I thought I would take a few minutes and describe how to get started with straight razors and how I hone my straight razors. There are other ways to hone a blade that work equally well. This method works for me.
A couple of items to set the stage. First, if you are new to straight razors I suggest you begin by purchasing a straight razor that has been honed by someone who knows what they are doing. This will serve as your baseline for how a sharp razor should feel and look. Study the edge under magnification to see what a good edge should look like. And learn what a good edge feels like when you shave.
In my case I felt it was important for me to learn how to shave with a straight razor before I started honing. There is nothing more frustrating than purchasing a “shave ready” razor that tugs and pulls and isn’t really sharp. Many online stores sell straight razors, but not all come shave ready. If it is not clearly stated then contact the seller and find out if the razor has been properly honed. “Shave ready” and “factory edge” are terms that mean different things to different people. A shave test will tell you pretty quick whether you have a properly honed blade. I purchased a new Dovo Classic 6/8 SR from Classic Edge. It came shave ready.
Second, to get started with SR shaving all you really need is a properly honed razor and a board or paddle strop. Why a board or paddle strop? As a beginner you may not want to make a big investment – you may just be dipping your toe in the SR waters. A board strop is inexpensive and very easy to use. I was that beginner and I wasn't sure SR shaving was for me. So I purchased a board strop. The flat surface provides good guidance to ensure you lay the blade flat and don’t strop too quickly. Beginners, hanging strops and the desire to strop a blade like a steam piston engine is a recipe for disaster. And if for some reason you do nick or slice your board stop your loss will not be significant. Good stropping is not dependent on speed, but rather precision. Once you are comfortable stropping you can upgrade to a hanging strop. Some might ask if you use a board strop then what about the linen strop that accompanies most hanging strop. A linen strop is not really necessary. You can also use newspaper as a strop – simple and inexpensive.
Third, I do not use pastes. Why? It is a personal preference and moreover, I do not feel they are necessary to maintain a good edge. And they are messy. I don't like mess.
The honing process:
Equipment you will need: I hone my blades with a set of Naniwa stones. 1k, 3k, 8k, and 12k is all you need. Indeed, a perfectly good edge can be had with the 1-3-8 combination. The 12k for me was a late addition to my honing kit – it was a nice addition to my kit, but not really necessary. But I do like it.
I soak my stones while I am getting everything set up. And I keep a small squirt bottle of water to keep the stones wet while I hone. I suggest you pick up a couple of old beater razors to practice with as you learn. A magnifying lens is very helpful when you first start honing.
Before you put blade to stone examine the edge of the blade under magnification. Look for uneven areas, chips, and any other imperfections. Vintage blades are rarely perfect. Don’t buy an antique store razor and try to strop it to sharpness. It won’t work. Reset the bevel and start from scratch each time.
I use one layer of electrical tape on the spine of every razor that I hone. I feel it preserves the spine and as long as you use it consistently it will not interfere with the geometry of the blade. I have around 200 SRs and I never have to wonder did I tape this blade when I honed it or not. Every blade is taped and it takes the guess work out of the equation.
I use my 1k stone to set the bevel. This, in my opinion, is the most important step in the honing process. If the bevel is not set correctly the rest of the honing process will be off kilter. Once the bevel is set properly then the remainder of the honing process is merely polishing the edge that you have established. Take the time to ensure you don’t rush this step. How do you know when the bevel is set correctly? I use three methods. First, I examine the edge under magnification and ensure there is an even edge on both sides along the entire length of the blade. I can also tell by the way the blade displaces water when I have it on the stone. And finally, I touch the edge of the blade on the flat part of my thumbnail and just gently test every point along the blade to ensure there is a slight grab. It is hard to describe, it does take some practice. Sometimes if your blade has micro chips or imperfections on the edge it may take a while to get your edge clean and even, but it is worth the time invested.
