Partial Taping Questions

[Alum of Potash]

By partial taping, what I mean is tape being used at one or two stages in the honing process, rather than throughout the honing process. So, for those of you who are inclined to foreswear taping, thinking that it interferes with the razor's inherent design and geometry, I am wondering what you might think of taping initially for an edge needing serious correction (chips, uneven bevel and/or spine), and beyond this, for bevel-setting at ~600 to ~2k, so as to prevent out-of-the-routine spine wear. This would be followed by a removal of the tape at ~4k and beyond. Wouldn't the 4k be able to play catch up to the negligible difference introduced by the tape? And wouldn't 4k-8k and beyond without tape be within the range of "routine non-taped honing" anticipated in the razor's design, rather than the coarser stones?

 

[Slash McCoy]

If anything, I would think tape would be more appropriate for the finish. I have toyed with the idea of a half dozen light laps on .1u film, with tape, to create a very small and very smooth compound bevel, particularly on a blade with a very acute bevel angle. I am thinking it would make a very robust, but still sharp, edge. Just sayin. I.e. thinking out loud.

At coarser grits, the influence of tape on the bevel is greatly magnified. Just keep it in mind as you mull over whether to tape or not. And ask yourself what honers did before 1946, when vinyl electrical tape was invented.

 

[jred]

I think taping when serious edge correction is needed is *more* likely to disturb the geometry of the blade. Like if you need to remove a MM from the edge to get rid of chips. A decade of honing a non-damaged edge might take off the same MM, but it would also reduce the thickness of the spine. Edge correction is basically speeding up the "age" of the blade.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I think taping when serious edge correction is needed is *more* likely to disturb the geometry of the blade. Like if you need to remove a MM from the edge to get rid of chips. A decade of honing a non-damaged edge might take off the same MM, but it would also reduce the thickness of the spine. Edge correction is basically speeding up the "age" of the blade.

Exactly.

So it just boils down to whether or not you think the edge geometry is important or not. To me, it is, unless I am honing a showpiece that I will seldom shave with and rarely hone. Of course this kind of blade will likely never need any heavy work done on it except once in its lifetime. That would be small potatoes, I guess.

 

[smalltank]

honewear is a cosmetic issue for some who dont want it at all..some people dont mind..I dont like it at all..so I avoid it all costs and keep my razors taped from my DMT1200 til im done with my Coticule n oil polish/sharpening

 

[Alum of Potash]

Thanks for the responses. I understand and appreciate Slash's and jred's explanations, but a variety of viewpoints/explanations is also to be welcomed. Again, this is mostly about whether or not it would be advisable to tape at the start, followed by removing it midway in, say, a water-stone progression--rather than an absolute "to tape or not to tape"-type query.

 

[Proinsias]

I don't tend to use tape towards the end of honing unless a decent edge is proving problematic. I have on occasion used 1 layer of tape at the start if I'm going to the dmt 325 and need to repair the edge - not so much removing the tape at a specific point in the progression and more trying to wear it all away by the time I'm coming off the 1k.

 

[hig789]

I agree with slash, taping at the very end technically should make for a stronger edge, much like a micro bevel when honing knives. I would be interested if this would make for a edge that would last longer.

 

[blackman]

I agree with slash, taping at the very end technically should make for a stronger edge, much like a micro bevel when honing knives. I would be interested if this would make for a edge that would last longer.

What would be considered the 'very end'? Right before the finishing stage? In the middle?

 

[Slash McCoy]

The finish. Actually, sort of a post-finish.

 

[Doc226]

Again, this is mostly about whether or not it would be advisable to tape at the start, followed by removing it midway in, say, a water-stone progression--rather than an absolute "to tape or not to tape"-type query.

You can't do this. Once you start with tape you MUST finish with tape. If you remove tape the very edge of the edge will not make contact with the stone. You can add tape during the process (not recommend to use more than 1 layer as tape compresses) but to remove tape, you MUST reset the bevel to a non taped bevel.

What would be considered the 'very end'? Right before the finishing stage? In the middle?

If you want to create a secondary bevel then you would add just at the very end-a Unicot sort of.

 

[blackman]

I see. Thanks guys.

 

[rickboone1]

I recently had a very warped blade. I tried darn near everything. I did a "partial" taping and got a great edge on it! By partial in this case, I mean only a portion of the spine was taped. This allowed the blade to actually lay flat on the hone and take an edge.

 

[Wid]

I recently had a very warped blade. I tried darn near everything. I did a "partial" taping and got a great edge on it! By partial in this case, I mean only a portion of the spine was taped. This allowed the blade to actually lay flat on the hone and take an edge.

I've done the same with good results.

 

[rickboone1]

I've done the same with good results.

Another member told me about it and at first I thought he was off his rocker. Worked like a champ! I spent a LONG time on this razor prior to this.

 

[life2short1971]

I have revised my tape use on my blades where I only use tape if I am doing corrective work but for finishing I forego the tape unless at the end stages I want to put tape on to eek that last little bit of keenness and make the edge a tad more durable.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Personally, I don't understand how adding tape at the very end will make the edge more durable. As far as I can tell, this is to create a secondary "refined" bevel in a similar fashion to pasted strops. And since folks say that the rounded pasted edge will not hold up like direct finishing on a stone, what's the difference with the secondary bevel? It's just angular on the way to being rounded.

 

[Kentos]

Adding tape makes the bevel angle wider(bigger?) so in theory it would be stronger.

I tape blades that need chips removed. Then remove the tape for setting the bevel and continue on tapeless.

 

[Alum of Potash]

I don't tend to use tape towards the end of honing unless a decent edge is proving problematic. I have on occasion used 1 layer of tape at the start if I'm going to the dmt 325 and need to repair the edge - not so much removing the tape at a specific point in the progression and more trying to wear it all away by the time I'm coming off the 1k.

Thanks everyone. This one's got my vote. I like the idea of starting out with a strip of tape from the start on the coarser stones and honing right through it to the end!