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Polishing Ti

I've got a Ti Shield Predator with a bead blasted finish and was wondering how difficult it would be to polish.

I have a stainless steel Stando handle that was bead blasted and I polished it with a progression of sandpaper and my buffing it on my wheel to a mirror finish.

Thing is, I know that Ti is a harder material and tough I suspectthe same method will suffice, I don't want to begin the job only to wish I never started.

So, to the metallurgists out there (or anyone with experience or insight):

How difficult is it to polish Ti?
 
I've only tried it once. I tried polishing my matte finished Ti Timeless. I had no success. I've heard Ti is much harder to polish because of the makeup & structure of the molecules. I know some experts have been successful at polishing. Keep us posted what you decide.
 
I've only tried it once. I tried polishing my matte finished Ti Timeless. I had no success. I've heard Ti is much harder to polish because of the makeup & structure of the molecules. I know some experts have been successful at polishing. Keep us posted what you decide.

This is what I figured. I'm probably going to leave it as is.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I've got a Ti Shield Predator with a bead blasted finish and was wondering how difficult it would be to polish.

I have a stainless steel Stando handle that was bead blasted and I polished it with a progression of sandpaper and my buffing it on my wheel to a mirror finish.

Thing is, I know that Ti is a harder material and tough I suspectthe same method will suffice, I don't want to begin the job only to wish I never started.

So, to the metallurgists out there (or anyone with experience or insight):

How difficult is it to polish Ti?
I use to machine Grade 5 Titanium round bar stock for our chemical pump shafts and it was a pain to machine long lengths because for it would warp with any heat that was generated when machining(coolant on it all the time). It is kind of softer metal and slightly softer than 316 SS IMO. Small short pieces prevents warpage and finishing for bearing fits was tricky also. I think you can get a nice finish for a razor but it is done with a progression of different grit sizes and polishing with a Dremel tool has to be carefully done (don't polish the underneath areas where blade is clamped because it will not be as accurate anymore).
The metal is usually a dull greyish look to it and not as shinny as chrome or polished 316 SS. I prefer 316 SS over titanium but just my preference. Titanium will gull easier than other metals also, it's just the way it is when using titanium fasteners or locking nuts on pump shafts I found. Good luck with polishing.
 
Blackland stopped offering their Ti razors in a polished finish due to problems getting a perfect polish. That should give you a hint ;)

Timeless polished Ti razors look great (to me) but it is not the mirror polish that stainless steel or aluminum gives. It's just the nature of the material.
 

Iridian

Cool and slimy
Very good and accurate reports and info posted above.

Even polished titanium always has this blue-ish tint, it's simply not as shiny as polished steel. I even find machined steel usually nicer to look at.

I have knives with titanium scales and aluminum scales. The aluminum gets rubbed shiny just by putting them in the pockets of the pants (most often seen by "Alox" scales SAKs), titanium doesn't ... I wonder what kind of sandpaper one would need to polish it effectively.

Someone here on the forum recommended a paste for a shiny finish and hopefully reads this and comments. Maybe that is an easier solution than ruining the razor by a failed attempt.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I hand polished all my matte finish razors and handles. They don’t turn out “shiny” like the polished versions, but the Simichrome I use brings them to a low luster. This does include the many Ti Crown handles I have, along with the Ti 0.68OC head.

Personally, I didn’t care for the gritty texture all my matte gear had, even the SS stuff. An artisan knife maker recommended Simichrome way before I got into wet shaving. It is said to work via a chemical reaction, not abrasion. That appealed to me. I’ve tried a few others, but prefer Simichrome.

As was already mentioned, Timeless polished titanium is nice. I like having a mixture of both finishes but that’s purely personal. I’ve read and been told from a couple of the razor manufacturers directly that the matte finishes are less prone to scratches, so there is that.

All my bronze razors are polished. I’m hoping they don’t end up all scratched up over time because I use all of them.
 