In terms of how to lay the blade on the stone, I suggest you watch some Youtube videos to see the general process. Everyone does this part slightly different. I tend to use full laps, up one side, down the other. Others use multiple strokes on one side then switch to the other. Be patient, check your work often under magnification and take your time. Use light pressure. You are not grinding an axe, light pressure is all that is necessary. If you find you are wearing through the tape on the spine then you know you are using too much pressure.
Once the bevel is set then move on to the 3k stone and then the 8k stone. If you have a 12k finishing stone then that’s great, but as I said earlier you can achieve a perfectly good edge with a 1-3-8k combination. With the 3-8-12k stones you are not removing much metal, rather you are polishing the edge you set with the 1k stone. At each stone you are seeking to ensure there are no striations or imperfections along the edge and that the surface of the edge is polished to a mirror finish. This is achieved by examining the edge under magnification. How many laps on each stone? Again, that is hard to determine because every blade is different. Use the visual test to ensure the edge is polished to a mirror finish.
Once you have an even, polished edge then you are ready to strop the blade. It doesn’t matter if you have a board strop, paddle strop or hanging strop, the process is the same. Fifty laps should be sufficient to finish polishing the edge. Go slow, take your time and be mindful to keep your blade evenly on the strop. If you can pop the hairs along your forearm at the heel, mid-blade and toe of the blade then that’s a good sign. Then you are ready for the ultimate test of your efforts – the shave test! A well honed edge will provide a smooth shave, no tugging, no missed patches, just smooth sailing. And there is no finer feeling than shaving with a blade you honed yourself.
A well honed razor, with careful stropping will not need to touch the stones for a long time. This depend on how often you shave with the razor and how thick your beard is, and how carefully you strop. There is no need for paste on your strop to freshen the edge. If you so desire, and after prolonged use, you can refresh your edge on the 12k stone, but I think you will be surprised how long a well honed and stropped edge can last.
As with most skills, practice will improve your process. Start on a couple of beaters before you hone that NOS vintage razor that you paid for with a second mortgage on the house. And most important – have fun. That’s what its all about isn’t it? Enjoy.
A couple of items to set the stage. First, if you are new to straight razors I suggest you begin by purchasing a straight razor that has been honed by someone who knows what they are doing. This will serve as your baseline for how a sharp razor should feel and look. Study the edge under magnification to see what a good edge should look like. And learn what a good edge feels like when you shave.
In my case I felt it was important for me to learn how to shave with a straight razor before I started honing. There is nothing more frustrating than purchasing a “shave ready” razor that tugs and pulls and isn’t really sharp. Many online stores sell straight razors, but not all come shave ready. If it is not clearly stated then contact the seller and find out if the razor has been properly honed. “Shave ready” and “factory edge” are terms that mean different things to different people. A shave test will tell you pretty quick whether you have a properly honed blade. I purchased a new Dovo Classic 6/8 SR from Classic Edge. It came shave ready.
Second, to get started with SR shaving all you really need is a properly honed razor and a board or paddle strop. Why a board or paddle strop? As a beginner you may not want to make a big investment – you may just be dipping your toe in the SR waters. A board strop is inexpensive and very easy to use. I was that beginner and I wasn't sure SR shaving was for me. So I purchased a board strop. The flat surface provides good guidance to ensure you lay the blade flat and don’t strop too quickly. Beginners, hanging strops and the desire to strop a blade like a steam piston engine is a recipe for disaster. And if for some reason you do nick or slice your board stop your loss will not be significant. Good stropping is not dependent on speed, but rather precision. Once you are comfortable stropping you can upgrade to a hanging strop. Some might ask if you use a board strop then what about the linen strop that accompanies most hanging strop. A linen strop is not really necessary. You can also use newspaper as a strop – simple and inexpensive.
Third, I do not use pastes. Why? It is a personal preference and moreover, I do not feel they are necessary to maintain a good edge. And they are messy. I don't like mess.
