thanks for the ideas. Note you still may need to switch parts around to get it where you want it.
Switch head, springs and turning it helped. Maybe is was safe enough; but it still tilts. More on high setting where I use it. So...
I used a aluminum can and scissors to cut strips to make round shims. One for outside the spring and one for inside (I saw pics of this somewhere). This made it really stable and well beyond good enough.
Notes:
a) I messed with the side channels just a bit so that there was even less twist when look down from the top. Probably just leave that alone.
b) For the bigger shim (outside the spring) cut the width to stick up; about the size of the blade edge on a DE blade. This adsd more stability and there's about that much space (above this hole and holding the spring) in the bottomed-out lowest setting position that can be more support. Tight tolerance here as too much would prevent mildest setting(if you care). Also leave extra length and cut the circle to size; AFTER pressing it in and that means it will overlap until trimmed. I used a smaller round item to roll it into a circle. Make an very even shim.
c) The smaller shim inside the spring has to go around the the bar (screw top) above the threads. Screw the handle all the way into the threads (just those two pieces) and you can see in can't be longer than that. Basically above the threads. A tight fit stabilizes on the mildest setting; but mainly we want better on the wildest setting. I found curling it around the thread first, leave half out and curled slightly tighter then let me get in into the spring as I inserted it over the shim/threads. Then in positions under the spring and up top over the threads. Now when dissembled and putting it back it would find its way (tightly) with the spring on post first. The other end fits tightly in to the base (bigger shim there). You can put the spring with the smaller shim in it into the biggest base shim and pressing all together (both shims) with your thumb to align. Then it will take the threads.
d) Still getting some weirdness with which way the bottom plate inserted. Two dots to the left they say. (When facing the dial mark). Top cap is not a problem.
After all is like the base level (0.5 to 6) goes from about where 2.5 to 8.5 would be. Then doing the next level up thing is like a 4.5 to 10.5(at 6). Looking at the side gaps. That's plenty. The stability is excellent on the first level. You may have trouble going back down to the first level if everything not right. Even then; like I said it does not go all the way down (it's like 2.5); which is good for me.
Evenness side to side is excellent and I have to push with all my might to effect any slight unevenness. Very cool. Thanks for the ideas. Note you still may need to switch parts around to get it where you want it.
