Need some help

[Macduff]

So i’m about 5 shaves into my straight razor experiment and i’m considering throwing in the towel. To give some background, i’ve been shaving with a cart most of my life and DE shaving for about a year and a half. I had zero problems picking up DE shaving and quite honestly have never posted on the forum asking for advise on actual shaving technique. I expected a much steeper learning curve with a straight but really didn’t anticipate not being able to actually shave with the thing. The razor is an admittedly cheap chinese “Titan” (aka no name) razor, but i did send it out to be honed by a member here and he confirmed he was able to get a good shave out if it. For me...not so much. I simply cannot remove my stubble with it. I’ve tried every angle i can think of and it just isn’t taking the stubble down. I’m stropping 50 laps between shaves and have been making sure the lather is up to par, but nothing seems to work. After a lot of work and relathering, a WTG pass leaves what feels like a full days worth of stubble on my face. I haven’t even tried ATG because the stubble is simply too long for me to even consider it. It’s making me inclined to just give it up but i figued i’d come her first for advise. I am skin stretching but i’m only 34 so my skin is still tight enough that i don’t feel like it’s adding much benefit. I should note that i’ve always struggled to get a BBS shave with both a cart and DE, so i think my beard is pretty wiry. But with that said i really don’t think it should be so much of an impediment that i can’t at least get a decent shave with a straight. Any/all advise is greatly appreciated.

 

[Dzaw]

Wow - I am sorry to hear you are off to such a rough start.

The first thing I would advise is to see if you can get your hands on a confirmed shave ready vintage razor.

There are a LOT of variables that could be responsible for the problems you are having. It could be that the cheap steel doesn’t hold an edge. It could be that you ruined the edge in your first attempt to strop. It could be angle, pressure, approach vector, etc. what you need to do is eliminate some of those variables, and check the results.

If you cannot afford to purchase a razor from a reputable and trusted vendor (Larry at Whipped Dog seems to have a good rep around here) then see if there is an experienced user who can lend you a razor for a while. Check the buy sell trade sub forum here for a while, straights go up for sale fairly regularly, some for really good prices. Usually, when a member here is selling more than1 or 2 straights, they shave with straights themselves, and will be able to get the edge back into condition before sending it your way.

If none of the above seem actionable, you could consider trying a shavette. The upside to a shavette is you always know the blade is pristine, because you swap it out for a new blade every couple of shaves.

Once you get your hands on a confirmed shave ready blade DO NOT STROP it until you’ve shaved at least once with it - it is not difficult to accidentally ruin the edge with stropping.

 

[Dzaw]

Also - about what region are you located? If there is a local member or honemeister readily at hand, you could have much fewer complications.

 

[global_dev]

The titans (ZY?) are supposed to be a bit better QC in that range. I think it's the stropping and general new user usage. get another honed vintage and get the titan out for a honing.

 

[Basil]

If you can find a member in your area you can always try and meet up. They can maybe help with technique and see if they blade is indeed shave ready.

Also agree with trying a vintage shave ready blade. Sometimes those Chinese ones don’t have steel that’s beneficial to shaving.

 

[Macduff]

Thanks for the advise guys. I did give it to a member here who honed it and confirmed it shaved well for him. I didn’t strop it when i got it back but still had the issue of it not removing stubble. I don’t want to drop more $ on another straight and run into the same issue though. I like the shavette idea though because then it’ll take out the issue of the blade dulling due to poor stropping technique. My question though, will a shavette teach me the necessary technique to use a straight? I’ve heard people say that it’s very different. Also can anyone recommend some good shavettes i could find (possibly used) that aren’t expensive but work well?

 

[Twelvefret]

I'll recommend a Feather folding SS shavette with Pro Guard blades. This way if you experience tugging and resistance it is not the blade. Although I enjoy the straight razor, the Feather is a joy to go back and use again and again.

Mix up a hydrated lather, the kind of lather you have to mop the floor after using....LOL

Lay the razor flat and raise slightly. You cannot cut meat or flesh with a shallow angle.

Re-lather during the shave and never shave an area without lather.

Initially just shave the sides of your face. Once you are okay with the sides, move to other areas. Use a safety razor of choice for the rest of your face.

\

 

[global_dev]

I simply cannot remove my stubble with it. I’ve tried every angle i can think of and it just isn’t taking the stubble down. I’m stropping 50 laps between shaves and have been making sure the lather is up to par, but nothing seems to work.