The honing process:
Equipment you will need: I hone my blades with a set of Naniwa stones. 1k, 3k, 8k, and 12k is all you need. Indeed, a perfectly good edge can be had with the 1-3-8 combination. The 12k for me was a late addition to my honing kit – it was a nice addition to my kit, but not really necessary. But I do like it.
I soak my stones while I am getting everything set up. And I keep a small squirt bottle of water to keep the stones wet while I hone. I suggest you pick up a couple of old beater razors to practice with as you learn. A magnifying lens is very helpful when you first start honing.
Before you put blade to stone examine the edge of the blade under magnification. Look for uneven areas, chips, and any other imperfections. Vintage blades are rarely perfect. Don’t buy an antique store razor and try to strop it to sharpness. It won’t work. Reset the bevel and start from scratch each time.
I use one layer of electrical tape on the spine of every razor that I hone. I feel it preserves the spine and as long as you use it consistently it will not interfere with the geometry of the blade. I have around 200 SRs and I never have to wonder did I tape this blade when I honed it or not. Every blade is taped and it takes the guess work out of the equation.
I use my 1k stone to set the bevel. This, in my opinion, is the most important step in the honing process. If the bevel is not set correctly the rest of the honing process will be off kilter. Once the bevel is set properly then the remainder of the honing process is merely polishing the edge that you have established. Take the time to ensure you don’t rush this step. How do you know when the bevel is set correctly? I use three methods. First, I examine the edge under magnification and ensure there is an even edge on both sides along the entire length of the blade. I can also tell by the way the blade displaces water when I have it on the stone. And finally, I touch the edge of the blade on the flat part of my thumbnail and just gently test every point along the blade to ensure there is a slight grab. It is hard to describe, it does take some practice. Sometimes if your blade has micro chips or imperfections on the edge it may take a while to get your edge clean and even, but it is worth the time invested.
In terms of how to lay the blade on the stone, I suggest you watch some Youtube videos to see the general process. Everyone does this part slightly different. I tend to use full laps, up one side, down the other. Others use multiple strokes on one side then switch to the other. Be patient, check your work often under magnification and take your time. Use light pressure. You are not grinding an axe, light pressure is all that is necessary. If you find you are wearing through the tape on the spine then you know you are using too much pressure.
Once the bevel is set then move on to the 3k stone and then the 8k stone. If you have a 12k finishing stone then that’s great, but as I said earlier you can achieve a perfectly good edge with a 1-3-8k combination. With the 3-8-12k stones you are not removing much metal, rather you are polishing the edge you set with the 1k stone. At each stone you are seeking to ensure there are no striations or imperfections along the edge and that the surface of the edge is polished to a mirror finish. This is achieved by examining the edge under magnification. How many laps on each stone? Again, that is hard to determine because every blade is different. Use the visual test to ensure the edge is polished to a mirror finish.
Once you have an even, polished edge then you are ready to strop the blade. It doesn’t matter if you have a board strop, paddle strop or hanging strop, the process is the same. Fifty laps should be sufficient to finish polishing the edge. Go slow, take your time and be mindful to keep your blade evenly on the strop. If you can pop the hairs along your forearm at the heel, mid-blade and toe of the blade then that’s a good sign. Then you are ready for the ultimate test of your efforts – the shave test! A well honed edge will provide a smooth shave, no tugging, no missed patches, just smooth sailing. And there is no finer feeling than shaving with a blade you honed yourself.
A well honed razor, with careful stropping will not need to touch the stones for a long time. This depend on how often you shave with the razor and how thick your beard is, and how carefully you strop. There is no need for paste on your strop to freshen the edge. If you so desire, and after prolonged use, you can refresh your edge on the 12k stone, but I think you will be surprised how long a well honed and stropped edge can last.
As with most skills, practice will improve your process. Start on a couple of beaters before you hone that NOS vintage razor that you paid for with a second mortgage on the house. And most important – have fun. That’s what its all about isn’t it? Enjoy.
