New to Vintage Razors - how to figure out fair price?

[Badger Bill]

Hello All,

While I've been DE shaving for several years now, I've just decided to start venturing into the world of vintage razors. The only problem is, when looking at razors for sale, I have absolutely no idea what's a fair price to pay. For example, a simple search on Ebay about Gillette Red Tips gives a huge range in prices... anywhere from under $10 to nearly $100 or more. I'm sure a lot of this has to do with condition, but I also have no appreciation for how much of it has to do with date codes / rarity... (I don't collect these... I just want to use them, so I honestly couldn't care less about rare dates or varieties... I just want flawless performance).

Don't even get me started on the variety of prices for Fatboys.

I guess what I'm wondering is whether or not there is a resource/guide somewhere that gives an idea of what a reasonable price is for a given razor in perfect working order (I don't care about cosmetic flaws as long as they are relatively minor and don't affect performance).
If not, is there some other way to figure this out?
I've looked in the BST archives and for some razors it seems like they just aren't sold often enough to get a good read on what they go for. And again, I don't know how much rare date codes play into the price (if at all). I want to avoid these :-D
For modern razors, I just look at store prices!
Perhaps when I decide what I want, I might just need to post a WTB in the BST and hope that people play nice???

Thanks so much.

- Badger Bill

 

[Shellbriar]

I'm most interested in this too! I've ever seen a razor price guide either formal or informal. And prices do seem to be all over the map to say the least.

 

[ShaveYourSoul]

A lot of people would say you pay what it is worth to you. Some people really want a fatboy and will pay top dollar for it, others will bide their time and try to get a good deal on one just to try it out. I think a WTB post would be your best bet. You could always negotiate price plus you'd more than likely get a nice, working specimen.

 

[Panama]

The best place to buy seems to be here or another shaving forum. Ebay is much riskier as to condition and fair price. If someone prices too high on the forums it is often pointed out and the price powered. You will likely get a nice razor at a fair price. A 40's SS is a good place to start.

 

[jamesspo]

I would recommend you search for whatever razor model you're interested in on eBay, but select the "completed listings" box when you do so. That will show you the completed sales price of recent transactions. That's probably the best way to get an idea of what the market is on average. As said, only you can decide what an item is worth to you. There really is no "correct" price for anything. The market decides that, and you *are* the market (or a part of it anyway).

With regard to getting familiar with the different models, take a look at the B&B Gillette razor dating page.

http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/US_Gillette_Dating_Information

From there, you'll see links to various models, and a bit more about them. Feel free to ask questions here in the DE forum about any specific models.

 

[mistercitizen]

I suppose the short answer is that it takes a lot of experience and combing through ebay listings and watching the B/S/T to see what vintage razors sell for to really have a good feeling for what they go for typically. It never seems like anyone really wants to say, probably because there is no right or wrong answer, but you open yourself up to criticism if you speak your opinion. Once somebody comes out with a list of values or prices, the market will always adjust itself and eventually values will change and will need to be updated.

My advice would be to start out looking at what you want. Say, a Gillette Red Tip Super Speed for example. You need to consider what the worst condition would be and what the best condition would be. Think about some of the common problems with a particular razor set that occur with age (because they are all old.... that's why we refer to them as "vintage"). For red tips, the common sign of wear is loss of paint on the tip.... some plate loss maybe. It's not an adjustable and they were built like tanks so mechanically most Gillette TTO's typically work fine.... but you want to check the seller's description and make sure that they say "mechanically, it works". Other razors have different common problems (Old types with cracked handles for example). Think about what came with it or how it was presented "new". A red tip came in a plastic case with a clear lid, instructions, and a dispenser of Gillette Blue Blades (typically the 6 blade dispenser). Mr-razor's website is great for researching "collector grade" conditions. The red tip did not come in a cardboard box, so you don't need to think about that.

You said above that they range anywhere from less than $10 to $100..... which I would agree with that assessment. So, $100 will most likely get you a mint condition red tip (no plate loss, no heavy scratches or scuffs on the plating, all the red paint on the tip, in the case with almost no scratches or crazing on the lid, a mint condition Blue Blade dispenser, and the instruction sheet). $10 gets you a beat up red tip that mechanically functions but has plate loss, pitting, lots of paint missing from the tip, no case, no blade dispenser, no instructions.