After a lot of work and relathering, a WTG pass leaves what feels like a full days worth of stubble on my face. I haven’t even tried ATG because the stubble is simply too long for me to even consider it.

I am skin stretching but i’m only 34 so my skin is still tight enough that i don’t feel like it’s adding much benefit. I should note that i’ve always struggled to get a BBS shave

I may have read by this too quickly.. are you saying the razor isn't cutting hair at all, or that a WTG pass it leaves a full days worth of stubble. I'm guessing the later. Without a very very sharp razor, a WTG is probably going to leave some growth. Try a XTG pass or sliding scythe.. ATG is going to be 99% necessary to get rid of ALL of the stubble. Some hairs, especially swirl areas, will need that attention.

You've struggled to get a BBS even with a DE or cart? do you have very dark hair? was it not BBS by look or by touch? If you can't get one with a cart, I'm really surprised.

skin stretching isn't just for "older" skin, I started straight shaving earlier than your age in 2010, and it was a necessity. It can help with raising/changing the profile of the follicle momentarily. If you see a pic of one of my shaves, you can see it's not that saggy..

This was a first WTG pass and was sufficient for me to not think a ATg was needed..

Spoiler: pics o' my face and razor post WTG

 

[Macduff]

I may have read by this too quickly.. are you saying the razor isn't cutting hair at all, or that a WTG pass it leaves a full days worth of stubble. I'm guessing the later. Without a very very sharp razor, a WTG is probably going to leave some growth. Try a XTG pass or sliding scythe.. ATG is going to be 99% necessary to get rid of ALL of the stubble. Some hairs, especially swirl areas, will need that attention.

You've struggled to get a BBS even with a DE or cart? do you have very dark hair? was it not BBS by look or by touch? If you can't get one with a cart, I'm really surprised.

skin stretching isn't just for "older" skin, I started straight shaving earlier than your age in 2010, and it was a necessity. It can help with raising/changing the profile of the follicle momentarily. If you see a pic of one of my shaves, you can see it's not that saggy..

This was a first WTG pass and was sufficient for me to not think a ATg was needed..

Spoiler: pics o' my face and razor post WTG

Global that first pass pic is what i was expecting out of a straight but i’m nowhere near that. I shave every 2-3 days and after a wtg pass it looks like i still have a 5 o’clock shadow. Also i do have very dark hair and even on the rare instances i get a BBS shave, you can still seee the stubble under my skin. I was able to get about 95% BBS with a cart but some areas on my neck would have stray hairs i just couldn’t get because of the lack of blade exposure on carts. It’s one of the reasons i switched to DE. What’s surprised me about straights is that i’m not getting a cleaner pass than with a DE since i can fully control the cutting angle. Going in, i thought it would be tough to get through a shave without nicks or irritation but never expected i’d have problems just removing the hair. I’ve actually only nicked myself once in the 5 shaves and my most recent shave was irritation free; but with an awful result. I know the amount of stubble left after one pass isn’t normal. I’m assuming a straight should get you close to where a DE does after one pass and it’s not even in the same ballpark. I think i may have to just bite the bulllet and get a shavette to figure out if it’s all technique or technique and razor. I know 100% my technique is to blame but with that said, the result is so poor that i’m starting to think the razor might be at play too.

 

[global_dev]

Post a pic of the razor just to give us an idea of what it is, condition, etc.

Shavettes come in at least 2 major variations the DE or the long blade. i’ve tried the long blade versions from feather. great!

 

[Macduff]

This is the exact razor. My father bought it and never used it so it’s brand new.

Titan Shaving Razor Sharp Already Straight Razor New 2018 | eBay

 

[global_dev]

Also i do have very dark hair and even on the rare instances i get a BBS shave, you can still seee the stubble under my skin.

visible Stubble under the skin is probably expected with dark hair. I dont see how you are going to it without risk to skin and ingrowns and pseudofolliculitis if you get too deep, but im not a derm or hair professional. I dont go for BBS, causes me too many issues that the ROI is not there. Id rather have healthy skin with relative ease especially since it grows back so quickly.

I was able to get about 95% BBS with a cart but some areas on my neck would have stray hairs i just couldn’t get because of the lack of blade exposure on carts. It’s one of the reasons i switched to DE. What’s surprised me about straights is that i’m not getting a cleaner pass than with a DE since i can fully control the cutting angle

What DE? DEs with plenty exposure/gap balance will allow you to control angle. The SEs are incredible if you get a chance to try them.