I use to machine Grade 5 Titanium round bar stock for our chemical pump shafts and it was a pain to machine long lengths because for it would warp with any heat that was generated when machining(coolant on it all the time). It is kind of softer metal and slightly softer than 316 SS IMO. Small short pieces prevents warpage and finishing for bearing fits was tricky also. I think you can get a nice finish for a razor but it is done with a progression of different grit sizes and polishing with a Dremel tool has to be carefully done (don't polish the underneath areas where blade is clamped because it will not be as accurate anymore).
The metal is usually a dull greyish look to it and not as shinny as chrome or polished 316 SS. I prefer 316 SS over titanium but just my preference. Titanium will gull easier than other metals also, it's just the way it is when using titanium fasteners or locking nuts on pump shafts I found. Good luck with polishing.

Blackland stopped offering their Ti razors in a polished finish due to problems getting a perfect polish. That should give you a hint ;)

Timeless polished Ti razors look great (to me) but it is not the mirror polish that stainless steel or aluminum gives. It's just the nature of the material.


Doesn't sound like polishing is worth the effort.

I hand polished all my matte finish razors and handles. They don’t turn out “shiny” like the polished versions, but the Simichrome I use brings them to a low luster. This does include the many Ti Crown handles I have, along with the Ti 0.68OC head.

Personally, I didn’t care for the gritty texture all my matte gear had, even the SS stuff. An artisan knife maker recommended Simichrome way before I got into wet shaving. It is said to work via a chemical reaction, not abrasion. That appealed to me. I’ve tried a few others, but prefer Simichrome.

As was already mentioned, Timeless polished titanium is nice. I like having a mixture of both finishes but that’s purely personal. I’ve read and been told from a couple of the razor manufacturers directly that the matte finishes are less prone to scratches, so there is that.

All my bronze razors are polished. I’m hoping they don’t end up all scratched up over time because I use all of them.

I have Simichrome, been using it for years. I may try it on the razor just to smooth it a bit.
 
I've got a Ti Shield Predator with a bead blasted finish and was wondering how difficult it would be to polish.

I have a stainless steel Stando handle that was bead blasted and I polished it with a progression of sandpaper and my buffing it on my wheel to a mirror finish.

Thing is, I know that Ti is a harder material and tough I suspectthe same method will suffice, I don't want to begin the job only to wish I never started.

So, to the metallurgists out there (or anyone with experience or insight):

How difficult is it to polish Ti?
I would say very difficult. When I had a titanium Henson I posted my polishing adventures in the Henson Club thread. The handle was always pristine but the razor head itself had spot formations.
 
Thinking back to days when I was learning to be machinist. Titanium was light, and tough.

We did some part for Skunkworks in Burbank.

Stuff was no fun to machine because it was harder then nails.

Have you tried Jewlery Rouge cloth?
 
I looked into polishing Ti. From my research, you need to know what you're doing to polish Ti. And you need the correct materials to get it done correctly. I feel very comfortable polishing SS, brass or bronze. I was going to polish my Ti Shield Predator, but decided to keep the original finish.

If I had a polishing wheel rather than a Dremel, I would have attempted.
 
I looked into polishing Ti. From my research, you need to know what you're doing to polish Ti. And you need the correct materials to get it done correctly. I feel very comfortable polishing SS, brass or bronze. I was going to polish my Ti Shield Predator, but decided to keep the original finish.

If I had a polishing wheel rather than a Dremel, I would have attempted.

I've got a small bench-top wheel. Still, I'm thinking this is one of those jobs that I would regret starting. I'm leaving well enough alone.

Besides that, bead blasting tends to hide imperfections and I'm not confident in what may be lurking underneath. If it was a straight machined finish I would have a better idea of what I was working with.
 
I would say very difficult. When I had a titanium Henson I posted my polishing adventures in the Henson Club thread. The handle was always pristine but the razor head itself had spot formations.

Sorry it didn't work out as you hoped. I may wander over and have a look at the thread.
 
Good thread.

I have an inexpensive watch with a Ti case, it has a matte dove-grey colour, and it's very comfortable to wear.

My Ti razor handle never looks very shiny, it gets an oxide layer like aluminium.

No wonder — it wants to combine with anything. You can't smelt it, it tries to combine with the carbon, so you have to resort to reducing it with magnesium or sodium.

That's why it is a fancy material, not because it is scarce.
 
Thinking back to days when I was learning to be machinist. Titanium was light, and tough.

We did some part for Skunkworks in Burbank.

Stuff was no fun to machine because it was harder then nails.

Have you tried Jewlery Rouge cloth?
Wouldn't it have been easier to just say Lockheed Martin? :facep:
 
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