So, for $10 shipped, what are you getting? Shipping is always a built in cost with vintage razors unless you are finding them in the wild. Start thinking in terms of "cost shipped". Shipping a razor within your country will generally range between $2 to $6..... more than that and you're talking insurance, a large cased set, etc...... something a little unique in other words. So $10 is getting you a $5 razor basically..... and I would agree that $5 is about all a beat up old red tip that still works is worth.

So, start thinking about what's better than the worst? A little plate loss, but no pitting.... still missing most of the paint on the tip? Okay, maybe that's worth another few bucks..... so $13. What about a little better than that? Say no plate loss, but still some scratches and scuffs, now missing even less paint on the tip...... so $18. What about no plate loss and fairly shiny with only a few small scuffs and just a tiny bit of paint missing from the tip.... $23. Throw in a case in similar condition at this point and maybe it's $33. Make everything excellent condition and add the dispenser and it's maybe $40 to $50. When you go from excellent to mint condition or NOS condition, that's where things can go a little nutty and you're talking $50 to $100 depending on what's included in the set. Maybe everything is in mint condition, but the instructions are missing.... you get all kinds of variations that you just have to use your judgement on.

Next, I'd think about how Regular Flare Tip Super Speeds and Blue Tip Super Speeds compare to the exercise above. You need to think about how many were made, popularity, etc. Popularity and the fact that it was only made for a few years is what gives a Fat Boy it's value. Red tips and Blue tips are sort of the same way.... they were only made for a few years versus 10 to 15 years like the Regular Flare Tips. In general, I'd say Red Tips are more popular than Blue Tips.... and so they command a little bit more. Regular Flare Tips are not as scarce as either Blue Tips or Red Tips, so they command less money than either of those. Adjust your prices accordingly.

Remember, there's always the "crud uncertainty factor" with vintage razors. That is, there is always the possibility that there is a excellent to mint condition razor under all that tarnish and crud..... but you won't know that until you can clean it. So, buying vintage razors can definitely be a gamble. But, you never know, you may find that diamond in the rough too. It's part of the fun of it IMO.

Hope this helps a bit.

Ben

 

[Galhatz]

You would get a good honest deal on b/s/t and if there is a specific model you have in mind, just post a WTB thread.

 

[Shutterbug57]

Some folks pay top dollar and win most of their auctions, some folks lose a lot of auctions and then get a deal. I recently picked up a nearly flawless Red Tip Superspeed for $22.55. I have seen similar razors go for well upwards of $30. My lost to win ratio is probably 85% losing to 15% winning.

Auctions that I will gear in on will have adequate photography that is relatively low quality. That is, I can figure out what I'm looking at and see the flaws but the photography is fairly poor and the lighting is generally bad. These types of photographs tend to make things look worse than they actually are. This results in many bidders looking elsewhere and not paying attention to these auctions, resulting in lower prices.

If you are just looking for a good user grade razor do not get emotionally attached to any auctions and bid what you willing to pay. If you can do your bidding at the end, you may get a lower price. But if that's not convenient, just put your best price in and let the auction play out. Once you set your price, don't change it. If you don't win that auction, unless the item is incredibly unusual, there will be another one coming along fairly shortly.

As for doing your research, as others have mentioned, look at completed auctions on eBay. If you have not done this before, the prices and red did not sell while the prices in green did. Also if an item is in green but it was a make an offer item you really won't know the actual price at which it sold.

In a nutshell, unless you need it now, be patient, be prepared to lose and ultimately you'll win the price you like.

 

[cottontop]

I just ordered a razor price guide book from Amazon. I haven't received it yet and I don't know how accurate it will be, but it seems like a good place to start.
ct

 

[TacticalPanda]

The completed listings on eBay are your best option. However, there are razors that I won't buy even if they are worth what the seller is asking. I saw an original #19 on another shave site that was sold for $275 in the original box and packaging and I would never pay that much for what is basically a gold #15.

 

[MacDaddy]

I just ordered a razor price guide book from Amazon. I haven't received it yet and I don't know how accurate it will be, but it seems like a good place to start.
ct

In my experience razor pricing guides are absolutely worthless for pricing, but are great for pictures of razors that you might have a hard time finding or as an ID resource.

 

[Badger Bill]

Thank you guys for your responses. I REALLY appreciate all of the detail and information!

- Badger Bill

 

[chongo gordo]

The "completed" listings function will show any listing that has expired. A listing that didn't sell at $300 doesn't really say much about an item's real market value. "Sold" listings will give you a better idea of a selling price as it reflects the amount someone actually threw down.