 

[global_dev]

This is the exact razor. My father bought it and never used it so it’s brand new.

Titan Shaving Razor Sharp Already Straight Razor New 2018 | eBay

That one should be fine and if you look at seraphims gold dollar mods under the vorpal moniker, they can be excellent. My similar Chinese based razors can work very well, and should be ok for at least a couple of shaves before a newbie notices marked degradation.

it might only need a couple swipes on a 8-12k hone, but a cheaper solution is films or maybe strop crayons or diamond pastes.

 

[Macduff]

visible Stubble under the skin is probably expected with dark hair. I dont see how you are going to it without risk to skin and ingrowns and pseudofolliculitis if you get too deep, but im not a derm or hair professional. I dont go for BBS, causes me too many issues that the ROI is not there. Id rather have healthy skin with relative ease especially since it grows back so quickly.




What DE? DEs with plenty exposure/gap balance will allow you to control angle. The SEs are incredible if you get a chance to try them.

I can get a BBS with the right blade on the right day with DE. I will still see the stubble under my skin but it’ll be BBS in that i can’t feel any hairs running my hand in any direction. DE works great for me with the right blade. Honestly i’m just baffled by my inability to get the straight to work well at the moment.

 

[Macduff]

That one should be fine and if you look at seraphims gold dollar mods under the vorpal moniker, they can be excellent. My similar Chinese based razors can work very well, and should be ok for at least a couple of shaves before a newbie notices marked degradation.

it might only need a couple swipes on a 8-12k hone, but a cheaper solution is films or maybe strop crayons or diamond pastes.

That what i figured too. I’m not one to blame tools for poor performance but the results are so bad i’m really not sure at this point. I’m going to keep trying but i may pick up a feather ss just to see if i can at least get a decent shave. If i can’t i’ll know it’s all technique that’s causing the issues. I really want the straight to work though so i’m not giving up on it just yet.

 

[global_dev]

5 shaves isn't all that many to not get the greatest shave. I had a lot of shaves early on where under the USB microscope on my face , I could see hairs that were cut, but only partially along the diameter (like string cheese pulls or breaking off celery stalks from the bunch). IMO it was from an edge that may have been sharp earlier, but wasn't nearly sharp enough.

My thought is the edge is probably meh by now and needs some care.

I'm in DC/VA area, if you'd like me to take a look at it, rehone it at no cost to you other than shipping both ways, just PM me. I'd be happy to help.

 

[global_dev]

I’m not one to blame tools for poor performance but the results are so bad i’m really not sure at this point.

You can't blame a straight razor as a whole usually (unless it's an Razor Shaped Object, it's lost it's temper, or terrible dimensions) but there can be issues that need to be sorted and unless you have 2 or 3 razors that you know are 100%, it's very very difficult to assign blame as you learn.

 

[MilkCrate]

From my experience, the first 30 SR shaves were not good. I started with a Personna hair shaper and they are around $10. I think you can buy it at Sally’s. You can also buy the blades there.

A shavette/hair shaper is less forgiving of bad technique. But once you get the technique down, it’s easy to switch to straights. If you get a hair shaper, take off the guard and use a very light touch.

A wet, slick lather is key. It’s a different lather than DE shaving.

 

[Macduff]

From my experience, the first 30 SR shaves were not good. I started with a Personna hair shaper and they are around $10. I think you can buy it at Sally’s. You can also buy the blades there.

A shavette/hair shaper is less forgiving of bad technique. But once you get the technique down, it’s easy to switch to straights. If you get a hair shaper, take off the guard and use a very light touch.

A wet, slick lather is key. It’s a different lather than DE shaving.

I think i’m going to try that. Because right now i don’t feel like i’m accomplishing anything using the straight. It’s as if the blade is just passing over the hair and cutting only 1/4 of what’s there. I’d rather be dealing with weepers and irritation than what i’m contending with now. Because at least then i’ll understand if i’m using too much pressure or the wrong angle. Right now i have no idea if it’s me, the razor or a combination.

 

[Suhrim21]

This is the exact razor. My father bought it and never used it so it’s brand new.

Titan Shaving Razor Sharp Already Straight Razor New 2018 | eBay

I'm still new but that razor is exactly like my AP Donovan razor. I will say that razor does not work as good as my ERN. I have to do more passes with the donovan razor vs the ERN. I have learned though on the donovan I have to use a more shallow angle than the ERN and I can get a decent shave. My neck though there are some spots I can never get bbs with either razor. Here are pics of my donovan.